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Old 09-04-2011, 07:58 PM   #1
MattTHEpainter
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Question Auto Body/Paint Question and Answers

I thought it would be a good idea to start a single thread that people could ask any question about the Auto Body and Refinishing process. There are some very knowledgeable people on this forum, and this would be an easy way for all us experts to pool together and help anyone in need.

So go ahead and ask away!
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Old 09-04-2011, 08:46 PM   #2
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+1 goood idea...I had to go around searching different forums for information. Would have been nice to find it all in one place..
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Old 09-04-2011, 09:02 PM   #3
imprezaowner27
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I need detailed instructions with a supply list on how to sand, smooth, and get perfect a trunk that has had its holes welded shut. Go
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Old 09-04-2011, 10:24 PM   #4
MattTHEpainter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imprezaowner27 View Post
I need detailed instructions with a supply list on how to sand, smooth, and get perfect a trunk that has had its holes welded shut. Go
Supply List:
*1 quart body filler with activator (preferably rage gold or comparable product)
*Tube of glazing putty/"icing"
*Assortment of sand paper starting at 40 grit ranging to 400 (40,80,180,220,320,400)
*High build primer
*Sanding block
*DA sander (not necessary but will make job much easier)
*Filler Spreaders

Instructions:
I do not know if you have any prior knowledge when it comes to bodywork so I can only give you guidance and getting it "perfect" depends on the time you take and practice.

1. Were the welds ground flush? If so there is most likely some slight distortion in the metal. Try to get the metal as flush as possible prior to filling. Use a body hammer, or stud welder to do so. If the metal has any low spots that cannot be worked out, sand about a 5" diameter circle from the center of the welds to give you ample room to work. Sand with 80 grit on a DA. Any spot that you will be filling you want bare metal for the filler to adhere to. Do not heat the panel too much with the DA.

2. Mix the filler on a piece of sheet metal or cardboard. A good rule of thumb is put the amount of filler down, and then draw a line across the puddle with activator. Depending on conditions this could vary. Use a spreader to put down only as much filler that is needed over the holes. Let harden, and then begin to sand with 80 grit sandpaper on a block. Sand in a diagonal pattern // then \\ crisscrossing and creating an imaginary "X" over the work area. Do this until you level the filler with the surrounding metal. This will take some practice to get correct. A helpful trick is to apply a guide coat of black spray paint to see if there is any low spots or high spots in the filler.

3. Continue this process of applying filler and then smoothing, and after every coat go to a higher grade sandpaper. For such a small job like this you may only need one coat of filler before glaze. You could start with 180 grit depending on the condition of the metal after the welding.

4. Stop when you feel, with your hand, that the surface is level with the surrounding area and there is no bumps, or dimples. You will finish the filler with 400 grit before applying the glaze. Glaze is basically used to fill any fine scratches still left in the surrounding metal from sanding, or pin-holes that are in the filler. You will apply this extremely thin over the filler with a decent amount of pressure to fill any imperfections.

5. Let the glaze dry and sand with the same process as before, but not so much that you start to take off material from the filler below. You will see the glaze fill the scratches and pin-holes.

6. After this work you will get a good feel for sanding and should feather out the existing paint surrounding your area of repair. Use 400 to scuff existing paint.

7. Mask up for high build primer by back taping your work area and covering anything you do not wish to get primer on. Never apply primer to the edge of the tape or you will get a "hard edge".

8. Let primer dry and wet sand with 400/600 grit paper.

9. Send it to paint.

If you have any specific questions about this process (which I'm sure you will) just ask.

Where in NE are you located?

-Matt
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Old 09-05-2011, 12:37 AM   #5
imprezaowner27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MattTHEpainter View Post

If you have any specific questions about this process (which I'm sure you will) just ask.

Where in NE are you located?

