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Old 02-01-2011, 05:51 PM   #1
txl146
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Default Crankshaft position sensor after 99k miles... picture

Spent 30 min. replacing crankshaft position sensor due to bogging/jerking problem.

Make sure to check your sensor.



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Old 02-01-2011, 05:57 PM   #2
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Mine went and I needed my car right away so dealer did it for $250 in one day. I knew I should have done it myself.
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Old 02-01-2011, 05:59 PM   #3
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Replacement sensor cost me $28 from advance auto part (made in Poland). I had to remove the alternator because I didn't have right tool to remove 10mm bolt without removing it.
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Old 02-01-2011, 06:06 PM   #4
Ernest
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I knew I got ripped, but it went when my other car was in the shop for something else. I had two cars down, so I just limped to the dealer and let them do it.

The crazy thing is the two days befor I was upstate in the lower adirondacks and searching for fishing spots on old logging trails and stuff. Thank god it did not go there, no cell service in the middle of nowhere would have sucked.
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Old 02-01-2011, 06:07 PM   #5
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did it throw a code?
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Old 02-01-2011, 06:30 PM   #6
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Surprisingly, it did not throw a code.

In comparison, crank position sensor w/ over 110k miles looked really clean on my Matrix.
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Old 02-02-2011, 11:07 AM   #7
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Update: bogging/jerking is gone.
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Old 02-02-2011, 11:13 AM   #8
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This is good to know. If you didnt have a CEL, what pointed you in this direction?
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Old 02-02-2011, 11:18 AM   #9
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My past experience with Crankshaft position sensor. Had similar bogging/jerking issue when sensor connection came off loose.
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Old 02-02-2011, 12:02 PM   #10
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just for my future reference, can you pin-point the sensor location. Tnx
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Old 02-02-2011, 12:12 PM   #11
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sure - it's located right under the alternator.
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Old 02-02-2011, 12:17 PM   #12
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what point did you have the bogging/jerking? was it in low rpm at tip in?
How did you determine it was your crank position sensor vs your IACV?
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Old 02-02-2011, 12:21 PM   #13
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I had recent completely disassembled IACV for cleaning, so I knew it cannot be IACV. Also, I had inspected many gaskets recently while troubleshooting vacuum leaks (exhaust manifold, uppipe, TMIC, turbo inlet, intake manifold, etc). Bogging/jerking could be felt randomly mostly at low RPM; I never beat on the car ever since car developed this problem.
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Old 03-19-2011, 11:51 AM   #14
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How difficult was it to get the actual sensor out? Mine seems to have quite a bit of resistance and I'm concerned about breaking it.
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Old 03-19-2011, 12:28 PM   #15
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Was that dirt on there magnetic?

The sensor is just a magnet and a coil of wire right?

When you say resistance... what does it read?
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Old 03-19-2011, 12:35 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rick-l
Was that dirt on there magnetic?

The sensor is just a magnet and a coil of wire right?

When you say resistance... what does it read?
I meant putting up resistance to removal. I can spin it around, but I can't pull it out.
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Old 03-19-2011, 12:46 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stikboy9 View Post
I meant putting up resistance to removal. I can spin it around, but I can't pull it out.
OK

I guess when you bust it up getting it out you can answer the other questions.
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Old 03-19-2011, 12:52 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rick-l

OK

I guess when you bust it up getting it out you can answer the other questions.
Thanks.


That's kinda what I'm trying to avoid. Should it be difficult to remove, or should it pop right out?
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Old 05-11-2011, 05:19 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stikboy9 View Post
I meant putting up resistance to removal. I can spin it around, but I can't pull it out.

stikboy, I have the same prob right now. Did u get it out eventually? How?
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Old 05-11-2011, 06:03 PM   #20
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Why is the end of it deformed like that? That is probably why it won't come out.
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Old 05-12-2011, 05:57 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gutless View Post
stikboy, I have the same prob right now. Did u get it out eventually? How?
Did you take out the bolt?
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Old 05-17-2011, 07:58 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gutless

stikboy, I have the same prob right now. Did u get it out eventually? How?
Nope. I had a limited amount of time to do a crap ton of stuff and haven't had a chance to mess with it since. I'll be revisiting it soon though. I'll post an update when I do.
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Old 04-19-2011, 09:20 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rick-l View Post
The sensor is just a magnet and a coil of wire right?

More or less, there are other parts also. But yes, there is a magnet.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hall_effect_sensor
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Old 04-19-2011, 10:11 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rkramer View Post
More or less, there are other parts also. But yes, there is a magnet.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hall_effect_sensor
A hall effect sensor would require 3 wires Power,Ground and Signal. The wiring diagram only shows two.

I think these are typically variable reluctance sensors.

A quick search: http://www.linnbenton.edu/auto/scope/vary_reluct/

Note the magnet to attract ferrous materials. Shavings just on the end should not afffect operation much however, just if it bridged g=from the tip to the side.
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Old 04-19-2011, 01:10 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rick-l View Post
A hall effect sensor would require 3 wires Power,Ground and Signal. The wiring diagram only shows two.

I think these are typically variable reluctance sensors.

A quick search: http://www.linnbenton.edu/auto/scope/vary_reluct/

Note the magnet to attract ferrous materials. Shavings just on the end should not afffect operation much however, just if it bridged g=from the tip to the side.
Actually any metal buildup on the end of the sensor can diminish the amplitude of the signal and with the stock ECU the threshold is preset. In short, any build up of ferrous material on a magnetic type sensor can effect its performance.
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