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Old 06-21-2006, 07:31 PM   #1
jared nelson
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Default Subaru full offroad Long travel Sandcar conversion project.

I am converting my 2005 WRX into a sandrail by removing everything except for the rear differential, axles, spindles, hubs and rotors, and designing and installing a new frame, engine suspension, interior, and.... basically eveything.

Infact its not going to be a subaru at all. I am just using a subaru rear diff, axles and spindle setup.

Ill show a few pics. The reason I am posting here, is because I love subaru's, and have owned 3 WRXs since 03 when I bought my first one. Anyways, I was hoping to get some fun input from people on these boards about what to do with the car. Subaru owners might be able to help me encorporate some cool ideas into the car using subaru technology.

Anyways Ill post some pics of the build inas it has progressed so far.
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Old 06-21-2006, 07:41 PM   #2
jared nelson
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My projections for the car are as follows...

.2 hp/weight ratio
200hp
1000lbs GVW
22" travel front
20" travel rear


Engine is 2003 GSXR 750



here are the ATV spindles hubs and brakes that I am using up front.



Frame after tack welding and before modification



Suby diff all mounted up



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Old 06-21-2006, 08:28 PM   #3
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great project! def post pics once you mount the motor
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Old 06-21-2006, 08:52 PM   #4
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host then post, young padawan
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Old 06-21-2006, 10:10 PM   #5
jared nelson
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Well here are a few random shots I have laying around. This weekend is going to be the good stuff. My Heim Joints are all getting here friday, along with my front and rear sprockets, Chain, weld in pipe adapter, and other things that will allow me to make the a arms. I just picked up another 50 feet of tubing that will be used to fabricate the front a arms, and various other braces and structural peices. I am going to make the Jig to sit the cars frame down onto, and weld it into place. That will allow me to be able to build the car simetrically and within a week or 2 it will be held up on its own tires. I am also going to be setting it up to drive on the street, so what that means is that I will be using a lower ride setting, (about 8 inches ground clearance.) and street /dirt tires, probly BF goodies or something. For that part of it, I am really exited. Ive never popped a wheelie on the street before, but I am sure that time will come soon.

Various pics of the subaru diff installed. Just tack welds at this point. Also, there is one shot of the engine sitting about where it will sit while in the car. The rear diff will be run by a chain connected to the primary sprocket on the Bikes 6 speed trans, and the overall gear reduction will be 6.31. That will make for about 15mph in 1st gear, and just about 100 in 6th. Talk about alot of shifting, I think Ill normally start in 2nd gear, and be through the rest of the gears within a few seconds.

After turbocharging the GSXR motor, I should have about 200hp, and probably 120 ft lbs of torque. That should feel somwhat like a 600hp honda, but with really close gears, and about 60% of the weight in the back.




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Old 06-22-2006, 01:18 AM   #6
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Where are the pics with the engine and such? I am curious about how you are doing this.
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Old 06-22-2006, 01:58 AM   #7
jared nelson
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Oops im sorry, I didnt post those.

The engine is not mounted, but I have these shots of it basically sitting exactly where it will be.

Ill explain, because the pictures leave alot to to imagination.

The engine is mounted longetudinally, in front of the diff. (mid engine). The engine has a sprocket coming off of it. Normally the sprocket runs to the back of the bike, where the secondary sprocket is, and there is some sort of gear reduction. In this car, that sprocket and its whole housing are going to be replaced by a unit that looks like this...

That allows the chain to run in any direction, 360 degrees, rather than it just having to go to where the back of the bike goes. Next, at the input shaft of the rear differential, there will be a sprocket mounted as well. The sprocket will obviously be drilled to have a bolt pattern that matches the subaru rear diff input shaft bolts.

Next, the 2 sprockets are connected by a chain, just like a bike. That will get power to the ground.

Here are a few pics of the engine sitting in the car just like it will when its all done.


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Old 06-22-2006, 07:22 AM   #8
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wow, sweet...

what kind of tube bender do you have???

sjd
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Old 06-22-2006, 11:55 AM   #9
jared nelson
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The bender is actually from harbor freight.
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Old 06-23-2006, 01:05 PM   #10
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I got some BADASS framing, and bracing all tack welded in place, and no ****ING batteries to take pics. You guys will like it!
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Old 06-24-2006, 03:51 AM   #11
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Here are some more pictures of the frame. I got lots done today. Got lots in the mail, and wll get more parts tomorrow. These pics are just a few of many. If anyone wants to see anything, let me know.




Lots of triangulation still to do, but Its well on its way,

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Old 06-26-2006, 06:05 PM   #12
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Here are the Tube ends. They are billet little things of beauty.



Sprocket adapter that allows me to run the sprocket outide of the widest part of the engine.



Here are a few shots of the front suspension articulation. My actual arms wil be about 3 inches longer, so travel will be even better than this, but so far, im able to get 27 inches of trave ouf of it. I dont plan on using all 27 inches, 20 inches will be perfect.


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Old 06-26-2006, 09:23 PM   #13
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This brings back memories of my Mini-Baja days in college.

