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View Poll Results: What do you do when changing the oil?
Put on a dry filter, fill crankcase, and start it up. 44 42.72%
Fill filter with oil first, don't notice a difference in oil PSI 48 46.60%
Fill Filter with oil first, it takes longer to get normal oil PSI 5 4.85%
I prime the engine first before starting 6 5.83%
Voters: 103. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 02-07-2005, 09:17 AM   #1
WRX03
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Default Oil Change Method

I've read how some people disable the ignition and crank the car over to get oil thoughout the engine before starting. (pull cam sensor connection or other methods).

Yesterday I did my typical method of running the car for a minute or two before draining the oil. I then quickly drain the oil, put on a new filter with oil poured in it, and get it restarted. I just have the idiot light and this was my first time really watching it when starting the car after an oil change. It didn't seem to go out any slower than when the car sits overnight. I like to see what other people do.
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Old 02-07-2005, 09:29 AM   #2
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I fill the filter, fill the crankcase and fire it up. I think priming is going way overboard. Even for an oil dork like myself, I think there are limits.
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Old 02-07-2005, 11:28 PM   #3
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I fill up my filter so it will cut down on time for oil to reach the bearings.With a dry filter your bearings don't get oil til the filter is filled.I've always done it that way,with some cars you don't have that option.I think it helps out in the long run.
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Old 02-08-2005, 12:42 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ajabobrut
I fill up my filter so it will cut down on time for oil to reach the bearings.With a dry filter your bearings don't get oil til the filter is filled.I've always done it that way,with some cars you don't have that option.I think it helps out in the long run.
i agree, call me paranoid...

i also think the oil filter placement is great on the WRX/STi, on some cars you'd take an oil bath trying to put the oil filter back on full...
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Old 02-08-2005, 01:13 AM   #5
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I hate chaning oil on the IS300. Its on the right side of the block and its mounted pretty much vertically
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Old 02-08-2005, 03:33 PM   #6
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I've read where engines have broken shortly after oil changes. They think the causes were the short oil starvation caused by the oil change.
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Old 02-08-2005, 03:48 PM   #7
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Assuming you use decent synthetic oil, you could forget to refill it with oil, drive around the block empty, and you still wouldn't do any damage to the bearings.
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Old 02-08-2005, 05:19 PM   #8
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I did my first two oil changes in the WRX without pre-filling the filter and the oil light definitely stayed on longer.
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Old 02-08-2005, 06:58 PM   #9
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There is NO good reason NOT to fill the filter prior to installing it on our cars.

NONE.
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Old 02-08-2005, 07:10 PM   #10
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I pre-fill the filter, pull the ecu fuse, and then crank it over. Put the fuse back in and then fire it up. It takes 1 minute tops to fill the filter and pull the fuse. Cheap insurance.
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Old 02-08-2005, 09:23 PM   #11
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I don't understand. When you prime the motor you're still causing the same wear as if the motor wasn't primed and just started. Think about it. The rotating assembly is still spinning and causing wear until the pressure gets up. Why not just start it after your prefill the filter?
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Old 02-08-2005, 10:57 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillJC
I don't understand. When you prime the motor you're still causing the same wear as if the motor wasn't primed and just started. Think about it. The rotating assembly is still spinning and causing wear until the pressure gets up. Why not just start it after your prefill the filter?


The starter is jsut spinning the engine....when the engine actually RUNS, it puts a great deal more stress/pressure/etc on all the associated parts.....and the starter rotates the engine very slowly while the oil gets started circulating....
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Old 02-08-2005, 11:11 PM   #13
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Yes but, the oil pressure builds quicker too if the engine starts. Everything internal is still in motion slow or fast. you're still causing the same amount of wear.
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Old 02-09-2005, 07:43 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillJC
Yes but, the oil pressure builds quicker too if the engine starts. Everything internal is still in motion slow or fast. you're still causing the same amount of wear.


....I don't think you understand the difference.
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Old 02-09-2005, 09:53 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Scotty
....I don't think you understand the difference.
Alright, Educate me.

If you really wanted to go all out the you would have to have some sort of compression release like some of the larger insdustrial pieces of equipment. You're sill fighting the compression.

And, yes, I do understand what you are talking about but, how much wear is it really causing? In reality, not much. there is no grinding as the rod and main bearings, if in good shape actually retain some oil. Otherwise, every single car on the road would only last 50k miles.

When I start my car after an oil change I get pressure build up almost immediately up to about 95 psi when cold. Hot and flowing it drops to about 35 psi at idle. I have a mechanical gauge so I know exactly what's going on in there. You can't honestly expect me to think that priming the engine by spining the engine does any good. The only real way to prime an engine is with an "accusump" type device. We use them on the race cars and I'm putting one on my 67 mustang since it will sit for extended periods of time. The oil is kept in a cylinder under pressure and before you fire the engine, you release the valve and the oil system gets pressurized. It also acts as a failsafe if the sump goes dry in corners as it keeps a supply of oil to push through the system.

