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Old 11-08-2005, 10:14 PM   #1
kingtut12
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Default Just completed the DIY "find your leak" tool.

I followed Jorge (RiftsWRX) advice and built my own. Ran about 20psi into it and found 2 leaks. One at the throttle body and another in the inlet (vent hose). I fixed both leaks, but I would have never found them without this.

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

I thought this would have cleared up my stalling issues, but it did not. Thats another issue that I've been battling for several months now. Sorry these pics are gigantic.
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Old 11-08-2005, 10:26 PM   #2
KmanRuffian
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That is awesome man, this is exactly what I need to do. Got a couple questions for you:
Could you list the materials and where you got them? Is the valve just for a tire or what? And how did you secure it in the PVC pipe? I see lots of sealant so I assume it's just glued/sealed in?

Also the other question I have is where is that plugged in to? Turbo inlet? I was thinking of doing this also but wasn't sure where to pressurize the system from and what outlets have to be blocked off so that air won't just escape from the system through a vent hose or whatever. I guess the PCV system is self contained so maybe you don't have to block it off huh?

Thanks much,
-D
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Old 11-08-2005, 10:41 PM   #3
kingtut12
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I have Perrin turbo inlet which is 2.75 inches internal diameter.

I went to Lowe's Home Improvement store to purchase it all, but I'm sure Home Depot or any Hardware store would have it.

List:

Sku# 23306 - 2" DWV Plug MIPT
Sku# 23302 - 2" Cleanout F adapter
Sku# 23360 - 2" Long sweep Elbow

Tire valve stem at Pep Boys
Cement glue and silicone

I glued the DWV into the elbow
Then I dremmeled a hole for the valve into the cleanout adapter.
The valve stem pressure fits and seats into a groove (kinda like a snap-grommet)
Then I put cement glue around the stem just for added strength
Then after it is totally dry, I smeared a generous amount of silicone around it.
Screw the cleanout into the DWV plug, and use a wrench to really tighten that sucker down.

Then I stuck the whole piece into the Turbo inlet and clamped the heck out of it.
I also plugged the 3 ventilation ports on the top of my inlet.

Ran about 10psi through it at first and didn't notice anything. Then I turned it up around 20-25 psi and found the leaks immediately. Fixed the leaks by adjusting pipe and retightening. Did another test and no leaks. Car started up with NO rough idle as it had before. .
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Old 11-08-2005, 10:47 PM   #4
phantomsr
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Did the same thing but I just capped the turbo inlet and pressurized through a fitting in the inlet. He has that pressurized from where the MAF elbo connects to the inlet pipe. Full intake leak check. Much easier than trying to listen for a leak over the running engine. Make sure you don't over pressure. I wouldn't exceed 20 PSI and I only used 15 on mine. Unless you have disconnected the PCV valve you will pressurize the crankcase too.
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Old 11-08-2005, 11:07 PM   #5
RiftsWRX
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Giving credit where credit is due, I have to thank Justin (jnorth85). He is the one who originally made that tester replica for me. It's been a god send.

Jorge (RiftsWRX)
www.ProjectWRX.com
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Old 11-09-2005, 01:49 AM   #6
gpatmac
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Thank you Jorge and thanks Kingtut.
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Old 11-09-2005, 02:12 AM   #7
Ski Bum
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What sort of compressor did you uses? or was is a hand pump?
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Old 11-09-2005, 08:35 AM   #8
kingtut12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ski Bum
What sort of compressor did you uses? or was is a hand pump?
Just a small air compressor tank with the proper nozzle fitting. I filled with air cautiously and checked my PSI with a tire pressure gauge. If you have any leaks, you will definitley hear them. I also sprayed a soapy mixture onto the suspected leak area to really pinpoint it. With the soap you can pinpoint right down to the exact area leaking.
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Old 05-14-2006, 05:42 PM   #9
Vlad
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Sorry to resurect, but did this today and got a humming/buzz from the evaporative system purge valve, that small capsule located in front of the intake manifold, by the back of the alternator.
Did anybody else get that?
Also, I did not think the pressure rised above 2 PSI.
What I did not understand is how do you guys prevent air from leaking past the throttle body. Depending where the engine stopped, valves could be open and the air could just end in the exhaust, no?
Please help me out.
Vlad
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Old 05-14-2006, 08:56 PM   #10
Strng1dah
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kingtut12
Just a small air compressor tank with the proper nozzle fitting. I filled with air cautiously and checked my PSI with a tire pressure gauge. If you have any leaks, you will definitley hear them. I also sprayed a soapy mixture onto the suspected leak area to really pinpoint it. With the soap you can pinpoint right down to the exact area leaking.
You could also get a regulator for your compressor to only let a set psi through.
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Old 05-14-2006, 10:10 PM   #11
djerickd
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Nice work, can I borrow it? seriously!
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Old 05-14-2006, 11:13 PM   #12
nhluhr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vlad
Sorry to resurect, but did this today and got a humming/buzz from the evaporative system purge valve, that small capsule located in front of the intake manifold, by the back of the alternator.
Did anybody else get that?
Also, I did not think the pressure rised above 2 PSI.
What I did not understand is how do you guys prevent air from leaking past the throttle body. Depending where the engine stopped, valves could be open and the air could just end in the exhaust, no?
Please help me out.
Vlad
I also got that buzzing on my roommate's 04sti when i tested his. I assumed it was normal at the time but he does have a weird hunting-idle issue.
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Old 05-15-2006, 09:26 AM   #13
Vlad
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A while ago I did the work with removing the intake manifold, to fix the cold fuel leak. I did it with the factory manual.

