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Old 10-06-2006, 12:25 PM   #1
F4tune
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Default 2.5L/2.2L build

Thought some of you guys maybe interested in this?

Firstly I'm not an engine builder by trade. Sure I've been working on cars for over 20yrs. I've built a various engines.

This is my first Subaru engine build. I have three 2.5L short blocks, one 2.2L short block, four 2.2L heads, two sets of 1.8 cams and rollers and all the other stuff needed to build an engine.



So first thing is to keep the work area clean, read the workshop book over and over(I use Haynes) and don't rush anything. Check, check ,check before you build. Double check the parts you buy are correct. DO NOT ASSUME ANYTHING .Time wise it takes me about eight months of spare time work to build an engine.PATIENCE gets the job done.

So the Subaru engine to me was a bit of a weird design, me being used to 4 and 6 cylinder engines. So I made a point of call all the local engine builders and bugging them for any info. Some gave it others did not. First thing I found out was the pistons come out first and each piston is sized by the letters on the block top below the alternator.Mine was AAAB.Important if you buy new pistons. You have to take off some plugs/covers to get at the wrist pins. I made a tool to pull the pins by getting a long coach bolt from Home Depot and gripping it with some vice grips. Worked a treat. Once that's done it's just a case of splitting the block. Not to bore you with the details as the Haynes book covers it all.

So my plan after reading various threads is the use a Phase II block, Cobb coated bearings, Phase I pistons (square cut out) for safer comp ratio. Turbo oil pump, remote oil filter and cooler. New water pump and belt. 2.2L oil pan.
Once I'd built up the short block it was obvious the pistons cleared the block by a few thou, so using a Phase II gasket was not going to work as the pistons will be way to close to the head. So I opted for the Phase I gasket which is thicker.
While building the block I paid attention to the rods, bearings to make sure there where no tights spots. I double checked the clearances.

The 2.2L heads I did some porting around the valves and much much else. These heads seem to have a good design so no point in ruining that. I did a valve job and replaced the seals etc.I did get the heads surfaced and acid cleaned. The old rockers and cams I junked in favor of the 1.8L and rollors. The cams I sent off to Delta for their mild grind. Once back from Delta I did a lifters check in oil and fitted the good lifters along with the washers that Delta send to make the distance lost after the grind.
Note here that I only ever use engine builders grease to build the engine.
So the heads are done!

Next was bolting all the parts onto the block. Oil pump etc. I checked all the belt rollers which seem in good order. I'm using an Alloy flywheel and semi comp clutch. Also I purchased the kit the convert the input shaft on the tranny to a stainless steel sleeve to help with the clutch action. I have a lightweight pulley. Intake will get a clean up and matched to the heads.

ECU wil be stock, headers will be Ebay specials, high flow cat, 2.5 exhaust system.NGK sparkies, Diamond pack module and high performance leads. Sandard air box with a K+N filter.STI engine mounts.

Although this was a brief report, building this engine took a lot of effort and time.

That's where I am at present. Just about to pop the heads on and refit the engine. This could be a month away, so I report back when it's in.
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Old 10-06-2006, 12:36 PM   #2
mokujin22
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awesome, man. sounds like you have the knowledge and a plan. i may shoot you a PM some time to ask you some questions on my build (finally going to restart after three months of waiting for my engine parts to come in).

good luck,
Tony
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Old 10-06-2006, 01:10 PM   #3
F4tune
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Tony,

Thanks, feel free to PM me. I'm not a Subaru expert but I'm learning. Yeah a plan is a good idea, it's taken me months of thread reading before deciding which will be the most cost effective option. I was worried about the HC giving me problems , although some folks live with it. Depends on location.

