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Old 11-27-2005, 08:15 PM   #76
generalwrx
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thanks for the info guys.
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Old 11-27-2005, 08:20 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by generalwrx
has anyone tried the spray foam type stuff?
I'm not so crazy about the foam because it is very hard to control. And if you get the expanding type and it gets away from you, you can actually deform panels and pop stuff out you don't want to pop out. And it's just a big mess.

Roof rails are an interesting notion. Anyone have technical details on the removal procedure?
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Old 11-28-2005, 02:03 AM   #78
drees
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JPX
Roof rails are an interesting notion. Anyone have technical details on the removal procedure?
Do a search, is has been covered many times before.
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Old 11-28-2005, 02:23 AM   #79
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BryanH,

how much material and spray did you need for the roof? i'll be doin the roof rail deletes soon and since i have to pull the head liner i thought i might as well add some sound deadening* (*sp) at the same time.

Last edited by Bishop; 11-28-2005 at 03:06 AM.
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Old 11-28-2005, 03:04 AM   #80
drees
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Wasn't me that did the roof, it was BryanH.
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Old 11-28-2005, 03:05 AM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drees
Wasn't me that did the roof, it was BryanH.

aahh thx...
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Old 11-28-2005, 07:10 AM   #82
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No spray. Just 2 layers of regular old stick on stuff. Heated up nicely with a heat gun on a REALLY well cleaned surface and it is STUCK on for good.
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Old 11-28-2005, 01:58 PM   #83
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I *added* roof rails, and a layer or Raamat and Ensolite while I had everything apart. I did not notice any additional noise coming from the rails after I put them on, but the roof is a lot quieter in the rain, for sure. Haven't added deadening to any other parts yet, but the doors will be done this spring, when I upgrade speakers.
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Old 12-06-2005, 08:50 PM   #84
bcristea
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Raamaudio,

Just a quick question,

How do you evaluate your installs to determine if what you have done has made an actuall improvement?

I always see posts about people adding massive amounts of dynamat or other materials to the whole vehicle but I'm wondering how people know whats the best?

Does this not depend on what your trying to achive? ie road noise, wind noise ICE?

I know for power people do use dyno's for baseline runs then add mods and run again to see what the effects were.

What test do people do for evaluating sound deading materials added to the car?

Thanks,
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Old 12-06-2005, 09:47 PM   #85
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SPL meters work great, cheap ones can be had from Radio Shack for about $50 that will do the job. Higher SPL meters are considerably more expensive but when ambient noise levels are in the 70-90 dB range, you're not talking anything fancy.....

I've seen posted #'s for an STi in Motor Trend (i think it was), 70 mph was 74 dB if I remember right.... which for an average car is TERRIBLE........
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Old 12-07-2005, 12:31 PM   #86
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Not alot of science needed, just drive the car and listen, the STI is a very loud car and it takes a bit more effort to track down the source of the noise. Since I have already done two deadening jobs on them I pretty much know where the issues are, why I wrote a specific guild for them. In general though:

1)All cars have alot of road noise from the doors, the best way to combat it is sealing up the access holes, mating and ensoliting that area. None needed on the outside if you do not care about audio or have no speakers in that particular door.

2)Sedans get a fair amount of road noise from under the rear parcel shelf, if no subs in the trunk then just seal that up really well, the STI is terribly noisy in that area.

3)Wagons and hatches are a bit tougher to deal with but treating the hatch like the doors is all that is needed for them, then the rear sides on the more resonate prone sections. I like to then do as a minimum the floor but you can cover just the less supported and more resonate areas if you are on a strict weight control plan for the car. Then cover all areas with ensolite. You can put some reall accountical egg crate style panels in voids as well.

4)Lower A pillars next, seal them up will

5)Flor, minimally would be over the resonate areas, softer, give them a thump and see how they sound or just cover the whole floor, it will be even better. Then ensolite it.

6) Roof, on most cars not much of an issue, on some very loud in the rain as has been attested to here, just lining the roof and then the headliner with ensolite will help to a great deal if you do not want to add mat there as well, best to use both but at least just foam will help, I have done so on my projects. Another trick is to bond aluminum channels to the roof then cover with foam, my last one was actually done that way.
Our current project has a one piece carbon/kevlar roof that is already quiter than a steel roof, weight is a major concern for us so we put on one layer of ensolite, one layer of aluminum foil then a second layer of ensolite, worked very well and less than a pound of weight added.

Once you deaden one area well and drive the car the other areas start to stand out more, do the next, hear the remaining ones more again. Once all the primary areas are done then you can focus on any smaller areas, they will be even easier to identify but sometimes difficult to fix.