-Matt
you are the man. Im in central MA (natick)
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Old 09-05-2011, 11:05 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imprezaowner27 View Post
you are the man. Im in central MA (natick)
Good luck with your project. If you are ever in CT let me know and I can give you a kinesthetic lesson in bodywork. We can probably have that trunk done in about an hour.
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Old 04-04-2012, 12:17 AM   #7
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Default i couldnt have said it any better if i tried

this is a guy who knows his autobody i give many props
Quote:
Originally Posted by MattTHEpainter View Post
Supply List:
*1 quart body filler with activator (preferably rage gold or comparable product)
*Tube of glazing putty/"icing"
*Assortment of sand paper starting at 40 grit ranging to 400 (40,80,180,220,320,400)
*High build primer
*Sanding block
*DA sander (not necessary but will make job much easier)
*Filler Spreaders

Instructions:
I do not know if you have any prior knowledge when it comes to bodywork so I can only give you guidance and getting it "perfect" depends on the time you take and practice.

1. Were the welds ground flush? If so there is most likely some slight distortion in the metal. Try to get the metal as flush as possible prior to filling. Use a body hammer, or stud welder to do so. If the metal has any low spots that cannot be worked out, sand about a 5" diameter circle from the center of the welds to give you ample room to work. Sand with 80 grit on a DA. Any spot that you will be filling you want bare metal for the filler to adhere to. Do not heat the panel too much with the DA.

2. Mix the filler on a piece of sheet metal or cardboard. A good rule of thumb is put the amount of filler down, and then draw a line across the puddle with activator. Depending on conditions this could vary. Use a spreader to put down only as much filler that is needed over the holes. Let harden, and then begin to sand with 80 grit sandpaper on a block. Sand in a diagonal pattern // then \\ crisscrossing and creating an imaginary "X" over the work area. Do this until you level the filler with the surrounding metal. This will take some practice to get correct. A helpful trick is to apply a guide coat of black spray paint to see if there is any low spots or high spots in the filler.

3. Continue this process of applying filler and then smoothing, and after every coat go to a higher grade sandpaper. For such a small job like this you may only need one coat of filler before glaze. You could start with 180 grit depending on the condition of the metal after the welding.

4. Stop when you feel, with your hand, that the surface is level with the surrounding area and there is no bumps, or dimples. You will finish the filler with 400 grit before applying the glaze. Glaze is basically used to fill any fine scratches still left in the surrounding metal from sanding, or pin-holes that are in the filler. You will apply this extremely thin over the filler with a decent amount of pressure to fill any imperfections.

5. Let the glaze dry and sand with the same process as before, but not so much that you start to take off material from the filler below. You will see the glaze fill the scratches and pin-holes.

6. After this work you will get a good feel for sanding and should feather out the existing paint surrounding your area of repair. Use 400 to scuff existing paint.

7. Mask up for high build primer by back taping your work area and covering anything you do not wish to get primer on. Never apply primer to the edge of the tape or you will get a "hard edge".

8. Let primer dry and wet sand with 400/600 grit paper.

9. Send it to paint.

If you have any specific questions about this process (which I'm sure you will) just ask.

Where in NE are you located?

-Matt
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Old 12-24-2013, 03:05 AM   #8
SteveDeChello
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Default Re: Auto Body/Paint Question and Answers

Quote:
Originally Posted by MattTHEpainter View Post
Supply List:
*1 quart body filler with activator (preferably rage gold or comparable product)
*Tube of glazing putty/"icing"
*Assortment of sand paper starting at 40 grit ranging to 400 (40,80,180,220,320,400)
*High build primer
*Sanding block
*DA sander (not necessary but will make job much easier)
*Filler Spreaders

Instructions:
I do not know if you have any prior knowledge when it comes to bodywork so I can only give you guidance and getting it "perfect" depends on the time you take and practice.

1. Were the welds ground flush? If so there is most likely some slight distortion in the metal. Try to get the metal as flush as possible prior to filling. Use a body hammer, or stud welder to do so. If the metal has any low spots that cannot be worked out, sand about a 5" diameter circle from the center of the welds to give you ample room to work. Sand with 80 grit on a DA. Any spot that you will be filling you want bare metal for the filler to adhere to. Do not heat the panel too much with the DA.

2. Mix the filler on a piece of sheet metal or cardboard. A good rule of thumb is put the amount of filler down, and then draw a line across the puddle with activator. Depending on conditions this could vary. Use a spreader to put down only as much filler that is needed over the holes. Let harden, and then begin to sand with 80 grit sandpaper on a block. Sand in a diagonal pattern // then \\ crisscrossing and creating an imaginary "X" over the work area. Do this until you level the filler with the surrounding metal. This will take some practice to get correct. A helpful trick is to apply a guide coat of black spray paint to see if there is any low spots or high spots in the filler.

