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Old 09-14-2011, 08:10 PM   #1
clays_obs
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Outback Sport Badge Mark After Debadging

I did a full debadging on my GF, and the subaru badge on the hatch still left a white outline. After using adhesive remover and a clay bar, I tried gel sanding, and it's still pretty clear. I was wondering if anyone had any products that they think would get rid of it. I feel like I've tried everything and have been thinking about just doing the GF/GC WRX decal on the hatch to take the attention away. Any suggestions???
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Old 09-14-2011, 08:20 PM   #2
02subiewrxvt
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what year? 02-03? if so this is very common, it is ghosting from the badges being on the car so long in sunlight that the paint has faded, nothing you can really do about it... i had the same problem on my 02 after a while it wasent that noticeable i felt
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Old 09-14-2011, 08:21 PM   #3
tstevensWrX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clays_obs View Post
I did a full debadging on my GF, and the subaru badge on the hatch still left a white outline. After using adhesive remover and a clay bar, I tried gel sanding, and it's still pretty clear. I was wondering if anyone had any products that they think would get rid of it. I feel like I've tried everything and have been thinking about just doing the GF/GC WRX decal on the hatch to take the attention away. Any suggestions???

I have the same exact issue on my GD, would be awesome to find a solution. I've used a buffer, 3M Rubbing Compound, Rubbing Alcohol, Clay Bar, Turtle Wax polish and it still is on there. I was told it may be the clear coat and quite possibly have to try and wet sand it or repaint. If you find a solution let me know, would love to try it
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Old 09-14-2011, 08:51 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by tstevensWrX View Post
I have the same exact issue on my GD, would be awesome to find a solution. I've used a buffer, 3M Rubbing Compound, Rubbing Alcohol, Clay Bar, Turtle Wax polish and it still is on there. I was told it may be the clear coat and quite possibly have to try and wet sand it or repaint. If you find a solution let me know, would love to try it
Try gel sanding with any kind of circular/rotary polisher. It got most off but i think I'll just have to repaint eventually.
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Old 09-14-2011, 10:13 PM   #5
Kean
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The painted surfaces around emblems are typically hard to get at and are therefore easily neglected. “De-badging” reveals the flaws in these areas and will typically result in a crisp, visible border where the emblem once was (especially on older applications). ....appearing like the paint has faded. This is usually the case and using a compound/polish to thoroughly and completely correct the affected area will typically result in an even finish. ....at least in my experience.
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Old 02-04-2012, 02:58 PM   #6
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a rubbing compound will NOT work for this. for me the only thing that worked was sliding a razor over the lines. because what we are talking about isn't the paint being faded but just being able to see the outline of the badges. i gently slid a razor over the lines and it scraped off although this is dangerous so i only did one line then stopped. im just gonna rebadge until i have money for paint and shaving the keyhole.
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Old 02-04-2012, 04:03 PM   #7
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If compond doesnt take it off... then sanding is probably the best thing to do... but i doubt anyone would want to sand their car just because of that reason.... (Not worth it)

But compound is suppose to remove the clear coat and everything else on top of the base... so if that doesnt work... the badages must have been on the car a long a$$ time
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Old 03-14-2012, 03:40 PM   #8
kashmycek
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Same thing happened to me.. I used scratch remover and it came off right away.
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Old 03-16-2012, 06:01 PM   #9
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crystaltek makes a product called ghost off which you can try
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Old 03-23-2012, 12:41 AM   #10
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I wouldn't really trust any "scratch-remover" or filler or any other liquid product. The only real way to get out these marks would be to buff it out using a two stage polish. If you use a super intensive polish compound, then it will remove the clear coat slightly and even the paint. It should take it right out. You could go to pretty much any detail/body shop, and they would probably be able to take it right out with a quick polish and wax of that area. At the shop I work at, for that process, I'd probably charge around $15 as it would only take about 10 minutes or so.
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Old 03-23-2012, 01:51 AM   #11
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I used a cleaner wax and it became a lot better..
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Old 03-23-2012, 02:52 AM   #12
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clay bar
buff
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Old 03-23-2012, 12:14 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 07STifastashell
I wouldn't really trust any "scratch-remover" or filler or any other liquid product. The only real way to get out these marks would be to buff it out using a two stage polish. If you use a super intensive polish compound, then it will remove the clear coat slightly and even the paint. It should take it right out. You could go to pretty much any detail/body shop, and they would probably be able to take it right out with a quick polish and wax of that area. At the shop I work at, for that process, I'd probably charge around $15 as it would only take about 10 minutes or so.
A vast majority of today's polishes and compounds are in Liquid form. Your advice slightly conflicts, when you say liquid products wont work in this situation. The term "scratch remover" is generally a marketing term for a mild abrasive (in some cases light abrasives with fillers) polishes to make it easier for consumers to understand what they are looking at.

I see in another of your posts you state you work in a "high end" shop, so I will assume you know what your talkimg about and chalk this up to a proof reading error. Alot of people aren't really in the know, so when you explain things take that into consideration. If you offer conflicting or unclear advice it leads people to do some "interesting" stuff...and they blame it on you, which I'm sure you have dealt with in a shop environment.
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Old 03-23-2012, 12:25 PM   #14
Kean
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....Im also curious about these so called "super intensive polish compounds" on the market.


