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Old 04-22-2013, 12:15 PM   #1
lambose5
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Default "Brand New" Turbo; Junk?

I desperately need some (quick) advice.

Is this turbo not going to work/build any boost? The wastegate "flapper" doesn't "seal" tight and I don't see how it will build any boost. This is a brand new IHI VF40 that hasn't been installed ever.

WTF?


Might as well ask while I'm waiting:
1. If need be, could I swap the entire wastegate assembly from the old turbo to the new one? By this I mean I now that the part holding the diaphragm is bolted to the turbo housing and that I could undo those, but can I remove the actual metal flapper that covers/uncovers the "air" escape hole on the hot side of the turbo and swap that over as well? It appears as though it would need to have a "pin" or metal rod knocked out, if it's possible at all.

2. I just attempted to 'blow' air through the small silicone line that attaches to the wastegate valve (where the diaphragm is) - which by the way I assume operates (opens) on boost, not vacuum, when you let off the gas in the boost range, anyway I attempted to blow air through that WHILE pulling/holding the flapper open. Neither turbo let air pass through (new or old). So either, my lungs cant provide the p.s.i. (very plausible, LOL) to check that way (even with it held open though??), or - that works on .. vacuum? Hmm...
-This "door" needs to be closed tight right?

Last edited by lambose5; 04-22-2013 at 12:59 PM.
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Old 04-22-2013, 01:03 PM   #2
RemlapaN
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Yes, the door needs to be closed. You might need to preload the actuator arm a little bit to get it to seal up.

It does operate on positive pressure, not vacuum however it's going to take probably 8psi give or take to get it to start moving. A basketball / football pump shoved into a vacuum line can get you there if you just wanna see it move.
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Old 04-22-2013, 01:24 PM   #3
lambose5
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Hey thanks for the quick help.

I did a quick look at "pre-loading". I don't see how this is accomplished on this particular turbo. There is no threaded part or nut on the actuator arm to adjust the 'length' if you will.
There is a 'c' clip that attaches the arm to the flapper part, that's all.
I wanna see that door flush, the way the old one is, the way it should be...even when I attempt to 'pull' it closed, the circular plate that's supposed to block the air is able to turn...
(on my volvo S70, the rod was threaded and had a nut present that you could use to adjust)
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Old 04-22-2013, 03:22 PM   #4
DatSwagKid
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Yes it's junk.
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Old 04-22-2013, 05:40 PM   #5
lambose5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DatSwagKid View Post
Yes it's junk.
Thanks kid, would figured your response would have more swag though
So just junk, straight up?

I'm guessing a replacement from the same vendor would be junk as well then?
I asked before hand, even though it said it was, if it was "a genuine/OEM IHI Brand VF40 RHF5H Turbo Charger" and that it was "Brand new, in box, never opened or installed", and I was reassured on both those points.
So how is it that it would be junk

More importantly, how the eff would/could I figure this out before hand and in the future?
I just saw a reman'd "IHI VF40" on ebay selling from the states for near $1500. LOL. So what IS a realistic price for a NEW stock VF40?
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Old 04-22-2013, 06:02 PM   #6
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I doubt you could move a 8-9psi spring by blowing on it

I would contact said vender and ask about it if they will replace if have them


I can't process the symptoms of it very well in my head right now but if the flapper refuses to close then it is somehow broken and needs to be rebuilt or returned
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Old 04-22-2013, 06:16 PM   #7
Turd Nugget
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I was going to say just swap the turbine housings, but the old one is more than likely jacked up from that turbine wheel. If its just a tiny bit more throw you need in the wastegate arm, you can stick some washers under the mounting bolts which will "pull" the door closed. is this a china turbo? BTW what happened to the old one, it appears the shaft is broken?!
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Old 04-22-2013, 07:06 PM   #8
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Yeah that's definitely a problem. Allowing gasses to bleed off prematurely will slow spool up, limit boost, and probably give your tuner a headache. I would see if you can swap WG actuators.

Mike
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Old 04-22-2013, 07:32 PM   #9
lambose5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shortpersonbk View Post
I doubt you could move a 8-9psi spring by blowing on it

I would contact said vender and ask about it if they will replace if have them

I can't process the symptoms of it very well in my head right now but if the flapper refuses to close then it is somehow broken and needs to be rebuilt or returned
Lol, I realized that about the 8-9psi. Yea I'm talking with them.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Turd Nugget View Post
I was going to say just swap the turbine housings, but the old one is more than likely jacked up from that turbine wheel. If its just a tiny bit more throw you need in the wastegate arm, you can stick some washers under the mounting bolts which will "pull" the door closed. is this a china turbo? BTW what happened to the old one, it appears the shaft is broken?!
I'll see if the washers idea would work, thanks. Though it's one of those things where "It's brand new - I shouldn't have to", that would just irritate me a LOT".

Quote:
Originally Posted by GrimmSpeed View Post
Yeah that's definitely a problem. Allowing gasses to bleed off prematurely will slow spool up, limit boost, and probably give your tuner a headache. I would see if you can swap WG actuators.

Mike
Thanks Grim. Yea it looks like quite a gap, 1/16th inch for sure, maybe more. But swapping the wastegate actuator by undoing that c-clip down the arm wont solve the wastegate door problem right, cause the turbo will still have the same crappy door in it.

