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Old 03-21-2010, 09:28 AM   #1
240sxguy
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Default Pictures of custom rotated kits?

These have seemed very easy to make since I have started visiting the forum and thought it would be an appropriate thread to get things kicked off.

Lets see it!

Evan
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Old 03-21-2010, 09:43 AM   #2
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Are you talking about rotating a stock turbo (IWG) or buying a turbo w/o the standard exhaust housing and rotating that?
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Old 03-21-2010, 09:47 AM   #3
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Okay lemme clarify;

Using a T3 flanged turbo with an external gate on a EJ motor.

Thanks!
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Old 03-22-2010, 11:59 AM   #4
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Here is some of my work. Did it all Solo











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Old 04-03-2010, 08:21 AM   #5
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Here is some of my work. Did it all Solo


teach/help me do rotated set up on my rsti
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Old 04-03-2010, 10:47 AM   #6
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Dude I would so like to help you.... YOu have PM
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Old 03-22-2010, 12:08 PM   #7
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Nice!
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Old 03-22-2010, 02:09 PM   #8
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Old 03-22-2010, 11:00 PM   #9
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nice pulse function on your tig
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Old 03-23-2010, 11:37 AM   #10
Maverick7531
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Yea... really, Whoever did the welding did an amazing job - very consistant. Me likey!! ha.
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Old 03-23-2010, 02:14 PM   #11
Kenny AKA gmrsti
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yea, i dont pulse weld with my foot but the machine pulses 180 pps, it keeps the puddle inline very nicely. to be honest i dont even really pause while moving the torch and dipping. its all in the speed and feed buddy
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Old 07-31-2010, 12:20 AM   #12
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You sir, are awesome!

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Old 02-24-2012, 01:04 AM   #13
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Wowwwwwwwww speechlesssssssss!
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Old 03-22-2010, 02:26 PM   #14
SSvsTheWorld
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Some sexy stuff right there
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Old 03-22-2010, 10:26 PM   #15
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i came
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Old 03-23-2010, 05:02 PM   #16
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Pulse was designed strictly for penetration (thin material) and AC welding. It has nothing to do with puddle control. The angle of your torch, gas psi, size of cup, size of tungsten, high frequency start, and height of torch from work piece control puddle variance. But to be honest (Kenny AKA gmrsti) any noob can lay a bead like that in a grove where 2 metal thickness meet. Looks good, im not hating but the welding talk is just fun. 180pps you might as well just weld that mother in standard. gas to 25psi, 3/32 Thoriated Tungsten, sharp to a point with vertical grinding and 1/8 from collet body. your set to make a freaking rainbow. Your welds are almost hot enough that its burning the nickel content out of the stainless.
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Old 03-23-2010, 05:30 PM   #17
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haha pulse setting makes 100% difference in puddle control and stability on stainless, esp at higher pps. i weld .025 -.035 304 and 321 all day every day. 1/16 lanth. or ceriated tungsten/ gas lens #8 cup (or large pyrex champaign cup with trailing sheild) 30A 160-180pps hs @80-90% ls to 30-40%, gas @ 13 back purge at 4/ .045 filler. Plus i can assure no NOOB could weld what i weld, let alone pretty or unboiled i have had plenty of guys come and try tho. oh yea all welding done on a dynasty200
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Old 03-23-2010, 06:18 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PrecisionCustom View Post
Pulse was designed strictly for penetration (thin material) and AC welding. It has nothing to do with puddle control. The angle of your torch, gas psi, size of cup, size of tungsten, high frequency start, and height of torch from work piece control puddle variance. But to be honest (Kenny AKA gmrsti) any noob can lay a bead like that in a grove where 2 metal thickness meet. Looks good, im not hating but the welding talk is just fun. 180pps you might as well just weld that mother in standard. gas to 25psi, 3/32 Thoriated Tungsten, sharp to a point with vertical grinding and 1/8 from collet body. your set to make a freaking rainbow. Your welds are almost hot enough that its burning the nickel content out of the stainless.
hey, he can read a catalogue!
Pulse has EVERYTHING to do with how the puddle appears.
Ever hear of Pulse-on-pulse MIG? Pulsing wire transfer from globular to spray. It makes it look like a robotic TIG weld..
HF has NOTHING to do with Steel welding. NOTHING. It is a MUST for Al and nonFE metals, but it is pointless in a steel setting(besides starting arc)

