Thank you OCD for the great write up! Excellent, yes! Thanks as well to all contributors. Made the install very easy.
I wanted to write my experience, as I had been looking through 23 pages in this thread. Plus, I hadn't seen a '13 wrx owner contribute updates.
I did only the Defi Boost Gauge
1) Fuse placement: Original fuse closest to prong (including 15amp for Doorlocks), 3 amp fuse closest to wire.
2) 2013 WRX: Wire/Tap Name/#
- Orange/IG2/#4 (insert tap upside down)
- White/Illum (aka illumination)/#16
3) Ground Wire:
- removed bulging side panel to fuse/wire area, where the driver's door shuts.
- Bolted ground eyelet to the top-right Screw holding the dash mount to a metal stabilizer bracket.
- Fed the eyelet between the bracket and dash mount.
TAPPING VACUUM LINE:
- Make sure to cut it evenly. I used scissors and found it difficult, but lucked out. Although it wasn't perfectly flat, it worked with the angle the T fit into.
- Since T fitment wasn't snug enough, I went "OCD" on the zip ties... 4 on bottom of T, 3 on top. Function over Facial!
- I used OCD's method of bolting on the bracket, including two nuts between the clamp and the sensor, like OCD (eagle eye vision).
PULL FENDER LINER WITH TIRE ON
1) Open driver's door
2) Tug on silver wrx side emblem with both hands (both sides simultaneously) to pop side panel back.
3) This will reveal one philips screw clip (remove)
4) There are three round push clips around the middle of the liner. Use your flat head screw driver and patiently work them out.
5) There are 3 philips clips on the front side of the tire well (remove)
6) I also removed the 2 clips under the front bumper holding on the fender liner and the bolt near the tow pulley.
- Now it dropped toward the front, popped out easy and bent out of the way.
FEEDING SENSOR WIRE
- Passed the wire behind the fuse box and zip tied it to the ground wire located there for stability.
- There were a few slots under the Fender panel that fed into the space under the liner. I passed the wire through, but also cut a piece of tubing to act as padding (see photo).
- Used existing wire harnesses to feed the wire through.
- Connected the wire for the gauge (to the sensor wire) and zip tied it to other wires along the track.
- Used scissors to puncture the rubber grommet, from inside the car, to out.
- Went around to see the scissors poking through from fender area and fed wire with gauge plug through, as I pushed the scissors back in.
CLUSTER BEZEL & MOUNTING
- Pull Bezel off/out from bottom, to top.
- Do not lose the green/yellow clips! Be careful too, they fall in and become lost! (one on top did, but it's fine)
- Cut (2 CM wide .5 CM thick) strip of the seal on the bezel for wires. (not on the outside/visible portion)
- Defi's tape and mount are good, and moldable to the contour.
- Make sure the gauge housing sits at least 90 degrees flat as you tighten.
I'm very pleased with the final product and now drive with a full erection!
Fuses in the Fuse Taps:
Fuse Tap Location (2013 WRX):
OCD "T" Fitment
I'm new to WRX and have accomplished a lot from researching these forums (Unabomber and many other great contributors). I've done many mods already, but mostly quality aesthetic mods. I did go Stage 1 with Cobb A/P and noticed a big difference in drivability & overall power.
I got the itch, am loving the hobby, and man, this car is freakin sweet!