Thanks all.

Edit: Turd Nugget - even typing your name makes me laugh. Yes, it is a turbo from China - but it's, as listed and I double checked/asked, a genuine IHI brand VF40 RHF5H and that it was brand new never used etc and was told it was.
So what's the deal there?...

Last edited by lambose5; 04-22-2013 at 07:39 PM.
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Old 04-22-2013, 07:54 PM   #10
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The Chineese are getting better and better at copying turbos, although you see flaws like this quite regularily. The reason I ask is "usually" the brand name companies have strict inspection and its extremely rare to see problems like that.

If its just the wastegate actuator arm/mount out of adjustment its not really a big deal. If you take the wastegate actuator arm off can you get it to seal up nice without much force? if thats the case then I'd just do the washer trick but if it still takes alot of force and still doesnt seal it could be some flashing from the cast or some other bad manufacturing process that wasnt cought. Thats what I'd be concerned with. Also if it is indeed a copy or chineese built replica they just dont seem to last very long. I have used them in the past and have gotten sometimes 5,000 miles sometimes less than 500 miles before the shaftplay was too bad to be usable.
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Old 04-22-2013, 08:24 PM   #11
lambose5
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Thank you so much for the help, y'ol turd

I can't believe I didn't undo that clip to release tension and arm so I could check under the flapper/door easier yet, DUH

I'll check it out tonight.

I really hate that there's this inconsistency - I mean it seems fraudulent. How is what I received a "legit" IHI VF40 turbo then? ARGH!
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Old 04-22-2013, 09:20 PM   #12
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all the more reason to go external.
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Old 04-23-2013, 12:01 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scoobasaurusrex View Post
all the more reason to go external.
Even if he went external the gate would not close From the start so it would be a awkward leaking ewg setup lol
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Old 04-23-2013, 01:09 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shortpersonbk View Post
Even if he went external the gate would not close From the start so it would be a awkward leaking ewg setup lol
There's more than one way to seal the internal wastegate closed at that point
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Old 04-23-2013, 07:50 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scoobasaurusrex View Post

There's more than one way to seal the internal wastegate closed at that point
Yeah if he wanted to weld his new turbo...of he wanted to go for more power I doubt he would have bought this turbo so chances are he's not ok with welding it shut buying a new upipe with ewg and getting the car tuned for it.
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Old 04-23-2013, 10:23 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shortpersonbk View Post
Yeah if he wanted to weld his new turbo...of he wanted to go for more power I doubt he would have bought this turbo so chances are he's not ok with welding it shut buying a new upipe with ewg and getting the car tuned for it.
I'm simply saying that there are more ways to remedy this situation than one. Tack welds are hardly permanent modification to his "new" turbo, so why not get the uppipe, wastegate, and tune and be able to even use this turbo instead of throwing it in the trash?
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Old 04-23-2013, 11:01 AM   #17
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Old 04-23-2013, 11:33 AM   #18
lambose5
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Essentially yes, it was a different vender - red writing instead of blue - but I'd bet it's the same turbo, and probably same "guy"/company.

He just wrote me "can you fix and ill refund $40?"
*sigh* ... No

(how do I post pic from my own comp. instead of a url)
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Old 04-23-2013, 01:48 PM   #19
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To post a picture you will first have to host it on a site like PhotoBucket

I personally wouldn't run this turbo, it's very likely that it will end up like your first one after a much shorter period of time.

Mike
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Old 04-23-2013, 01:59 PM   #20
lambose5
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I don't want to that's for sure. And ftr, I didn't blow the first one, bought the car with the turbo blown.

I'd say it's gonna be hard to get a refund...But I'm gonna try, or get a better one; one that seals up tight!
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Old 04-23-2013, 02:40 PM   #21
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Why didn't you buy a 18g or a 20g
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Old 04-24-2013, 08:20 AM   #22
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As long as the damage isn't crazy you can swap hotsides no problem. There is an index pin so it's nearly impossible to clock them incorrectly.
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Old 04-26-2013, 12:38 PM   #23
lambose5
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Video of scrapes on the inside of the hotside housing, and the beat up blades that did it.

Can I swap this hotside housing over to the new turbo and run it or are those scrapes to much?

Quick vid showing Downpipe & Uppipe mating surfaces; that's after cleaning, looks the same as before I cleaned it.'

Do I need anything else besides the metal gaskets for the dp and up? Do I need some "spray gasket sealant" or something like that orange/copper stuff?

And lastly, I guess theres no type of seal or gasket involved with the 'v-band' clamp? I just swap the housings and clamp, done? Hah. If I shouldn't use the old housing on the new 'ebay turbo' I'll be lookin for a used vf40 guys. If none in great condition are available ill have to get a bnr i guess?..?
Thanks.

Last edited by lambose5; 04-26-2013 at 01:26 PM.
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Old 04-27-2013, 09:04 AM   #24
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..Bump..
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Old 04-28-2013, 06:33 PM   #25
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I guess this is another option., to fix the stock turbo using the stock housing in it's entirety..for ..cheAPEr?

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/RHF5H-VF40-Su...#ht_500wt_1413
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