3. Continue this process of applying filler and then smoothing, and after every coat go to a higher grade sandpaper. For such a small job like this you may only need one coat of filler before glaze. You could start with 180 grit depending on the condition of the metal after the welding.

4. Stop when you feel, with your hand, that the surface is level with the surrounding area and there is no bumps, or dimples. You will finish the filler with 400 grit before applying the glaze. Glaze is basically used to fill any fine scratches still left in the surrounding metal from sanding, or pin-holes that are in the filler. You will apply this extremely thin over the filler with a decent amount of pressure to fill any imperfections.

5. Let the glaze dry and sand with the same process as before, but not so much that you start to take off material from the filler below. You will see the glaze fill the scratches and pin-holes.

6. After this work you will get a good feel for sanding and should feather out the existing paint surrounding your area of repair. Use 400 to scuff existing paint.

7. Mask up for high build primer by back taping your work area and covering anything you do not wish to get primer on. Never apply primer to the edge of the tape or you will get a "hard edge".

8. Let primer dry and wet sand with 400/600 grit paper.

9. Send it to paint.

If you have any specific questions about this process (which I'm sure you will) just ask.

Where in NE are you located?

-Matt

Thanks a lot for your Guidance .They are really helpful in my work.I am owner of Marlow auto body shop.We offer a wide range of a offers wide range of auto body services including collision repair, car painting, body work, dent removal, hail repair, scratch removal, custom painting, etc. And i really appreciate these type of forums that help me in my work
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Old 05-06-2014, 02:43 PM   #9
alucard7755
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by MattTHEpainter View Post
Supply List:
*1 quart body filler with activator (preferably rage gold or comparable product)
*Tube of glazing putty/"icing"
*Assortment of sand paper starting at 40 grit ranging to 400 (40,80,180,220,320,400)
*High build primer
*Sanding block
*DA sander (not necessary but will make job much easier)
*Filler Spreaders

Instructions:
I do not know if you have any prior knowledge when it comes to bodywork so I can only give you guidance and getting it "perfect" depends on the time you take and practice.

1. Were the welds ground flush? If so there is most likely some slight distortion in the metal. Try to get the metal as flush as possible prior to filling. Use a body hammer, or stud welder to do so. If the metal has any low spots that cannot be worked out, sand about a 5" diameter circle from the center of the welds to give you ample room to work. Sand with 80 grit on a DA. Any spot that you will be filling you want bare metal for the filler to adhere to. Do not heat the panel too much with the DA.

2. Mix the filler on a piece of sheet metal or cardboard. A good rule of thumb is put the amount of filler down, and then draw a line across the puddle with activator. Depending on conditions this could vary. Use a spreader to put down only as much filler that is needed over the holes. Let harden, and then begin to sand with 80 grit sandpaper on a block. Sand in a diagonal pattern // then \\ crisscrossing and creating an imaginary "X" over the work area. Do this until you level the filler with the surrounding metal. This will take some practice to get correct. A helpful trick is to apply a guide coat of black spray paint to see if there is any low spots or high spots in the filler.

3. Continue this process of applying filler and then smoothing, and after every coat go to a higher grade sandpaper. For such a small job like this you may only need one coat of filler before glaze. You could start with 180 grit depending on the condition of the metal after the welding.

4. Stop when you feel, with your hand, that the surface is level with the surrounding area and there is no bumps, or dimples. You will finish the filler with 400 grit before applying the glaze. Glaze is basically used to fill any fine scratches still left in the surrounding metal from sanding, or pin-holes that are in the filler. You will apply this extremely thin over the filler with a decent amount of pressure to fill any imperfections.

5. Let the glaze dry and sand with the same process as before, but not so much that you start to take off material from the filler below. You will see the glaze fill the scratches and pin-holes.

6. After this work you will get a good feel for sanding and should feather out the existing paint surrounding your area of repair. Use 400 to scuff existing paint.

7. Mask up for high build primer by back taping your work area and covering anything you do not wish to get primer on. Never apply primer to the edge of the tape or you will get a "hard edge".

