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Old 05-06-2006, 07:01 PM   #1
LetItSnow
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Question The Perfect Power Experience

If you're arriving from the White Paper thread, please be aware that, when using the crankshaft sensor wireup, coilpack burnout is impossible as a result of the use of a PP6.

With the disappearance of Rallitek's forum, I'd like to try to replace its Perfect Power SMT6 section with this thread.

If you have a technically positive or negative experience (hardware, not customer support), if you're in the install process, or if you're shopping it up, this is the place. And please, let's try to stay on topic? (8/19/06)

My status: All that remains in my installation is the placement of restraints for the wiring. (9/24/06)

Please be aware that, although much of this information will apply to many other Subarus, and even other makes of cars, sandrails, lawnmowers, etc., it is primarily geared around installation into a "turn-of-the-millenium +/- a few years" NA Subaru. There are a few different ways to do it in this application, as well, but for best results, I believe this is the way.

Links:
Link to my project progress, slightly behind in updates. (7/11/06)

Perfect Power webpage (7/11/06)

Perfect Power forums (7/11/06)

Downloads for the Perfect Power SMT6 documentation. (7/11/06)

Configuration information, to the best of my knowledge. (8/27/06)

Proper installation, complete, one way or another. COMING SOON. (9/24/06)

Pursuit of the End of the Coilpack Carnage:
Experiment 1: Measuring the ignition output. (7/15/06)

Experiment 2: Ignition output resistors. (8/7/06)

Experiment 3: Testing various resistance values, and examining size and shape of the waveform signal. (8/20/06)

Experiment 4: The final concept, and its dismal pre-failure. (9/24/06)

META: PP6 Perfect Power 6 SMT6 Smart Tuner PerfectPower PerfectPower6 Rallitek EM ECU coilpack dead crack install questions problems idle misfire stumble rich lean wiring AFR air fuel ratio

Last edited by LetItSnow; 10-01-2006 at 12:26 AM. Reason: Added links
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Old 05-07-2006, 09:43 PM   #2
reddevil
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DO NOT LEAVE THE KEY IN THE ON POSITION WITH THE ENGINE OFF!!!!!

Yeah, it will fry the ignitor. Been there, done that. It doesnt happen instantly, but it does happen.

