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Old 06-12-2005, 04:25 AM   #1
Hotrodguru
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Default Wheel Bearing Replacement - Guru's guide w/pics



So what was supposed to be a nice beautiful Saturday to go driving turned into a get under the Subbie and bust out the tools to wrench day. For the last month what I thought was maybe tire wear causing some road noise turned out to be a bearing going bad. It was confirmed yesterday when I took a slow turn and heard a knocking, popping, something’s just not right type sound. Not bad for 90k miles on the car with LOTS of track days. So after much research and reading I decided to tackle the job. Before you start these are a few things you MUST HAVE or at least have access to (to get an idea or picture hit up http://www.snapon.com/):

1. Ball joint / tie rod separator.
2. A nice press.
3. Bearing separator.
4. Bearing & seal drivers (really large sockets will work as well)

Alot of good info was found here on NABISCO but none of the threads had pictures nor pointed out some of the troublesome things I ran into. The Subbie manual (The PDF version I have) makes things kinda complex. After starting on the left side of the vehicle the following illustrations and photos show the order of sequence I did the right side with which seemed to go really smooth after having first done the left. Please use this thread to assist you and not necessarily as a guideline. The threads I searched and found assisted me quite a bit and hope this adds to them. If you've done this and maybe did it in a different order or with some easier steps please feel free to provide some feedback.

Guru

Disassembly

1. Well once you figure out you're going to need to replace the bearings it's best to do them as a set. Actually it should be the only way. You'll need to get the bearings, outer seal, inner seals, snap rings and metal bands for CV Boots.




2. To start like stated in the pic, you'll have to get the 1 1/4 axle nut loose. Easiest to break it loose with tires on the ground, if you can't have someone hold the brakes.









3. Remove all the standard brake items, caliper, pads, and caliper bracket. You'll need a 12mm, 14mm and a 17mm.


Last edited by Hotrodguru; 12-26-2012 at 03:23 PM.
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Old 06-12-2005, 04:25 AM   #2
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4. Now that you've removed the brake caliper and other items, place them aside and secure the brake caliper on top (zip tie to the spring) to get it out of the way. Remove or loosen the following items (this is the order I did it in).

1. ABS sensor - 12mm.
2. Upper AND lower ball joints (picture only shows upper) - 19mm.
3. Strut bolts (leave these in loose till you remove the CV boot bands) - 19mm.








After a good recommendation by Gary S, I decided to update this pic. You have an option here, I do think it's a tad bit easier to loosen the 14mm and drop the A-arm.




5. Now it's time to remove the ball joints, CV boot bands and then removing the strut tower bolts.

EDIT - The following step (the next 2 pictures) IS NOT NECESARY to change out the wheel bearings. I removed the bands and CV boots solely to replace the grease while I was at it.






Loosen and remove the 19mm bolts that hold the strut tower to the hub.



6. Now everything’s off and you're ready to remove the hub and take it to a shop, the garage or wherever you have a press and bearing tools.


Last edited by Hotrodguru; 12-26-2012 at 03:26 PM.
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Old 06-12-2005, 04:26 AM   #3
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6. Now its time to disassembly the hub. I think it’s easiest to explain simply by referring to the pics. The hub assembly does have to be disassembled in this order.

1. Press the hub out (inside out).
2. Press the bearing out (outside in).
3. If needed use the bearing separator to remove the outer bearing that tends to stay on.








NICE!

Last edited by Hotrodguru; 12-26-2012 at 03:26 PM.
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Old 06-12-2005, 04:26 AM   #4
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Assembly of Hub

Press the following items in this order.

1. Bearing (inside out)
2. Seal (outer seal, before inserting hub)
3. Hub (outside in)
4. Seal (inner), the seal with the lip is the inner seal, lip goes pointing towards the axle and acts as a dust shield











Last edited by Hotrodguru; 12-26-2012 at 03:27 PM.
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Old 06-12-2005, 04:26 AM   #5
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Assembly of hub back on car.

