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Old 08-23-2006, 09:01 PM   #26
RP31
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^^^^

What EM are you using? Cobb? I'd say pull off the coilpacks.
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Old 08-23-2006, 10:13 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diamondsplitter
I will be swapping in a Vf39 this weekend. I would like to know, what is the EASIEST way to keep the car from starting so I can prime the turbo?
Pull the fuse for the ignition, crank the car for about 5-10 seconds at least 3-5 times.
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Old 08-24-2006, 12:34 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tankerWRX
Funny thing is that car will be in Cincy soon. No really. I deploy to Iraq this fall and my parents will be holding it for me.
Yup, it was an inside joke. I'll be helping your dad install an exhaust on his rex soon. - J
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Old 08-24-2006, 08:36 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tankerWRX
Pull the fuse for the ignition, crank the car for about 5-10 seconds at least 3-5 times.
Good tip! I gotta remember that one...
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Old 08-24-2006, 11:13 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RP31
^^^^

What EM are you using? Cobb? I'd say pull off the coilpacks.

Yes, I have a Cobb Accessport.
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Old 08-24-2006, 10:55 PM   #31
tankerWRX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by compressor_guy
Yup, it was an inside joke. I'll be helping your dad install an exhaust on his rex soon. - J
Aha I was wondering if that was you.
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Old 08-25-2006, 01:56 AM   #32
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awesome!
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Old 08-29-2006, 12:14 PM   #33
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I installed everything as indicated here - fyi the STi restrictor pill did not need to be drilled. It was already slightly larger than the 0.043" drill bit.

It boost creeps badly - in 3/4/5th gear at about 5k it fuel cuts like a mofo.

Factory boost guage is reading about 18.5 psi.

How the heck can this be fixed?? I've read - -use cat, port wastgate, tune it out. Does anyone really know?

I hate to ty 4 differtn things that don't work. Anyone else w/ similar issues?
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Old 08-29-2006, 05:25 PM   #34
tankerWRX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by infantsam View Post
I installed everything as indicated here - fyi the STi restrictor pill did not need to be drilled. It was already slightly larger than the 0.043" drill bit.

It boost creeps badly - in 3/4/5th gear at about 5k it fuel cuts like a mofo.

Factory boost guage is reading about 18.5 psi.

How the heck can this be fixed?? I've read - -use cat, port wastgate, tune it out. Does anyone really know?

I hate to ty 4 differtn things that don't work. Anyone else w/ similar issues?
According to the map notes from COBB if the restrictor is not 0.043" you will have boost issues. So, you say the stock STI pill is larger and does not need to be drilled. This also means you are using a restrictor that is not 0.043"... that might be the source of your problem. Just a shot in the dark.

I drilled mine to the #57 bit and have not had any problems, but I am also using a downpipe with a high-flow cat.
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Old 08-29-2006, 05:44 PM   #35
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i here ya - it's 'barely' bigger - the bit only just slides in. Bur befroe I go buying a pill and driling it I'd like to see what is really going on.

If I could understand the dern control system it would be easier to guage what to do. If I understand it the pill is used to damp the response so that the ECU does not overshoot it's targets.

And surely it is sensitive - it over-boosted much worse on day 2 when it was cooler.

Do you have this issue? Have you been on a road course where high load runs are semi-continuous? I'm not challenging - just looking for answers. I have a pretty strong feeling that going to get another pill and driling ti won't fix it. The idea that the wastegate can't flow enough and needs porting makes more sense to me.

A stage 2 STi exhibits similar behavior?? (Given some arguables that is at least very close to correct)

hmmm

It is quite nicely powerful though - so I think it's a great combination of minimal lag and goop power - PLENTY for the road course. Just got to get it sorted - fuel cut doesn't feel good at all.
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Old 08-30-2006, 11:46 AM   #36
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If anyone doing a vf39 swap needs a #57 drill bit, send a self addressed stamped envelope to me, and I'll send you one. I have a few extra laying around. Just trying to help out. Pm me for my address. BTW, Did my swap last weekend. AWESOME


EDIT: Went to the track, dang clutch wont hold now! BOO!!

Last edited by diamondsplitter; 09-03-2006 at 09:14 PM. Reason: Went to track, clutch not holding!
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Old 09-20-2006, 03:06 PM   #37
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does any year STI tmic fit the 06'? what is required for fitment?
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Old 10-01-2006, 08:21 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diamondsplitter View Post
If anyone doing a vf39 swap needs a #57 drill bit, send a self addressed stamped envelope to me, and I'll send you one. I have a few extra laying around. Just trying to help out. Pm me for my address. BTW, Did my swap last weekend. AWESOME


EDIT: Went to the track, dang clutch wont hold now! BOO!!
How about paypal for 5 bucks or something, I am in Afghanistan?

As for the oil line, if the VF39 I bought doesnt come with one, do you have a link to where to get it and cost? Also, if you modify it, you didnt say what you would have to do or why?

Is there any differences doing this on the 05?

Last edited by Matth3w; 10-01-2006 at 08:28 PM.
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Old 10-01-2006, 08:48 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomnel View Post
Thanks! theres nothing like seeing pics and a step by step before tackling this for the first time.
+12345


Subscribing this for when I pull my turbo for WG portage!
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Old 10-02-2006, 11:59 AM   #40
tankerWRX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matth3w View Post
As for the oil line, if the VF39 I bought doesnt come with one, do you have a link to where to get it and cost? Also, if you modify it, you didnt say what you would have to do or why?
I think this is the one you need. http://www.subaruparts.com/cart/?pn=15197AA060

Part #15197AA060

As for modifying it you basically just drill a hole because the spacing for the bolts are different.
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Old 10-02-2006, 12:05 PM   #41
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i got a message saying mine comes with the part so thanks a million
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Old 12-24-2006, 02:49 PM   #42
lancelucas
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Dug this up from the dead to give a few thoughts...

