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Old 08-24-2006, 11:06 AM   #1
BURTONRIDR
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Default Head Bolts

Ok I know Im supposed to change the head bolts everytime the head gaskets are changed but, I just changed them the last time I did the heads, which wasnt very loing ago. However the reason Im changing the head gasket is because the engine over heated very bad So should I change them or not?

I also need so help with the following information (I dont trust haynes). Does someone own or have access to a service manual?

Head torque pattern

Head torque spec

cam retainer pattern and torque spec

camshaft torque spec

Crankshaft torque spec

Idler pulley torque spec

Water pump bolt pattern and torque spec

Oil pan bolt torque pattern and spec

Oil pump torque pattern and spec
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Old 08-24-2006, 11:08 AM   #2
SOLUTION
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The head bolts don't need to be changed every time.
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Old 08-24-2006, 11:28 AM   #3
BURTONRIDR
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What im concerned about is that the engine got really hot, I think they should be ok (the fact that the set costs around $70 makes me think there "ok") but I just want to be sure, I dont want to have to do this again for awhile
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Old 08-24-2006, 11:44 AM   #4
Russell Rogers
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They nshould be changed because they stretch when torqued, But its been discussed before so do a search on it also.
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Old 08-24-2006, 12:45 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Russell Rogers
They nshould be changed because they stretch when torqued, But its been discussed before so do a search on it also.
The Subaru service manual does not say to replace the head bolts.
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Old 08-25-2006, 12:45 AM   #6
Russell Rogers
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SOLUTION
The Subaru service manual does not say to replace the head bolts.
Every single Subaru Mechanic and race car mechanic I have ever talked to says change them everytime. Its common metallurgy. Let alone the fact that I am a trained mechanic I would never not change them. But I am anal and think of safety before being cheap.
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Old 08-25-2006, 11:08 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Russell Rogers
Every single Subaru Mechanic and race car mechanic I have ever talked to says change them everytime. Its common metallurgy. Let alone the fact that I am a trained mechanic I would never not change them. But I am anal and think of safety before being cheap.

Yesh... I know, I know.... Im gonna replace them, I just really dont want to buy new ones this is getting expensive quick.

Head bolts $135.98
Head Gaskets $111
Water pump $50
CV Shaft $80
Light weight pulley $110
Headers $210
Sti motor mounts $98
Crank gear $36

Strap wrench $36
3 prong puller $30

Total $896.98

Plus I just spent over $900 on having a stupid shop do basicaly nothing....arrrgghhh

I should have bought an engine off ebay and a cherry picker
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Old 08-24-2006, 12:10 PM   #8
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www.endwrench.com may have the head bolt sequence.
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Old 08-24-2006, 12:10 PM   #9
Tim Sanderson
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Head bolt torqueing sequence for a ej25/ej22 sohc:

C A F
E B D
<----- front of motor

1. apply a coat of engine oil to washers and bolt threads

2. tighten all bolts to 22 ft. lbs. in alphabetical sequence. then tighten all bolts to 51 ft. lbs. in alphabetical sequence.

3. back off all bolts(in sequence) by 180 degrees. back off all bolts again (in sequence) 180 degrees.

4. tighten bolts A & B to 25 ft lbs.

5. tighten bolts C,D,E and F to 11 ft. lbs.

6. tighten all bolts (in sequence) 80-90 degrees. DO NOT EXCEED 90 DEGREES

7. Further tighten all bolts (in sequence) by 80-90 degrees. BETWEEN STEPS 6&7 NO NOT EXCEED 180 degrees.

Done.

More to come.
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Old 08-24-2006, 12:21 PM   #10
BURTONRIDR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim Sanderson
Head bolt torqueing sequence for a ej25/ej22 sohc:


Thanks again tim, youve been a ton of help through this. Is that torque pattern and spec going to be the same on mine? I have a DOHC.
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Old 08-24-2006, 01:05 PM   #11
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ACtually no, the head bolt torqueing pattern is a little different for the dohc motor. Try searching for head bolt torque pattern.


