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Old 01-15-2006, 07:29 PM   #1
njskatchmo
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Default Bartender: One Scotty's cocktail please.

Quote:
Originally Posted by njskatchmo
I have about 70k miles on my 02 WRX. I can't get my car into 1st in a roll and Reverse always resists, not to mention a stiff 2nd gear. Am I ready for the Cocktail of:

1qt Redline lightweight shockproof
1qt Pennzoil Synchromesh
2qt Castrol HypoyC 80w-90

Is my tranny too high mileage for this?

How hard is it to replace this yourself? Anyone have directions?

What about the differential fluid any comments?


OK.....v3 cocktail

ONE

MORE

T I M E

FOR THE SUBARU 5MT TRANSMISSIONS O N L Y!!!!!
I CAN NOT CONDONE AND DO NOT PROMOTE THE USE OF THE MIX OF PRODUCTS IN THIS POST OR IN THIS THREAD OR ANYWHERE ELSE IN ANY OTHER TYPE OF TRANSMISSION!!!!
USE IN ANY OTHER TRANSMISSION AT YOUR OWN RISK


Favorable results reports of using the 'cocktail' in other transmissions are all over the internet, but I can not verify any of these.

The 'cocktail' was not and is not intended to 'fix' or 'band aid' transmissions that are worn or failing.....it WAS AND IS intended to smooth shifting make manipulation of the transmission less problematic than other than other available fluids ONLY.
All sorts of idiot bull**** has been posted and IS NOT TRUE.
DON'T BELIEVE IT.



2qt 80w90 Castrol HypoyC(NOW labeled Axle Limited Slip 80W-90 by Castrol in North America) NO stupid PM's on this either

1qt Redline HEAVYWEIGHT SHOCKPROOF....NOT the LIGHTWEIGHT!!!

1qt Penzoil 'SYNCHROMESH' transmission fluid....the GM synchromesh fluid PN 12345349 is available at any GM dealer and can be used if the Penzoil product is not available....the Penzoil one IS better.
__________________________________________________ _________

1) FOR BEST RESULTS DRAIN THE TRANSMISSION FOR AT LEAST 30 MINUTES...REMOVE the trans dipstick and use a funnel(see below) with a long spout....

Pour the WHOLE BOTTLE of the HEAVYWEIGHT SHOCKPROOF(NOT THE LIGHTWEIGHT) into the trans....

2) Pour EXACTLY 1/2 of ONE of the bottles of CASTROL into the now empty shockproof bottle and shake it gently.....and pour THAT into the trans

3) Pour ALL REMAINING CASTROL PRODUCT into the trans.

4) Pour EXACTLY 1/3 of the 'synchromesh' into the trans and replace the dipstick

5) Drive car in a NORMAL AND RATIONAL AND REASONAL MANNER using ALL the gears INCLUDING REVERSE.....

6) Park car on LEVEL surface....wait at least 20 minutes and check trans fluid level.....top up with the synchromesh product.

THE 5MT TRANSMISSION DOES NOT LIKE TO BE AT ALL UNDER FILLED....A BIT OVER FILLED IS BETTER THAN ANY UNDERFILL AMOUNT.
OVERFILLING THE TRANSMISSION S L I G H T L Y IS NO BIG DEAL.....DO NOT WORRY ABOUT IT. NO stuid pm's or posts on this please


ALWAYS POUR S L O W L Y.....or ya may end up with it all over UNDER the car and NOT in the trans where ya want it
these funnels work great...and no need to take the IC off
http://www.tools2parts.com/Blitz-606..._7c2023_d_0355
\
POUR SLOWLY....think glacial, here.

