Originally Posted by MattTHEpainter
*1 quart body filler with activator (preferably rage gold or comparable product)
*Tube of glazing putty/"icing"
*Assortment of sand paper starting at 40 grit ranging to 400 (40,80,180,220,320,400)
*High build primer
*DA sander (not necessary but will make job much easier)
I do not know if you have any prior knowledge when it comes to bodywork so I can only give you guidance and getting it "perfect" depends on the time you take and practice.
1. Were the welds ground flush? If so there is most likely some slight distortion in the metal. Try to get the metal as flush as possible prior to filling. Use a body hammer, or stud welder to do so. If the metal has any low spots that cannot be worked out, sand about a 5" diameter circle from the center of the welds to give you ample room to work. Sand with 80 grit on a DA. Any spot that you will be filling you want bare metal for the filler to adhere to. Do not heat the panel too much with the DA.
2. Mix the filler on a piece of sheet metal or cardboard. A good rule of thumb is put the amount of filler down, and then draw a line across the puddle with activator. Depending on conditions this could vary. Use a spreader to put down only as much filler that is needed over the holes. Let harden, and then begin to sand with 80 grit sandpaper on a block. Sand in a diagonal pattern // then \\ crisscrossing and creating an imaginary "X" over the work area. Do this until you level the filler with the surrounding metal. This will take some practice to get correct. A helpful trick is to apply a guide coat of black spray paint to see if there is any low spots or high spots in the filler.
3. Continue this process of applying filler and then smoothing, and after every coat go to a higher grade sandpaper. For such a small job like this you may only need one coat of filler before glaze. You could start with 180 grit depending on the condition of the metal after the welding.
4. Stop when you feel, with your hand, that the surface is level with the surrounding area and there is no bumps, or dimples. You will finish the filler with 400 grit before applying the glaze. Glaze is basically used to fill any fine scratches still left in the surrounding metal from sanding, or pin-holes that are in the filler. You will apply this extremely thin over the filler with a decent amount of pressure to fill any imperfections.
5. Let the glaze dry and sand with the same process as before, but not so much that you start to take off material from the filler below. You will see the glaze fill the scratches and pin-holes.
6. After this work you will get a good feel for sanding and should feather out the existing paint surrounding your area of repair. Use 400 to scuff existing paint.
7. Mask up for high build primer by back taping your work area and covering anything you do not wish to get primer on. Never apply primer to the edge of the tape or you will get a "hard edge".
8. Let primer dry and wet sand with 400/600 grit paper.
9. Send it to paint.
If you have any specific questions about this process (which I'm sure you will) just ask.
Where in NE are you located?
Thanks a lot for your Guidance .They are really helpful in my work.I am owner of Marlow auto body shop
.We offer a wide range of a offers wide range of auto body services including collision repair, car painting, body work, dent removal, hail repair, scratch removal, custom painting, etc. And i really appreciate these type of forums that help me in my work