The SMT6 works great for me. The only thing I cant get it to do is advance timing. It hesitates and stumbles badly. But then again, I actually only want that off boost. It does a wonderful job of pulling timing on boost.
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Old 05-08-2006, 06:45 AM   #3
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well I never delt with the smt systems. but I have delt with there ems systems. heres my story on them
about 3 years ago i built a engine for my toyota, I looked over about 5 different ems systems out there, and was told the prs system was the easiest to work with I talked with tuners, and perfect power about 3 times i explained to them want i built and my future plans ect.. and they reccommended me to use there prs8 system it was the best version of the prs line had more outputs ect. They gave me a outstanding price and i bought it right away. I get it it took me a couple weeks before i had time to wire it up. got it all wired up made a base map just to see if the engine would start. it started right up but was backfiring and running VERY rich. I was running large injectors 870cc and direct fire ignition, as i tried to turn the fueling table down it froze up on me the car stalled and smoke pored out the unit. I spoke with a local distributor who was the most helpful through this experience they took my system and sent it back for me... about a month later i recieved a phone call from them telling me they wouldnt cover the system under warrenty because they cant take it apart and the injector drivers dont work so they cant fix it. I fought with them for about a week and talked to the distributor I bought it from finally he got them to send me a new unit about a 2 months after i sent mine out the new system came in. I met with the distributor and we bench tested the system with my harness and all my sensors, everything worked great on the bench we did have a problem with the timing at low rpms (below 300 rpms) they told me the signal from the dizzy was to week and could create a problem. I was a little mad at that point as pp told me this system would work fine on my car. I took it home and put everything back in the car. tried to start it and my ignition was all messed up... I called the local tuner/distributor and they helped me once again over the phone. we went throught everything and couldnt come up with a solution finally they asked me to just come back down with everything so we can bench test it again.
They are closed on sundays so the tuner saw that as a great time to meet up, as he wouldnt be stuck in a dyno or anything. we bench tested it over and over again. he put the cam/crank sensor on a scope and we still had a problem with the low voltage trigger on low rpms.. he told me to try to replace my wires for that with really good shielded cables so maybe i can get rid of any interference while cranking the car.
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Old 05-08-2006, 06:50 AM   #4
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I went home and redid that wire, and still same problem. again keep in mind i was told it would work fine on my car. the car sat for months i didnt touch it because i was so dissapointed. finally i talk to another tuner and they tell me to get this part that will amplify the signal, i do just that and it really helped it still wasnt perfect but for the most part the igntion was much better while cranking. I get everything back together and try to get a dyno tune scedueled. next available date was about 2 months away. I waited patiently.
day of the dyno. I towed the car for almost 3 hours to the shop get there. unload the car the tuner comes out to take a look at the car. asked me to try to start it. i cranked it for about 10 sec. it started backfiring didnt want to start ect. which had me confused because 2 months ago it was starting up. I explained that to the tuner and they told me I deffiently had a ignition problem. I showed him where the system was where the ignition system was ect.. then he asked me to pop the hood, and thats when he said "were going to have a problem" I asked why he said because the older prs systems wont do coil pack well. he said i wont even try to dyno it with them because its a waste of time. He gave me two options either put the car back on the trailer and go home or go to the nearest autoparts store and buy a coil dizzy cap rotor ect. and switch everything back for one coil. I really didnt want to do that but i been waiting so long for this that I couldnt just go home.. so about a half a day goes by i find all the parts i need and get them all swapped. the ignition was much more consistant. but still not perfect, he takes out the cam and crank trigger, and tells me it wont work with this i have to modify the teeth, another 2 hours go by. then another hour to put the parts back in. now its like 3-4pm its been a long day and we didnt even get the car to start. he reccomend for me to leave the car there they would finish up everything and get it on the dyno sometime during the week. I do just that.
about 4 days go by and I figured id check up on progress, I Call them and they tell me its running but they cant seem to lean out the fuel enouph, they ask me if i want them to keep working on it or stop where it is.
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Old 05-08-2006, 06:52 AM   #5
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time equals money and they didnt want me to waste my money. I told them to keep going.
two days later I get a phone call from them i was so excited thinking finally the car is done, just to hear its not done the prs system wont adjust fuel enouph and it washed out the cylinders, come get the car.
I get there have a bill of $800 for there time, which i had no problem paying because i know they are very qualified and did all they could do.
I get in touch with pp regarding these issues
wont work with my larger injectors
wont do multi coils
wont work with stock cam sensor
which are all things that they told me wouldnt be a problem and they basicly agreed that it wouldnt work with that setup and that they couldnt do anything for me. I asked if they would swap it out for a newer system that would, and they wouldnt do that. they tell me to try to sell it and buy a newer system. its been a year now the system is sitting in the garage i cant possibly sell it knowing the pos it is. that would make me a bad person. I wont sell things that are known to be problems.
so in the begining i have a built engine that costed about 3k to do
I buy the prs system and then I have
A ucked engine, a 1000 ems system, a 800 dollar tuning bill.
I ended up buying a jdm clip swapping that engine in with ecu harness ect, back to stock..
I know its a long story but felt as if i should expain everything
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Old 05-08-2006, 07:23 PM   #6
LetItSnow
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I hate to sound rude or ungrateful for your contribution, but I was hoping to keep the discussion Subaru-specific and centered around the PP6. The 2.5L NA application seems pretty well defined; I'm just looking to share some tips among others.
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Old 05-10-2006, 12:39 AM   #7
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Jhull also has 3 posts total. I suspect little frustration being vented.
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Old 05-10-2006, 06:30 AM   #8
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It was all in one post, but then the board wouldnt let me post it because it said i had urls in it, i didnt so i started breaking it up and finally got it all up there...
Im sorry for going off topic, I Feel as a Product is only as good as the company standing behind it. this company knew i was having problems with there unit and they tell me to sell it to someone else and buy a new one... what kinda company does that?
Im more or less just trying to contribute to this comunity with this post, as I dont think it was fair what I went through and Id rather not have to hear about someone else going through it.
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Old 05-11-2006, 07:23 PM   #9
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Any chance you can kinda, you know, condense all that?
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Old 05-12-2006, 09:11 PM   #10
gianttcr
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Exclamation I dunno...

