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Old 06-02-2005, 11:21 AM   #1
scooterforever
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Default Cleaning And Reattaching The IACV (Idle Air Control Valve)

I cannot stress highly enough that you should have a replacement gasket on hand before opening the IACV. Also, remember that the IACV is attached to coolant lines, so... it's not something you want to work on when the car is hot.

This post explains how to remove, clean and reattach the IACV (sometimes also referred to as simply the IAC). In addition to my own experience (and frustration) with idle problems, this post incorporates suggestions from Unabomber, Overdose, WRX03 and others. I am not a mechanic or WRX expert. This post is not intended to cover all potential idle problems, but is merely a summary of approaches that several NASIOC members have had success with in solving their specific idle problems. Your results may vary. Feel free to PM me with additional suggestions, edits or corrections. Warning: I would recommend having a replacement IACV gasket on hand before opening the IACV. See below.

What Is The IACV?

The IACV is the “Idle Air Control Valve,” or more fully, the “Idle Air Control Solenoid Valve.” The IACV directly affects idle conditions, RPM in particular. On cold starts, the IACV sends rpm’s higher than on a warm start. Irregular idle conditions may be the result of a dirty IACV sensor. Limited discussion of the IACV is covered on page 36 of the DOHC Engine service manual (at least for the 2002 MY).

Where Is The IACV?

The IACV sits directly above the throttle body, and is affixed to the throttle body with two screws. The picture below shows the IACV. In this picture, I have replaced one screw (left lower corner) with a hex-socket cap screw, while the other screw (right upper corner) has been removed.


Indications and Symptoms

The IACV is exposed to the intake charge, and grime can build up from both (these are my assumptions) a. oil blow-by and b. any impurities that manage to escape the air filter. A dirty IACV appears to cause both too high idle rates and too low idle rates. In my case, RPMs dropped immediately to zero (car stalled) when stopped. I needed to brake torque at a stoplight to simply keep the engine running. My idle problem took some time to manifest, and first appeared and disappeared after one day in January 2005 (bought the car in March 2002). By April 2005 it had returned, and was dramatically worse.

Replacement Gasket

As stated at the beginning of this thread, you should order and have in hand a replacement gasket for the IACV before removing the IACV, which is why I am including the “replacement gasket” discussion before I include instructions on how to remove the IACV (see below).

The IACV gasket is fragile, but what is more frustrating is that it actually expands under vacuum/pressure and temperature. As a result, it is possible that the old gasket has expanded so much that it is impossible to get it back into position once you have removed the IACV. You cannot know the condition of the gasket before removal of the IACV, so a good safety precaution IMO would be to have a new gasket standing by just in case.

Here is the issue in properly reattaching the IACV (see below): the IACV separates coolant circulated in the throttle body from the intake charge. If you have a bad seal, you will get coolant in your intake. From postings of members who have experienced this, coolant in your intake will show up as white smoke out the exhaust. For members who have performed the throttle body bypass mod, a bad IACV seal would manifest itself as a boost leak.

The part number for the IACV gasket is 22659AA120. It cost me $6 from Exeter Subaru in NH in person, but I could probably have gotten it for less from subaruparts.com online.

This picture shows how the old gasket expanded over the left-side of the gasket housing. It also shows where I pinched off a section trying to reattach the IACV.



This picture shows how much larger the old gasket is compared to a fresh gasket.



Removing The IACV

The IACV is attached to the throttle body by two screws that are very soft. These are phillips-head screws with wide slots for a flat-head screwdriver. Given the softness of these screws, Unabomber has suggested removing these screws with a large flat-head and not a phillips-head screwdriver. I used a flat-head screwdriver, and managed to still take a small piece out of the top of one screw.

WRX03 has also found success with this screw removal technique: Attach a small pair of vise grips to the heads of the screws, just enough pressure to slightly indent the metal. Turn the vise grips along with turning a phillips-head screwdriver at the same time. It will break the screws loose with ease. If you're careful and your "small" vise grips have a flat section at the tip of the teeth, you can barely see the indention on the heads of the screws. Larger vise grips work but it easier to eat up the screws. The picture below demonstrates WRX03 “vice grip” technique.

-- I need to locate this picture and fix this link still --

Cleaning The IACV

NASIOC members have used several different techniques to successfully clean the IACV. I would break these into three categories:

a) Unabomber’s alcohol and Q-tip approach
b) variations on Unabomber’s technique using WD-40, carb cleaner, and throttle body cleaner in place of alcohol. Note: it has been reported that carb cleaner eats rubber gasket material; therefore, it may be less desirable of a cleaning solution for cleaning the IACV than other solvents. If the IACV gasket is damaged, the result may include a boost leak and coolant in the intake.
c) WRX03’s gasoline technique
d) Subaru write-up submitted by Jon_in_CT: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/ISCSpring04.pdf

I myself have only used the alcohol technique. I have no direct experience with the other approaches.