Breif costs

2.2L complete engine $200 off local recycler
Spare complete intake off Ebay $40 had Diamond pack Ha Ha
3 X 2.5L blocks $150 2 where bad, one goodish
4 new stock pistons. $55 each
Rings $137
Bearings $155
2 X 2.2L heads $50
1.8L cams + rollers ,turbo pump, plus a few odd bits $200
Delta grind $175
2.2L Ebay head gasket set $50
2.5L Subaru head gaskets $86
Header $169
Various sealants and gease $25
Clutch/Plate $400
Used flywheel Ebay $100
new flywheel plate for above $55
Input shaft conversion $125
High flow cat Ebay $55
Exhaust was a home brew job.
Pulley Ebay $20
Timing belt Subau $86
Oil cooler Ebay $10
remote filter kit $90

Total=$2573 give or take a few $$$

Oh I don't have an engine winch. I just removed the X member/ suspension and dropped the engine down on a trolley jack then onto an old tire. Then dragged it out. Intake has to be remove first for clearance.
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Old 10-09-2006, 12:01 PM   #4
F4tune
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Next step: I matched up the 2.5L head gaskets to the 2.2L gasket. Some water passage areas will be blocked by the 2.5L gasket.
I used a piece of wood the rest the gaskets on then clamped a piece of wood each side of the area being drilled. This helps drilling through the multi layers and keeps the metal dust from going between the layers. Took me 1.5 hours to do one gasket. Then I blew out he gaskets with air and double checked there was no metal in between the layers.

I would post some photo's but have no site to host them.
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Old 10-17-2006, 04:52 AM   #5
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Post them at imageshack.us it is free and then you just copy the forum 1 link they give you into the text of the reply here on the forums. Just out of curiosity what blocks are these 2.5 blocks? Open deck or semi-cloosed like the sti?
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Old 10-17-2006, 07:57 PM   #6
F4tune
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Hey thanks for the tip. I'll try to take some this weekend and post 'em son. Block is just standard Phase II as they are cheap to buy and find.
I have two other Phase I blocks but the cranks are bad.
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Old 10-31-2006, 11:08 AM   #7
CirrusWRX
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Thanks for the writeup! Looking forward to hearing how things progress.
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Old 10-31-2006, 04:52 PM   #8
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Yep ..looking fwd to seeing how it works out too ..and good luck
Cheers
Graham
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Old 11-02-2006, 02:31 PM   #9
F4tune
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Sorry guys for no updates, I've been away for the last four weeks and returned today. I'm going to try and post some pictures within the next few days and get some more work done. Stay tuned!
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Old 11-06-2006, 12:15 AM   #10
F4tune
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So I've got the heads torqued up and have started to put the belt covers and sensors on. I had to compress the belt tensioner. So I jacked up the car and with the help of an axle stand I lowered the car onto the tensioner and stand compressing slowly the tensioner enough to put in a holding pin as per the Haynes manual. Next was the belt and timing.
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Old 11-07-2006, 03:39 PM   #11
F4tune
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Default Photo's

So I hope these photo's work!



This picture shows the 2.5 gasket drilled with some extra holes for the 2.2 head.



Ready for timing belt, but minus tensioner.



Mild porting, most of the work is done around the valve area.



Timing belt covers are treated with plastic bumper primer first to stop the paint peeling.



Next I'm going to install the engine. This will be in the next few weeks as I have to travel again.

Last edited by F4tune; 11-07-2006 at 06:39 PM.
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Old 11-07-2006, 03:58 PM   #12
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Beautiful!!
I've been looking to do a similar setup in my '02 WRX.
What engine management are you going to use for tuning?
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Old 11-07-2006, 04:39 PM   #13
CirrusWRX
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Wow - an EJ22/25 never looked so nice in its life!!!

nxwrxfx - I don't want to answer for F4tune, but he's doing something a little different than what you want to do. He's got a normally aspirated EJ22 (think: about 140hp on a good day) and is mating it up to an EJ25 block (but again, a normally aspirated block, not an EJ25 out of an STi or anything.)