Man, I understand you guys want to keep this thing on topic, and short, but I gotta say that follow-up service has been kind of a pain with both of these companies(R-tek and PP). I am sure Sean and the guy at PP did as much as they could. Unfortunately, it still left something to be desired.
Here we go, I have a MY00 RS Auto with 136,000mi on the dial. Decided I was going to hold onto it because I am one poor B#@$H right now. With that decided, I also decided I was going to get RID of that 3/4 throttle bog (feels like the pump can't keep up) and find some HP. So, I started with Walbro pump. Thought parallel fuel was good idea, so did that. Fuel reg.(38psi), pullies, header, exhaust, plugs/wires? All done. Rebuilt alternator. Did t-belt/idler too, just in case. I got a MY99 intake man. and cleaned it out with dremel and thought I'd be REAL cool by throwing in some MSD 38lb. 12ohm injectors. I'm the coolest guy, right? Wrong! Only went 10lbs bigger on injectors but ECU couldn't cope and I'm washing cylinders and throwing CELs all over! Man, what to do?!?!? I find a Unichip on Ebay for MY02 WRX and figure after talking to the guy that it'll work. Wrong! Find out from Sean at R-tek that ignition is different. Says he has piece to make it work but it won't do what I need anyway, THANKS SEAN!!! I'd heard about SMT6 and ordered it from him as result. He REALLY took good care of me as far as getting parts out and pricing. I thought I was headed for Nirvana! My scooby-doo would run well again AND I could get hp/mileage up. Cool! Not! They send me the piece (which really amounts to nothing more than a parametric EQ for your ECU) and harness/svc. plug and CD(which looks like some British New Wave boot-leg, eh?) and that's it. No instruction manual, no wiring diagrams, no nada. So...I pull diagram from PP's site and wire unit in. I would like to think that I'm pretty inclined mechanically as I did all the rest of this motor work myself, but I was still sweating the ECU rewire because of PP's vague/intricate wiring directions. Got it all in and started car. COOL! It runs! No smoke!
Now, as you can imagine, when I bought Smt I talked to Sean about all of the motor mods to make sure this thing would work and was under the impression that he could program as well because I am certainly a novice at that sort of thing. Well, he finally told me that he didn't have any parameters for my mods due mainly to bigger injectors but that he WOULD include a map of where I should start. Cool, I understand that I have a bit of a Frakenstein now, so...
So I open up the programming with my laptop and find 2 maps, one is the default and one says BMW X5. Well, the default is all "0's" so that ain't helpin'. I figure he just mis-labelled the other one so I download it. Bad Idea! Now that I've got the car running on BMW 8 cylinder Bosch timing and fuel I realize that there is no "undo" button! So, not only did I download the wrong tuning map, I can't go back to at least the Subaru ignition parameters. Can't get it figured out and very close to being stuck in the back of my shop that night. It's a good thing that they include a jumper plug!!! Put that in and head home. Call Sean on Monday and he faxes diagram and global settings and emails me 2 maps. Thanks again dude! Still, no analog min/max or rpm/deflection settings though. And those 2 maps he sent? Useless! Something like 12 boxes on the whole grid are changed and those are richer! What do I do now? Well, I've been doing it by myself since. Emailed PP in Aus. and got conflicting info from that guy and just forgot about what he said. Been tuning ever since with NO direction from anyone. I am sure I have done something unhealthy to motor as it sounds more 1835cc VW than Subaru these days. Got it close but had to back the timing back down to stock in our hot weather. By the way, my timing, injector length, and fuel work in every block, not just open-loop. Don't know why. When it comes to setting globals, PP guy and Sean contridict each other and I'm not sure which way to go and end up having to interpret my own path. Unit is cool but not nearly as consistent as OEM ECU. Seems like it runs better when it is loaded with laptop than without. Long story I know, but I am just under the impression I could have gotten a lot more and not messed up motor with some real guidance. I will sell as many for them as I can, however, because I think in the right hands, there is a lot of performance to be found. Also, at the end of the day it DID make my CELs go out. Hopefully, it doesn't do the same to my motor in the next few months! Anybody wanna Unichip cheap?!?!
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Old 05-12-2006, 10:01 PM   #11
reddevil
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The "problem" with the SMT6 is that it is NOT plug and play. Just because you bought it, doesnt mean you are going to be able to successfully tune it, much less install it. At the minimum, basic knowledge is needed of how a vehicle is wired, how a MAF/MAP works, and so on.