Quote:
Originally Posted by BURTONRIDR
Thanks again tim, youve been a ton of help through this. Is that torque pattern and spec going to be the same on mine? I have a DOHC.
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Old 08-24-2006, 01:14 PM   #12
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Sorry I should have specified which one I was talking about
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Old 08-24-2006, 12:17 PM   #13
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A Haynes manual is your friend. It goes through it step by step, however Tim has it down for you.
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Old 08-24-2006, 12:31 PM   #14
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Camshaft cap install for ej25/ej22 sohc

m c k e o
i
a g
b h
j
p f l d n
1. oil journals and lobes of cam with engine oil
2.place correct cam in head
3. apply a 3mm bead of liquid gasket along outer edge of cam cap channel.
4. temporarily hand tighten bolts g through j (above sequence)

g ac e
f db h
5. install rocker assemblies and tighten bolts a through h in alphabetical order to 19.5 ft. lbs.

k i m

n j l
6. tighten torx plus bolts i through n in alphabetical order to 14.4 ft. lbs. using st 499427000

o q
u s
v t
r p

7. tighten bolts o through v (hex head) in alphabetical sequence to 8.6 ft. lbs.

w
x

8. tighten bolts w and x to 8.6 ft. lbs.

done.

Sorry, my bolt label spacing did not take.
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Old 08-24-2006, 12:38 PM   #15
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Camshaft sprocket bolts are 60.5 ft lbs.

crankshaft pulley bolt is:
ej22--94 ft lbs.
ej25--134 ft lbs.
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Old 08-24-2006, 12:42 PM   #16
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oil pan torque specs

no pattern, use a liquid gasket, 3.6 ft lbs.

idler pulleys:

two big ones on the left side are both 31 ft lbs

toothed one under water pump is also 31 ft lbs.

belt tensioner bolt is 20 ft lbs.
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Old 08-24-2006, 12:46 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim Sanderson
belt tensioner bolt is 20 ft lbs.
Forgot to mention that one, thanks
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Old 08-24-2006, 12:48 PM   #18
Tim Sanderson
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Water pump bolt torque spec and tightening pattern for ej motors

Start with bolt at 2 o:clock position and go clockwise.

first pass torque to 9 ft lbs
second pass torque to 9 ft lbs again.
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Old 08-24-2006, 01:00 PM   #19
Tim Sanderson
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oil pump bolt torqueing sequence and torque spec for ej motors

no sequence listed I just start at the top and skip two going clockwise

Useing a liquid gasket make a thin bead around the outside of the pump staying inside of the bolt holes and outside of the o-ring hole.

Looking at the back of the pump. run a bead from the left side alignment dowel hole diagonally downward to the right along that ridge and down to meet your existing bead.

put a small dab of sealant on the new oil pump seal and affix it onto the recess in the block after you wipe the oil out of there.

Torque spec is 5 ft lbs. go around twice to be sure.
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Old 08-24-2006, 01:01 PM   #20
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Anything else?
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Old 08-24-2006, 01:10 PM   #21
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Burton rider, the cam cap instructions up there are not for you either.

I believe yours are:

a c e
b d f

Tighten a through f through f to 10 ft lbs.
tighten c through f to 16 ft lbs.

You should really verify that because it's from memory.
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Old 08-24-2006, 01:15 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim Sanderson
You should really verify that because it's from memory.
I hope someone has this information or knows where I can find it.
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Old 08-24-2006, 01:36 PM   #23
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And this is why I go to a shop........ Kudos to you guys for doing it yourself and doing it the right way!
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Old 08-24-2006, 02:06 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by problemcat13
And this is why I go to a shop........ Kudos to you guys for doing it yourself and doing it the right way!

Dude pray you took it to a good shop, I dont trust shops. Everytime I take it to one (unless its an oil change or tire work) they either do it wrong or they forget something and I pay way to much. For example just before I decided to do this I took it to a shop to fix what Im fixing myself right now($900 dollar mistake). It is now going to cost me around $500 to replace gaskets, buy tools, etc and do it right. Sorry im still a little angry with them.
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Old 08-24-2006, 09:50 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BURTONRIDR
Dude pray you took it to a good shop, I dont trust shops. Everytime I take it to one (unless its an oil change or tire work) they either do it wrong or they forget something and I pay way to much. For example just before I decided to do this I took it to a shop to fix what Im fixing myself right now($900 dollar mistake). It is now going to cost me around $500 to replace gaskets, buy tools, etc and do it right. Sorry im still a little angry with them.
I understand that for sure. I do my brakes myself, many other things not too major (spark plugs, some mods), but I had the dealer do my head gasket since it was under warranty anyhow (gives me another year warranty for their work!).

Of course, that's the great thing about the community here on Nabisco, you can pop a question when you run into something strange. Mainly, I just don't have the time (commute 2.25 hours a day, work 9 hours, have a 2 year old and a 2 month old, and when I get home, it's MY TURN!)

Good luck on your work man. I might even have something to add one day, as I'm not a complete stranger to working on cars!
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