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Old 01-05-2013, 12:59 PM   #1
Hextro
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 276823
Join Date: Mar 2011
Chapter/Region: TXIC
Location: DFW
Vehicle:
2010 WRX

Lightbulb Arlington Peeps - 30k maint next sat

I'm back in Arlington after 15 years and figured i'd post to see if any other weekend warriors are in the area. I'm close to 30k miles on my 2010wrx and have a short list of stuff i want to do. I should be getting everything by next weekend so the tentative plan is for next Sat, the 12th.
I don't think i need to borrow anything but will welcome visitors (advanced to learn from and rookies to show a thing or two)

Trans fluid
rear diff fluid
drop in filter
rear links install
rear shifter bushing install
front sway 25mm collars to stop lateral travel
replace front shifter bushing brace (broke the 13lb torque nut)
SS lines (might do this today after buying a micro torch and flare wrench set)

Hex
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Old 01-06-2013, 08:38 PM   #2
blakkboxer
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 167244
Join Date: Dec 2007
Chapter/Region: TXIC
Location: DFW, Tx
Vehicle:
2k3 WRX MBP
black & gold is pimpin'

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good luck hex!
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Old 01-14-2013, 03:15 PM   #3
Hextro
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 276823
Join Date: Mar 2011
Chapter/Region: TXIC
Location: DFW
Vehicle:
2010 WRX

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Busy busy weekend for sure!

So the fluid swaps and air filter were for sure the easiest of the list. The hardest part was breaking the fill/top plug on the rear diff, really need to be setup in the right spot to give it the beans. Both magnet plugs were dirty as expected but no little bits or teeth, they were cleaner than what I was expecting after a few track days and original OE fluids. At 28k miles the fluids weren't terrible but for sure needed to be changed, the back more than the front.

The rear endlinks were put on under load and easy to install too. the only thing about those is that it states they should be vertical but there was not enough thread to make that happen with the 08+ Whiteline rear links, I’d need another 15-20mm of thread to have them perfect. I’ll post pics on the angles. They are even and feel great, but just not what I was expecting per the instructions.

Rear shifter bushing didn’t happen because once we saw how hard it would be to replace the front shifter bushing brace, I figured just have a shop do both. I don’t want to drop my exhaust, jack the transmission a bit and get all those parts out of the way just to get started (at least not in my garage with limited space and equip).

I've had the front sway bar 'clunk' for a while and to confirm it was the bar I put the OEM back on... and the sound went away. While under there I noticed lateral travel in the bar. Nothing too crazy, but about 2" left and right is noticeable. the end links were recently upgraded with Rallitek's but the sound is/was still there.
I bought 2 x 25mm two piece collars (link below) and put them on both sides of the driver side bushing, as snug as possible without touching. You’ll notice both sides don't have the same clearance for these so the driver side worked best. I believe the lateral movement moves the bar to one side and it’s out of center enough that it's hitting on the sub frame causing the clunk. I'm very excited to not have that sound (little rattles and chirps bug me enough, that clunk at low speeds on off center bumps was terrible)
http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/119/1163/=l19s19


Found a great deal on a short shifter so that went in last night too. Other than making sure you have the specific little pliers for that washer it’s about a 15-20 minute from door open to door shut.

Finally (only because I wanted to drive after the other changes) the SS lines.
They were only hard to do because I couldn’t break the hard lines free. Even with flare wrenches I was rounding edges. I ended up buying a micro torch and put heat on each for about 20-30 seconds, then used two vice grips, so tight that they only locked with both hands. Once the initial pop happened (worse sound ever) it was finger tighten and loosen the rest of the way. The front calipers leaked more than I was expecting but I did have an unopened bottle of 600 just in case. Crazy that there's only 15-20lb of torque on the lines connecting to the caliper! I used a vacuum/suck bleeder hand pump to pull fluid down to the fronts, the backs I just cracked open the bleeder valve and gravity did the rest.

Unfortunately and possible due to open ended lugs for track day wheels, I managed to ruin 3 wheel studs. I think having a shop use air on them while the studs were dirty just set me up for failure. Popping them out is not complicated (front only) as long as you spray them well with Pb blaster or WD 40. I chose wd40 as it’s less harsh. They popped out with two good whacks of a small hammer handle sledge. Having both sides up helps because you can spin the hub just right and pop them out. I can now see why adding the bigger 3" would be a pain. There’s just no room without cutting a small half circle in the dust shield. Pulling them through wasn’t too bad with a nut that fit the 12 x 1.25 (not 100% sure) thread and my new open ended socket set.
Waiting for tonight so the wife can pump the breaks for the final bleed and I’m finally done with my personal stage 1 of brake upgrades and stability bits. Suspension and more bushings are next but I want to relearn her at a few track days before messing around again.
Happy Monday lunch break
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