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Old 11-26-2012, 03:52 PM   #1
Kyle_J
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Default Tapping noise on my newish built motor

Trying to get some help determining what this tapping noise may be on my 2004 STi. Block has approx 1900 miles on it and was built by myself

Shortblock consists of JE 99.5mm skirt/crown coated pistons, Pauter rods, ACL race std mains and ACL race hx rod bearings, 2011 crank and KillerB oil pickup/windage tray. Main bearing clearance was spec'd to .0015-.0018, rod bearing clearance were all set at .0021.

Heads are full brian crower valvetrain 272 cams built by a local reputable shop.
To me this doesn't sound like rod knock, usually that would be much louder. Also unplugging either coil on the drivers side makes no change in the sound. Sounds like it could be coming from within the drivers side head??? The car runs fine once I get it started.
Also just did a compression test and got 115-120psi on a dead cold motor. Anybody think this could be wrist pin noise?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gHmd...Q&feature=plcp

Last edited by Kyle_J; 11-26-2012 at 08:00 PM.
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Old 11-26-2012, 04:56 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kyle_J View Post
Trying to get some help determining what this tapping noise may be on my 2004 STi. Block has approx 1900 miles on it and was built by myself

Shortblock consists of JE 99.5mm skirt/crown coated pistons, Pauter rods, ACL race std mains and ACL race hx rod bearings, 2011 crank and KillerB oil pickup/windage tray. Main bearing clearance was spec'd to .0015-.0018, rod bearing clearance were all set at .0021.

Heads are full brian crower valvetrain 272 cams built by a local reputable shop.
To me this doesn't sound like rod knock, usually that would be much louder. Also unplugging either coil on the drivers side makes no change in the sound. Sounds like it could be coming from within the drivers side head??? The car runs fine once I get it started.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gHmd...Q&feature=plcp
This is Dustin from BC. I would pull the valve cover on the driver's side and verify the valve lash is within spec as excessive lash will cause valve train noise. The intake should be between .006" -.008" and the exhaust would be between .008" and .010". Also it is very important to use petroleum based oil only on the break in as synthetic can cause premature nose wear which would also cause valve train noise. My direct contact info is DUSTIN@BRIANCROWER.COM or my direct line is 619-749-9018 ext 101 if i can be of service.
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Old 11-26-2012, 08:52 PM   #3
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Check spark plugs/coil paks?
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Old 11-26-2012, 09:16 PM   #4
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Check spark plugs/coil paks?
Spark plugs are covered in soot but look ok otherwise. They weren't extremely tight like they may have loosened up some but they were sealing fine.
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Old 11-26-2012, 09:22 PM   #5
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check your timing tensioner. we had a few in a row that went soft after about 2k miles despite being brand new.

it would only extend about half way so it was the tensioner bouncing up and down against the strike point causing a sort of, but not quite rod knock noise.
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Old 11-26-2012, 09:26 PM   #6
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Covered in soot? Are you tuned for your setup?
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Old 11-26-2012, 09:35 PM   #7
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I've heard of the timing tensioner noises but this sounds like its more towards the head/block area. Yes the car is tuned however slightly on the rich side. Also while starting it up again tonight it sounds like it has low compression in one of the cylinders, it will crank then hit a spot where it seems to crank real easy for a second.
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Old 11-26-2012, 11:38 PM   #8
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Id check the tensioner first.. prob the easiest thing to give a once over. A buddy of mines car had a similar sound when his gave out.. from what I can tell on the video but doesnt really sound like rod knock.. how long has the car been run with this tap? I would do a quick check of the oil too. If its metallic, not good.
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Old 11-26-2012, 11:58 PM   #9
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Sounds valvetrain related
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Old 11-27-2012, 12:03 AM   #10
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did you verify the valve lash?