Basically, it's a poor mans, simple upgrade for us 1993-2001 N/A folk with dead or blown engines looking for a little boost in power and the chance to get a cleaned up engine under the hood. He won't need to tune it as the stock ECU will handle everything just fine with >91 octane.
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Old 11-07-2006, 04:42 PM   #14
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So what kind of ballpark power increases are we talking about with this setup? Send me to a link if appropriate.
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Old 11-07-2006, 05:42 PM   #15
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CirrusWRX - Ooooh, i must've missed the NA part. Still, that's a great looking setup! I'm sure i'll be envious of the low end torque from that hybrid versus my stock 2.0L
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Old 11-07-2006, 06:34 PM   #16
F4tune
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Thanks for answering that question. In N/A form this set up bumps up the comp ratio to about 10:8:1 with the Phase II pistons(valve cut outs) the ratio is in the high 11's.I wanted to be safe so went for the dished Phase I pistons.Power with all my mods should be around the 190bhp at the flywheel with standard EUC.
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Old 12-09-2006, 02:00 AM   #17
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forgive me for asking if you mentioned it already but, which 2.5 HG's did you use? I am looking into doing the same build but not sure which gaskets to use. I have an EJ25 DOHC, and two EJ22 engines, all three basically complete, meaning I have all the parts for all three engines. The pisons and rods for the EJ25 are good but the crank is bad due to a spun bearing. The valves from both heads on one of the EJ22's are bad cause the timing belt broke and trashed the valves. The EJ25 is 1998, one of the EJ22's is 97 and the other 98. I've always liked the idea of N/A versus turbo or supercharging cause of the life expectancy and reliability. I have 302,xxx miles on my car and the heads are actually original. I had to replace the block at 220,xxx cause I was getting a horrible oil leak and couldn't figure out what was causing it. So anyways, I've been reading threads in here for months now deciding on what to do and you've (F4tune) helped me in my decision making.
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Old 12-12-2006, 12:49 AM   #18
F4tune
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Sorry for the late reply, I was out of town. Seems like you have much work to do. The 2.5 is in need of a rebuilt as are the heads. If you use a Phase I block pistons the STI gasket will work. If you use a Phase II block with Phase I pistons you will need the thicker Phase I gasket as the pistons slightly come out the block. Phase I block has the thrust bearing in the middle and Phase II at the flywheel end.
Matt Monson is you man in your area for this type of conversion, plus he might have a crank and parts to get you moving.

At present the engine is waiting to be installed but I'm away again until the new year.
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Old 12-29-2006, 02:31 AM   #19
F4tune
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Engine should be going in this weekend if all goes well. Patience helps! Can't wait to get the engine running and at least driving it.
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Old 01-08-2007, 11:10 PM   #20
F4tune
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So I managed to install the engine and fit the remote oil filter. With the main engine cables disconected I went for the oil pressure run. It took several lengthly cranks without the spark plugs before the oil pressure gauge went up to over 50psi. That's were engine builders grease helps. Anyway I had oil pressure, so I went for the engine start. After four turns she fired up and ran sweet with no bad sounds or smoke. Problem was my exhaust was past it's best so the wife cried enough after a few mins. I must say it sounded awesome, better than any scare crow. So now I have one of those OBX header thingies on order. Okay not great, but better than a stock header.
Can't wait to drive the beastie.
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Old 01-09-2007, 02:44 AM   #21
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Sounds awsome. Congrats man.
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Old 02-07-2007, 12:41 AM   #22
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Great thread, thanks much.

I'm thinking of doing this in the near future.

Have you had a chance to take her out on the road see how it does? What are your impressions?
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Old 02-07-2007, 03:38 AM   #23
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If it's anything like the other frankenstein builds...he'll be a happy camper!

Jay Storm
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Old 03-05-2007, 03:39 PM   #24
F4tune
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DONE! It has taken a long time but last weekend I got the engine running and the car on the road. Drove it to the smog were it sailed through much to my surprise! The difference is amazing and the sound is awesome with the equal length headers. OK not the Subie sound but more like a WRC 4 cylinder which I can live with. Anyway the car is now street legal and ready for some serious testing! Problem is I can only drive it at the weekend as I work away in the week.
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Old 03-05-2007, 04:05 PM   #25
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post some pics of the final product pleaseeee
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