Last edited by Unabomber; 10-27-2012 at 09:33 AM. Reason: Added latest version
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Old 01-15-2006, 07:41 PM   #2
THAWA
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I think I'd change my driving habits personally, assuming you haven't already. Going into 1st from a roll isn't how the tranny was designed.
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Old 01-15-2006, 07:44 PM   #3
njskatchmo
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I'm not talking about a 20 mph roll Im talking wont go in unless the speedo is on 0.
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Old 08-23-2006, 02:43 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by njskatchmo
I'm not talking about a 20 mph roll Im talking wont go in unless the speedo is on 0.

always engage your 1st gear somewhat slowly, whether from a roll or from a stop. Jamming it in there won't help (not saynig that's what you're doing, just speaking out of personal experience.

Me, I only have 19k on my car, and ever since day 1, I gently press the clutch in, and take the shifter left then forward, using my wrist, not my entire arm. Works charms.

Reverse is always a pain though.


Good luck
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Old 08-11-2009, 04:45 AM   #5
down_for_the_scooby
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THAWA View Post
I think I'd change my driving habits personally, assuming you haven't already. Going into 1st from a roll isn't how the tranny was designed.
Agreed, not unless you want to seriously snap something. My rex has 43k and it won't go into 1st unless I'm completely stopped.
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Old 08-11-2009, 11:02 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by down_for_the_scooby View Post
Agreed, not unless you want to seriously snap something. My rex has 43k and it won't go into 1st unless I'm completely stopped.
Mine too. And having the 2.0 motor doesn't help it when I put it in 2nd when rolling slowly, the car struggles to go.
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Old 08-11-2009, 02:55 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by down_for_the_scooby View Post
Agreed, not unless you want to seriously snap something. My rex has 43k and it won't go into 1st unless I'm completely stopped.

I have never had ANY issues getting ANY gear at any reasonable speed for that gear

I can get(and got with my 02) 1st at 20mph with NO issue at all.

I guess there are a lot of 'people' out there that just dont have any idea how to actually DRIVE a manual transmission

THAT is what kills these transmissions....drivers that should be driving automatics and not breaking gearboxes thinking that they are ****ing RickyRacer
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Old 08-11-2009, 06:10 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Scotty View Post
I have never had ANY issues getting ANY gear at any reasonable speed for that gear

I can get(and got with my 02) 1st at 20mph with NO issue at all.

I guess there are a lot of 'people' out there that just dont have any idea how to actually DRIVE a manual transmission

THAT is what kills these transmissions....drivers that should be driving automatics and not breaking gearboxes thinking that they are ****ing RickyRacer
Perhaps you could tell us all how to drive a 5sp correctly if it's something different then the following.

Press clutch, put gear lever into 1st gear. Let out clutch while applying gas.

I've tried double clutching, rev matching, etc to no avail. The cocktail, Extra S and 75w90 dino oil did nothing to help the 1st gear issue.
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Old 01-15-2006, 08:03 PM   #9
Uncle Scotty
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Quote:
Originally Posted by njskatchmo
I have about 70k miles on my 02 WRX. I can't get my car into 1st in a roll and Reverse always resists, not to mention a stiff 2nd gear. Am I ready for the Cocktail of:

1qt Redline lightweight shockproof
1qt Pennzoil Synchromesh
2qt Castrol HypoyC 80w-90

Is my tranny too high mileage for this?

How hard is it to replace this yourself? Anyone have directions?

What about the differential fluid any comments?


...juust do it....and remember.....do NOT dump 4 qt in the tranny!!!!!!!!

That WILL overfill it---bad juju.

Add ~3.3 - 3.4...drive the car---check....repeat a couple times....make SURE it isn't too much before ya add more.

Add the lube SLOWLY into the dipstick tube or you WILL get more UNDER the car than IN the tranny

...and the rear diff can use GL-5 whatever.....I'd use a syn like M1
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Old 01-15-2006, 09:04 PM   #10
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I used a 4" funnel propped into the passenger side mount of my STi titanium strut brace with a short piece of scrap hose from the funnel on down into the filler neck. Draped a couple old rags around the funnel & filler neck to catch any spills.

Might want to warm up the new gear oil 1st, as it flows _real_ slow. I sat the bottles in the kitchen sink full of hot tap water for a half hour or so. Dry off the outside of the bottles before filling up the trans.

