Originally Posted by bluesubie
The increase in fuel is no doubt from the OTS AP and the make-up oil likely boosted the TBN and KV. I was actually surprised that the viscosity did as well as it did with the fuel and enthusiastic driving in NC.
Interesting that the iron was high on this uoa (which is typical for M1) but it was lower in the old SM version. I suppose I would have to pay more than $23 for a uoa to find out if it's really a problem. Mobil1 had a chance to address the iron issue on the bitog q&a but they didn't. I'm pleased with the results though.
I know lots of UOAs on BITOG show high Iron numbers with M1, but I've not seen that in my own apps.
I'll start a new thread for these in a second, but here's the numbers from my dad's 2010 Outback 3.6. M1 0w40 and 0w30 have been used exclusively for the last 30k miles. Nice low Iron numbers except for the first M1 UOA, which was just after some accident repairs so I suspect lots of really
short trips into and around the body shop. Oil is labeled on an empty line. 0w30/40 indicates a blend of M1 0w30 and 0w40. The 3.6R has a ~7qt sump IIRC, and my dad hasn't always been able to get enough of the 0w40. Now that he's done a couple of runs with the 0w30, I think we're going to switch to it exclusively. Seems to hold up well, and is a bunch cheaper than the 0w40 when purchased in the 5qt jug at WM. The one quart of make up oil in the 31,687 mi UOA was totally unnecessary and was Pennzoil HM 5w30. The short trip from the hotel to he gas station (~1 block) caused oil to sit in the heads and the dipstick to read unrealistically low. I'm not sure about the make up oil in the next UOA, I'll have to ask my dad.
If I were mixing something with RT6 to thin it out, I would use Pennzoil products, not Mobil, to keep the add pack consistent. Probably Ultra 5w20 or Platinum 0w20.
BTW, what lab are you using?