Originally Posted by P3Auto
Some software versions had user level settings, the more advanced the setting the more tables appear. Just make sure you are logging total timing. I'm sure if everything is bolted on right and there are no other issues you should be able to go with at least 10 degrees at peak torque ramping to 15+ degrees by redline just to start. Obviously you need to log knock and see for yourself. If you really only are running 7 degrees now then your in for a world of difference when you start advancing it a bit. I have seen 10-15whp difference with just a degree of timing when your way out of spec.
Watch for gotchas that cause knock like sudden boost spikes and AFR issues. Remember smooth is the key...If you tuning in colder weather remember that being on the edge of knock in the winter will most likely knock in the summer with the hotter intake temps. So once you find some knock (if your pushing it hard) then back off 2 degrees or more. Also try to log the knock event more than once if its just a small one to make sure its able to be reproduced. Sometimes these cars will make a little noise once and it won't happen again. The idea of the knock correction system is to handle the times when there is knock and make corrections for that event. What you don't want to do is have a tune that constantly knocks in the same place every time.
Also don't assume that adding fuel (richer) is always the answer to fixing a knock event. Depending on your fuel ratings where you are at you may want to start with targets around 10.2:1 Keep it over 10.2 and below 10.9 for now until you base line some timing. Then you can try to lean it out for some more power. Unless you are running meth I would target 10.9 in general once you have timing dialed in. If you have some good 93-94 octane then 11.2-11.5 could yield some nice gains in HP.
Thanks a lot. Is there a particular set of correction factors you like? How much timing gets pulled, etc.? After seeing some of the stuff in this tune, it wouldn't surprise me if half the tune was off or just looked over.
On a couple early runs (when i first got the car) I saw nearly 12:1 up top when I hadn't touched a single table in the aem unit. That, along with a few other things, tells me this tune was rushed or some of the compensation tables weren't right or touched at all. When I got the car it was "de-tuned for cold weather". I didn't take enough time to go over everything when I bought the car. I had thought I wouldn't have to worry about a tune from this place. Lol. When I was checking everything out, I had assumed it was super twitchy driving around because of the cams. Turns out it was the tune. It drives amazing now...or at least a lot better than when I got it. And I'm not using a ton of fuel either.
But anyways. Lol. Do you have an email I can send a couple logs to? They'll be in aemlog format though.