....I'll wager he's talking about Menzerna PO85RD (aka Super Intensive Polish) which he must be using in his shop.
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Old 03-23-2012, 12:27 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NMZ_WRX
clay bar
buff
/thread
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Old 03-23-2012, 12:29 PM   #16
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its probably due to the paint at that spot wearing in differently compared to the rest of the pain on the car. if that is the case, no chemical stripper or buffing or wax will fix the issue. You can't fix un faded paint. But if the issue is within the clear coat, you could try 2000+ wet sanding or buffing compound or polishing compound. Try out the cheap turtle wax buffing compound (red in color i believe) then move on to the green polishing compound (white paste i believe).
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Old 03-23-2012, 03:02 PM   #17
07STifastashell
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kean
....Im also curious about these so called "super intensive polish compounds" on the market.

....I'll wager he's talking about Menzerna PO85RD (aka Super Intensive Polish) which he must be using in his shop.
You sir, are correct. And to the other guy who said Polish is a liquid...it's more like a paste. I meant any liquid filler that one might see being marketed as a quick fix. As in there are no ways to fill this, a layer must be slightly removed to remove this badge mark.
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Old 03-23-2012, 04:10 PM   #18
AspenScoob255
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kean
....Im also curious about these so called "super intensive polish compounds" on the market.

....I'll wager he's talking about Menzerna PO85RD (aka Super Intensive Polish) which he must be using in his shop.
Thats what I figured


Quote:
Originally Posted by 07STifastashell

You sir, are correct. And to the other guy who said Polish is a liquid...it's more like a paste. I meant any liquid filler that one might see being marketed as a quick fix. As in there are no ways to fill this, a layer must be slightly removed to remove this badge mark.
Yep...that was me (the other guy). I'm not going to argue consistency with you, I was trying to eliminate confusion. For example, liquid vs paste wax, the "liquid" version isn't watery but it is of thinner consistency compared to the paste. Hence, the term "liquid", as there are paste compound and polishes out there; or whatever it is turtle wax labels them as.

I made this clear in my initial post, just trying to eliminate confusion (for others). Not trying to discount any of your advice, as I am assuming you didn't read my whole post and took my first sentence as a slight. Mostly my fault I suppose, improper post organization and all. Even after I just said something about proof reading....

Last edited by AspenScoob255; 03-23-2012 at 04:16 PM.
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Old 03-23-2012, 05:07 PM   #19
Kean
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 07STifastashell
You sir, are correct. And to the other guy who said Polish is a liquid...it's more like a paste. I meant any liquid filler that one might see being marketed as a quick fix. As in there are no ways to fill this, a layer must be slightly removed to remove this badge mark.
While detailing terminology is not standardized in the industry, most polishes folks will relate to are those in bottles that are in liquid form. When someone says "paste", it usually refers to products in tubs/cans like Mothers Aluminum and Mag Polish or those old ones we remember from TW as Aspen explained. In reality, the point isn't the state of the packaged product but more about individual characteristics. Generalizing leads to confusion on these topics IME.

....btw, here are just a few "polishes" in liquid form that I happen to have in my own cabinets that do "correct" blemishes (abrade):

Meguiars UC, Meguiars Swirl-X, Meguiars Scratch-X, M105, M205, Optimum Polish II, Optimum Compound II, polishes from 3M's Finesse It and Perfect It lines, etc., etc.
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Old 03-23-2012, 05:32 PM   #20
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^^^There it is....that's what I was trying to say.

Your so much better at explaining than me .
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Old 03-23-2012, 05:44 PM   #21
07STifastashell
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Sorry I'm on nasioc app just kind of skimming posts here. Agreed..
There are liquid polishes and more paste-like polishes...just describing constituency of the product with my word choice. Thanks for the clarification for others.
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Old 03-23-2012, 11:07 PM   #22
nasiocanuck
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i just did this yesterday on my 03. i used goof-off and then a orbital polisher with a quality wax about 3 times and it looks perfect!
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Old 04-09-2012, 10:16 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crotchbuffet
a rubbing compound will NOT work for this. for me the only thing that worked was sliding a razor over the lines. because what we are talking about isn't the paint being faded but just being able to see the outline of the badges. i gently slid a razor over the lines and it scraped off although this is dangerous so i only did one line then stopped. im just gonna rebadge until i have money for paint and shaving the keyhole.
Razor will work but make sure they r stainless will really reduce chances of scratching the paint. Any other type will most likely scratch the paint
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Old 04-10-2012, 12:15 AM   #24
methodically
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If you have polished the area(s) and still have the issue, I wouldn't risk taking anymore paint off. It's possible that the sun will take out SOME of darker area that has been covered. It will take some time though and likely more than you will want. Polish the area and try to fan out 6-8 inches around where the darker area is and see how that goes. If not.. i'm not sure what to tell you.

I had this problem with my Z and it took quite a few times with the buffer to get MOST of it, but you could still faintly see it if you looked hard enough. Then again, I wound up getting Nissan to repaint all of the plastic since it's almost always at least 1 shade off of the rest of the car due to the properties of plastic painting vs. steel or aluminum.
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Old 04-14-2012, 08:51 PM   #25
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To the OP, what color is your car? There are a variety of things you can try. Many have actually been posted and they are good recommendations. If you haven't tried this yet, get an orbital buffer with a good compound, buff that on around 1000-1200rpms. Then wipe off the residue, and come back with either a really good polish or a wax designed to bring back and enhance color. Use your buffer again at 1800rpms, but use a small amount of pressure on the paint. Basically rest the buffer on the paint and let it do all the work. This should take care of your problems.
You can pm for better directions if you like
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