When doing the rear diff:
-Take out the filler plug (upper one) 1st before draining the diff!
-Have a long 1/2" drive breaker bar handy as the plugs can be in tight. I put the car on ramps to get extra leverage room and more stability than jack stands.
-Handy to have a pump...I used a cheap one from AutoZone that mounts onto the gear oil bottle. Took many pumps to fill it back up. ;-)
-I have the Primitive rear diff guard, so I used another piece of scrap hose jammed into the drain hole down to a catch can to minimize the oil caught by the diff guard when draining out the old oil.
-I didn't use any sealant on the plugs, just a bit of anti-seize on the threads...no leaks seen.

Brent.
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Old 01-15-2006, 09:20 PM   #11
njskatchmo
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Where can i find the castrol stuff?

(edit)

I've read that original it was 75-80 castrol hypo C and they discontinuted it. Will it affect performance with 80-90. Should i go with valvoline 75-80?

Last edited by njskatchmo; 01-15-2006 at 09:34 PM.
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Old 01-16-2006, 10:57 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by njskatchmo
Where can i find the castrol stuff?

(edit)

I've read that original it was 75-80 castrol hypo C and they discontinuted it. Will it affect performance with 80-90. Should i go with valvoline 75-80?

......NO
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Old 01-17-2006, 07:57 AM   #13
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does anyone buy the drain bolt sealant from subaru? or should i just use anti-seize or something else.
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Old 06-16-2006, 08:31 PM   #14
kenyaboy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brentlz
I used a 4" funnel propped into the passenger side mount of my STi titanium strut brace with a short piece of scrap hose from the funnel on down into the filler neck. Draped a couple old rags around the funnel & filler neck to catch any spills.

Might want to warm up the new gear oil 1st, as it flows _real_ slow. I sat the bottles in the kitchen sink full of hot tap water for a half hour or so. Dry off the outside of the bottles before filling up the trans.

When doing the rear diff:
-Take out the filler plug (upper one) 1st before draining the diff!
-Have a long 1/2" drive breaker bar handy as the plugs can be in tight. I put the car on ramps to get extra leverage room and more stability than jack stands.
-Handy to have a pump...I used a cheap one from AutoZone that mounts onto the gear oil bottle. Took many pumps to fill it back up. ;-)
-I have the Primitive rear diff guard, so I used another piece of scrap hose jammed into the drain hole down to a catch can to minimize the oil caught by the diff guard when draining out the old oil.
-I didn't use any sealant on the plugs, just a bit of anti-seize on the threads...no leaks seen.

Brent.

WHY WOULD YOU USE JACKSTANDS????????????
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Old 06-16-2006, 08:35 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenyaboy
WHY WOULD YOU USE JACKSTANDS????????????
what would you suggest we use if we don't have a lift then?
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Old 01-05-2008, 11:48 AM   #16
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--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Quote:
Originally Posted by kenyaboy
WHY WOULD YOU USE JACKSTANDS????????????

what would you suggest we use if we don't have a lift then?


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06-16-2006, 09:26 PM #207
totalburnout
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--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Quote:
Originally Posted by kenyaboy
WHY WOULD YOU USE JACKSTANDS????????????

Uh because he wanted the car on a level surface.

If you have something with an even surface, thats ideal so the lubricant doesn't flow everywhere.

On ramps the way the lubricant leaks is going to be unpredictable and it will eventually shift and some of it may not come out.

Jackstands on a level surface, both raise to the same level, is ideal.

Even more ideal is a lift.

...and best yet if you're a small guy like myself, then just crawl under there and the car will naturally be level.








sorry was a bit hungover when i wrote that i have no idea what i was thinking ? i ment to put why would you use ramps...lol...yea i smak myself with the stupid stick

"I put the car on ramps to get extra leverage room and more stability than jack stands."

either way whatever works for you is best...sorry guys

Last edited by kenyaboy; 01-05-2008 at 12:00 PM.
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Old 06-16-2006, 09:26 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenyaboy
WHY WOULD YOU USE JACKSTANDS????????????
Uh because he wanted the car on a level surface.