Then, I like to use a test CD and play individual requencies and low, moderate and high output levels to excite and isolate parts that are prone to resonate while driving. Very easy to find them this way, then use whatever method needed to deal with them, silicone, tie wraps, ensolite(or other foam) double faced tape, etc. Once those are done you are pretty much on the road to a nice quite ride

I have to get back to work, finish packing our glass roof and hood and shipping them out then back to fiberglassing sub enclosures

Rick
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Old 12-12-2005, 03:17 PM   #87
mvorchard
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Lightbulb deadening pictures

Hello there,

I keep coming back to this thread...... but there is one thing missing here... it has only a few pictures... there are several pictures of deadened doors, but there are only a few around threads of the rest of the car being deadened

OK, OK.... I'm trying to get answers to my latest thread, but I guess it is a very good idea by itself... what if we create something like a deadening pictures library?

Many thanks in advance.


Cheers,

MO
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Old 12-12-2005, 03:21 PM   #88
raamaudio
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I am waiting on pics from two STI's so we can build a guide for you guys but it has been quite some time. We have a guide going up on our website as soon as the new one launches and when we finally get the STI pics will write one up just for you. And we will do as much for other Subarus as we can of course

Rick
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Old 12-12-2005, 06:03 PM   #89
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^^^ Can't wait! I've been waiting for a pictoral DIY guide for quite some time!
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Old 12-12-2005, 09:49 PM   #90
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It'll be a little too late for me, but who cares!! That guide will be history the minute it is realesed
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Old 12-13-2005, 09:02 PM   #91
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I am more interested in performace than anything. What in your opinion would be the most bang for the buck without adding alot of weight?
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Old 12-13-2005, 09:25 PM   #92
raamaudio
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Sealing up the rear parcel shelf as totally as possible is the number one priority.

After that, sealing up the doors, on the inner metal panels, from the hollow of the doors.

Then the tire wells in the rear and next the fronts.

Next is the kick panels.

If not concerned with audio you could do all that with alot less than a roll of mat but I would use a few yards of ensolite, weight gain could be kept in the 15-20 lb range doing it that way.

The difference in road noise would be substantial if done properly,

Rick
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Old 12-13-2005, 10:09 PM   #93
mvorchard
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Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by raamaudio
Sealing up the rear parcel shelf as totally as possible is the number one priority.
After that, sealing up the doors, on the inner metal panels, from the hollow of the doors.

Then the tire wells in the rear and next the fronts.

Next is the kick panels.
If not concerned with audio you could do all that with alot less than a roll of mat but I would use a few yards of ensolite, weight gain could be kept in the 15-20 lb range doing it that way.
The difference in road noise would be substantial if done properly,

Rick
Please, please, please....... help me understanding this part fully. My car is a wagon, and now that I'm in the middle of the actual deadening, I'm very lost on how to actually get to the rear wells.


Thanks!!!

MO
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Old 12-14-2005, 12:57 PM   #94
raamaudio
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I have deadend many wagons but never a Subaru one so just do not have any info to help you buddy.

Possibly you can find it in a service manual and other way is that I have had plenty of wagon customers so hopefully one from here can help you out.

Sincerly,
Rick
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Old 12-14-2005, 02:27 PM   #95
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how many lbs does this add?...
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Old 12-14-2005, 09:11 PM   #96
raamaudio
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The weight gain depends on what your goals are, your budget, how carefull you are to treat each area just to the point of where it needs to be, etc, etc.

A basic install that I would do would add approx 22-24 lbs.

A pretty much all out install would double that.

Gonzo, just do not care about weight or budget, maybe three times the basic weight but you would have to be doing more than is ever really needed.

Somewhere in the middle of the basic and all out level is generally the best results for the time and cost invested.

Rick
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Old 12-15-2005, 02:39 PM   #97
alphakry
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Rick - you should travel around holding a sound-deading clinic. Once the NY weather gets nice, i would easily host an all-day meet for locals to come strip their cars apart and quiet them up.
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Old 12-15-2005, 03:04 PM   #98
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That would be fun actually, we were a part of a really big audio clinic team once but it never got off the ground well in the US, it was a hit in Europe though but not in their budget to fly us over for those. We were just going to do one or two on the West Coast, more if things took off but just not enough people willing to pay and it was going to be a great seminar

A clinic over there would be something we would love to do really. If you could get enough cars to spread the cost out a bit it could be very reasonable to conduct. All we would need is plane tickets, a place to crash, a few good local microbrews at the end of the day(s)

I said we as my son is my full time partner now and will take over the business one day, I have him involved in all things we do and he is a great sound deadening instructor, I suppose a bit of pay for his help could be considered appropriate.

If you want to put something like this together we would gladly do it, just to busy to do much more than show up and get the job done and of course get to know some of our best coast fellow enthusiasts in person

Rick
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Old 12-15-2005, 09:31 PM   #99
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I never live near any cool people.
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Old 12-16-2005, 03:13 AM   #100
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Sure you do, yourself I really mean that, anybody(well the vast majority at least) that would buy an STI have to be pretty damm cool in my book!

Rick
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