Welcome to the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club Friday April 18, 2014
Home Forums WikiNASIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage
NASIOC
Here you can view your subscribed threads, work with private messages and edit your profile and preferences Home Registration is free! Visit the NASIOC Store NASIOC Rules Search Find other members Frequently Asked Questions Calendar Archive NASIOC Upgrade Garage Logout
Go Back   NASIOC > NASIOC General > Car Audio, Video & Security

Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!
Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 04-23-2012, 10:06 PM   #1
markesc
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 164875
Join Date: Nov 2007
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Tualatin
Vehicle:
2007 WRXTR blouch20G
SWP

Default Amp Fuse Block Kit Underhood

So I've gone through two of these crappy stinger kits. I'm talking specifically just about the fuse block / fuse holder. If you look, it's zip tied to the a/c hose? by the battery...



In one case the plastic part that screws on just melted, fell apart, disintegrated, which resulted eventually in a blown fuse. This one lasted about 24 months.

The next one lasted about 12 months, prettymuch the same issue, but this time the fuse didn't blow. Strangely enough, if you were holding a fuse, imagine the metal part just becoming disconnected from the glass.

I'm thinking this might be a heat related issue and I need to relocate where the fuse block is located. This was originally installed by "stereo king," and it's actually the first time out of 6 cars I've ever had someone install a stereo. I guess the older I get the less time I have, so I figured I'd pay someone else to install the stuff.

Can anyone recommend a fuse block that won't melt/change shape/or be temp sensitive, and a convenient place it can be located within close proximity to the battery?

I don't care what it costs, I just want it to stand up to the heat, and I want to be done with replacing this damn thing every 12-24 months once and for all.

Fuse blocks only, but if I must get another "amp kit" please let me know.

Last edited by markesc; 04-23-2012 at 10:14 PM.
markesc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-23-2012, 10:16 PM   #2
djinn
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 212818
Join Date: May 2009
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: Brooklyn
Vehicle:
2010 Impreza 2.5i
Satin White Pearl

Default

Where do you have the fuse block located? I doubt it is due to heat. Sounds more like bad install.

What type of system is it?
Type of amplifiers used?
Power through out the whole system?
size of wires? gauge?
djinn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-23-2012, 10:24 PM   #3
markesc
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 164875
Join Date: Nov 2007
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Tualatin
Vehicle:
2007 WRXTR blouch20G
SWP

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by djinn View Post
Where do you have the fuse block located? I doubt it is due to heat. Sounds more like bad install.

What type of system is it?
Type of amplifiers used?
Power through out the whole system?
size of wires? gauge?
Well I added a photo....

I have a simple 4 channel kenwood amp. It's running two channels to the front separates, and two channels to the rear 10" kicker subs. No idea on the amp wattage...it wasn't the cheapest from '09 or the most expensive either.

Sadly, I rarely even listen to anything loud, usually just podcasts of carolla ranting.

This is a first for me. If I could do it over again, I would just have the fuse holder closer to the amp in the car. Never ever had this issue in the past.

I think it might be a combo of heat/me cleaning the motor area/and the wire being preloaded with some tension before it goes into the firewall?

Isn't there just a SOLID all metal kickass fuse block I can use?
markesc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-23-2012, 10:35 PM   #4
djinn
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 212818
Join Date: May 2009
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: Brooklyn
Vehicle:
2010 Impreza 2.5i
Satin White Pearl

Default

The only way I can think of it melting like that is having a high current load with small wiring or having a short.

So all your powering is front speakers and (2) 10" subwoofers? Do you know exactly what model the amp is and the size of wiring.

The picture is unclear of the size of wiring. Does the ends of the wires (from battery side and from amp side) look burnt/melted?
djinn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-23-2012, 10:42 PM   #5
markesc
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 164875
Join Date: Nov 2007
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Tualatin
Vehicle:
2007 WRXTR blouch20G
SWP

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by djinn View Post
The only way I can think of it melting like that is having a high current load with small wiring or having a short.

So all your powering is front speakers and (2) 10" subwoofers? Do you know exactly what model the amp is and the size of wiring.

The picture is unclear of the size of wiring. Does the ends of the wires (from battery side and from amp side) look burnt/melted?
I wish it were that simple: So they used some INSANE large sized wire that's actually too large to fit into the fuse holder thing. I didn't notice this til I twisted it and tried to make it fit, no luck. So, rather than buy new wire, rerun it all, I just took a smallllll amount off of it. I'm guessing it's a 0/1 gauge? I cannot imagine a larger wire being used.

Anyways, I'm willing to just start over, buy a new amp, wire kit, and go from there. This is a first for me as I've never had a problem with fuses. This is also the first car I've had where the amp was just drilled into the floor below the drivers seat. I've also had some horrid ground loop noise, but the kenwood must have a built in filter to eliminate most of this after the system is on for about 10 seconds.

Stereo "king" laugh, also used some cheapy RCA's to reach to the amp. So who knows.

