Originally Posted by sfeather11
I saw a video or picture somewhere a while ago. Nothing too precise or tricky, the 2x4 is cut to length so that it spans across the bed and rests inside the cap on top of the bottom "lip" (bottom edges of the cap below the windows). One end of the ratchet strap is hooked to the cargo tie down near the bottom of the bed sidewall (below the 2x4), the strap is then routed up over the 2x4 once, and the other end is hooked to the cargo tie down on the other side. Once you begin ratcheting, you will be pulling the 2x4 downward and the cap along with it. One caution though, I've heard that you reeeeeally have to crank it down to get the holes to line up. I've even heard of some guys breaking the 2x4!
Speaking to Canuck's points, This cap is by no means water tight. I do get water trickling in where the cap meets the cab, but it is not much in my opinion and the bed is obviously drier than no cap at all! I plan on taking mine of here in the next week or so, and definitely expect to see some paint damage on the roof and sides from the cap. It's a trade-off for having the cap in the 1st place I suppose. For me, it is still a great option to have. It really is a well made cap and the utility you gain is worth the few quirks...
Oh, 1 other thing. When I broght mine home and removed it to clean it, I went to Lowe's (HD would have it too)and bought some "camper install tape" and applied it to the underside of the cap where it sits on the bed rails and cab. My thinking is it would help keep the edge of the fiberglass off the paint. The tape is essentially 1" wide foam (medium density) and sticky on 1 side. I think it was 1/8" thick, but this may actually be too thick as it makes the holes that much harder to line up...
Yeah, the installers did break the 1st 2x4.then they went to an "X" type brace the second time. A piece of 1x4 channel iron would be best, if you had some scrap lying around. Those ratchets really need to suck down hard.......best of luck!