Did a VF39 install yesterday. Thanks for the pics and instructions, it went very easy with the guidance of this thread.

- Do not loosen/unbolt the turbo from uppipe until after you have taken off the coolant lines. I did, and ended up with some (not much) coolant running down into the uppipe. Not a big deal, but I would have avoided it if I had thought about it before hand (doh!).

- For some reason, when my TurboXS uppipe was installed by anonymous local vendor X, they double-gasketed the UP-Turbo (one old, one new :/). I used a single new gasket and torqued to 35lbs. No leaks.

- I found it easier to remove the hard oil line from the block and turbo than to bend it out of the way. I feared breaking it more than the difficulty of reinstalling it, which was a PITA and took quite awhile. If you have the time, I'd think about removing it entirely.

- My TD04 had washers on both sides of the banjo bolts, so I reassembled the same way.

- Before tightening the turbo onto the uppipe, reinstall the passenger side TMIC bracket. It's a PITA to tighten the bracket bolt that is underneath of the coldside outlet once the turbo is fastened down.

- Both of my coolant lines leaked at the turbo after reinstall. The hoses are older and have 47k miles on them, so replacing them may have solved the problem. I took the easy route and hose-clamped both lines on the turbo side, done deal.

- I bought new vacuum-lines/T/pill from Subaru and used Zip-Ties on the inline coupler where it connects to the factory BCS to ensure I didn't have any boost control issues on the plumbing side.

- This might be just my mind playing tricks on me: The coldside outlet appears to be slightly offset of my TD04, which made the passenger side of my OEM TMIC sit closer to the firewall on that side, and miss the bracket. I pushed the IC hose further onto the pass side y-pipe deal and it fits fine now.

Good luck to all!

EDIT: My swap was on a 2L, so a few things might be slightly different.

Last edited by lancelucas; 12-24-2006 at 02:59 PM.
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Old 02-25-2007, 02:10 AM   #43
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great info here, vf39 swapping soon
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Old 02-25-2007, 02:31 AM   #44
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just did mine the other week, it went in/out easy as pie, even in 20 degree weather at night in the parking lot of my apt...

local ace hardware had plenty of irwin #57 bits.
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Old 02-25-2007, 10:30 AM   #45
El Capitan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by equipment junkie View Post
If you look at the picture shown a couple of posts above (from the cobb ap info) - you'll see where the pill is supposed to be. If for dome reason there is no pill inside the particular vacume line as indicated in the photo - you should be able to purchase one from your loca Subaru dealership.
Drill it out as described, place it into the vacume line - lube it with silicone spray (or even some light oil) - push it into the vacume line 1/2 " to 3/4". Obviously, you want to make sure that the
drilled hole in the brass pill is aligned with the vacume tube to allow air to pass throught it (I know it sounds pretty obvious - but I've seen simpler things screwed up!)
While I worked at Trollhattan Motors (a SAAB & Volvo place) a few years back, we had learned from the Bosch School in California that silicone spray should not be used anywhere it could be sucked into the engine. In small amounts it is supposed to casue the Lambda to prematurly fail or give bad readings and in large amounts will casue it to go haywire almost right away.

Are there and chemists out there who can confirm? Regular O2 sensors are expensive enough, I'd hate for some one to prematurly ruin a wideband.
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Old 03-01-2007, 04:15 PM   #46
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I have a Cobb 2 stage ECU reflash and was interested in upgrading my turbo to a VF-39. How much more power will I get? Will I have to swap out the injectors as well as other internals?

thanks in advance for answering my q's.
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Old 03-01-2007, 04:16 PM   #47
RP31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t3ch9 View Post
I have a Cobb 2 stage ECU reflash and was interested in upgrading my turbo to a VF-39. How much more power will I get? Will I have to swap out the injectors as well as other internals?

thanks in advance for answering my q's.
We need to know what car you drive.
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Old 03-01-2007, 07:50 PM   #48
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if you have a 02-05 WRX then you will need new injectors and a bigger intercooler.

if you have a 06-07 then you won't need the injectors.

power range for the OTS cobb maps can vary especially since we don't know what year you have...on the 2.5L i've seen anywhere from 260-300 at the wheels without a protune.

I'm currently running the OTS map and its ridiculously faster than the stock turbo but my car doesn't like the map much i'm only seeing about 10psi in 1st, 14 in 2nd and 3rd, and then about 15-15.5 in 4th and 5th...boost target for my OTS map is 16.6.
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Old 03-01-2007, 08:14 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sluflyer06 View Post
if you have a 02-05 WRX then you will need new injectors and a bigger intercooler.

if you have a 06-07 then you won't need the injectors.

power range for the OTS cobb maps can vary especially since we don't know what year you have...on the 2.5L i've seen anywhere from 260-300 at the wheels without a protune.

I'm currently running the OTS map and its ridiculously faster than the stock turbo but my car doesn't like the map much i'm only seeing about 10psi in 1st, 14 in 2nd and 3rd, and then about 15-15.5 in 4th and 5th...boost target for my OTS map is 16.6.
That's what I like to hear! My VF39 will be here next week
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Old 03-02-2007, 12:07 PM   #50
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i drive a 02 wrx. Do I have to purchase pink injectors or is there a cheaper alternative. So the stock fuel pump will work with this turbo? Will the cobb 2 reflashed ECU work with the new turbo or should i purchase an access port?
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