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Old 07-14-2003, 10:06 PM   #1
balajc
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Question Engine Flush?

My 2000 RS has only 16000 miles so far...today while getting my oil changed, the place I always go suggested to get an engine flush to get all the dirty gum out of the engine (the car is roughly 3 and a half years old)

I figured it would be a good idea and paid $50 for it...was it necesary or not?

Thanks
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Old 07-14-2003, 10:18 PM   #2
Mulder
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This is ridiculous for a low-mileage car like yours. Sorry but they talked you into throwing away $50.
As long as you do regular oil changes and don't make a lot of very short trips your engine should never build up a significant amount of sludge. And even if it does, after accumulating much higher mileage, a flush would actually be dangerous because the loosened sludge could find its way into the oil pickup and clog it causing oil starvation. Also dissolving deposits around older engine seals can cause them to leak.
If this place values your business maybe they will give you your money back if you convince them you didn't need the service. You may want to consider changing your own oil in the future, it is fairly easy to do.
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Old 07-14-2003, 10:39 PM   #3
balajc
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Did I do any damage today besides throwing away $50? Since my car is low-mileage, the flush should not have hurt anything right?

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Old 07-14-2003, 10:46 PM   #4
BOFslime
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actually if you go by the above, you would never flush... then again, i've never had it done....never owned a car for more than 2 years either.

and no, you didn't hurt anything.
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Old 07-14-2003, 10:56 PM   #5
ciper
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Get more info in what they actually did, an "Engine flush" could mean anything.
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Old 07-14-2003, 11:08 PM   #6
balajc
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well...the guy told me that getting the flush would make my oil changes more efficient (in the same time, getting the slush/gum out of the engine) and something about 0 weight oils?


Last edited by balajc; 07-14-2003 at 11:34 PM.
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Old 07-15-2003, 10:48 AM   #7
rilles
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At 100K km intervals, I put some STP engine flush in on the next oil change.

At 120K km one car that burned oil at an increasing rate, the flush seems to have conditioned the seals, oil burning was almost nil. At 230K km oil burning was getting higher again - another flush cured it again.

YMMV...
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Old 07-15-2003, 11:13 PM   #8
balajc
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rilles:
what does YMMV mean?
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Old 07-16-2003, 06:04 AM   #9
ciper
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Your Mileage May Vary.

I think you probably just wasted money, no harm done. A more effective way to keep it clean would be just to change your oil filter twice, once when you fill and once when the oil is half your interval.
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Old 07-17-2003, 10:43 PM   #10
Dr Ken
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Engine flush....
Sounds suspiciously like a Jiffy Lube deal.
If you want what's best for your subie, don't deal with these guys, please... ... they'll screw up and you'll regret it. If I may suggest, do it your self or have fluids done by someone who you KNOW won't screw up. Sorry to vent, but many people have been burnt by the 'quicky luby' places and regretted it ever since.
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Old 07-17-2003, 11:31 PM   #11
balajc
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yeah, I am considering to do my own oil changes from now on...never done it before, but from reading the owner's manual, it looks simple enough and I dont even have to jack up the car

It also gives me excuse to put Mobile 1 Synthetic in my 3 & half years old, worth less than $13k dollar car
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Old 07-19-2003, 07:27 AM   #12
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$$ value has no place when talking aboit your 00RS. Take care of it.

Oil is cake, fuel filter is cake, plugs n wires are cake, coolant is cake, I'm sure theres a lot more cake stuff too thats not coming to mind. Keeping a white one clean.. now thats a tough one
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Old 07-19-2003, 08:10 PM   #13
balajc
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Quote:
Originally posted by moogoob
$$ value has no place when talking aboit your 00RS. Take care of it.

Oil is cake, fuel filter is cake, plugs n wires are cake, coolant is cake, I'm sure theres a lot more cake stuff too thats not coming to mind. Keeping a white one clean.. now thats a tough one

To me, my RS is priceless...just that I can now say I want to use the "more expensive" oil if I am doing my own oil change
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Old 07-20-2003, 09:14 AM   #14
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Default Change your own oil

Like everyone else said, you more than likely just wasted $50. There couldn't have been that much sludge in there to flush out to get stuck in the pick-up. Did I read correctly that your car only has 16,000 miles on it? I'm sorry, this is a joke and I wouldn't trust these guys again. Seriously, changing the oil on a Subaru is the easiest thing I have ever did, besides maybe changing a fuse. The oil filter is the easiest to get to I've ever seen and I'm sure you know how to loosen and tighten a single bolt. Plus, you'll save money, know it's done right, and have a sense of satisfaction from doing it yourself.

-Charles-

Last edited by ImprezaVA; 07-20-2003 at 03:57 PM.
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Old 07-20-2003, 11:41 AM   #15
Boxologist
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A set of ramps make the oil change easier than working with jacks or jackstands.
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Old 07-21-2003, 12:10 AM   #16
balajc
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Yep only 16000 miles on my 2000 RS. I bought it in january with 9300 miles on it. I started really driving it in March and has put on additional 7000+ miles in about 4 month

With my new job, I am putting on 500 miles a week so every month and a half I would need an oil change...with my next oil change, I am gonna try doing it myself (cross fingers)
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Old 07-21-2003, 10:00 AM   #17
ImprezaVA
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With putting that many miles on your car a week, it would be a definite money saver to change your own oil. Changing your oil isn't that hard, but if you mess up, it could be catastrophic.

Tools you need or make the job easier:

-Rhino Ramps are $30 and have a 12,000 lbs capacity. These are also low profile so you can get semi-lowered vehicles up on the ramps. Most ramps and just about all jacks and stands will work, this is just my preferred method. I say a 2-ton jack and stands would be the minimum safe zone for a jack, IMHO.

-Filter wrench or sockets. I like the filter sockets. These are like $3 a piece and I have 4 of them to fit all types of oil filters. A 3/8" ratchet fits the filter socket to make loosening the filter a cinch.

-3/8" ratchet and 14mm socket, IIRC. I prefer 6-point sockets to prevent rounding the head of the drain plug.

-1/2" ratchet and 14mm socket could be necessary for really tight drain bolts. Or 1/2" or 3/8" breaker bar.

-Torque wrench for drain bolt insertion, or do what 90% of us do, snug it up with 3/8" ratchet or 14mm wrench. Don't over tighten this, just snug it up.

-Hand tighten the oil filter. I weigh 150 lbs. and usually tighten it as tight as I can get it by hand. Don't use a filter wrench. Make sure when you take the old oil filter off that the old filter gasket comes with it. Use fresh oil to lubricate the new oil filter's rubber gasket. Also, shake the new oil filter to make sure nothing is in it that would rattle. If it rattles take it back b/c whatever that's rattling will more than likely hurt your engine.

-Hot oil drains better and more efficiently than cold oil. I've never had oil burn me, but watch out for the exhaust components. And, when draining the oil, have the oil filler cap off. This allows the oil to drain faster.

-And, of course, something to drain the oil in. I like something big so I can change multiple vehicles oil w/o having to drain it each time. I think the one I have is a 15 qt. Blitz drain pan that cost about $7 at Advance or Wal-Mart.

I'm sure others will pitch in their helpful hints. Good luck and hope this helps.

-Charles-
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