Base maps are base maps, generally with ZEROs and just set up with the global paremeters setup so the vehicle will start. Sometimes premade maps will work with your car, but more often than not, they need tweaking.

One of the beautiful things with the SMT6 is that it can be wired in and controlled many many different ways to control so much. But that also makes it a serious handful. Basic information inputs used are TPS, MAF or MAP and RPM. Thats 3-4 variables. Now you can also add, for tuning purposes, Engine temp, Watertemp, Exhaust Gas Temp, Intake Air Temp and anything else that runs on a 0-5/0-10 volt output. You can't use them all, but you can use them in different configurations which can get damn confusing.

Unless something was screwy, ALL the manuals and basic wiring diagrams are ON the CD.

Tuning your own vehicle is doable, but just because it can be done, doesnt mean you are going to be able to. The more crazy the mods are, the harder it is going to be. Bigger injectors, bigger MAFs, boost on an NA ecu, are all tough nuts to crack. No wonder almost all piggybacks and standalones are sold only through tuners that tune them. The SMT6 gives you the option to skip the tuner, but also gives you the option of a huge headache.
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Old 05-13-2006, 04:48 PM   #12
gianttcr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reddevil
The "problem" with the SMT6 is that it is NOT plug and play. Just because you bought it, doesnt mean you are going to be able to successfully tune it, much less install it. At the minimum, basic knowledge is needed of how a vehicle is wired, how a MAF/MAP works, and so on.

Base maps are base maps, generally with ZEROs and just set up with the global paremeters setup so the vehicle will start. Sometimes premade maps will work with your car, but more often than not, they need tweaking.

One of the beautiful things with the SMT6 is that it can be wired in and controlled many many different ways to control so much. But that also makes it a serious handful. Basic information inputs used are TPS, MAF or MAP and RPM. Thats 3-4 variables. Now you can also add, for tuning purposes, Engine temp, Watertemp, Exhaust Gas Temp, Intake Air Temp and anything else that runs on a 0-5/0-10 volt output. You can't use them all, but you can use them in different configurations which can get damn confusing.

Unless something was screwy, ALL the manuals and basic wiring diagrams are ON the CD.

Tuning your own vehicle is doable, but just because it can be done, doesnt mean you are going to be able to. The more crazy the mods are, the harder it is going to be. Bigger injectors, bigger MAFs, boost on an NA ecu, are all tough nuts to crack. No wonder almost all piggybacks and standalones are sold only through tuners that tune them. The SMT6 gives you the option to skip the tuner, but also gives you the option of a huge headache.

