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Old 11-24-2001, 05:40 PM   #1
Corn-Picker
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Member Sales Rating: (3)
 
Member#: 8679
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Morgantown, WV
Vehicle:
2010 The most hated
vehicle on the internets

Thumbs up Suby Sports pulley kit for WRX

I know there is a post below about this kit but that was an RS and I did a WRX install so I thought I would share

Fit and finish of the pulleys is excellent. I would say the crank pulley is one third to one fourth the weight of the stock pulley The stock pulley is one heavy chunk of metal. The aftermarket crank pulley is some kind of metal, while the alternator pulley is some kind of ceramic. I know it's ceramic/pressed powder because my jackass cousin started to play with the alternator pulley and dropped it on cemect, putting a few fair sized chips in it I'll let you guys know if I have any trouble with the chipped pulley down the line. Of course I don't blame Suby Sports if anything happens to it, it was 100% the faul of my cousin being a dumbass...

The pulleys are not underdriven so no worries about dimming headlights or such.

Finding the tools needed for the install was more difficult than the install itself for me. I would estimate one hour to install both the crankshaft pulley and alternator pulley. You may need a buddy to help with some steps.

To do the install you need
10 mm socket
12 mm socket
14 mm socket
22 mm socket, my socket set stopped at 21 mm
24 mm socket
Breaker bar
Torque wrech capable of about 90-100 foot-pounds of torque

I torqued my crank pully to about 85 pounds, and a little less for my alternator pulley. To stop the crankshaft pulley from turning I put my car in fifth and had someone step on the brakes hard. For the alternator pulley I jsut loosened the bolt when the belt was tight.

Because the pulleys are not underdriven, you can count how many times you turn your screwdirver (with socket attatchment) when loosening the belts, so you can tighten them that many times again when you are finished. I had to turn the adjustment screws on both the idler pulley and alternator 35 times to get the belts loose enough to remove. Don't forget to loosen the idler puller and alternator slide bolt before starting, and don't forget to tighten them after finishing

I don't know what to say about gains. People have always told me that you can't feel a gain from new pulleys, but I swear the car feels like it's pulling more. Feels better to me, and even if it's all in my head, I guess that's all that matters It really does seem quicker in 2nd and less hesitant in 4th and 5th.

Oh well, I think the kit is very worth it for $170. It's one of those rare mods that gives you more power and puts less strain on your engine at the same time. How many mods can you say that about
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Old 11-27-2001, 04:16 PM   #2
Fusion
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Location: In the trash can to which peop
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2000 2.5RS Coupe
Silverthorne Metallic

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So did you install the alt. pulley? I haven't been able to figure out how to do that without breaking the alternator. What was your technique?

Haig
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Old 11-28-2001, 04:11 PM   #3
Corn-Picker
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Location: Morgantown, WV
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2010 The most hated
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Leave the belt on when you loosen the bolt, and tighten the belt before tightening the bolt. Seemed to work, hopefully I didn't break anything...

One has to wonder though, why is an alternator pulley bolt a 24mm and a crankshaft bolt only 22mm Not that either bolt is really small, but why so big for the alternator? I'll keep you guys updated as to how the chipped alternator pulley holds up...
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Old 11-29-2001, 07:12 PM   #4
2OHOH2WRX
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Location: CHS, SC, USA
Default Alt pulley

Hey Fusion,

you can also stick a standard-diameter cross/Philips screwdriver through one of the ROUND holes (they have the strongest/beefiest aluminum around them) in the front alternator housing. This will effectively keep the rotor from turning, and... presto
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Old 11-29-2001, 07:32 PM   #5
Fusion
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Member#: 553
Join Date: Nov 1999
Location: In the trash can to which peop
Vehicle:
2000 2.5RS Coupe
Silverthorne Metallic

Default

Could you describe this a little more? There are holes in the housing of the alt. but I don't see how they are related to the movement of the pulley. Do you mean wedge the screwdriver between the blades inside the alt.? If so, that's how I broke mine the first time around. Maybe there's a way to do it without breaking it?

Haig
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Old 11-29-2001, 07:39 PM   #6
2OHOH2WRX
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I used the round holes (as opposed to using the 50 or so thin slits used for cooling), and stuck the screwdriver in between the thick parts of the rotor, so there was no chance of anything breaking; the two parts that pressure was applied to (the thick-rimmed round hole, of which there are about 4 around the whole alternator, and the steel rotor parts) were far stronger than any pressure I could have applied with my 1.5ft-long breaker bar. Just make sure that you get rid of any loose play in the direction you're turning, so there's no impact on the alloy housing (the most fragile part). Should've taken a pic
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