I guess I should have just installed the stuff myself.
markesc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-24-2012, 04:31 AM   #6
djinn
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 212818
Join Date: May 2009
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: Brooklyn
Vehicle:
2010 Impreza 2.5i
Satin White Pearl

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by markesc View Post
I wish it were that simple: So they used some INSANE large sized wire that's actually too large to fit into the fuse holder thing. I didn't notice this til I twisted it and tried to make it fit, no luck. So, rather than buy new wire, rerun it all, I just took a smallllll amount off of it. I'm guessing it's a 0/1 gauge? I cannot imagine a larger wire being used.

Anyways, I'm willing to just start over, buy a new amp, wire kit, and go from there. This is a first for me as I've never had a problem with fuses. This is also the first car I've had where the amp was just drilled into the floor below the drivers seat. I've also had some horrid ground loop noise, but the kenwood must have a built in filter to eliminate most of this after the system is on for about 10 seconds.

Stereo "king" laugh, also used some cheapy RCA's to reach to the amp. So who knows.

I guess I should have just installed the stuff myself.
So your amp is drilled directly to the floor under the seat? You do know that the amp body itself can cause it to ground, which could cause the ground loop / engine whine. I would at least put something under it to prop it up from the floor.

Also the extra strands can cause arcing like the other member has stated. Try to reduce the amounts of strands sticking by snipping it. Obviously before you do this disconnect your neg terminal.

As for the fuse holder, if you want something large enough to fit the wire get a fuse holder that can accommodate 0/1 gauge.
djinn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-23-2012, 11:02 PM   #7
big_mac127
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 315999
Join Date: Apr 2012
Default

I would just go to your local stereo shop and buy a fuse holder with the proper size terminals for the word you have. The over heating / melting is most likely a result of arcing from the stray wires sticking out of the terminals.

P.S. you never want to locate the fuse holder close to the amp. The distance between the battery and the fuse shouldn't be more than 6-8 inches. If a short occurs, the heat from the current will happen between the battery and the fuse until the fuse blows.
big_mac127 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-23-2012, 11:03 PM   #8
big_mac127
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 315999
Join Date: Apr 2012
Default

WIRE** you have
big_mac127 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-23-2012, 11:39 PM   #9
markesc
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 164875
Join Date: Nov 2007
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Tualatin
Vehicle:
2007 WRXTR blouch20G
SWP

Default

So, cost no object, who has the BEST damn fuse holder that isn't made of plastic that money can buy?
markesc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-24-2012, 07:08 AM   #10
speakerpimp
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 241673
Join Date: Mar 2010
Chapter/Region: TXIC
Location: Houston
Vehicle:
2011 WRX
Spark Silver

Default

You need a voltage dip test. Everything that's going on could all be from the same problem but only a digital multimeter would be able to tell you.

You can look at a connection and tell if it's blatantly bad, but can you tell by looking if it's good enough???? NO you cannot, you have to check for voltage dips with a meter. That will tell you what's wrong.
speakerpimp is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-24-2012, 08:50 PM   #11
sizemic1
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 270669
Join Date: Jan 2011
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: Temecula, CA
Vehicle:
2011 WRX Sedan
Stg 2 Phatbotti e-tuned

Default

You could also go the 12v circuit breaker route too.
sizemic1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-24-2012, 09:31 PM   #12
blessthekellen
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 273859
Join Date: Feb 2011
Chapter/Region: W. Canada
Location: Alberta.
Vehicle:
MY98
WRX

Default

I have never had a plastic fuse holder melt on me.

There is something wrong with the system installed. You are getting a short.
What should happen is when the short happens the fuse should pop, it isn't. So the fuse holder is melting instead. Check for pinched power wire, and make sure one of the screws holding the amp down to the floor isn't touching the power wire. Use grommets to elevate the amp slightly so that the wire isn't pinched under the amp.
blessthekellen is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2012, 09:02 AM   #13
Aaron'z 2.5RS
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 1026
Join Date: Mar 2000
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Hickigan
Vehicle:
'00 RS/WRX Stg5
'98 RS Stock

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by blessthekellen View Post
I have never had a plastic fuse holder melt on me.

There is something wrong with the system installed. You are getting a short.
What should happen is when the short happens the fuse should pop, it isn't. So the fuse holder is melting instead. Check for pinched power wire, and make sure one of the screws holding the amp down to the floor isn't touching the power wire. Use grommets to elevate the amp slightly so that the wire isn't pinched under the amp.
There's nothing wrong with his system, besides poor connection around the fuse..

I've seen 10-12 melted AGU fuse holders over the years... it's BY FAR the worst fuse in the industry for automotive apps... notice none of the auto manufactures USE glass fuses anymore... wonder why...
Aaron'z 2.5RS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2012, 09:57 AM   #14
RootUsr
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 39652
Join Date: Jul 2003
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: Centreville
Vehicle:
2007 WRX TR (UGM)
R.I.P d00m Wagon

Default

Somewhere on here I've got a thread about a DIY solution I did for my 07 wrx.
It's lasted for a couple years now. It's basically a plexiglass plate that I bolted to the air pump bolts (3 of them) then attached the fuse holder to the top of it. the fuse holder sits right BELOW the A/C hose, and actually looks like it kind of belongs there

I'll see if I can't dig up the thread, and if not, I'll go ahead and take new pictures.