that sure does take a bit to crank over.
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Old 11-27-2012, 12:04 AM   #11
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Quote:
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Sounds valvetrain related
I said the same thing while listening to the video
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Old 11-27-2012, 01:44 AM   #12
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It has been run a max of 10 minutes and 2 miles with the noise. I verified valve lash when I picked the heads up everything was in spec .006-.010. Using a stethoscope tmr to try and pinpoint the noise next step will be draining the oil and checking for debris. I have a magnetic drain plug so it should tell me pretty quick if I have an internal failure.
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Old 11-27-2012, 01:45 AM   #13
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Also I have not fully tuned my startup tables on my ems hence the terrible startup.
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Old 11-27-2012, 02:05 AM   #14
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When you drain your oil it is a very good idea to cut your oil filter open. The proof is in here whether something broke or not. If there is particulate in there (let's hope there isn't) use a magnet to determine if it is metal particulate or bearing material. You also may want to hold a clean rag over the drain hole while the oil drains to collect more material.

Just what I like to do before I tear down an engine in question. Don't mean to insult your intelligence, but have you ever cut a filter open? It's pretty easy to do with a hacksaw. You have to do it carefully, though.
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Old 11-27-2012, 03:08 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ckyguy68 View Post
When you drain your oil it is a very good idea to cut your oil filter open. The proof is in here whether something broke or not. If there is particulate in there (let's hope there isn't) use a magnet to determine if it is metal particulate or bearing material. You also may want to hold a clean rag over the drain hole while the oil drains to collect more material.

Just what I like to do before I tear down an engine in question. Don't mean to insult your intelligence, but have you ever cut a filter open? It's pretty easy to do with a hacksaw. You have to do it carefully, though.
Wouldn't you be putting metal in the mix when you cut it open? Try to just open it at the pinch area the rest till fall a part like a puzzle

And you shouldn't vary your lash that much it's technically +/- .001 on your recommended lash. But on the money is ideal.
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Old 11-27-2012, 03:15 AM   #16
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Wouldn't you be putting metal in the mix when you cut it open? Try to just open it at the pinch area the rest till fall a part like a puzzle

And you shouldn't vary your lash that much it's technically +/- .001 on your recommended lash. But on the money is ideal.
I use the saw to thin the pinch area, then pry it up with a wide screwdriver by twisting the screwdriver. Even if you are sloppy with it, the real debris is found in the filter element once you spread it apart as well as at the bottom of the filter housing

Here's another way to do it:

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Old 11-27-2012, 02:07 AM   #17
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Kyle, where in Nebraska are you from?
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Old 11-27-2012, 02:15 AM   #18
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I will cut the filter open when I drain the oil, I have saved the last three filters to cut open when I had the chance. Drew I am in Omaha.
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Old 11-27-2012, 02:17 AM   #19
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Cool. Also wanted to ask, is there an oil pressure gauge in your car? If so, did the reading change at all after the noise started?
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Old 11-27-2012, 03:34 AM   #20
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I do have an oil pressure gauge, it has not changed at all
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Old 11-27-2012, 09:19 AM   #21
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If valve lash was bench set on the heads. Its going to change after you bolt the heads to the block. Then change again after you break it in.

Check the valve lash.
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Old 11-27-2012, 11:58 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by TwinscrollGT35R View Post
If valve lash was bench set on the heads. Its going to change after you bolt the heads to the block. Then change again after you break it in.

Check the valve lash.
Good point. I had noticed this also. Forgot to mention it in the other thread.
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Old 11-27-2012, 12:39 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spoolinsti05 View Post
Good point. I had noticed this also. Forgot to mention it in the other thread.

I wouldn't even bother checking lash until the heads are torqued to the block.

that's going to be fun checking the lash with the motor in
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Old 11-27-2012, 01:05 PM   #24
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I wouldn't even bother checking lash until the heads are torqued to the block.

that's going to be fun checking the lash with the motor in
Yea I started off doing mine on the bench then was thinking about the Tq plate fact's and the fact it was easier to do it all on the engine stand. Kinda confused me at first. Then I Tq it down let it sit over night, Tq it again then went at it with the lash. Lucky me I get to pull my motor again and do valve seals or even more fun guides so I'll be able to check it again yey. Typical car stuff.
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Old 11-27-2012, 11:25 AM   #25
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Mine made a similar noise, but from the passenger side. I drove it around the neighborhood to seat the rings and it went away and I haven't heard it since. Definetly a noise in the head, nothing in the block area.
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