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Old 04-02-2012, 03:57 PM   #17
builthatch
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 185105
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: near the ocean, NJ
Vehicle:
2009 C63 AMG
Palladium Silver

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Quote:
Originally Posted by methodically View Post
i'm with you on most of this except 2 things.. I have read that the opti-coat is as thick as 2 microns.

The other thing is that initally people were applying OC to their glass, Optimum doesn't really recommend it. I don't know why. It was in an interview I read with one of the reps for them.

I'm not sure if clear bra will even stick to OC? I've thought about it myself, but I am likely just going to go with a set of RA UR mudflaps. Some people don't like them, but it's better then sandblasted paint.
not 2 microns. a properly applied coat of opti-guard will be closer to 1 micron and the 2.0 will be somewhere between that and .5.

a clear bra will indeed stick to OC - no problem there. and in fact you can coat the clear bra as well for quite a bit of protection.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kean View Post
....some folks still apply OC to glass. From the beginning Dr G didn't recommend its use on these surfaces due to potential safety concerns in relation to optical clarity/distortion possibly caused by the product.
that is correct - there is a possibility of slight distortion that comes with overapplication, you know, when you get that hazy or "rainbow" effect that comes when it's a bit too thick...too much product. it can be easily leveled, though. so, the real problem with glass, specifically windshields, given that you are applying it properly, is this: inorganic acids and abrasion are the only real enemies of Opti-Coat. well, on a windscreen, the wipers abrade the glass so you end up losing the coating. a better (easier, more cost effective) choice is to simply occasionally treat the windshield with optimum spray wax after cleaning. that's what i do! the rest of the windows? coat them without worry. just make sure you are applying it properly and very sparingly.

Quote:
Originally Posted by methodically View Post
I can't say from experience because I never applied it to the glass myself. I always just use rain-x which is very slick. Our issue here is town water and it is the most horrible water i've ever seen in my life. OC isn't the best with spotting... as many LSP's may not be and it's not slick... not to the touch anyway. I'm going to add it to pillars between the windows and any other plastic area where the water can actually penetrate into the finish and have to be buffed out.

I did consider adding an LSP over it, even though I know they don't last long, but Werkstatt's acrylic jett trigger is about the best looking LSP I have seen and it is an acrylic polymer so perhaps it's lifespan might be a little longer ( hope anyway). We'll see.
in my opinion opti-coat can look sensational (not just protect incredibly) but it depends strongly on the substrate condition. the old "jeweling" moniker that has been thrown about for a few years re: polishing might not necessarily be a bad idea if you are super duper sensitive to the slight differences in various LSP appearances. obviously, the closer the substrate is to microscopically flat, the more incredible the overall package will look when encapsulated by the coating.

great discussion guys. like i might have mentioned, i'm glad to see this technology being discussed outside of the boutique detailing sites!
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