8. Let primer dry and wet sand with 400/600 grit paper.

9. Send it to paint.

-Matt
I was in a minor collision yesterday, and it's got my brain going with some ideas of how to turn this mess into something cool. Could I in theory, use this process to fill in the part behind the license plate molding on the front bumper cover, and then sand down the molding to make a smooth bumper?

The part circled in red is what I want to try and sand down:



My ouchies....

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Old 09-20-2011, 06:47 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imprezaowner27 View Post
I need detailed instructions with a supply list on how to sand, smooth, and get perfect a trunk that has had its holes welded shut. Go
Do you already have the trunk welded shut? If so, power pad sander and work it slowly flat. If they didn't tap the holes down before they welded them then you'll have to get a flat tube of metal to bang it down, then add body filler to build it back up. It will probably take a few times. Did my trunk and it took three times to get it perfect.
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Old 10-05-2011, 01:41 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imprezaowner27 View Post
I need detailed instructions with a supply list on how to sand, smooth, and get perfect a trunk that has had its holes welded shut. Go
You'll need to post pictures for the holes to get good information back.
Normally you'll need to sand about 1-3inches around the area in question, use something like 150grit to rough the steel up real nice.

Wipe all dust away with an alcohol pad or other solvent that WONT remove paint\clearcoat.

Body filler, I prefer the 2 chemical compound type so that you can control curing times. Thin layers with curing between applications is key to get it to not crack and flake off.

Sand rough edges down with 150grit, then move to 400 grit until smooth!
Primer the area with 2 coats allowing the primer to 'degloss' between coats. Sand again with 400grit until its flush with the surrounding paint.

Apply your first coat of color, wait until de-glossed, another coat of color.
Wet sand with 1500 grit until smooth with surrounding paint, apply clear coat (tricky part right here) cause if it runs you're in trouble.
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Old 09-04-2011, 09:57 PM   #12
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great idea, looking forward to see how this plays out..
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Old 09-04-2011, 10:15 PM   #13
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I got four cans of the grimmspeed wrb spray paint. Im planning on painting a new hood and possibly redoing the front bumper. The bumper has paint chips out of it. Should i sand down real far around them of fill the chips with somthing?
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Old 09-04-2011, 10:29 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zellner View Post
I got four cans of the grimmspeed wrb spray paint. Im planning on painting a new hood and possibly redoing the front bumper. The bumper has paint chips out of it. Should i sand down real far around them of fill the chips with somthing?
I wouldn't recommend spray painting such a large area, but best of luck if you are looking to tackle the project by yourself!

To answer your question; I would fill the chips with a glazing putty and then sand flush/ prime. Sanding out a lot of chips could turn your bumper wavy, unless you planned on sanding the entire chipped area back to e-coat (factory primer).
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Old 09-04-2011, 10:19 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zellner
I got four cans of the grimmspeed wrb spray paint. Im planning on painting a new hood and possibly redoing the front bumper. The bumper has paint chips out of it. Should i sand down real far around them of fill the chips with somthing?
dude
That hood will NEVER look quite right

Take your car to Spray-Glo in Duluth off of Buford Highway. Tell them I sent you. It will not set you back much.
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Old 09-20-2011, 06:51 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XanRules View Post
dude
That hood will NEVER look quite right

Take your car to Spray-Glo in Duluth off of Buford Highway. Tell them I sent you. It will not set you back much.
Not true, a person who knows what they're doing can make a rattlecan look better than a noob with a spraygun. However, since he is asking the question should he sand it all down, then chance are it probably would not come out right.


As a note, the best way to paint and make it really nice is to strip all the paint off the object be it wheels, car parts etc, (using paint remover like Aircraft remover) then start from scratch, you will never be able to fill in chips with more paint.
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Old 09-05-2011, 12:48 AM   #17
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Along with the advice from above, for a trunk If you have a compressor I would look into a LVLP gun (Astro Evo 4014 for example) that uses very little air volume and pressure and is well suited for small panels. They are not expensive and can be sold rather easily after you finish with it. Thats if you dont already have a gun/compressor combo
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Old 09-05-2011, 12:55 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SPOOLN View Post
Along with the advice from above, for a trunk If you have a compressor I would look into a LVLP gun (Astro Evo 4014 for example) that uses very little air volume and pressure and is well suited for small panels. They are not expensive and can be sold rather easily after you finish with it. Thats if you dont already have a gun/compressor combo
I have nothing, this is the first piece of bodywork i will ever attempt...and as far as time goes...I have until May of 2012 to get this done...my car has a trunk on it now...
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Old 09-05-2011, 01:28 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SPOOLN View Post
Along with the advice from above, for a trunk If you have a compressor I would look into a LVLP gun (Astro Evo 4014 for example) that uses very little air volume and pressure and is well suited for small panels. They are not expensive and can be sold rather easily after you finish with it. Thats if you dont already have a gun/compressor combo
you mean HVLP... High volume LOw perssure.... max output... min input.

