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Old 02-06-2007, 11:05 PM   #1
WagonGGA
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: Yankee Stadium
Vehicle:
08/4 Subaru
Legacy Spec B/Forester XT

Default P1507-Tried everything except.....

Hey guys, I didn't know where to post so I am posting it here since its a legacy and when I first came across this code, most search result came from here. So I bought a 99 Legacy Outback about 3 weeks ago, Guy I bought it from tells me that every once in a while he gets a check engine and car runs bad similar to running on 2 cylinder. So I buy the car from the guy cheap, It has about 180000 miles. I run the car for about 400 miles without check engine light on and finally it came on. Ran a Scanner on the car and came back with engine code p1507. I looked up the code and it wasn't anything concrete as to what was causing it.
I found a bunch of thread here about the iac being dirty with built-up. So I decide to do a tune up last week. I did the spark plugs, Wires, Air-fuel-oil Filters, Oil, Drained the coolant. I decide to remove the iac and to my surprise, the thing cant be more then 2 months old. I guess the guy replaced it trying to fix the p1507 code and wasn't successful. I decided to buy the Neutral switch and replace it after I found a bulletin regarding the neutral switch going bad and be the culprit.
The switch cost me $20.00 at the dealership.
Here is a picture of what it looks like.


Going to install it before Friday when I get a chance from school and work. Wish me luck with taking care of this darn code. I refuse to have a check engine light on.
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Old 03-23-2007, 12:00 AM   #2
ToneW
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Hey, I have the EXACT same problem and have done EVERYTHING you have. I also have the neutral switch on order. I have dealing with this problem for a few months as well and really tired of it. Please let me know what happens with your car! Nobody can seem to help me and i've replaced a bunch of parts. Just post an update here or feel free to message me. Thanks.

Tone
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Old 03-23-2007, 12:15 AM   #3
Dobes
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Good luck, there's a ton of info available on the internet. For instance, the very first website I found on yahoo searching for "Subaru P1507":

http://autorepair.about.com/library/a/1g/bl796g.htm

About the 3rd site netted this:

http://www.endwrench.com/pdf/fuel/Di...odeInfoW99.pdf

Just keep at it and make sure to post back once you've solved the problem.
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Old 03-23-2007, 12:22 AM   #4
ToneW
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dobes View Post
Good luck, there's a ton of info available on the internet. For instance, the very first website I found on yahoo searching for "Subaru P1507":

http://autorepair.about.com/library/a/1g/bl796g.htm

About the 3rd site netted this:

http://www.endwrench.com/pdf/fuel/Di...odeInfoW99.pdf

Just keep at it and make sure to post back once you've solved the problem.
Yup, already looked at those awhile back. Definitely good info. to have though. I really hope this neutral switch fixes the problem....knock on wood.
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Old 03-24-2007, 12:35 PM   #5
gaiadennis
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Default Legacy GT with P1507 - coolant in IAC-Throttle Body Hose?

Hi guys,

Same problem here. I have a Legacy GT with ~140k on it. Yesterday, I started car and it stalled almost immediately. Cranking on the engine for 10 seconds did not start the engine. I turned key off, waited a few seconds and tried again. This time car started, but RPMs reached about 2200 for 30-45 seconds, then subsided, but car runs really rough and has thrown 1507 code.

I tested per the idle air control (IAC) test procedure and am getting voltage (not much) on middle pin of IAC connector, and resistance between pins 1-2 and 2-3 on IAC seems correct: about 9 ohms.

When I pulled the hose that connects the IAC to the throttle body, a fair amount of coolant leaked out.

I am off to pull the IAC off the engine and see if the shutter is closed and clean it out while I am at it. Hopefully things are just dirty and need cleaned out.