And the discoloration when welding stainless is a BAD thing. It's funny how people recognize the bluing as a quality trait.
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Old 03-23-2010, 06:35 PM   #19
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ahh so true, the colors everyone loves so much are actually not the best. after consulting with miller on a couple projects i was lead on to hyd/arg mix gas which did do a much better job of keeping the final product silver just like the base metal. it was nice but extra money and a slower weld time made it impractical for production. Shiny silver welds are the key to welding like a pro. lowest possible heat for perfect penetration and bead height, and the right amount of cool time in the gas (by trailing sheild or ...)
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Old 03-23-2010, 09:23 PM   #20
PrecisionCustom
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eg33GC View Post
hey, he can read a catalogue!
Pulse has EVERYTHING to do with how the puddle appears.
Ever hear of Pulse-on-pulse MIG? Pulsing wire transfer from globular to spray. It makes it look like a robotic TIG weld..
HF has NOTHING to do with Steel welding. NOTHING. It is a MUST for Al and nonFE metals, but it is pointless in a steel setting(besides starting arc)

And the discoloration when welding stainless is a BAD thing. It's funny how people recognize the bluing as a quality trait.

LOL. Do u know what HF is. lol, I like how u say it has nothing...NOTHING to do with steel welding then say but the start. High freq is F-en huge when it comes to steel welding period. The amount of HF controls how wide or small your arc is. It also controls the arcs start-ability. And your pointless MIG welding talk is kinda lame. On your own level i guess. I bet Kenny is getting a little laugh on this. He actually knows what he is saying. Well im not trying to have a big dick contest here but I posted some work. The comment on the color of a weld is also incorrect. Stainless can tell you allot from its color. Lots of blue and purple is cold and most likely did not penetrate correctly. Ideal color for stainless (Pretty much any series) is gold or siliver. Gray or discolored completely is very bad. Porosity is present and the piece has become work hardened. Making it brittle and likely to crack. Pulse has nothing to do with puddle control or stability period. It controls the amount of amperage across the signal at any given rate. Stability is controlled through connections to the work piece, amount of space from work piece, environment your in, and a whole lot more variables but pulse.
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Old 03-25-2010, 04:33 PM   #21
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LOL. Do u know what HF is. lol, I like how u say it has nothing...NOTHING to do with steel welding then say but the start. High freq is F-en huge when it comes to steel welding period. The amount of HF controls how wide or small your arc is. It also controls the arcs start-ability. And your pointless MIG welding talk is kinda lame. On your own level i guess. I bet Kenny is getting a little laugh on this. He actually knows what he is saying. Well im not trying to have a big dick contest here but I posted some work. The comment on the color of a weld is also incorrect. Stainless can tell you allot from its color. Lots of blue and purple is cold and most likely did not penetrate correctly. Ideal color for stainless (Pretty much any series) is gold or siliver. Gray or discolored completely is very bad. Porosity is present and the piece has become work hardened. Making it brittle and likely to crack. Pulse has nothing to do with puddle control or stability period. It controls the amount of amperage across the signal at any given rate. Stability is controlled through connections to the work piece, amount of space from work piece, environment your in, and a whole lot more variables but pulse.
I recommend asking for a refund to the backwater 2 year tech you went to ( if at all)
HF only applies for Al, where the A/C needs it for stability. You must be mixing HF with arc force/pinch/?
Bead profile is 90% heat, 10% arc force setting/"pinch" setting ( or whatever your manufacturer calls it)

As far as backpurging goes, use it only for critical welds where you want maximum nominal flow. IE DIY headers won't really benefit unless youhave massive over penetration.
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Old 02-26-2012, 12:27 AM   #22
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Quote:
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LOL. Do u know what HF is. lol, I like how u say it has nothing...NOTHING to do with steel welding then say but the start. High freq is F-en huge when it comes to steel welding period. The amount of HF controls how wide or small your arc is. It also controls the arcs start-ability. And your pointless MIG welding talk is kinda lame. On your own level i guess. I bet Kenny is getting a little laugh on this. He actually knows what he is saying. Well im not trying to have a big dick contest here but I posted some work. The comment on the color of a weld is also incorrect. Stainless can tell you allot from its color. Lots of blue and purple is cold and most likely did not penetrate correctly. Ideal color for stainless (Pretty much any series) is gold or siliver. Gray or discolored completely is very bad. Porosity is present and the piece has become work hardened. Making it brittle and likely to crack. Pulse has nothing to do with puddle control or stability period. It controls the amount of amperage across the signal at any given rate. Stability is controlled through connections to the work piece, amount of space from work piece, environment your in, and a whole lot more variables but pulse.

He is correct. but ive always thought blue was from moving to slow/to much heat?
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Old 03-23-2010, 05:34 PM   #23
PrecisionCustom
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LOL.. Yesss. Talking the tech.. I like this guy ^
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Old 03-23-2010, 05:36 PM   #24
Kenny AKA gmrsti
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haha yea just had to throw it down haha i bet everyone else in this thread went wtf just happened
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Old 03-23-2010, 05:39 PM   #25
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lol wut





i wish i knew how to weld. not even good, but just know how to do it
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