Unabomber’s rubbing alcohol and Q-tip approach
Quote:
Originally Posted by Unabomber
Clean with alcohol and Q-tips; it should take you 20 or so to do the job. Reinstall. Turn the car to the ON position, wait 10 seconds, then OFF. Repeat three times, then start your car. This is the advice I got when my idle messed up this weekend. It didn't work, but when I started the car saturday morning after sitting overnight, the idle was fine. My idle problems were too high of an idle and a wandering idle with the associated P1519 code. This is what I did and what fixed it and since it's a cake fix, you might try it as well. There was a surprising amount of gook inside the IAC. Makes me glad that I switched back to the stock paper air filter over my old Perrin foam unit. Cleaner > supposed performance gain.
I followed this approach with rubbing alcohol and also required about 20 Q-tips. The catch is that you need to apply the Q-tips gently. You do not want to scrub, but rather gently remove grime. After cleaning, I let the IACV air dry before reattaching.

Variations On A Theme

Other board members have substituted alcohol with WD-40, carb cleaner and throttle body cleaner with success.

WRX03’s Gasoline Technique

WRX03 cleaned his IACV by inverting it and filling the cavity with gasoline, and letting the gasoline sit in the cavity for a time. I would assume that Q-tips could also be used to clean out grime that the gasoline did not dissolve. Here is a picture of WRX03’s IACV after cleaning with gasoline. Note: this is much cleaner than mine was after I cleaned it with rubbing alcohol and Q-tips.



Reattaching The IACV And How To Replace The Stock Screws With Cap Screws

As indicated above, the screws used to attach the IACV to the throttle body are VERY soft. I stripped one when I was reattaching the IACV trying, and failing, to reuse my old gasket. Thanks to WRX03, who pointed out to me that the screws are 5 mm by 20 mm long, I went to Ace hardware and bought two M5 (5mm) 20 mm long cap screws with hex sockets. You can see one of these in the lower left of the first picture. The stock screws come with both a lock washer and a larger flat washer. I was unable (not sure how they got the flat washers on the screws to begin with) to remove the flat washers from the stock screws, so I used a small lock washer with each cap screw/bolt. I omitted using a flat washer with each cap screw/bolt, which meant that they were slightly longer than the stock configuration. That did not, however, prove to be a problem. This picture compares the stock screws to the new cap screws I used:



The torque specification for the stock screws is 2.1 foot-pounds. Not having a low-torque torque wrench, I used a small hand-held allen wrench until they cap screw/bolts were snug.

Seating And Sealing The Gasket

It is important that the IACV be properly sealed. As you can see from the pictures above, an improper seal will allow coolant from the throttle body coolant lines to flow INTO your intake. Assuming you are using a fresh gasket, insert the gasket in the gasket grooves on the top of the IACV. As explained by Overdose in other posts, the gasket will look slightly too small. This is normal, and it will expand with heat, time and vacuum. Here is a shot of the new gasket ready to go:



Once the gasket was in place, I closed the IACV back onto the throttle body (see the next section below on reattaching the IACV). After the two bolts (I replaced the screws) had been torqued down, I reset the ECU (the manual says to do this; not sure if it is necessary, but figured it would not hurt). I then primed the fuel pump 3 times, for two seconds each time (I read this as part of Unabomber’s IAC cleaning instructions). I started the car, and let it idle for about 10 minutes. This allowed the gasket to slowly heat up with the throttle body.

Following good advice from Overdose, I then took the car on a 10-mile freeway drive staying off boost, which is harder than you might think. Our cars really want to stretch their legs at all times. But I wanted the engine bay to get warm with highway-rpm’s (yes, it was flush with highway-speed-airflow, but anyway…) while the vacuum of running without boost would force the IACV gasket to expand.

After driving for 10 miles, I stopped and let the car idle for another 5 minutes. I checked the IACV for any outside coolant leaks, and it appeared fine.

I then turned off the engine. After about twenty minutes I returned, then started the car up. I drove back to the freeway, and, to see if the gasket was now sealed, applied boost. Then I applied more boost. After each application, I looked out my rear view mirror for any tell-tale clouds of white smoke that would indicate coolant had entered my air intake. No smoke. I then slowed down a bit, and did a nice healthy WOT run. All was fine, and the gasket was seated.