Last edited by gaiadennis; 03-24-2007 at 12:52 PM.
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Old 03-24-2007, 05:53 PM   #6
gaiadennis
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Default Cleaning fixed it... for now

Well, I did a thorough cleaning of the IAC using alcohol and carb cleaner, put it back on the car, cleared the code and everything works great now. It is probably failing, so I will be keeping my eyes open for a spare.
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Old 09-11-2007, 10:16 AM   #7
warrior
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Did anyone ever get an update on this??
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Old 12-22-2007, 08:44 PM   #8
paintbing
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Bump for answer on neutral switch... I have this code and my throwout bearing won't grap the pressure plate, so I'm hoping that the Throwout bearing is the cause of this code. Thanks!
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Old 06-13-2008, 12:32 AM   #9
B2.5GT
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Anybody find an answer to there problem, I had an idea I heard that the p1507 code could be caused becuase of Spedometor cluster or the speedometer sensor.
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Old 06-13-2008, 06:46 AM   #10
warrior
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Yep, neutral switch fixed it for me.. easy $30 repair
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Old 08-27-2008, 11:27 PM   #11
POSBUTAWD
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Just ordered the neutral switch (which is now up to $48) for my '99 Outback. Then came back here and noticed that no one mentioned a manual transmission along with this code. Are manual trannies affected by the same switch going bad?
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Old 09-01-2008, 01:23 PM   #12
warrior
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Atlantic Blue

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I thought it was only manual trannies that were infected by this?? because there really is no need for a neutral switch to be in a automatic because it's designed completely different.

Mine's a '99 Legacy, manual tranny and the neutral switch fixed my problem as well
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Old 09-01-2008, 06:45 PM   #13
POSBUTAWD
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I bumped into an article that mentioned the neutral switch and it turned out to be specific to the 4EAT cars, which is why I was asking.
I swapped mine in last night, cleared the codes. The car ran great all night. Went to start it this morning and it fell back on its damn face again! No power, and a loud whirring sound under load.
Still getting the knock sensor code with a new sensor. And for the short time that it did run well, it would still buck like crazy and miss at anything more than 20% throttle. P1507 actually points to a faulty IAC, which is also new here. Now what?
I'm ready to sell this thing to anyone who's willing to put in some troubleshooting time into it. I've got two other rides to rely on.
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Old 09-02-2008, 12:51 AM   #14
evan55
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I sometime get the P1507 code. What does the neutral switch do? is it an easy install?
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Old 09-02-2008, 09:32 PM   #15
POSBUTAWD
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It's easy, but it didn't solve my problem. Going back to it tonight to scan the codes, and see if clearing them will bring the power back. If so, then I'm definitely not dealing with anything mechanical here. People are trying to tell me that I may have a burned valve. I don't think it would cause the power loss to be intermittent though.
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Old 09-15-2008, 05:49 AM   #16
Mike_Subaru
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Default Same 1507 Issue....

OK, this is the first time I ever trusted the dealership to do w0rk and not over charge me. So, I have had the dreaded 1507 for months now with 110,000 on a 2002 Legacy 2.5, with Manual Tranni. I have already changed the IAC, the air assist valve, and cleaned the hell out of the Throttle body, replaced any old vacuum lines, and the fuel filter.

They charged me $100.00 for clean the battery terminals. It only took 2 days for the error to come back. They said if that did not fix it, they wouyld be happy to start changing things at my expense till it works.

Is the tranny case Nuetral position switch really the fix? The one on the tranni case, not the clutch pedel...right!!! It lists at $27.00.

The error happens exactly the same time each morning. Exactly 10 minutes into the engine run time, I will be traveling down a hill at 35 MPH, then shift from 3rd to 2nd, and while I am switching, Bam... The CEL comes on. It is very relaiable and I know exactly when it will light. The engine ruins good otherwise, once in a while the engine idle will drop below 500 RPM's but quickly picks up again. It has not stalled since I changed the fuel filter 2 weeks ago.

If I take a different route to work, that does not have that hill, it will not come on.

I have head the 2000 - 2001 ECM's had a reflash code to get rid of the 1507 error. The reflash acually deleats the code. Sounds like Subaru needs to be more honest with thier customers. It sounds like an official recall should be made. My car is a 2002 and they will not do the re-program for me. My MFG date is 9/1/2001. The reflash only costs $97.00. Has anyone else heard of this reflash, and will it work for me?

Thanx. Extreamly fustraited Subaru customer...