Make sure you watch those front heim joints. We were bending the crap out of the 5/8" heims on the spindle and flat out snapping the 1/2" heims on the inner A-arm mounts. This was with a 500 lb buggy and only 10 hp, it only did around 40 mph. If your seriously only going to be using it in the sand then you'll probably be ok.

Long A-arms rock, we got 14" of travel out of 18" long arms, so your super long arms should work out nice with the right shocks.

Cool project, I'll be watching with great interest.
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Old 06-26-2006, 10:38 PM   #14
jared nelson
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This should be about double the weight, and about 20 times the horsepower, once the turbo is in...

These A arms will be about 32 inches from pivot to pivot, and I am using nothing other than 4130 Chromoly 3/4" heim joints, so Hopefully I wont be bending anything. I also don't plan on using the heims as bump stops, or limiting stops. Ill be using the shocks as bump stops, and limiting straps to keep the suspension from drooping.

Here are a few other pics that haven't been posted yet.

engine bay to show how much room it has.


Front A arm mounts. 1/4 steel.


Front View shows how the front Aarm mounts are about 5 inches higher than the rears. This helps the car make its way over bumps, by allowing the a arms to cycle backward while cycling up, rather than cycling forward first.


Here are the paddles i am going to use. They are 31" tall, and about 14" wide.


Quick shot of some of the Triangulation I am doing. It shoud be really strong. The steel being used on the frame is all 1.25 inch .120 wall DOM steel, which means that its not seam welded from sheets, it has no seams. Much stronger than regular ERW steel.


Front veiw from top.


Another shot of the front setup.


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Old 06-27-2006, 03:28 PM   #15
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Yeah it sucks we had to use a 10HP briggs, coulda been a ton of fun with about 50 HP. We weren't useing the heims as stops either, just the impact of hitting jumps and bumps were enough to snap the rear heim on the inner a-arm mounts. The outers bent quite a bit but I think that was primarily due to the fact that some of our drivers had a hard time slowing down for some table tops and ended up nosediving into the dirt. We ran about 20* of front kickup like you mentioned, it really is the key to high speed stability over the bumps. Also the way your setup looks the rear link of your A-arm is much further back than the front link, this should help to absorb the impact in compression instead of bending like what happens when your A-arm links are close together.

3/4" should be fine, if my memory serves me correctly that should be about twice the strength of the 5/8" we were using.

Edit: If someone would let me know how, I'd post a pic.

Last edited by Bronson M; 06-27-2006 at 03:56 PM.
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Old 06-27-2006, 03:55 PM   #16
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our mini baja's are slow...so our 04 fsae car is getting a lift, already has a gsr600 in it and weighs 500 lbs...
the RHB5 turbo sitting on the shelf will be tossed on too

I'll be watching this build!!
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Old 06-27-2006, 04:51 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Homemade WRX
our mini baja's are slow...so our 04 fsae car is getting a lift, already has a gsr600 in it and weighs 500 lbs...
the RHB5 turbo sitting on the shelf will be tossed on too

I'll be watching this build!!
That is awesome. I am throwing a t22/25 on this motor too if it doesn't sell really soon. Should be good for about 200hp or so, at 6-8 psi. Ill be running an intercooler, as well as a BOV, because I think that is the only way to roll on these bike motors. Most people dont install an intercooler. I think thats retarded.

Anyways, the Heims should be strong enough to take whatever i throw thow at them, or rather throw them at. The static load rating is 18.800 lbs.
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Old 06-28-2006, 07:02 PM   #18
jared nelson
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heres what I think I want to do with the rest of the frame... Im not sure if I can think of anything better. If anyone has any ideas on this feel free to let me know.

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Old 06-29-2006, 12:32 AM   #19
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looks like pretty good triangulation and load pathing except for the upper "ladder" rail by the driver/passengers shouler...
I would remove the ladder bars and drop two single bars to the center to make them triangulated and meet in the center....like on the bottom (but they come up)
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Old 06-29-2006, 12:49 AM   #20
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not sure I know what you mean? Like this?

If that is the case, I think we would want the pillars to meet in the middle of the upper bar. You have to path the impact the correct way, Basically spread the stress out into as many origins of impact as possible, and then route it back to a strong central intersection right?

I think that with the pipes meeting in the middle it would not keep the roll cage from shifting laterally, like when you land a jump really hard on only one side. The shocks are going to be pushing really hard onto the cage when we hit those jumps, and we want to take the stress pushed by the shocks and defuse it into the frame. (keep in mind I am a beginner.)
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Old 06-29-2006, 01:39 AM   #21
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no, I was talking about on the side....
since I don't have a server at the moment or the time to draw it up I will have to do it tomorrow...
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Old 06-29-2006, 01:41 AM   #22
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sweet.
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Old 06-29-2006, 03:36 AM   #23
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Awesome project. Can't wait to see the final result.
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Old 06-29-2006, 05:34 AM   #24
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And here are some shots showing the rear of teh car. I need to figure a way to mount a shock on there, and also structure the rear of the car.


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Old 06-29-2006, 05:34 AM   #25
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Also, I got my sprockets and my chain in the mail today.

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