EDIT: Thread is http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1770987 but I'll have to take new pictures
RootUsr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-24-2012, 09:43 PM   #15
Lateralis
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 144421
Join Date: Mar 2007
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: San Diego
Vehicle:
2012 STi ltd
DGM

Default

I^2R losses FTL!!! Could be a possiblity... I haven't seen a fuse block do this in a car before. I've seen it on high voltage/current systems though. Dirty oxidized terminals, and breaks down the cable line so only some of the cable was carrying the current vise all of it. Creates a lot of heat and potentially fireworks shows! Oh joy!
Lateralis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-24-2012, 09:49 PM   #16
teiva-boy
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 22825
Join Date: Aug 2002
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Seattle, WA
Default

So I have an equally cheap fuse holder like what you have. Though mine was professionally installed, and sits in front of the battery.

One side bolts to the battery tie-down, the other is zip tied IIRC to a hole just on the radiator crossbeam. Not melted yet, both in SoCal and now in the PacNW.
teiva-boy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-24-2012, 10:17 PM   #17
jegomes
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 303039
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Minneapolis
Vehicle:
2006 WRX

Default

look into ANL fuse holders over AGU.. the AFS usually usually has a set screw to hold tension against the fuse blades, where as the AGU just presses into the holder and if it ever loosens up then it add resistance and creates heat.. I have seen many a melted fuse holder and every single one has been AGU style...
jegomes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-24-2012, 10:48 PM   #18
tru scoob
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 309011
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: dokodbay
Vehicle:
2012 wrx
swp

Default

If funds are'nt an issue, have a machine shop make one out of billet aluminum. design it any way you want. GL
tru scoob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2012, 01:15 AM   #19
jegomes
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 303039
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Minneapolis
Vehicle:
2006 WRX

Default

Honestly not worth it.. metal conducts electricity, there's a reason fuse holders are made out of plastic...
jegomes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2012, 06:58 AM   #20
speakerpimp
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 241673
Join Date: Mar 2010
Chapter/Region: TXIC
Location: Houston
Vehicle:
2011 WRX
Spark Silver

Default

AGU also had solder inside the ends that will melt causing havoc and looking at it won't let you know it's bad...

speakerpimp is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2012, 12:32 PM   #21
jegomes
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 303039
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Minneapolis
Vehicle:
2006 WRX

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by speakerpimp View Post
AGU also had solder inside the ends that will melt causing havoc and looking at it won't let you know it's bad...

I just ran into this yesterday at work.. dude came in for a troubleshooting.. "Well I've been installing for years and could totally fix this but its not worth my time"

Before he finished filling out the invoice I told him his fuse was bad.. he then argued with me because the " metal thingy in the center is perfect"...

Best part is I still had to charge the dude 20 to change a fuse but honestly I think he was happy.. I also cleaned up his underhood work, including fastening his battery back down.. LOL
jegomes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2012, 08:58 AM   #22
Aaron'z 2.5RS
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 1026
Join Date: Mar 2000
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Hickigan
Vehicle:
'00 RS/WRX Stg5
'98 RS Stock

Default

AGU fuse holders shouldn't be put in cars anymore IMHO.... I've seen more melted AGU fuse holders than I car to talk about...


Boom 12$ MIDI fuse holder (mini ANL fuse)... http://www.darvex.com/store/pc/Sting...der-28p346.htm

Pretty much anything on this page, that doesn't use a retarded glass fuse will do just what you need..

http://www.darvex.com/store/pc/Fuse-Holders-c28.htm
Aaron'z 2.5RS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2012, 12:36 PM   #23
Aaron'z 2.5RS
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 1026
Join Date: Mar 2000
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Hickigan
Vehicle:
'00 RS/WRX Stg5
'98 RS Stock

Default

Yup, AGU fuses could be called the "installers friend".. cause those that don't know, will continue to come back... lol
Aaron'z 2.5RS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2012, 12:47 PM   #24
CSVT_2004
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 182213
Join Date: Jun 2008
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Madison
Vehicle:
1999 Contour SVT

Default

Seen quite a few of the caps come off of those AGU fuses or just desolder themselves inside and not break the middle.
CSVT_2004 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
FS : 94 L Parts: Underhood Fuse Block, Blower Motor, Fan Speed Resistor/Relay haloseven 1993 - 2001 Impreza Specific Parts 1 08-21-2011 01:10 PM
two amp fuse question Will98RS Car Audio, Video & Security 7 05-31-2003 12:07 AM
Amp fuses? plurbe Car Audio, Video & Security 8 10-19-2001 05:15 PM
To wire amp w/ 100 amp fuse... ninrex Car Audio, Video & Security 9 09-16-2001 12:09 PM
Question/Problem with amp fuses. Please read. Andrew Car Audio, Video & Security 0 05-25-2001 09:55 PM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:41 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2014 Axivo Inc.
Copyright ©1999 - 2014, North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, Inc.