Well, Well, Mr. Red, it appears you've danced this dance! That was/is EXACTLY the problem, something screwy on the program disc. Riddle me this. When I first downloaded it to my desktop (5 zip files) I could open up wiring diagrams and pick '98 2.5rs. HOWEVER, when I tried to open that I got a "run-time failure" window and the program would shut down completely. Later, when I unzipped the files to my laptop (so, I wouldn't have to tune in the living room) I couldn't even open that icon. Sean later said I shouldn't be able to anyway. He said he sent the thing with parameters already, and he did. I later learned they were in the default map. I may look like a rookie but I think I got the thing pretty well installed for having NO paperwork, nothing everyone SAID should be there, and just a Modus scanner to work with. Of course this may have been at the cost of the motor, we'll see.
I can't tell you how long it took me to pull up ECU pin outs on Mitchells and cross-reference the harness, because I didn't have what you and all other Smt6 purchasers/installers apparently did. I STILL don't completely trust the programming OR the unit since, as I said before, its consistency fluctuates. I don't know if that might be the software or the unit. I went back and checked install. ALL wires soldered and heatshrinked, as well as continuity tested. So, I don't know. Living with it and hopefully it doesn't give up the magic smoke!
What I am saying is that there is NO guide included to even give you an idea of where to start or what things mean, and there should be. For instance, how is anyone supposed to know that "1" corresonds with 1 degree of timing if it's not written anywhere. Sean is really helpful but it's difficult to reach him at 9:00pm. And besides, I would have been HAPPY to pay the guys at R-tek to pretune or even plan a trip to get it tuned correctly. However, when I reviewed the maps he later sent me, I don't think they are much further along than I anyway. To his credit, he told me THAT would be the case.
Speaking of tuning, how are you supposed to set "deflection"? I kept changing everything and screwing it up in an effort to get into the 94% column before Sean told me that it won't usually go in that one anyway! And as far as fuel goes, do YOU have any idea of how much value changes actually change voltage at MAP and what that means? Meaning, if you change those numbers, no book tells you how much each increment changes MAP voltage. I kept getting a flashing A/T temp light for a bad TPS on throttle let off until I realized it was dropping below minimum voltage (.2volts). That was from getting my ranges wrong.
All I can go by is feel to tune this thing. None of reading besides RPM are extremely accurate. For instance, AFR will be chillin' at 14.6 and all of a sudden it spikes to 26.4 and comes down again! WTF is that?!?!? I changed front O2 in effort to see if software would read faster but the O2 output voltage looks like it doesn't move much from a volt anyway. Sure would be nice if I could tune while getting an accurate reading from the O2! Sean basically told me it was a "feel" thing, because I would have to "real-world" tune the car by just driving it. That's cool, I can get my head around that. Unfortunately, "real-world" tuning means that too often you get up into the midrange blocks and all of a sudden the motor is pinging to death and you are sure a valve has just vacated its real estate and wishing you had a third hand to pull the timing back. Gee, it worked last night at that tuning!?!?!
By not having an initial starting point or an idea of what might be too much is how I feel I might have screwed up the motor. It sounds really "tingy" now. Maybe that's why Subaru programs them so rich.
Also, I do not have the "b" map wire hooked up. I just barely found out that it was ground applied, so will be hooking it up to a grounded switch on Sunday. However, you can still see ALL of the available maps in memory by clicking "load tuning map" under file. Believe me, there was no other map in there.
What are my final impressions? I think an "undo/goback" button would help heaps. Also, when you are tuning on the street, it's impossible to avoid all traffic. It would be nice if big changes required confirmation so you didn't accidently put in "-55" instead of "-5" like I did, and kill the motor in traffic. BUT, I think the greatest addition would be a users manual. I have amplifiers in the car that don't even have any warranty unless they are installed by a certified person (which I happen to be) and they STILL come with a tuning manual and describe which knobs/settings do what. I think that needs to be the case here. I understand that some parameters should only be available to the vending tuner, but if you're going to sell a piece like this and say it is user friendly, you need to make it as friendly as is practical. Finally, some consistent advice would be great. Sean told me lambda input could be used for tuning. Cool, I hooked it up. Figured I had to turn it on in Globals and all of a sudden car runs funny. Tried it inverse too, no luck. PP guy says can't use BOTH MAP and lambda. AHhhhHah! True that! PP guy says "interlaced signal" in Global should be "off". Clarifies by sending parameter/ECU pinout sheet. Seans parameters say "on". Turn it off...car runs funny. Who should I listen to next???
I think this thing is cool, I just think it should be a little further along considering how long it's been out. I also wish I could run the car how I had it in the first place (BESIDES BMW map!!!) tons of timing and no fuel, look out Nellie!!!!
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Old 05-12-2006, 11:32 PM   #13
LetItSnow
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I'm pretty sure that the X5 map is batched up in the Windows software. giant, did you wire up the grey wire? When I got my PP6, it did have a blank map installed, as well as the map that Sean had which fit my mods (intake, cat-back).

EDIT: I felt this was a suitable place to insert this, as the post two above implied a shortage of information.

Quote:
This is the information I've compiled for the justification and calibration of the SMT6 in the application of the 2.5L MAP engine. Others may be similar. If there is anything which should be changed or added, please PM these changes to me, and I will enter them. I'd rather not have the thread filled with doubled information. That being said... away we go.
For any references below, here's the guide:

AN = Application Notes (6/05)
DM = Developer's Manual v1.2
IG = Installation Guide v1.2
WM = Windows Tuning Software Manual v7.1

While there is a newer Windows manual, in contrast to v7.1, it contains errors and is less legible.

Be aware that, although the Global Settings do show up in the map files, both maps stored in the SMT6 need to use the same Global Settings! (7/18/06)

Global Settings -> Analog

Fuel Zero Calibration
With the PP6 powered but disconnected from the vehicle, measure the voltage between the MAP in and out. Adjust the Fuel Zero Calibration so that the difference is 0.0196V or less.
EDIT: The adjustments are steps of .0392V. The voltage above is corrected. (8/27/06)

Fuel Upper Limit and Fuel Lower Limit
These settings match the upper and lower limits of the MAP sensor signal. My settings are 3.6v for high, and 1.2v for low.

