What is needed?

[1quikrex]

To run low 14 sec. to a high 13 sec. 1/4 mile in a N/A 2.5RS? This means no nitrous, is it very difficult?

[rhdude]

you will probably need to get a higher compression motor, cam's and a full valve train.. exhaust, intake, suspension, and tires. a built motor (like cobb's) will allow you to rev higher (8k rpm redline), and make alot of N/A power.

[ciper]

Leave it all alone and strip the body down.

[joefocker20]

Yeah, youre going to need around 10,000.. Anyway, I think with everything I'm going to be buying (Damn IRS takes money fast, but dosent give it up quick!) My car should be pretty quick, but this is still around 6000 in parts and labor for the cams and clutch. And I still haven't touched brakes or suspension, with the exception of tires, 20mm FHI Swaybar, and the Whiteline Rear Diff Lock Kit. Here's what I have so far:

Ganz CAI w/ K&N
PROECM Chip
20mm FHI Rear Sway
Stromung Catback w/ Kartboy Hangers (Hangers on Order)
Mr Joshs 1.19 lb pulley
Kartboy Shifter w/ MOMO Airleather
Sparco Pedals (On Order)
Kuhmo Ecsta 712s
Hawker 13.5 lb Battery
Whiteline Diff Lock Kit
STI "I" Badge"
Clear Sidemarkers
About 150 lbs removed

Here's what I'll be adding to the car shortly:
Brullen Headers and Cat
Cobb Street Cams
Bored TB
Exedy 9 lb Flywheel
Cobb Clutch
LW Bumper Beams

Should run pretty good times..

[DoctorNick]

Buy my n/a power package, its a good start

in all serousness(heh sp?)

cams, intake, realy good free flowing headerback exaust, n2o, ported heads, shorten 3rd & 4th gear, lighten flywheel, strong strong clutch, and aftermarket engine management.

Aftermarket engine management is very important. The stock ecu is going to hinder majorly.

[joefocker20]

I seen that for sale, but I just spent 5000 to move from NJ to CO, and I'm waiting for my amended income tax refund.. If you could do a fellow Nasioc'er a favor and hold onto the cams for me, I'd be much obliged

[BOY]

With cams, header, pulley, intake, highflow cat, ProECM and a little here and there I was running with and beating most stock WRXs to 100-ish, figured about a 14.7 1/4 mi. The only way you're going to break into the 13's is to raise the effective compression of the engine and improve the breathing. Raising compression should be self explanitory... pistons. Breathing is both cams and heads (intake manifold and TB are quite good stock). You'll need to raise the redline to use the cams so now you're getting into valvetrain mods and either a unichip or full standalone ECU. At these power levels you'll probably have to close the block and maybe sleeve the cylinders. Then there's the clutch and tranny, stock tranny if babied should handle the power but if you tweak the gearing you'll be able to put down more/less power where you want it. Oh, then there is the weight... if you can loose a couple hundred lbs off the car many of the above mods won't necesarily be require but the car will likely not be street legal or safe (poly windows, CF everything, lightweight or no bumper beams, CF/FG bumper covers/fenders, FG/CF dash, you get the idea). Daunting huh?

This is why I went turbo

[DanzBorin]

Originally posted by 1quikrex
To run low 14 sec. to a high 13 sec. 1/4 mile in a N/A 2.5RS? This means no nitrous, is it very difficult?

Too much $$$ to be worth it...