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Old 10-28-2008, 02:46 PM   #1
Bad Noodle
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Default A Complete Tuning Guide

Current Revision = 1.0

Available at
https://sites.google.com/site/asubienewbietuningguide/

Also Check out thesuicidaleggroll's turbo calculator. Will help you set realistic goals for your car.
http://www.thesuicidaleggroll.com/ho..._calc_v3.0.xls

And if you don't know what the input variables mean, you should probably do some more reading before you start tuning. It's a good test.

If you're having trouble viewing, try it in firefox and ie. It's a google sight and I personally never had any problems with it but others have. Might be from using other browsers. If it doesn't work on major browsers, we'll figure out another host somewhere. Also, if your work filters block google docs (as mine do) you can't click the "view" button. You have to download the document.

UPDATE 10/1/2010: Rewrote some of the wastegate part and cleaned up some wording here and there.

UPDATE 08/12/2009: Just added the references as Tea Cups requested. Info stayed basically the same.

UPDATE 03/31/09: Version 0.5 includes Corrections made as suggested by Tea Cups

UPDATE 03/26/09: a .doc version of this guide. First version .doc version was 0.3
thanks to WideBoy, we now have a great .doc version of this guide. I've been working with him for the last couple of weeks to get it done. We did a great job revising the info here and I would say the .doc verison is superior to these posts. We worked on clearing up things that may seem confusing as well as added some info + revised some tuning techniques to be more clear.

-BN

Last edited by Bad Noodle; 05-06-2011 at 07:58 AM.
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Old 10-28-2008, 02:46 PM   #2
Bad Noodle
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Info removed, too out of date. Read current .doc or .pdf file instead.

Last edited by Bad Noodle; 08-12-2009 at 03:38 PM.
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Old 10-28-2008, 02:46 PM   #3
Bad Noodle
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Info removed, too out of date. Read current .doc or .pdf file instead.

Last edited by Bad Noodle; 08-12-2009 at 03:38 PM.
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Old 10-28-2008, 02:47 PM   #4
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Info removed, too out of date. Read current .doc or .pdf file instead.

Last edited by Bad Noodle; 08-12-2009 at 03:38 PM.
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Old 10-28-2008, 02:47 PM   #5
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Info removed, too out of date. Read current .doc or .pdf file instead.

Last edited by Bad Noodle; 08-12-2009 at 03:38 PM.
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Old 10-28-2008, 02:48 PM   #6
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Info removed, too out of date. Read current .doc or .pdf file instead.

Last edited by Bad Noodle; 08-12-2009 at 03:39 PM.
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Old 10-28-2008, 03:18 PM   #7
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Advice Column:

It's easier to post feedback here since each post can only have 15000 characters and just withing limitations on every post.

From robbieshonda:
Help with your turbo dynamics burst and continuous tables.
Alot of people get a rapid wastegate flutter. This is a semi legable way to fix this problem.

If your target boost tables is 18 psi for a given cell, and you over shoot that your ecu will pull boost by a given amount in the table. If your car is underboost targets and no knock ect the ecu will add wgdc's to hit the target boost.

You should try taking both of those tables Burst and continuous, and Multiply both by .50 which will cut the table in half.

This will generally help get rid of the rapid over boost under boost wg flutter.

vf series guys this can also help you aswell. yours is like mine, mainly just a weak spring but this will help smooth it out.

Hope this helps Great write up.

Robbie
Cobb Protuner.

---------------------------------------------------------

From williaty:

One thing I will touch on, though, is your section on AFRs. Stoich is not ideal for anything other than emissions. Stoich produces the lowest sum of hydrocarbons and oxides of nitrous. It's not the best for fuel economy (leaner than stoich is) and it's not the best for power (richer than stoich is). The reason that richer than stoich is best for power is that, due to real-world imperfections in charge mixture, running an engine at stoich results in both excess oxygen and fuel in the exhaust stream. This is due to some of the oxygen and some of the fuel not being able to find each other in the combustion chamber. Oxygen is the thing it's hard to get into an engine so we want to be damned sure that we burn every last one of the buggers. To ensure this, we add extra fuel to make sure that none of the oxygen escapes alive. For "normal" engines, this results in Mean Best Torque being somewhere in the ballpark of 13 to 13.5 AFR. Now, many engines, especially forced-induction engines, will have problems with knock at that AFR. By further enriching the mixture, the efficiency of the combustion can be reduced to the point that knock is easier to control. Make sure you read that carefully, though. The increased resistance to knock is a result of reduced efficiency. So over-enrichment (richer than 12.5 or so) costs both fuel efficiency and power. However, it allows for higher boost and/or more timing. It's a trade off and different tuners will prioritize different aspects of that trade off. In the end, most theories on that compromise will end up making roughly the same power, just in different ways.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Last edited by Bad Noodle; 10-29-2008 at 06:52 AM.
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Old 10-28-2008, 03:24 PM   #8
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Alright, most of the info is up. I'll have to take some time (a day or 2) formatting it since the formatting changed when I moved it from google docs to here. But read it and feel free to comment. If you think i'm wrong about something let me know. The idea is to have a good resource for new tuners.
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Old 10-28-2008, 03:56 PM   #9
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Great writeup! Thanks!
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Old 10-28-2008, 04:30 PM   #10
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awesome!! cant wait to read it more thoroughly!!
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Old 10-28-2008, 06:20 PM   #11
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Wow, way to go at pulling a lot of info together into one post! This thing needs a sticky so I can point people at it. The "basic theory" of tuning is really quite simple, but you did a good job outlining how tuning a Subaru can be confusing for those un-initiated to the Subaru ECU. I urge anyone (even those just logging and playing with some OTS maps) to read through this thing. Twice.

