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Old 05-18-2011, 03:56 PM   #1
chet.wrb
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Default DIY Rear subframe lockdown bolts.

Ok, so this DIY is very simple, and not expensive. It makes a huge difference in how the car handles, and i haven't noticed any more road noise than before.

Parts List:
2 - M12x1.25 Bolts 50-60mm long (must be grade 8.8 or higher! I recomend 10.9 if you can find them.)
2 - 3/4" OD x 1/2" ID Bronze Flange Bearing

And here you have what your finished product should look like:




Now for the installment:
1: Make sure the threads in the capture nut are clean, if they have any rust on them, then you need to run an m12x1.25 tap through them to clean out any debris. ***(Skipping this step can cause huge headaches!!)*** Some people have also cleaned the threads with PB blaster and a small wire brush, or a pipe cleaning brush in a drill with PB blaster. WD-40 will also work a little bit, but PB blaster is 10x better. when the threads are clean, the bolt should thread in with almost no resistance.

2: Loosen all four subframe mounting bolts in order to let the bushings align correctly.

3: Apply anti seize to threads on the new subframe lock bolts. (a little dab should do it) Install one side bushing and bolt, but do not tighten up yet.

4: Install the other side and snug up the bolt. (To get the second one to line up, you might need to shift the subframe some. If the subframe is shifter to one side or the other, an alignment should be done following this install.)

5: Tighten all four of the original subrame mounting bolts.

6: Tighten up the two subframe lock bolts.

*More detailed instructions can be found on this post*
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1752267

And a couple pictures of them installed on my car:





Everyone should be able to do this, and it takes only a few minutes.
total cost for me was $9 for the hardware.

I hope this helps some people out.

Last edited by chet.wrb; 05-19-2011 at 05:57 PM.
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Old 05-18-2011, 04:15 PM   #2
Splinter888
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Thats pretty cool. Any increase in NVH? Or what your experience is so far?
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Old 05-18-2011, 04:21 PM   #3
chet.wrb
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The rear end is alot more connected to the car now, and like i said, i can't hear any more NVH than before. but i also have Group N motor and tranny mounts which added a little bit of NVH.

In my opinion, EVERYONE should do this little DIY.
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Old 05-18-2011, 04:36 PM   #4
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Very cool. Nice work.

Everyone should do this besides 04-05 sti owners. They don't need them.
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Old 05-18-2011, 04:39 PM   #5
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^^^ are these already in place on the 04/05 sti? I was gonna pick up kartboys version of these but may just go the DIY route
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Old 05-18-2011, 04:53 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boxer4u View Post
^^^ are these already in place on the 04/05 sti? I was gonna pick up kartboys version of these but may just go the DIY route
The 04-05 STI's have solid steel subframe mounts. All other Imprezas have rubber isolated mounts.
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Old 05-20-2011, 11:57 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kpluiten View Post
The 04-05 STI's have solid steel subframe mounts. All other Imprezas have rubber isolated mounts.
SWEET
you saved me some cash
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Old 05-18-2011, 05:09 PM   #8
kpluiten
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They can be swapped. I did it on my wagon.
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Old 05-18-2011, 04:39 PM   #9
chet.wrb
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yea, its nice because the hole is already there and threaded for you. it couldnt be any simpler.
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Old 05-18-2011, 04:57 PM   #10
chet.wrb
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Nice to know, kpluiten. i never knew that. i wonder if you can just take the rear subframe from an 04-05 sti and put it on any of the 02-05 WRX's..... but i guess theres no reason to because these bolts do almost the same thing.
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Old 05-18-2011, 05:16 PM   #11
Boxer4u
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kpluiten

The 04-05 STI's have solid steel subframe mounts. All other Imprezas have rubber isolated mounts.
07 sti has rubber mounts? I never really looked
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Old 05-18-2011, 05:26 PM   #12
kpluiten
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As far as I know. Take a look and let us know.
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Old 05-18-2011, 05:40 PM   #13
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I'm a fan, someone enlighten this noob on 02WRX fitment.
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Old 05-18-2011, 05:52 PM   #14
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Where did you get the bronze bearings?
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Old 05-18-2011, 06:11 PM   #15
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subscribed...you just saved me $25 good sir
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Old 05-18-2011, 06:44 PM   #16
chet.wrb
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I got the bronze bearings (or bushings if you want to call them that) at my local ACE hardware. They get them through servalite. And you can also get them through mcmaster.com
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Old 05-18-2011, 07:36 PM   #17
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pretty cool, i have kartboys from years ago, never notice the difference but then again i had the outrigger bushings
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Old 05-18-2011, 07:55 PM   #18
chet.wrb
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Yea, one big thing I just realized that I left out is that you need to make sure the threads are clean and run a tap through there first if there is any rust or corrosion in there. The bolts thread in tight, but they should not have to be forced at all. Not doing this can cause big headaches down the road... Seriously the raddleing of a broken capture nut will give you a headache... Haha
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Old 05-18-2011, 07:57 PM   #19
chet.wrb
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And they are grade 10.9 bolts. The equivalent of a grade 8 in standard. They should be plenty strong for this application.
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Old 05-18-2011, 08:39 PM   #20
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you dont quite understand the issue, here

lotsa d0000ds gonna snap off the captured nuts in the subframe tryin this.....lots and lots

and this is one of those things that is NOT easy to fix....but REAL-REAL easy to **** up because of rust in the threads of the captured nut....and once the captured nut snaps off...ya cant get the bolt out without dropping the subframe...even if ya cut the bolt head off....and then it will rattle

have fun
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Old 05-04-2012, 07:52 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Scotty View Post
you dont quite understand the issue, here

lotsa d0000ds gonna snap off the captured nuts in the subframe tryin this.....lots and lots

and this is one of those things that is NOT easy to fix....but REAL-REAL easy to **** up because of rust in the threads of the captured nut....and once the captured nut snaps off...ya cant get the bolt out without dropping the subframe...even if ya cut the bolt head off....and then it will rattle

have fun
^^^bsdoig, this is what probably happened to you. You have to be VERY VERY careful that the threads are clean and you can thread it in with your hand all the way before using a wrench.
Good luck.

Last edited by Bikelok; 05-04-2012 at 08:01 PM.
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Old 05-04-2012, 08:55 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bikelok View Post
^^^bsdoig, this is what probably happened to you. You have to be VERY VERY careful that the threads are clean and you can thread it in with your hand all the way before using a wrench.
Good luck.
No I don't think so…….I was able to pull he bolts right back out without any issues. Threads were tapped and clean. I could run the bolt by itself all the way through without any issues. It was like where the brass meets the subframe it was just collapsing and wouldn't get tight. I'm gonna leave them off for now since I didn't like the way they felt when tightening.

What are they suppose to be tightened to?
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Old 05-18-2011, 09:02 PM   #23
chet.wrb
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Its the same deal with any other brand name rear subframe lock bolts. Unless they happen to come with a tap to clean out the threads, but I'm pretty sure they don't. I thought it was pretty simple as far as if its not going in how it should, don't force it.

So everyone doing this, if you don't know how to clean out the threads first, don't do this DIY.
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Old 05-18-2011, 10:04 PM   #24
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^ or with aftermarket either, I don't think they come with taps, just the hardware
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Old 05-19-2011, 02:25 AM   #25
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They dont, if the dooooods mess up doing this they would have just done the same but spent more cash too get there. So if you buy the bling "whiteline, kartboy etc"you just spent more too get too the same point.

Folks always gotta make things sound like rocket science. lol

Props for thinking out of the box...
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