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Old 03-17-2009, 02:18 PM   #118
Defiant Autospeed
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Member#: 155450
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Austin/Beverly 2 of us now!
Vehicle:
2007 FXT
WRB

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Well, GFB valves have a metal piston and they are useless, the SSQV works better than those. I wont even sell them . So metal or plastic doesnt always mean the difference.

The valves, off the top of my head that worked best

TIAL (best out there)
APS
Perrin
TurboXS (for some reason the 2 RFLs I tested didnt hold as solid, even though internally they appear to be identical, but the normal TXS valves worked very well once spring tension was set properly)
The Greddy was OK at stock boost and up a little. I didnt like how it performed beyond about 15PSI though.
The Blitz was OK as well, I didnt love it though. Was a bit hinky getting it set up just right.


95% of BOV problems come from the fact that 95% of people buy the valve, open the box, bolt it on, and expect it to work properly. And in many cases it does, but in many cases you need to adjust it a little bit. You should always at least check to see it its functioning properly. If you have an idle problem, if your idle changes AT ALL, then you have a leak, its either that your install went wrong, or the valve is open at idle and needs to be adjusted or lubed, or both. That brings me to the next problem. Most people slap the valve on and forget about it. Its a mechanical part, just like everything else, and it needs to be maintained. You should at every oil change, take it apart, clean it with some brake clean, and LIGHTLY lubricate it. I like copper anti-seize. But less is more in this case.
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Last edited by Defiant Autospeed; 03-17-2009 at 02:24 PM.
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