This is simple and you’re home free now. Make sure to take the opportunity at this time to clean out all the old grease from the CV Joint and replacing it with some nice new stuff. I like the Lucas Red “N” Tacky #2 which is good up to 540F. Once you freshly grease it, all you have to do is assemble it in the reverse order of which you disassembled. Make sure to torque all the bolts back to factory specs. Last thing to do is to tighten the axle nut and bending it down to lock on the axle. I had someone hold the brakes when I tightened it up and that was it.










Breakdown on front axle assembly




Last edited by Hotrodguru; 12-26-2012 at 03:28 PM.
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Old 04-13-2014, 05:49 PM   #6
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Default

regarding removing the Ball joints in the original post, I just bought a $15 'balljoint' removal tool at harbor freight and it works great, eliminates the rubber tearing issue. I thought is was much better than the 'pickle fork' style.

here is what it looks like: http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qua...tor-99849.html
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Old 12-07-2007, 11:55 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hotrodguru View Post
Assembly of Hub

Press the following items in this order.

1. Bearing (inside out)
2. Seal (outer seal, before inserting hub)
3. Hub (outside in)
4. Seal (inner), the seal with the lip is the outer seal, lip goes pointing towards the wheel and acts as a dust shield
Hell it's been so long I really don't remember even though I've done this a few times. I do know I put it together just the way it came off. Actually if you look at my writing I think I had it right. Because I have "Seal (inner), but then state outer (I highlighted in red). I just need to correct the above grammer error in red right? Think I just mixed it up when writing the instructions.

Can we confirm so I can make the change in the post?

Thanks
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Old 12-10-2007, 11:22 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hotrodguru View Post
Hell it's been so long I really don't remember even though I've done this a few times. I do know I put it together just the way it came off. Actually if you look at my writing I think I had it right. Because I have "Seal (inner), but then state outer (I highlighted in red). I just need to correct the above grammer error in red right? Think I just mixed it up when writing the instructions.

Can we confirm so I can make the change in the post?

Thanks
It should read:
Quote:
4. Seal (inner), the seal with the lip is the inner seal, lip goes pointing towards the axle and acts as a dust shield
-Bryce
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Old 12-10-2007, 11:58 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hotrodguru View Post
Hell it's been so long I really don't remember even though I've done this a few times. I do know I put it together just the way it came off. Actually if you look at my writing I think I had it right. Because I have "Seal (inner), but then state outer (I highlighted in red). I just need to correct the above grammer error in red right? Think I just mixed it up when writing the instructions.

Can we confirm so I can make the change in the post?

Thanks
You probably meant that it's the outer of the two inner seals, meaning it's loser to the outside of the knuckle eventhough it's more inner relative to the car. Does that make sense? It does to me...

I'm 100% not sure how it is in the front, since I haven't taken that apart, but I believe the OP was correct saying that the dust boot part of that seal should go in facing the wheel. My question re- the rear http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1399054
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Old 05-09-2008, 12:48 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hotrodguru View Post
Assembly of Hub

Press the following items in this order.

1. Bearing (inside out)
2. Seal (outer seal, before inserting hub)
3. Hub (outside in)
4. Seal (inner), the seal with the lip is the inner seal, lip goes pointing towards the axle and acts as a dust shield











Hotrodguru,
In your assembly of hub section what exactly are you pressing in this photo



1 - Are you actually pressing the outer seal in? I didn't realize that needed pressing.

Also, I am having difficultly getting out the old inner seal (or the second part of the bearing removal), so now my snap ring confusion sets in. What exactly what was the order for you to remove the bearing from the knuckle.

2a - Did you take the inner seal off first, then get to the snap ring, and then pressed the bearing casing out?

2b - Or did you just press the bearing out and the inner seal and snap ring led the way out?

In my destroyed bearing there weren't enough parts left in tact for me to figure this out during disasembly, but now I have several spare knuckles that I am trying to get the bearings out of.

3 - The knuckle has a lip on the outer portion (hence the order of the pressing). I didn't realize that until I had the thing in my hand, apart. I used the wheel off of my floor jack. It was small enough to fit inside of the lip, but large enough to catch the inside of the bearing casing. What exactly did you use to press the old bearing casing ouside in. I can't tell from the photo.

