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Old 12-17-2013, 07:15 PM   #1
RallySport Direct
NASIOC Storefront Vendor
Vendor Sales Rating: (95)
 
Member#: 33174
Join Date: Feb 2003
Chapter/Region: RMIC
Location: Salt Lake City Utah
Vehicle:
We are Open Late!
888-457-2559 Every day!

Default Process West Fuel Anti Surge Tank install!!

Fuel Surge Tank install.

**DISCLAIMER. We at RallySport Direct posted the install guides to help the community with their installs. We will not be responsible for any potential damage performed as a result of your own personal installation.**



We have all of these parts, what should we do with them? I know, letís get them installed on our employee Jakeís 2011 Subaru STI! As you can see in the picture below, we are going to install quite a few parts on this thing. Shortly after we get them all installed, we will take the car to get it tuned and get some numbers for you guys!



You can see, we have our work cut out for us. In this thread we will be installing the Process West anti-surge tank/pump kit. This kit is ideal for those that donít want to remove their factory in tank pump but want to make more than stock power.

It comes with the tank, a DeatschWerks DW300 fuel pump (installed in the tank) and the associated wiring and instructions.




First thing on the list to do is get the tank mounted. In order to accomplish this, we need to get the transmission cross member out and drill a couple of holes. In order to get the cross member out, it just takes 4 bolts and it will slide right out. The transmission will drop about a half inch, but donít be alarmed itís all good.



Now, when you get your kit, it will have a template to make finding the correct drilling spot a breeze, we had instructions and it worked perfectly fine. Mark your spots, and drill your holes. Keep in mind there are two layers of metal here, make sure you go through both layers as we have to run bolts through these holes and put nuts on the back side.






Now that we have the holes drilled, we can reinstall the cross member. Just install it in reverse of the removal process. Next we need to put the fuel hoses on the barbs on the tank. There are four lines that come off the tank, the only one we need to keep track off is the ďpump outletĒ barb shown here.



We simply marked ours with tape and put all four lines on the tank using the provided gator clamps (just place these on the hose and squeeze down with pliers till they click into place) in preparation of placement.



There, all in place, and ready to install on the car.



Now we can put this thing in itís new home. It should slide right into place on the driverís side of the car right where we drilled the holes, next to the transmission. Slide it up there carefully routing the hoses towards the intercooler to clear the steering knuckle, then curve them up, and around towards the stock fuel lines. It will be clear where they need to be routed when youíre under there.



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Last edited by RallySport Direct; 12-17-2013 at 08:04 PM.
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Old 12-17-2013, 07:15 PM   #2
RallySport Direct
NASIOC Storefront Vendor
Vendor Sales Rating: (95)
 
Member#: 33174
Join Date: Feb 2003
Chapter/Region: RMIC
Location: Salt Lake City Utah
Vehicle:
We are Open Late!
888-457-2559 Every day!

Default

FUEL SURGE TANK INSTALL CONTINUED





This isn’t a very good picture, but you can get an idea of where to run the hoses in this picture, this image was taken facing the rear of the car with the camera so you can see the steering knuckle on the top left of the image. Be sure your lines clear this knuckle as to avoid rubbing a hole in the fuel lines. You can use some zip ties to hold them in place.



There is a bracket that we need to bolt to the tank and towards the subframe. Place as to have the proper angle so it sits flush, and then we can drill some holes to put the provided rivets in place to hold the bracket/tank. Once this is done, man, it feels like it isn’t going ANYWHERE, it’s a very solid mount.





Now we can move up top and start hooking up our fuel lines. We removed all of our existing fuel lines. We installed an aftermarket fuel system including fuel lines, and fuel rails and fuel pressure regulator, but we’ll get to those in another thread. Your install might differ from these instructions in this respect, but the basic installation should be very similar.

When installing the fuel lines into the existing system, the only line you really have to make sure you hook up properly is the fuel pump outlet. This will go right into the “top” fuel line going to the fuel rails on your car. (The one without the factory FPR) This is a picture of the hardline coming from the factory fuel pump, it goes to the surge tank this is the feeder line for the tank.




Here you can see the line that came off the top factory line (the one marked to rails) then the rest go to the surge tank. Including the one coming out of the fuel pressure regulator.





