17mm Rear Sway Bar
So, after doing my research, I discovered that the BH Outback, and BH Legacy have the same style sway bars in the rear. So, I figured since the Subaru Baja is basically a BH Outback chassis, why not see if I could use the Baja rear sway bar.
All in all, it took 20 minutes and it was a different beast around the corners. Beware though, the Baja sway bar WILL rub a little under the car on the BH Legacys, not sure about the Outbacks though since they have spacers in their suspensions. But it does work fine. Mine's been on over 8 months will A LOT of very hard and bumping driving, and road trips.
The BH Legacy's sway bar is 13mm thick and you can literally bend it with your arm strength. The Baja's rear sway bar is 17mm thick OEM and I could not even bend it by hanging from it. LOL I also got some Whiteline bushings but they aren't pictured. The BH Legacy end links are solid metal, and mine were in okay shape. You may want to go ahead and get some stiffer Whiteline sway bar end links.
I enjoy left over sear because it is very useful in many understeer situations on gravel and snow to help recover the turn. Which is my reasoning for this $95 total upgrade. $95 is way better than name brand $180+ sway bars out there that were a bit too stiff for what I wanted anyways. I need very good independent suspension travel, but if you go too stiff on sway bars, you tend to loose a little suspension independence.
Here is the comparison.
First, unbolt the 4 12mm (maybe 14mm, can't remember...) bolts holding the sway bar bushings and clamps to the car.
Next the annoying sway bar link nuts (I think 17mm... Correct me if I'm wrong!) It's way easier to get these of with and impact gun, but if all you have is hand wrenches, get a good vise grip because the bolts will probably spin freely.
This is where you will see that the Baja sway bar contacts under the car. But it bolts in fine.
4EAT center differential lock switch
I won't post my process, but you can find it here:
WRX Hood Scoop Install
Now for this, you must be willing to mutilate your hood, otherwise, buy an expensive Baja Sport hood. They came with hood scoops OEM.
First, I prepped my WRX hood scoop I got rom my buddy. I gently grinded off all of the little plastic bits that prevented it from sitting flush on my hood, EXCEPT FOR THE TWO BOLT HOLES ON THE LEFT AND RIGHT SIDES!
I then measured and stenciled my hood. (I had some very good help here from an awesome, car obsessed, co-worker with a GREAT EYE! Thanks!)
Next, the cut! No going back now! (Safety first!)
I also drilled small holes in the hood for the screws on the hood scoop to mount through.
Then, I put some bonding epoxy that can be sanded on the contact points around the edges for rain seal. Makes sure it is sand able and paintable. (Bondo is perfect!)
Lastly, I screwed the mounting screws from the bottom to hold the hood scoop in place, and put a tone of heavy crap on top until it dried to get it to seat flush to the hood.
Here is the result! Not bad for $60 functional hood scoop.
Here is how high it sits. Not too high in my opinion.
And by functional, I mean literal for cold air intake purposes. I have top mount intercooler in my future plans, so it needed to be done anyways. People don't realize that a fender mounted filter doesn't do well with the insane gravel/mud roads of North Dakota, it will get completely muddy and soak with water. Which is why I did this!
The filter is mounted directly onto the throttle body. And yes, I could seriously feel a difference in power above 30 MPH.
Now, to curb some criticism before it begins. The engine bay is hot enough at temperature to dry up rain water and evaporate it. I have been in many torrential downpours going 75 MPH and the filter is still completely dry upon inspection. Same in the 5 blizzards this year. Now I do have to park with the hood scoop facing down wind of the snow of coarse, because the entire engine bay fills with snow now. But it has been completely safe and I have had NO problems.