4 - When you are pressing the hub on what exactly is the press pushing down on. The bearing casing? I am guessing this because otherwise in your photo you could just press the bearing out again with the hub as the pusher.

Thanks again for any help.

P.S. I finally got the lower ball joints out with a crazy setup and violent blows with the hammer. Lost of rust to overcome.



That is a bearing puller tool, described in the OP, but its pushing on the knuckle, then bolts that normally would pull that device are attached to provide leverage for another bolt puller to leverage against it that is pulling on a waher pressing on the LCA nut. yes that is a 19mm open end wrench stepping in as a washer. I could tighten the bolt puller setup just enough. The wood working clamp is on there just to hold the arms of the bolt puller in place. Then I soaked the thing in PB over night, and the next morning beat the hell out of the knuckle. It finally came out with tons of rusty chucks.
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Old 04-30-2009, 12:01 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hotrodguru View Post
Assembly of Hub

Press the following items in this order.

1. Bearing (inside out)
2. Seal (outer seal, before inserting hub)
3. Hub (outside in)
4. Seal (inner), the seal with the lip is the inner seal, lip goes pointing towards the axle and acts as a dust shield

I just performed the front wheel bearing replacement on my 02 WRX today. Took me about 1hr 45mins in my buddies shop from putting the jack under the car to letting the car back down.

Excellent write up, but you forgot one important step for some of the newer DIYers out there. The snap ring. I almost forgot to remove mine, before pushing the bearing sleeve out.

And, in this picture, Your outer seal is incorrect. That seal should have the flat face and the inner should have the cupped face to wrap around the axle for dust protection.
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Old 06-12-2005, 12:52 PM   #12
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Thank you kind Sir! We (me ) have been wanting to see a nicely outlined tutorial for a long time.

Couple of questions if I may- the sockets used to press out/in are common sizes- you don't recall how big the biggest one was by chance?

What's the purpose of the bearing seperator? Does the used bearing need to be seperated?

good tip on the CV grease- are the bands difficult to reinstall - how is it done?

Did you repack the oem bearings w/ any "special grease? Would this be difficult to do if one wanted to (I've seen a couple of high temp greases mentioned in previous wheel bearing threads)?

Thanks again!

Mike
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Old 06-12-2005, 03:14 PM   #13
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I'm with Mike, this is something I've wanted to see a good tutorial on for a while. I think I might have a left front wheel bearing going, but I wasn't sure it was something I could do myself.

The only question I have is why did you remove the band from the CV boot? Based on personal experience (I've replaced both my front axles in the past couple years) you should be able to just pull the outer splined portion right out of the hub without touching the CV boot itself, especially since the steering knuckle is unbolted from the strut. There should be plenty of play there. That would save you from some messy work. Or is there something else I'm missing?

And I guess I have the same question as Mike about repacking the wheel bearing with "better" grease. I seem to recall that Gary Sheehan had wheel bearing problems on his USTCC car due to the extreme heat he was putting into the brakes, and I vaguely recall him saying they disassembled the OEM bearings to repack them with higher temp grease.

Pat Olsen
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Old 06-12-2005, 03:17 PM   #14
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Yippy! I've been hoping someone would write this up with photos.
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Old 06-12-2005, 03:37 PM   #15
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Yeah, SubySpecialties out here in SoCal does the same with their bearing installs. They completely clean out the stock grease and replace it with high quality high temp race grease.
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Old 06-12-2005, 03:58 PM   #16
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Nice!

I just printed it to a PDF in case your pics go away at some time in the future.

I always wanted to buy a press, now I have an excuse.
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Old 06-12-2005, 08:08 PM   #17
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Good write-up.

I would recommend unbolting the lower balljoint from the upright rather than pulling the balljoint out of the control arm. Much less work and risk of damage by unbolting from upright. Unless, of course, the balljoint is damaged and needs to be replaced anyway.

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Old 06-12-2005, 08:14 PM   #18
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Absolutely exceptional write up.

Nice work
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Old 06-12-2005, 08:27 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGSKYWRX
the sockets used to press out/in are common sizes- you don't recall how big the biggest one was by chance?