Good job Bad Noodle.
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Old 10-28-2008, 07:17 PM   #12
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Great stuff!!!!!!
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Old 10-28-2008, 07:51 PM   #13
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Great write up man, it actually answered a couple of questions I was going to ask in the future about this subject. Thanks you sir.
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Old 10-28-2008, 07:13 PM   #14
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great write-up. i have been looking into the OS tune for a little now. i already had the RoMRaider program as well as ECUFlash just need a WB O2, Tactrix cable, and boost gauge to get started. thanks again for the info
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Old 10-28-2008, 09:36 PM   #15
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What an excellent write-up; thanks BN.
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Old 10-28-2008, 10:23 PM   #16
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Glad someone finally put something like this together for the new tuners... While the info is out there, its hard to find and dig through... Took me a long time to find/learn all this stuff on my own... For those just starting to tune, take it SLOW and read a LOT...
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Old 10-28-2008, 10:30 PM   #17
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Want to say great job again, but suggest a few things...

ask mickeyd2005 on romraider if you can copy/paste his maf scaling thread from romraider into your "maf" area...

add "the learning view" tool to the list of "what you need"

and, add merchgod's "explained" threads from ecu analysis on romraider to your links...
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Old 10-28-2008, 11:00 PM   #18
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thank you for this. Its nice to have it in 1 post
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Old 10-28-2008, 11:04 PM   #19
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I've got my new favorite thread! This needs to be a sticky!
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Old 10-28-2008, 11:15 PM   #20
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Very Nice write up. Sent you a pm.
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Old 10-29-2008, 01:01 AM   #21
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You should post a this on RomRaider's forum as well for peer review. You got a couple of details wrong but those guys would do a MUCH better job of explaining all of it that I can.

One thing I will touch on, though, is your section on AFRs. Stoich is not ideal for anything other than emissions. Stoich produces the lowest sum of hydrocarbons and oxides of nitrous. It's not the best for fuel economy (leaner than stoich is) and it's not the best for power (richer than stoich is). The reason that richer than stoich is best for power is that, due to real-world imperfections in charge mixture, running an engine at stoich results in both excess oxygen and fuel in the exhaust stream. This is due to some of the oxygen and some of the fuel not being able to find each other in the combustion chamber. Oxygen is the thing it's hard to get into an engine so we want to be damned sure that we burn every last one of the buggers. To ensure this, we add extra fuel to make sure that none of the oxygen escapes alive. For "normal" engines, this results in Mean Best Torque being somewhere in the ballpark of 13 to 13.5 AFR. Now, many engines, especially forced-induction engines, will have problems with knock at that AFR. By further enriching the mixture, the efficiency of the combustion can be reduced to the point that knock is easier to control. Make sure you read that carefully, though. The increased resistance to knock is a result of reduced efficiency. So over-enrichment (richer than 12.5 or so) costs both fuel efficiency and power. However, it allows for higher boost and/or more timing. It's a trade off and different tuners will prioritize different aspects of that trade off. In the end, most theories on that compromise will end up making roughly the same power, just in different ways.
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Old 10-29-2008, 12:35 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by williaty View Post
You should post a this on RomRaider's forum as well for peer review. You got a couple of details wrong but those guys would do a MUCH better job of explaining all of it that I can.

One thing I will touch on, though, is your section on AFRs. Stoich is not ideal for anything other than emissions. Stoich produces the lowest sum of hydrocarbons and oxides of nitrous. It's not the best for fuel economy (leaner than stoich is) and it's not the best for power (richer than stoich is). The reason that richer than stoich is best for power is that, due to real-world imperfections in charge mixture, running an engine at stoich results in both excess oxygen and fuel in the exhaust stream. This is due to some of the oxygen and some of the fuel not being able to find each other in the combustion chamber. Oxygen is the thing it's hard to get into an engine so we want to be damned sure that we burn every last one of the buggers. To ensure this, we add extra fuel to make sure that none of the oxygen escapes alive. For "normal" engines, this results in Mean Best Torque being somewhere in the ballpark of 13 to 13.5 AFR. Now, many engines, especially forced-induction engines, will have problems with knock at that AFR. By further enriching the mixture, the efficiency of the combustion can be reduced to the point that knock is easier to control. Make sure you read that carefully, though. The increased resistance to knock is a result of reduced efficiency. So over-enrichment (richer than 12.5 or so) costs both fuel efficiency and power. However, it allows for higher boost and/or more timing. It's a trade off and different tuners will prioritize different aspects of that trade off. In the end, most theories on that compromise will end up making roughly the same power, just in different ways.
The best torque mix range is between 11.76 and 12.8.

Mean best torque is 12.28.

A good compromise Torque/Fuel Economy is 12.5
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Old 10-29-2008, 01:11 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 10-56 View Post
The best torque mix range is between 11.76 and 12.8.

Mean best torque is 12.28.

A good compromise Torque/Fuel Economy is 12.5
The two textbooks I've got in front of me disagree with you, placing it learner than that.
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Old 10-29-2008, 01:30 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by williaty View Post
The two textbooks I've got in front of me disagree with you, placing it learner than that.
Can we get a reference?

What books?

Thanks,

sotc
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Old 10-29-2008, 03:00 AM   #25
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Very good write-up. I am also glad to see this all in one place.

I would like to add that even if the intake has not been changed, it would still be wise to check the MAF scaling. I have seen a couple STi's that needed MAF scaling with only a stage 2 setup. Also, I would have assumed that the SPT intake would not have needed any MAF scaling, but it actually needed quite a bit.

Once again, great job in compiling all this info.
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