That’s it for the hard parts installation, now we need to move on to the wiring part. The factory fueling system on this particular car has a 3 stage voltage supply to the stock pump. Because of this, we can’t just simply wire it to the existing fuel pump wires. Luckily for us, this kit comes with all the wiring and a safety switch to avoid fuel continuing to pump after an engine shut off condition. For this, we will have to pick up an RPM signal, and an ignition signal from the ECU. No big deal, we got this!

First things first, we need to remove the battery. Undo the terminals and take them off the battery, take off the 2 nuts on the battery tie down and pull it off, then we can remove the battery to gain more room to wire this thing up.



You can see in the above pic that we have removed the fuse box top and exposed the factory fuses. Now we need to lift both fuse panels out of the housing to expose the box and the underside of the fuse panel. This is pretty easy, just take a screwdriver and gently pry the four clips on the larger panel and two clips on the smaller panel and they will pull out. You might have to work the wiring harness going into the fuse box, but they will both come out with little effort.



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Last edited by RallySport Direct; 12-26-2013 at 07:27 PM.
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Old 12-17-2013, 07:15 PM   #3
RallySport Direct
NASIOC Storefront Vendor
Vendor Sales Rating: (95)
 
Member#: 33174
Join Date: Feb 2003
Chapter/Region: RMIC
Location: Salt Lake City Utah
Vehicle:
We are Open Late!
888-457-2559 Every day!

Default

FUEL SURGE TANK INSTALL CONTINUED

Here’s what they will look like when they are pulled out of the box.



Now, loosely place the provided harness in the box and run the ground strap and long wires out the bottom of the box. You’ll want to affix the ground to the M6 bolt to the right in this image





Take the red heavy gauge wire and bolt it to the large 120A factory fuse.



Now we can just place the relay and safety switch in the bottom of the box.



Let’s get inside the car and get to the ecu. We need to tap into 2 wires at the ecu for RPM and ignition. On the passenger side of the car, under the carpet is where the ecu sits. Just pull a couple of clips off and pull the carpet back to reveal the ecu cover.



Three bolts and one nut later and the cover comes off to reveal the ecu.



There is one nut and one bolt holding the ecu in place (one on top and one on bottom), take them off and take the ecu out of the perch.




With the ecu out of the way, we can route the wire down to the surge tank and hook up the red wire to the terminal on the side of the tank.



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Old 12-17-2013, 07:16 PM   #4
RallySport Direct
NASIOC Storefront Vendor
Vendor Sales Rating: (95)
 
Member#: 33174
Join Date: Feb 2003
Chapter/Region: RMIC
Location: Salt Lake City Utah
Vehicle:
We are Open Late!
888-457-2559 Every day!

Default

FUEL SURGE TANK INSTALL CONTINUED



We can wire in the ground for the pump now, one end goes to the bolt that holds the tank to the bracket, the other goes to an existing M6 thread on the chassis rail, you can’t see it very well in this picture, but it’s just above the arrow.


Then, the rest of the harness can go up over the transmission you can zip tie it to the existing wires that go over the transmission.





They should look something like this when you have them in place



Now to feed them through the grommet, just tape the wires to the end of a screwdriver and plunge it through.



Then we can pull all of the length through the hole, into the car.



Now that we have the wire through, we just need to tap into the appropriate wires to get the signals we are looking for. The ignition signal comes from a green wire with a red stripe located in connector B136 pin 30 and the RPM signal is a grey with a red stripe located in connector B135 pin 15. Both are shown here.



Now that we have the wires we need to patch into, just peel back a bit of the shielding and cut it out to make room for the harness wire to be soldered to it. Wrap the wire around and solder it on. Then take some electrical tape and cover it up really good to insulate it.





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Old 12-17-2013, 07:16 PM   #5
RallySport Direct
NASIOC Storefront Vendor
Vendor Sales Rating: (95)
 
Member#: 33174
Join Date: Feb 2003
Chapter/Region: RMIC
Location: Salt Lake City Utah
Vehicle:
We are Open Late!
888-457-2559 Every day!

Default

FUEL SURGE TANK INSTALL FINALE


Now tape up the harness and plug all the connectors back in the ecu and bolt it back in place.



Now we can put everything back together and it’s ready to go! Now get out there and enjoy the extra fuel you now have!
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