Harbor Freight ir www.eastwood.com if you plan to spray more than once.

as for instructions so far... Mattthepainter has this one all under control.

Rob
<home painter, street rod/muscle car builder who knows when to turn the paint over to a pro>
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Old 09-05-2011, 10:51 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TXwrxWagon View Post
you mean HVLP... High volume LOw perssure.... max output... min input.
LVLP= low volume low pressure. Ideal for small panels or the do it yourself painter. Uses a lot less CFMs, so a smaller less expensive compressor can work.
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Old 09-05-2011, 03:30 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MattTHEpainter View Post
LVLP= low volume low pressure. Ideal for small panels or the do it yourself painter. Uses a lot less CFMs, so a smaller less expensive compressor can work.
well.... I learned something today... color me

Rob
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Old 09-05-2011, 02:10 PM   #22
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It is up to you on what you are willing to spend on the project, if you want to buy some tools or do some of the prep it all depends. Preping the project will save you money in the long run. Will the shop warranty the work if they didnt do the prep is up to them. If you are willing to learn and give it a try, it will reward you in the end knowing you did the work.

Matthhepainter is giving you a good base to start off, up to you if you want to use it.


Quote:
Originally Posted by imprezaowner27 View Post
I have nothing, this is the first piece of bodywork i will ever attempt...and as far as time goes...I have until May of 2012 to get this done...my car has a trunk on it now...
You might want to google LVLP-HVLP-RP-etc. Since you know so much try to share the correct information.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TXwrxWagon View Post
you mean HVLP... High volume LOw perssure.... max output... min input.

Harbor Freight ir www.eastwood.com if you plan to spray more than once.

as for instructions so far... Mattthepainter has this one all under control.

Rob
<home painter, street rod/muscle car builder who knows when to turn the paint over to a pro>
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Old 09-05-2011, 03:37 PM   #23
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Quote:
You might want to google LVLP-HVLP-RP-etc. Since you know so much try to share the correct information.
Is LVLP for solvent or water based or both... never new it existed... would have saved some time, materials and the indirect high painting in my garage... Who knew... Like I said... learned something new today...

the "Since you know so much" comment.... MEH... just offering an opinion... even closed it with saying I know when to turn it over to a pro...

Rob
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Old 09-05-2011, 04:08 PM   #24
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Water base has the issue of to put briefly of how it "dries". Needs ventilation to be different.(will put on flame suit for not properly describing water based) I understand you were "offering" your opinion, but you also put your "resume" at the bottom to show I guess you knew what you were talking about. In which you had not learned of LVLP yet. LVLP's are great for home shops as it does not require that 80g tank with psi# at certaing cfm. It requires much less I have seen them go as low as 2.? something at some point. The original poster stated there are many people on this board that understand paint/body and are willing to help others. I understand you meant to correct me. Hey it happens, NO ONE knows everything.

I was just giving advise on a possible course of action for the guy that just wanted to paint a single panel. Which I thought LVLP would be a great idea for.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TXwrxWagon View Post
Is LVLP for solvent or water based or both... never new it existed... would have saved some time, materials and the indirect high painting in my garage... Who knew... Like I said... learned something new today...

the "Since you know so much" comment.... MEH... just offering an opinion... even closed it with saying I know when to turn it over to a pro...

Rob
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Old 09-05-2011, 12:53 AM   #25
Jonnyfilmboy
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Location: IL
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1988 Fiero GT - black

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I'm in the northern suburbs of Chicago and I need to get my mirror caps painted. Anyone know a good place to get something small like that painted around my area? Or should I ask in the local forums? Also, how much would something small like this cost? I don't want to do it myself because I hate painting things. Hate it like I hate doing laundry.
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