If you have something with an even surface, thats ideal so the lubricant doesn't flow everywhere.

On ramps the way the lubricant leaks is going to be unpredictable and it will eventually shift and some of it may not come out.

Jackstands on a level surface, both raise to the same level, is ideal.

Even more ideal is a lift.

...and best yet if you're a small guy like myself, then just crawl under there and the car will naturally be level.
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Old 01-17-2006, 03:00 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Scotty
...juust do it....and remember.....do NOT dump 4 qt in the tranny!!!!!!!!

That WILL overfill it---bad juju...
w3rd. Letting the transmission drain for 30 minutes or even an hour or 2 won't get all the fluid out. Thick fluid plus lots of gears (for lots of surface area for the fluid to stick to) means you'll have to let it drain at least overnight to get the majority of it out.
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Old 04-24-2008, 10:34 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Psydotek View Post
w3rd. Letting the transmission drain for 30 minutes or even an hour or 2 won't get all the fluid out. Thick fluid plus lots of gears (for lots of surface area for the fluid to stick to) means you'll have to let it drain at least overnight to get the majority of it out.
What if your transmission is piping hot?
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Old 02-27-2006, 01:34 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Scotty
...juust do it....and remember.....do NOT dump 4 qt in the tranny!!!!!!!!

That WILL overfill it---bad juju.

Add ~3.3 - 3.4...drive the car---check....repeat a couple times....make SURE it isn't too much before ya add more.

Add the lube SLOWLY into the dipstick tube or you WILL get more UNDER the car than IN the tranny

...and the rear diff can use GL-5 whatever.....I'd use a syn like M1
Should we pour in the full bottles of shockproof and synchromesh and use the hypoC for "topping off"? Or should we pour them in in equal proportions?

Does overfilling hurt anything or does it just make a mess of your floor?
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Old 02-27-2006, 06:12 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by athakur999
Should we pour in the full bottles of shockproof and synchromesh and use the hypoC for "topping off"? Or should we pour them in in equal proportions?

Does overfilling hurt anything or does it just make a mess of your floor?
Well, if you put 1 quart of each in you are gonna be pretty close to full. Overfilling is definetely not recommended, it might not do damage but will not promote proper operation. In order for your bearings and synchros to perform correctly, stick to the full line on the dipstick.

I did exactly what you said, and it worked very well. It ended up being about 1.2 quarts of hypoyC and a quart of both the others. So it was really only a difference of .2 quarts which is almost equal proportioned
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Old 08-22-2006, 11:24 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Scotty
...juust do it....and remember.....do NOT dump 4 qt in the tranny!!!!!!!!

That WILL overfill it---bad juju.

Add ~3.3 - 3.4...drive the car---check....repeat a couple times....make SURE it isn't too much before ya add more.

Add the lube SLOWLY into the dipstick tube or you WILL get more UNDER the car than IN the tranny

...and the rear diff can use GL-5 whatever.....I'd use a syn like M1
When you say dipstick... do you literally mean a dipstick in yoru tranny? or the dipstick where your motor oil is?
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Old 08-22-2006, 11:28 PM   #23
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look under where the turbo is and you should see a small dipstick hidden down there on the side of the trans. at least thats where it is on my 04 sti idk about others
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Old 08-22-2006, 11:31 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EROC263
look under where the turbo is and you should see a small dipstick hidden down there on the side of the trans. at least thats where it is on my 04 sti idk about others

thanks! also, do you use this cocktail in your rear diff as well... since your tranny and front diff use the same resevior, im geussing the rear diff is safe with the cocktail as well?
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Old 08-22-2006, 11:33 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jc8587
When you say dipstick... do you literally mean a dipstick in yoru tranny? or the dipstick where your motor oil is?



donotputanygearlubeintheoildipstick!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!1

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