One thing that the factory manual did not mention, is that there is a direction of installation of that valve, for the 2 lateral hoses.
There's a little arrow on it and it's marked E/G. I re-checked the manual and could not find clear directions on how it should be hooked up, except for reading the main diagram. Anyway, the arrow was pointing in the wrong direction, towards the manifold. I tool the valve out and tried it and it seemed to close fine. But I may have to replace it.
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Old 05-15-2006, 11:56 AM   #14
subieworx
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Wow, that's complex.

I would have just mad (and have for my dsm in the past) a small cap that would fit inside the inlet (where you have it connected) with a rubber valve stem made for wheels. Costs $2 and only involves drilling a hole in the cap for installation.
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Old 05-15-2006, 01:11 PM   #15
Sir_Xenon
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excellent, been meaning to do this for a while.... but, what about leaking out of valves that are open in the engine? I'm surprised it works, will have to give it a try
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Old 05-15-2006, 03:32 PM   #16
nhluhr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subieworx
Wow, that's complex.

I would have just mad (and have for my dsm in the past) a small cap that would fit inside the inlet (where you have it connected) with a rubber valve stem made for wheels. Costs $2 and only involves drilling a hole in the cap for installation.
That's what I did. The 2" size actually jams in very tightly.
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Old 05-16-2006, 12:07 PM   #17
remowgn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sir_Xenon
excellent, been meaning to do this for a while.... but, what about leaking out of valves that are open in the engine? I'm surprised it works, will have to give it a try
As long as the throttle plate is closed and the leaks are bigger than what would leak by it, the leak detector will still come in handy. I'll be trying this out myself, I think i have a few leaks.
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Old 05-16-2006, 02:53 PM   #18
Vlad
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So maybe the throttle plate should be "helped" with a rubber cap on top of it. The pressure on my hookup never exceeded 3.5 PSI. I would want at least 15.

First, I forgot to explain that even after I reversed the valve I was talking about earlier, there still was a buzz when I was pressurizing, only with a different pitch. So, either the valve is just not working right anymore, or it's normal.

Second, as I was pressurizing, the pressure did not go up past 3 PSI, but when I would release the compressor chuck the tire valve would hold 3.5 PSI for a while. I could even walk to the trunk, bring the tire gauge, come back and still measure 3.5. It's just that there was no way to go up in pressure, almost like something was venting (nowhere visible) as fast as the tire compressor could pump in and was stopping venting at 3.5. I was spraying soapy water all the time.

One thing I heard and believe might be true, is that all motors stop in the same respective position, every time. A mechanic once pressed out the starter toothed crown off the fly wheel, because it had a dammaged sector and then re-pressed it at a different position of the bad sector and that took care of the problem.
If this is true you will, for example in a 6 cylinder have the engine stop in such way where a pressure test is possible, because valves are closed, while a 4 cylinder always stops with valves open. What do you guys think?

Last edited by Vlad; 05-16-2006 at 03:14 PM.
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Old 05-16-2006, 05:51 PM   #19
nhluhr
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i find it unlikely that an engine would stop with both intake and exhaust valves open.
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Old 05-16-2006, 06:12 PM   #20
qoncept
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A buddy of mine apparantly used a spinach can tapped similarly instead of the PVC pipe there. Should save you a buck or two and I hear it makes you tougher.
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Old 05-16-2006, 07:21 PM   #21
01G_WRX_02
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i really need to do this to my car, for some reason i think i have a leak somewhere
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Old 05-17-2006, 05:37 PM   #22
Sir_Xenon
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Ah man how perfect is this solution... I know I have a leak 'cause the sound of the engine at WOT isn't raspy/angry like it was before. It's hard to explain but you can tell if it isn't "pressurized" enough.
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Old 06-08-2006, 12:19 AM   #23
jdgrimm
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ok. so i build this exact setup tonight and i couldnt get any psi when i tried to fill it up. i didnt know how much to put it but i one point i probably pumped in 20-30 seconds worth of air and it didnt even read anything. i just took the airbox off and hooked it up to my turbo inlet and gave it a whirl.

anyone have any ideas?
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Old 06-08-2006, 01:37 AM   #24
mnrstrider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdgrimm
ok. so i build this exact setup tonight and i couldnt get any psi when i tried to fill it up. i didnt know how much to put it but i one point i probably pumped in 20-30 seconds worth of air and it didnt even read anything. i just took the airbox off and hooked it up to my turbo inlet and gave it a whirl.

anyone have any ideas?
Nope no ideas, but I though I bump this, because I plan on building one or borrowing one locally soon I know I have a leak, I gotta find it.

-Nick (xcelor8 on mnsubaru)
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Old 06-08-2006, 08:58 AM   #25
Vlad
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I'm going th try again, this time with crankcase gases recirculation blocked off.
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