Global Settings -> Ignition

Teeth per turn (incl. miss) and Teeth per firing
Mode 12 demands 1 tooth per firing and 2 teeth per turn. DM, p.28

Ignition Adv. Limit and Ignition Ret. Limit
Allegedly, the Subaru ECU will be unhappy with ignition modifications more than 12 degrees. Set for +/- 12.

Ign. Dwell Time
I'm not aware of any reason to change this from zero in this application... sorry.

Global Settings -> Speed

The road speed governor only works with mode 11. Since we're restricted to mode 12, this function is disabled, and these settings don't matter. DM, p.27

Global Settings -> Cylinders

I counted my spark plug wires twice, and got 4 both times.

Global Settings -> Switch

When any of the switch points are exceeded, the orange wire is live, at a maximum of 0.1 amp and 25 volts. To disable any of the setpoints, set them to the minimum level. AN3.6, p.1-2

Global Settings -> Modes

The only mode which will accommodate the dual-signal, wasted spark ignition that Subaru uses in this application is mode 12. DM, p. 15

Global Settings -> System Config

Positive input pol: ON
Positive output pol: ON
The ignition triggers on a "high" signal.
EDIT: Per the advice of PerfectPower regarding experiments for saving our coils, I tried reversing these, and instead of the normal smooth rev when hitting the gas, the engine got all choked up like if it had a temporary loss of fuel or something... this is not the solution. The above settings are correct.

Low level input: OFF
The ignition signal is a waveform, between 1.0 and 3.4V, triggering at a point between. High level input triggers at 2.5V, and low level input triggers at 0.1V, making high level the obvious choice. DM, p.38
EDIT: My findings with the oscilloscope in Experiment 3 have found the signal to switch between 0.3v and 10.2v, instead of 1.0v and 3.4v. High level is still the correct setting. (8/20/06)

Low deviation: ON
High deviation allows for adjustments up to +/-5V (+/-127x.039V). Low deviation allows for adjustments up to +/-1.2V (+/-127x.039V/4). The range on the MAP sensor while the engine is running is .6V, so with low deviation, you can adjust the full range, but with finer adjustments than high deviation. If you've got any maps with high deviation, switch to low deviation and multiply all the map values by 4.
EDIT: In doing this, don't change the scale values, just the 8x16 maps.

Interlaced signal: ON
"The ignition on a 4 cylinder wasted spark system is 'interlaced'". DM, p.34

I prefer to follow the maps that were given to me, and disable any settings which don't influence the application. Here they are, with the reasons why they're not used:

High frequency: OFF
This setting is used in mode 10. DM, p.21

One missing tooth: OFF
Missing tooth applies to mode 1. DM, p.25

Multi coils: OFF
Applies to standalone applications. WM, p.12

Nox injection: OFF
The additional injector isn't used in this application.

Lambda input and Lambda un-linear: OFF
In configuring MAP modification, lambda tuning is not possible.

Scale Settings ->RPM Scale

The minimum value should be no less than 600RPM (WM, p.13). The car should idle on the second row (IG, p.9). The maximum RPM setting should match that of your engine (IG, p.9). The RPM listed on the end of each row indicates the break before moving up a row (WM, p.5); if the end of a row says "2000", then at 2001RPM, the SMT6 will move up to the next row.

If you're using an existing map, make sure you don't disturb the rest of the scale when you make changes. In this application, I advise setting the low value to 600RPM, which will put the map on the second row at idle. Set the maximum value for the highest point you want to tune, your redline, or your fuel cutoff if you head out that way often.

Scale settings -> Deflection

On any map screen, under the deflection scale along the bottom of the map is a reading of the Load Deflection. To calibrate the SMT6 to your car, find the value for that reading when the throttle is completely closed (off the pedal - "LOW" below) and when it is wide open (pedal on the floor - "HI" below). For an even dispersal of range, I advise:

Minimum = LOW+((HIGH-LOW)/8)
Maximum = HI+1

The manual recommends a different method, using automatic tuning (WM, p.13), but it renders the first column all but useless, as any movement of the throttle at all takes it to the next column.

Last edited by LetItSnow; 08-27-2006 at 11:39 AM. Reason: Details
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Old 05-13-2006, 05:14 AM   #14
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Ran some personal bests tonight, all on the SMT6. 1.8 60' time, 14.58 et in the 1.4 mile. All in a 1990 Legacy wagon. Love the SMT6!
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Old 05-13-2006, 07:57 AM   #15
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This question has been answered elsewhere.