Last edited by Mike_Subaru; 09-15-2008 at 09:19 AM.
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Old 09-15-2008, 11:12 PM   #17
Gibbons98legacygt
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Red

Default iac

Hello there i work at a subaru dealership in portland. Subaru's come in with this problem all the time the nuetral switch fixes it most of the time and if that dosent fix it you can try and do a quick and take the iac valve out and clean it out with brake clean witch will fix it maybe for a little but you will most likly have to replace the iac valve whick will fix it unless you have wiring problems. My personal car is a 98 legacy gt it was doing all the same stuff and i replaced the iac valve and now it runs amazing.
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Old 09-18-2008, 08:12 AM   #18
Mike_Subaru
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gibbons98legacygt View Post
Hello there i work at a subaru dealership in portland. Subaru's come in with this problem all the time the nuetral switch fixes it most of the time and if that dosent fix it you can try and do a quick and take the iac valve out and clean it out with brake clean witch will fix it maybe for a little but you will most likly have to replace the iac valve whick will fix it unless you have wiring problems. My personal car is a 98 legacy gt it was doing all the same stuff and i replaced the iac valve and now it runs amazing.
Thanks for your input. So, for the Maual Tranni version, this has fixed the issue many times... ?

Also you do mean the swicth on the tranni housing, not the clutch pedel...correct...?

The IAC is brand new, and so was the old one. It looked maybe 2 years old, so I am sure the previous owner had this issue and that is why he sold it.

Lots of the parts are brand new like my original posting says.

This problem only show us when I change gears, take my foot off the accelerator, then the light pops on. Maybe once every 4 days. Problem is, I can not get a sticker while this issue keeps poping up.
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Old 09-18-2008, 03:40 PM   #19
Gibbons98legacygt
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Red

Default iac

with you saying it happens when you swich gears it sounds like it would be the neutal switch is what messed up it is really easy to change its on the side of the trany i changed mine in like 10 min and there only like 20 bucks so i would try that
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Old 09-18-2008, 06:54 PM   #20
evan55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gibbons98legacygt View Post
with you saying it happens when you swich gears it sounds like it would be the neutal switch is what messed up it is really easy to change its on the side of the trany i changed mine in like 10 min and there only like 20 bucks so i would try that
I just ordered one for $37 CAD. What does the neutral switch look like? is it the bolt with a wire connected to it?
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Old 09-23-2008, 07:22 AM   #21
Mike_Subaru
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Hey Guys, and Gals...

The Tranni Switch Fixed it... $27.95 After $280.00 on other parts I purchased....

The switch can be checked without getting under the car...incase anyone wants to know. Above the bell housing (under the air cleaner) next to the starter is a Brown two wire connector. Un-plug it and ohm it out from there. Mine was OPEN Circuit in and out of gear.

Thanks All...


My Local Subaru dealership did not have a clue. I am going to try to get a free oil change if I tell them how I fixed it.

Why don't the dealerships share these solved problems...???
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Old 05-09-2013, 11:38 AM   #22
jkastrin
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I'm having the same problem with the 1507. I also have a misfire on cylinder 1,2,4, an 0440, 0500 and 1540 code... Any thoughts?
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Old 09-16-2008, 07:55 PM   #23
POSBUTAWD
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I've cleaned the IAC over the weekend. It still revs up to 2500-2800 and holds there during a cold start, then suddenly drops the rpm and enters what feels like the limp home mode where it barely revs and has no power at all. So the fix lately has been turning the ignition key to the off position and then back to run, or simply shutting the engine off and restarting it again. Only then will the car have its full power back.
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Old 09-17-2008, 03:47 PM   #24
evan55
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I have the same cold start problem with the rpm going up to almost 3000 then bogging down. I think i'm just going to replace the neutral switch. Anyone replaced it themselves?
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Old 09-17-2008, 09:03 PM   #25
POSBUTAWD
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Try turning the key to the off position for a split second and then back to the on position (not the start position) The rpms will drop and shoot back up without having to restart the engine. Then tap the throttle to check if the power loss is now gone. It's pretty embarrassing to be saying this, but I guess we have to do what we have to do to keep these clunckers running. I'm selling mine just as soon as it gets a bit colder outside, before the snow hits. The heated seats/mirrors/wipers and AWD should get me a nice profit from this 4 month old disaster.
I'll keep driving my Legacy that I've had for almost four years now.

Jim
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