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Old 01-23-2013, 06:38 PM   #296
Full-Race Geoff
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Member#: 133386
Join Date: Nov 2006
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: AZ/NJ
Vehicle:
13 F150
ecoboost

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Concillian View Post
Finally seeing how this fits up to the 207 I have on my engine stand...


Quote:
Originally Posted by Concillian View Post
Is the wastegate preload set already? The nuts are way at the end of the arm and one is loose. I like that the EFR setup doesn't use a rod end on a post. I hate those e-clips that fly off everywhere when you need to pull the end off and twist it a turn or two. At least it looks easy to make preload adjustments, but this can't be the proper preload out of the box, can it? The nut isn't even all the way threaded onto the end of the rod.
you are correct - the wastegate preload must be set during installation, after the turbo is clocked/plumbed. there is only one clocking position that will mesh with the IWG arm so that is easy to find. you can see it here clearly:



The wastegate preload should be a minimum of 2mm, maximum of 10mm. I have the stiff actuator and run 6mm preload and its worked great for me, 16psi base and up to 30psi max at 100% wgdc. If you have a few minutes to read the EFR training manual there is some good info there on this subject



Quote:
Originally Posted by Concillian View Post
Also, do you know what pigtail I need for the attached BCS? Borg includes a 3 port BCS with all the EFRs, but they don't give a pigtail so you can wire it?
this is a standard fuel injector plug AKA "EV1". this can be purchased at any napa, autozone, etc or we have them in stock also

Quote:
Originally Posted by Concillian View Post
Lastly, is the intention to run parallel BPVs? I see no provision for deleting the stock bypass here. My stock BPV is leaking fiercely, so I ordered some silicone caps to put over the inlet return port and the stock BPV output. Seems like the best solution when my alternative is ghettoing my own block off plate with a hacksaw, dremel, and a hand drill.
if you run your intake tube which likely has a BPV recirc, its very easy to keep the parallel dual BOV's. If you want to block off the stock BPV and plug your intake that is a good idea and simple/easy to implement


Quote:
Originally Posted by Bru1212 View Post
How did you decide on the 6758? I've been searching and found zero dyno numbers. I have a 2.5L
HERE is a post in this thread with 6758 dyno chart on a stock 05 sti motor:



the only other one i know of was perrin's but his tgv's were funky iirc

Quote:
Originally Posted by Concillian View Post
1) compressor map... it's a very wide compressor map at 20-21 psi that goes right through the heart of the efficiency island. It should be a very good match to the 207 or 2.1L stroker at that boost level.
2) this thread has dynos of 7163... a 6758 isn't going to spool later than that so I have a pretty decent idea of what spool will be like.
3) it's also not going to flow as much as the 7163... soo HP will be in between this and a vf. There's not a ton of room between this and a vf, so we have a pretty good idea where things will end up.
4) more or less 20G-ish power. 20G is kinda loaded, considering that "20G" can mean anything from a 7cm original 20G to a 10cm 20g-XT and everything in-between.
5) the packaging should bring flow benefits over the stock setup without making the engine bay too obvious. I like stealthy
6) vband downpipe? Yes please. I hate pulling my Invidia off. With wrap on the bellmouth, one of the bolts comes off 1/12 turn at a time, and I can't put the pipe fully on the studs and still get the nut on. I wish the backside of the DP was also vband. Vband connections are awesome.

...I'll have TD04 and an OG 7cm FP18g (on an EJ205) to compare against, all on E85... so once I'm done, people will have a decent idea of where the 6758 fits in.
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