Last edited by LetItSnow; 08-18-2006 at 12:07 AM.
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Old 05-13-2006, 09:39 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LetItSnow
OK red, do you have any idea why the PP6 would torch an ignitor or, in instances I've heard (and my own), a coilpack, and do you think there's a way around it?

The SMT6 will/can torch the ignitor because it intercepts the signal, and when the key is on, but motor not running, keeps the "out" signal hot, which hand overheat and cook the ignitor. Or so goes some of my reasoning and understanding.
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Old 05-13-2006, 11:16 PM   #17
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Interlaced signal - see SMT6 Developers Manual v1.2: "The ignition on a 4 cylinder wasted spark system is 'interlaced'."

I don't know about you, giant, but I've downloaded two different Installation Guides, two different Windows Operations Manuals, two different sets of Application notes, a Developers Manual, and a DOS Operations Manual. You need this stuff!

Last edited by LetItSnow; 08-18-2006 at 12:09 AM.
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Old 05-15-2006, 01:51 PM   #18
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I've not used the PP6 but from what I've read it is a great tool but offers, dare I say, too much user interface. I'm running an Emanage blue and it is relatively idiot proof (that is after I figured out how to install it... I wrote the install instructions that are floating around the www). The PP6 (again, from what I've read/heard) strips away some of the safeguards that many of the entry level user tunables have to keep you from blowing things up. In that regard it is more capable and also more capable of being a major headache for the untrained/inexperienced. Correct me if I'm wrong.
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Old 05-15-2006, 07:08 PM   #19
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"I don't know about you, giant, but I've got two Installation Guides, two Windows Operations Manuals, two sets of Application notes, a Developers Manual, and a DOS Operations Manual. You need this stuff!"

Man, Snow! Maybe you got my set for your second set! Yes, can someone PLEASE send me copies of what they feel is pertinent? I would be in debt! I can get you guys a good deal on Redline, Sparco, etc. We are a dealer! With that said, I got almost 390 miles out of a tank with a/c on at 85mph! trailmex@netzero.net, Thanks all!
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Old 05-16-2006, 06:11 AM   #20
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Please be aware that all of these files are available on the PerfectPower website. The link is in the original post in this thread.

Last edited by LetItSnow; 08-18-2006 at 12:10 AM.
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Old 05-16-2006, 12:04 PM   #21
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Snow, the only thing I was able to find on PPs site was a general wire diagram/global settings. Am I just being stupid? I looked at ALL the files they listed for the car and none of them had anything I could use as far as values were concerned. I'll look right now. Thanks for all the help!
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Old 05-17-2006, 04:44 PM   #22
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I had a PP6 and my coil pack cracked. I sold my PP6 before I realized that is was the cause.
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Old 05-17-2006, 11:49 PM   #23
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ALL of the info, software ect...... are available here on the Perfectpower site.


http://www.perfectpower.com/downloads/downloads.asp
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Old 05-18-2006, 04:45 PM   #24
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OK, I looked on PPs site and found nothing more than I used to wire the car in the first place. Nothing tells you whether or not smooth curves should be used from one block to the next. Nothing tells you WHY the O2 sensor reading spikes all of a sudden and AFR goes past 26.4. Meanwhile, the file DOES tell you EVERYTHING you EVER wanted to know about crank triggers. Who cares? If it's in the global settings already, I don't need to know about it. Just tell me how to keep from blowing the car up and having every warning light (that never came on before the install) coming on intermittantly! There is NO trouble-shooting other than to tell you that if it's not working correctly, you must have wired it incorrectly. As I said, I think the piece is powerful but I can't find any straight answers for tuning. I keep having to pull timing with ambient temp climbing. After reading all these forums concerning its performance/issues I am starting to feel like it is a band-aid at best. Anybody know why I might now be getting an "airbag" light??? Car wouldn't start this morning. Saw there was no spark. I pulled the 15amp SRS/ignition fuse and found it blown. Could this piece be starting to create a harness/ECU demon? I am going to go scan it right now, but it looks like my Perfect Power experience may be less than perfect.
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Old 05-18-2006, 05:10 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gianttcr
15amp SRS/ignition fuse and found it blown
on my 5th!
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