This is the correct way to prime the engine as none of the internals are moving. You are only building pressure in the oil system. So no, I don't think priming the engine any other way does any good. The interals are still moving and still causing similar wear as if the engine were started in a normal manner.

Bill
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Old 02-09-2005, 10:29 AM   #16
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priming assuming the pump has enough rpm to prime itself sends a little bit of oil all around the bearings etc

the rod bearings when theres no oil take a lot of abuse because theres a grinding that occurs when BAM the piston comes down and bam comes back up then BAM goes down instead of a normal slipping when theres oil around thurr

alex
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Old 02-09-2005, 10:30 PM   #17
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....I'm well aware of the particulars of a dry sump oil system and what is happening to an engine whern it is started.

It is a well known fact that the vast majority of engine wear happens on a cold start and THAT is one of the reasons that MANY diesel engines are seldom shut down. Some of the large industrial ones are shut down only for maintainance, once or twice----every year.
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Old 02-09-2005, 10:45 PM   #18
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I just fill the filter; no other tricks.

btw I once had all the oil leak out of my 84 Subie and still drove it at least 10 minutes with no damage.
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Old 02-09-2005, 10:50 PM   #19
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first off, I'm not talking about dry sump oiling. and you should know that I am also well aware on what's happening to an engine when it's started as well. What I was talked about before is this.

http://www.accusump.com/

Similar to dry sump but, not exactly. Dry sump requires the use of an external oil pump and scavenges oil fromt the block and sump. Accusump's push oil into the engine through the oil filter housing as needed. All other oiling systems are still in place.

Remember, this thread was talking about first starts after oil changes. Not everyday startups. I seriously doubt that one needs to pull the fuse and prime a motor before everystart. My point was, in case you missed it, that there is no difference in the wear the engine recieves during the first cold start after an oil change to the wear it recieves starting everyday. That is as long as you prefill the oil filter. So, I see no need to prime the engine as long as the filter is prefilled. The only real way to properly prime an engine is externally so as that none of the internals are in motion. We all agree on that, I hope. Any benefit in priming an engine by moving the rotating assembly would be insignificant in the overall life of the engine.
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Old 02-09-2005, 11:32 PM   #20
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I've never filled a filter before installing it. Not on the WRX or on any other car that I've owned previously. Even after draining the oil from the pan during an oil change, there is still some oil left on the internals. As for potential damage to the engine, I would suspect that it is so negligible that it really doesn't matter. If the damage was really as critical as some on the board would suggest, then all 3 of the Honda's that my parents have would be dead by now. The oldest one is at 130K miles and still going strong. . .never pre-filled the filter on it. My friend's Integra was at 298K miles and would have kept on going if it wasn't stolen and totaled. . .never pre-filled the filter on that car either.

In the end, whether or not you choose to pre-fill the filter is up to you. The more important issue is that you do the oil changes at regular intervals.

Calvin
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Old 03-23-2005, 07:16 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cnk
The more important issue is that you do the oil changes at regular intervals.

Calvin
Best thing said in this thread. This is more important than what type of oil you use, what type of filter you use, whether you prefill your filter or not, or whether you crank prior to starting. . .Just change it when ur supposed to.
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Old 02-10-2005, 10:06 AM   #23
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My Method:

1) Run vehicle until up to temp
2) Let vehicle cool until oil can be safely changed without burning yourself
3) Open oil plug/drain oil
4) Dump 1 quart fresh oil through engine with plug open
5) Remove old filter
6) Close oil drain plug
7) Fill filter with fresh oil & install
8) Fill crankcase
9) Get in car and run engine (watch pressure)
10) When pressure is steady...check for leaks with vehicle running
11) Drive gently for next 5-10 miles

I have NEVER had an engine suffer any type of failure on me. Record is 238,000 miles on a vehicle which was well used/abused. While the body wasn't worth anything- the engine still had excellent compression & low leakdown/wear and was crated/sold due to it's excellent condition.
I've also only ever used Amsoil full synthetic w/K&N filters*.

Take it for what you will- but that works for me and takes all of 15 minutes (minus the warmup/cooldown)

*I'll be using a Subaru filter on my STi once I get it however.

Last edited by Z28Hokie; 02-10-2005 at 10:11 AM.
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Old 02-12-2005, 02:50 AM   #24
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I am with CNK on this one. I never ever pre-filled up a filter on any car i had, and have no ill effects in my 10 years of hard driving. never primed the cars either.
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Old 02-13-2005, 01:13 PM   #25
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I thought the way the bearings worked was an oil film between the bearing and the crank. This film doesn't squeeze out under pressure due to the surface tension of the lubricant. The oil circulation just replenished this film. If you just drained the crankcase this film wouldn't go anywhere and still lubricate.
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