What's the purpose of the bearing seperator? Does the used bearing need to be seperated?

are the bands difficult to reinstall - how is it done?
The sockets you can use will be pretty huge, I believe about 2 inches or larger. Luckily at my friends shop they work on 18 wheelers so they had an assortment of big sockets.

As for the bearing separator, well when we pushed the hub off the bearing the lower bearing on both assemblies stayed on. You use the bearing separator to clamp around the bearing allowing you to push the axle out while holding the bearing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick Olsen
why did you remove the band from the CV boot?

And I guess I have the same question as Mike about repacking the wheel bearing with "better" grease.
Well I just removed the band because my car had 90k miles on it. Lots of track days and lots of standing water in Houston. Just wanted to clean it out and replace with some new grease.

As for replacing the bearing with higher temp grease. I don't know if it's really necessary but lots of people have said so. I think I was lucky to get sooo many miles on my bearings. Luckily I did have availability to a bearing grease packer (MUST HAVE TOOL if you want to do this) and went ahead and replaced the OEM grease.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GarySheehan
I would recommend unbolting the lower balljoint from the upright rather than pulling the balljoint out of the control arm. Much less work and risk of damage by unbolting from upright.
Ahhh nice...I thought about it but wasn't sure. Now I get a confirmation , thanks for the tip.

Guru
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Old 11-23-2012, 12:11 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fragment View Post
Nice!

I just printed it to a PDF in case your pics go away at some time in the future.

I always wanted to buy a press, now I have an excuse.
Could you email me that PDF if you still have it? PM & il give you my email
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Old 06-12-2005, 09:27 PM   #21
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OK- thanks that makes sense on the seperator.

Yeah there is just a small bolt that is removed on the knuckle and you can tap down on the control arm and the ball joint will fall out ( if doesn't you can use a beefy screw driver or small pry bar to gently open the gap so that it does).

Just googled the bearing grease packer- looks like a very handy tool (don't even have to get your hands dirty )

One other question- according to the FSM the press needed doesn't look like it has to be very powerful (calls for a low torque)- did you find this to be true?
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Old 09-26-2006, 01:02 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGSKYWRX View Post
Yeah there is just a small bolt that is removed on the knuckle and you can tap down on the control arm and the ball joint will fall out ( if doesn't you can use a beefy screw driver or small pry bar to gently open the gap so that it does).
I spent several HOURS removing my ball joints from the knuckles this Saturday (with extensive help from a friend).

40,000 miles in Boston, 10 autocrosses, and 1 HPDE.

I will never live where there's snow again. Ever. Every single job on my car turns into a rust-bind nightmare.

Everyone else may be far luckier, but I just wanted to comment here so that people do not make the immediate assumption (if they end up on this thread via a search) that it's going to be cake.
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Old 09-26-2006, 01:34 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jblaine View Post
I spent several HOURS removing my ball joints from the knuckles this Saturday (with extensive help from a friend).

40,000 miles in Boston, 10 autocrosses, and 1 HPDE.

I will never live where there's snow again. Ever. Every single job on my car turns into a rust-bind nightmare.

Everyone else may be far luckier, but I just wanted to comment here so that people do not make the immediate assumption (if they end up on this thread via a search) that it's going to be cake.
I know... damn salt/snow. A simple pad/rotor job on my car turned into a 2 day, 7 hour broken bolt experience.
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Old 09-26-2006, 01:50 PM   #24
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I agree with both of you's.. but several hours,, whoa,, I'm not bragging or anything but rust is no problem for a big ol hammer. Or even still, poppin the balljoint from the control arm,, pick your battles wisely....
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Old 11-10-2006, 03:18 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kainam00 View Post
I know... damn salt/snow. A simple pad/rotor job on my car turned into a 2 day, 7 hour broken bolt experience.
+1,
i live in canada.

the lower bolt that holds the pad-bracket over the rotor broke cleanly off right at the head. first time in my 4 years of doing brakes/rotors on any of my cars.

old knuckle drilled out the old bolt and then tapped it out with the original size thread/pitch.

coppaslip is now applied everywhere.
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