I just went thru this in my 2011 OBS. I originally used Dynamat in the doors and picked up RAAMAT for the hatch as it was cheaper. Personally I felt that the Dynamat and RAAMAT worked the same. Only differences I noticed was that the RAAMAT aluminum top layer was sharper when cut, so I had a ton of paper cut type cuts on my finger tips, but it didn't happen with the Dynamat. Haha
Performance wise, they acted the same, but for some reason I prefer the Dynamat.
Regardless, the RAAMAT is cheaper and does the same thing, just be careful and wear gloves.
As others have mentioned, for $100, pick up some RAAMAT and Ensolite and cover the doors. I doubled up on the deadener behind the speakers and placed an 8 x 8 square of ensolite behind each speaker in the door to minimize reflections from the aluminum top layer. If you have anything left over, hold onto it. Enjoy the work performed to the doors and decide if you want to move onto other areas of the car. If you decide to continue, move onto the hatch / trunk area next. If it's a hatch, concentrate on the wheel wells and the areas behind them. I originally did the doors and then moved onto the hatch area.
If you plan on placing a sub into the hatch / trunk then I highly recommend dampening the area and cover it with ensolite. Where the sub enclosure will be placed, cover the rear of the plastic panels with ensolite to minimize buzzing / rattling panels. I picked up some black hockey tape and taped the edged where plastic panels over lapped each other.
I won't say that my car is BMW / Mercedes quiet, but it did make a difference as far as resonances, creaks and buzzing noises. I installed a Pioneer AVH-P8400BU HU, JL components in the front and JL coax in the rear doors. Now that the amp, AI enclosure, sub are installed and everything is connected, I'm happy to report that I don't have any of those annoying rattling / buzzing sounds in the doors nor hatch area. The doors and hatch close with a thud rather than having that thin can sound. I still have some slight creaks in the dash, so that's what I'm tackling next. Hopefully I can do it by pushing some hockey tape into the seams where plastic panels meet as I really don't want to remove the dash.
Hope that helps...