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Old 03-17-2005, 06:18 PM   #1
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 53037
Join Date: Jan 2004
1993 Fake WRX
Grandma Red

Default ej18 ej25 SWAP Dyno Results, HEADS UP!

Before a/f adjustements my car ran LEAN, WAY LEAN! especially from 4k-5k rpm.

run 3: missing (their printer wouldn't work, Ill post it in a few days), but

recorded 130 WHP 137 lb/ft torque. and a very smooth a/f curve never below 12.5 and above 13.5 from 2500 rpm +.

93 impreza LS auto with 2001 manual 4.11 Stage II SOCH 2.5.
Adjustments to a/f were made using HKS afr (awesome product btw)

Hm... lets see. Whoever said 1.8 ecu + 2.5 = rich? Think again.
Detonation at 3500-3800 rpm WOT was almost cured during 3rd run(and I thought it was exhaust rattle, I am lucky I didnt blow my motor running 87 octane). You can actually see Detonation on the dyno results. Hm... time to stop saving money on gas. 1.8's Ignition is quite aggressive, who needs the know sensor? Thanks Suabru. Anyway, I am happy, I didnt realise I was missing 15 hp on average. Although peak hp was only improved by +5 (it was a little rich at 5500rpm), the car is faster, much much faster. $80 well spent.

To all the people who have done this swap I would recommend 91 octane, AFR/AFC, and a few dyno runs. I only drove this motor for 1500 miles and they were easy "dating" miles. If I drove it like I normally do (4k-6k canyons) my motor would have been out of my car by now and I'd be scratching my head over a bent rod/failed bearing from detonation.

Last edited by maxim; 03-17-2005 at 08:24 PM.
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Old 03-17-2005, 06:21 PM   #2
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 53037
Join Date: Jan 2004
1993 Fake WRX
Grandma Red


Mine should be fine on 91, since a/f is good and there's almost no carbon deposits. Where does yours detonate? 3700 rpm?

Last edited by maxim; 03-17-2005 at 08:25 PM.
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Old 03-17-2005, 07:47 PM   #3
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 14555
Join Date: Jan 2002
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: MI
1995 Impreza L


Thats awesome. I was one of those that said it runs rich. When I first did the swap, I noticed that when then engine is cold (startup in the winter) It ran and still does run, noticeably rich until it warms up.

Detonation: I definatly had the same issue when running 87 and 89, I even notice it on occasion running 91. It would start to detonate under high loads WOT, 93 makes everything nice though.

I was unable to view your dyno graphs, said i needed to register, Ide love to see them though...
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Old 03-18-2005, 10:44 AM   #4
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 874
Join Date: Feb 2000
Chapter/Region: RMIC
Location: Colorado Mountains
2015 WRX STI
2004 Mazdaspeed MX-5


Thanks for posting your results. I'm waiting for a local shop (SuperRupair) to set up their dyno so I can do a little tuning.

I ALWAYS run the 91 in the wagon. However, it's a higher compression hybrid (phase I EJ25 shortblock, EJ22 heads, Delta cams), so I knew what I was getting into from the start.

Nice shot of the motor, too. Looks clean.
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Old 03-18-2005, 11:56 AM   #5
Scooby Guru
Member#: 36838
Join Date: May 2003
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: Reston VA
2001 SRP RSTi
2011 DGM WRX hatch


One of these days I will swap =P

Hopefully this summer.

-- Dave
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Old 03-18-2005, 07:23 PM   #6
Kevin Thomas
Street Racing Instructor
Member#: 110
Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: 1997 OBS, 1996 SVX, 1988 RX
1989 1989 XT6


Originally Posted by maxim
Adjustments to a/f were made using HKS afr (awesome product btw)
Would another option for the poor folks be to purchase a used ECU for the same year/model of the motor you are using? I mean, you could purchase an ECU at places like car-part.com. That's where I get my ECUs from.
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Old 03-18-2005, 08:34 PM   #7
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 53037
Join Date: Jan 2004
1993 Fake WRX
Grandma Red


Well... no Kevin. Its not cost effective in my opinion for any swap to change ecu from another Subaru. Especially when the car is OBDI and engine is OBDII. I mean just think about it, you will need to somehow wire:

Tach (analog to Digital)
Speedo, intrument panel,
heat controls,
emmission controls,

This will take you at least 100 hours the first time you do it, just like the guys who do the wrx swaps. 100hrs*($15/hr or more for most of us hopefully) + cost of all parts.

That's at least $2000. And guess what? still no control over what engine does and a crappy oversensive knock sensor, etc.

For the poor folks what I did is the only option I believe is available.
I mean engine = $500, piggyback = $100, dyno time = $80. And that's it. Depending on quality of stuff you buy you can do entire swap in less than $1000.

A standalone like Link 2 would be my choice for a turbo swap, I never understood the point of 100+hrs of wiring crappy OBDII ecu on your car.
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