Last edited by scooterforever; 02-05-2007 at 02:40 PM.
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Old 06-28-2005, 05:10 AM   #2
wrx5150
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To late, dealer charger me amost $500 to replace it.
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Old 07-01-2005, 10:54 AM   #3
djerickd
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Whoa! Good write up! bumping for all to see!
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Old 07-09-2005, 08:17 PM   #4
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Good write up! One thing to add, Unibomber's 'large flat-head screwdriver' technique didn't work for me, my car has over 50k miles and the screws were really stuck. I used an impact screwdriver, which makes removal of the screws that secure the iac valve easy with no stripping or damage. I bought mine from Home Depot for $20 and it's useful for lots of things, you can use any 1/2" drive socket with it.

http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDUS...prod_id=169426
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=37530
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Old 07-10-2005, 05:52 PM   #5
Amazake
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Excellent, I have already ordered my gasket but the heads up on the screws is appreciated.
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Old 07-20-2005, 10:36 PM   #6
scooterforever
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Well, looks like the site hosting my pictures has killed the links. I'll see if I can get them back up.
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Old 07-20-2005, 10:49 PM   #7
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Boo! If you can't work it out, PM me and I'll shoot you my email and I'll host them.
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Old 07-21-2005, 03:09 PM   #8
-=Ice-T=-
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I want to clean my IACV, but I need the pics. Hurry up and get them rehosted.
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Old 07-30-2005, 06:11 PM   #9
MYfirst00
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Let Unabomber host em, I wanna see!
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Old 08-01-2005, 01:51 AM   #10
Fat Tits
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Pics please!

this would be a huge help, this has been a PITA since Jan.. been to the dealer 4 times, each being "fixed" on my legacy.. morons.

thank you.
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Old 08-03-2005, 09:52 PM   #11
kspek
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the large screwdriver didnt work for me either haha. need to invest in a impact screw driver now.
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Old 08-09-2005, 05:35 PM   #12
bren wrx
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since one of my screws wouldnt come off, i tried another way, i seafoamed the car through the bov return line well and then since i did the TB bypass line i sprayed carb cleaner directly in there, let it sit, then sprayed some more in with the motor running and revving, seemed have cleared everything up
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Old 08-16-2005, 01:31 PM   #13
illmatic
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+1 for the pics. I need to do this asap.
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Old 08-16-2005, 05:31 PM   #14
SAINTSOFSPEED
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Good Job. I wished this post was written sooner, but I accomplished it the same way it was written. Carb Cleaner was good enough for me and my car has been running perfect since then...
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Old 08-20-2005, 07:01 PM   #15
scooterforever
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Pics are back up! Sorry some of them are oversized -- I'll try to get them resized and re-edit the links, but at least they're up.
-- Scooter
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Old 09-10-2005, 11:21 PM   #16
Amazake
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FYI my IACV was spotless thanks to the alcohol injection.

We also used an impact screwdriver to remove the screw.
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Old 09-15-2005, 01:36 PM   #17
Jon [in CT]
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Why not follow the procedure recommended by Subaru?
http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/ISCSpring04.pdf
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Old 11-06-2005, 10:29 PM   #18
ugetworked311
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon [in CT]
Why not follow the procedure recommended by Subaru?
http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/ISCSpring04.pdf

Has anyone tried this one?
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Old 05-05-2006, 09:35 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ugetworked311
Has anyone tried this one?
My GOD thank you someone FINALLY has found this!!
Down here it's called sa459, (S-ubaru A-ust 459), upper engine cleaner. Used on EVERY SINGLE SERVICE-every 12,500kms down here.
I've been using delco stuff that smells and looks and behaves the same, but apparently it's off the market here. I just bought a dozen cans at $5.50 each!! GREAT STUFF, can't talk it up enough...
and I'll tell you something else...
I used to use it about once a month on my ea82Turbo that had a carby C/Case and used to re-breathe ALOT of blowby, as with WRX's, the PCV is upstream of the turbo, and with all that carbon/build-up on the compressor wheel, it took a while to spool. I have found that by spraying this stuff into the inlet tract of the turbo at 'fast idle', you can effectively clean the compressor wheel and remove unwanted oil/carbon deposits on intercooler, BOV, throttle body, idle speed controller, and even the catalytic converter gets a clean. You can use it on everything from boost solenoids to oxy sensors, (next best thing to sonic bathing). It is also really good weed killer and will cause birth defects in your unborn children. We had british petroleum test some to make a 'smokeless' version so the dealer network wouldn't have to fit carbon filters on the exhaust extraction at everysingle workshop. Bp came back and told me that "...once they took the 'smoke', (read;carcinogens), out, it just didn't work anymore.."

