reserved for engine build
Fun notes so far:
-The t-70 torque from the transmission drain plug will remove the drain plug to install the block heater! Note do this while the engine is on it's side, needs lots of torque!
- After the block heater is installed, install the water return pipe, THEN the water cross over pipe. (it won't fit underneath it you'll have to remove it)
- CCR forgot to include or didn't mention they don't include the block adapter for the oil pressure switch. Had to order one from wrextra, there goes another 20$
- Turns out this is a moot point! I'm installing a PLX oil pressure sensor. The sensor they use (VDO) has a secondary output for the factory idiot light!
- Unfortunately, the block adapter from WRextra isn't tapped deep enough to ensure a good connection with the ground ring, Thankfully they guys in the machine shop let me borrow a 1/8NPT tap.
Finally got the last of the brackets powder coated.
Also changed my mind and had the water crossover pipe powder coated in the purple as well, unfortunately my guy ran out of purple, he didn't have enough to do the alternator bracket which is sad because I want to do the alternator in green between then.
You may catch in the pic above I had to reverse direction and install the oil pressure sensor in the rear galley. Using the blue gates racing belts which are 3mm shorter than what the factory calls for, it won't clear the alternator. Right also to install those belts you need to remove the nut holding on the alternator pulley and slide it on!
*poof* 6 10 hour days later here she is installed
So here's the modification I made to the EGR pipe to support the phenholic spacers, grimmspeed is off their rocker, you have to space it to fit the 8mm ones. My solution drill a 5/8 piece of steel, and M12 tap it. M12 die will work on the pipe without cutting too deep. I did a straight tap/die and used a set of M12 bolts to lock/seal it in place.
More pretty pictures:
A little blurry, but I highly recommend installing the block heater before anything else.
Le turd before removal
What do you use your subaru for? How about building a new subaru:
Open bay, post cleaning new throw out bearing installed, notice how I supported the tranny.
I felt more secure with it on a piece of wood less likely to rock off the jack and onto my feet or groin sitting there cleaning all the grime out
As the rad supports were rusting to **** I had them coated and put some anti corrosion stuff on the corners of the chassis where it's starting to rust
I have a few more pics to unload from the camera but honestly not too many. I kept running into problem after problem. Overall it took about 6 10-12 hour days to install everything AFTER i had the block rotated and the manifold built up. I didn't realize there were 6 bolts and 2 studs in the engine, I bent the studs trying to remove the engine with them still attached. Which was fine because race metalsmiths was able to coat the radiator support brackets and alternator bracket in the day it took subaru to get me new studs. CCR installed the mating pin on the wrong side of the engine!!!! I had it together and was bolting it tight when i noticed that, I wanted to scream. Another 3 hours wasted pulling the engine again and levering that out with a very large pair of vise grips and a screwdriver.
The exhaust was pain (sorry no pics ) you have to extend the rear O2 sensor cable, again time, I used about 22 inches of wire and ran it down along the transmission side with the VSS and P/N switch using those clips to hold the wire. I soldered it, and heat shrinked each connection then sealed everything in electrical tape and finally some wire-loom to pretty it up. Talking to the guys as casper electronics, they don't make an extension cable for our model, however he was kind enough to mention that you have to extend it on the copper wiring side, the O2 sensor itself uses stainless wire and you'll really mess up the sensor signal running from the sensor. You need a dremel and grinding wheel to polish out the old gasket from the cat back pipe if you don't install a new one. Buy new bolts, springs and nuts from subaru, they will be toast coming apart. I installed it by sliding the entire exhaust out the back, bolting it together then sliding it back in on a creeper so the ceramic coating didn't get hurt.
If your rack makes a clunking noise, as mine was and the ends were shot it's worth replacing, unless you can afford the extra 4-5 days down time for someone to rebuild the inner ends. I will tell you even with the engine out and exhaust out of the way it took 4 hours! Bolting that in is not easy especially with the whiteline bushings which fit a lot tighter.
With everything out I took the opportunity to bring the P/S, Coolant overflow, radiator, and WS washer reservoirs over to the self wash, with some orange cleaner and time they look brand new. A note there's a valve of some sort in the PS container, after i cleaned it getting all the water out was impossible, I just ran some atf fluid through it into my oil catch pan until I was happy none remained.