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Old 03-10-2011, 10:21 AM   #68
jetski247
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 188171
Join Date: Aug 2008
Chapter/Region: TXIC
Location: bryan/college station
Vehicle:
04 sti baby
wrb

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i would like to chime in that break in is important but what is prob most important is material used on piston rings.

sea doo engines for examply come with a top "L" dyke ring that is chrome plated and requires 10hrs of break in..........yeah, 10 hrs is a long time on the water but the chrome ring is so hard that it take a long time for break in and dogging the snot out of it might not be a good thing since it can't "in theory" seal perfect in its early life. but once it does seat...........it will last for a long long time.

most piston rings i use that are aftermarket come with a coating that is suppose to "speed" up ring seal. on these engines, it is very important to break the engine in given the short window of opportunity that you have. most important is no steady throttle, you need to vary the rpm as much as possible so you look like an idiot on the water for the first tank of gas.

since motomans methods prob work on street bikes, we don't know what ring material is used on those bike engines. that window might be short as it is in most jet ski engines as well.............so on a scoobie engine, ring material is a huge questions as is any coatings on the rings.

i'm sure there are a huge selection of ring material used for the multitude of aftermarket piston/rings available to us. another note, final hone pattern plays a role in ring material too. sea doo uses three different grit stones to do a deep, mid and short crosshatch pattern to aid in the long break in of the "L" dyke ring which is prob about 3 times more surface area than a standard ring.

i agree with motomans break in methods but there are some rings that are different and i can't say that his methods apply to all engines by no means.

the pole at the top needs a third option..........depends on ring material/coating/crosshatch pattern used and engine type.
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