I cannot talk this stuff up enough-had a go just the other night.
Chainsaw wouldn't start-suspected a 'feathered' s'plug, gave it a squirt of SA459, (upper cyl cleaner), two rips later she was running!! I just love it.
Sorry to rant----it just gets me excited

Cheers
Sixpack
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Old 05-10-2009, 03:59 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixpack subaru View Post
My GOD thank you someone FINALLY has found this!!
Down here it's called sa459, (S-ubaru A-ust 459), upper engine cleaner. Used on EVERY SINGLE SERVICE-every 12,500kms down here.
I've been using delco stuff that smells and looks and behaves the same, but apparently it's off the market here. I just bought a dozen cans at $5.50 each!! GREAT STUFF, can't talk it up enough...
and I'll tell you something else...
I used to use it about once a month on my ea82Turbo that had a carby C/Case and used to re-breathe ALOT of blowby, as with WRX's, the PCV is upstream of the turbo, and with all that carbon/build-up on the compressor wheel, it took a while to spool. I have found that by spraying this stuff into the inlet tract of the turbo at 'fast idle', you can effectively clean the compressor wheel and remove unwanted oil/carbon deposits on intercooler, BOV, throttle body, idle speed controller, and even the catalytic converter gets a clean. You can use it on everything from boost solenoids to oxy sensors, (next best thing to sonic bathing). It is also really good weed killer and will cause birth defects in your unborn children. We had british petroleum test some to make a 'smokeless' version so the dealer network wouldn't have to fit carbon filters on the exhaust extraction at everysingle workshop. Bp came back and told me that "...once they took the 'smoke', (read;carcinogens), out, it just didn't work anymore.."

I cannot talk this stuff up enough-had a go just the other night.
Chainsaw wouldn't start-suspected a 'feathered' s'plug, gave it a squirt of SA459, (upper cyl cleaner), two rips later she was running!! I just love it.
Sorry to rant----it just gets me excited

Cheers
Sixpack

That's super cool Sixpack - where can we get some of that stuff here in the 'states? It sounds legitimate for sure. I was thinking of using Seafoam in some of the areas you mentioned, would that accomplish the same thing?

Also, I know this is old and I'm sorry I was just curious if anyone else has tried putting any type of cleaner straight into the turbo inlet hose to clean some gunk off the compressor on the turbo and stuff? If so, which line on the turbo inlet hose? There are like 3-4 of them... and could I pour a little Seafoam in that area, once I establish a safe place to pour it?
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Old 12-25-2005, 12:18 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon [in CT]
Why not follow the procedure recommended by Subaru?
http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/ISCSpring04.pdf
I can't use that one, I have a 98 which is a MAF. Besides, my IAC looks different than those posted here.
Mine has the Teflon coated (it's a green coating) rotary valve inside.

This thread is a well done thread for those that can use it though.
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Old 11-20-2005, 02:00 AM   #22
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nice.
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Old 11-30-2005, 09:48 AM   #23
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Default Aahhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!

dang! ive tried cleaning mine like 3 times and the idle is still stayin at like 1500 and surging to 2000... its really annoying.

i priced a IACV at Subaru of Jacksonville and they said 310$ ouch!

i guess i'll have to pay since this part is only covered under the 3/36000 warranty and im at 46 or so....

on the other hand it may not even be the IACV... here's my situation.

my car is a stage 4 and its been running on basemaps since i bought it...
my 4-wire 02 sensor had one wire frayed and not connected when my tranny popped. we rebuilt the tranny and reconnected that wire on my 02. (the car was down for a little over a month with the intercooler off). when we finally got the tranny back in it started doin this idle nonsense! so its either the UTEC makin it idle funny or the IACV??? what do you guys think???
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Old 11-30-2005, 09:59 AM   #24
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Not enough information to give you a definite answer. I wouldn't recommend spending the $300 for a new IAC on speculation.
Perhaps you can arrange to borrow one from someone to see if it helps or not?
I would also suggest replacing the 02 if the wiring is damaged since it's a critical component for maintaining proper A/F. Although it's also an expensive part I wouldn't hesitate here since it's already damaged.
Do you have any CELs? It would be helpful to hook up a scanner, or preferably a Delta Dash, and see what data is coming back from the various sensors.
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Old 01-17-2006, 01:34 AM   #25
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Is there anything in the IACV that would be damaged by cleaning it with Toluene or Acetone?
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