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Old 05-02-2006, 07:40 PM   #1
2phless
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Default 2.5 USDM STi master engine gasket Part ID list

I just picked up my master gasket set and it had a factory seal. The last one I got had been pilfered. I'd ordered it from out of town and had a bear of a time ID-ing all the orings that I was missing. That messed up kit, however, came with a parts list (this one didn't) so I went through this one with the list and tried my best to identify all the parts using real-live english words instead of the suba-reviations from the list.

If anyone can fill in any of the blanks. I'm not 100% sure what everything is. I might have gotten rid of some of these o-rings when I swapped for aftermarket parts... or I left a part intact during the rebuild and didn't find that gasket...

Anyway. I hope this helps someone sometime. Have pictures I'll try to add too.

Gasket set part number 10105AA590 Gasket & Seal Kit - ENG

My list key

list number/part number/ part name/ quantity/ what it is or where it goes.

1 / 803928010 / GSKT-28.2x33.5x1 / 3 / silver seals for the 14mm allen block access bolts
2 / 806786040 / OIL SEAL-86x103x10 / 3 / Rear main seal. Why 3? I don't know.
3 / 10991AA000 / O RING-CYL BLOCK / 4 / 3 between block halves. 1 behind oil pump. ** Looks similar to pt # 11 **
4 / 806931020 / O RING-31x2.0 / 1 (but came with 2) / #4 wrist pin access cover gasket (hidden by flywheel)
5 / 806932030 / O RING-32.6x2.7 / 1 / ???
6 / 11034AA000 / WASH-CYL BLK SLNG 6 / for the 6 internal 12mm 12 point block connecting bolts that contact oil.
7 / 11044AA641 / GSKT-CYL HEAD / 2 / Head gasket pair.
8 / 803912040 / GSKT-12x16x1 / 14 / Copper bango bolt washers (except for the turbo oil feed)
9 / 806910170 / O RING-10x2 / 2 / 2 orange gaskets for the bottom of the dipstick tube.
10 / 806917070 / O RING-17.4x2.4 / 1 / oil fill tube to LH valve cover

11 / 11122AA000 / SEALING-OIL PAN / 1 / This goes between the oil pump pickup and block. ** Looks similar to pt # 3 **
12 / 11126AA000 / GSKT-DRAIN PLUG / 1 / A crush ring for the drain plug. Nice of them huh?
13 / 805323040 / CIRCLIP-INR 23 / 8 / Wrist pin circlips
14 / 806742160 / OILSEAL-42x55x8 / 2 / Intake cam seals
15 / 806732160 / OILSEAL-32x55x8 / 2 / exhaust cam seals
16 / 13091AA050 / SEALING-TENSIONER / 2 / *** These are the rubber or foam stickies on the tensioner *
17 / 13091AA060 / SEALING-TENSIONER / 2 / * mount plate that keep dust out of the timing belt area *****
18 / 806939040 / O RING-39.4x3.1 / 2 / AVCR intake cam oil covers (the triangular covers held to the front of each intake cam sprocket by 3 philips/8mm bolts)

The next several part numbers are fairly unidentifiable. They are the foam stickies or rubber edges that seal the
timing chain covers.They have no dimentions or valid descriptions. They either have obvious spots or don't. I've
used RTV for the wishy washy areas before.

19 / 13581AA050 / SEALING-BELT CVR FR / 1 /
20 / 13594AA000 / SLNG-BELT COVER, 2FR / 1 /
21 / 13583AA260 / SEALING-BELT CVR RH / 1 /
22 / 13583AA270 / SEALING-BELT CVR / 1 /
23 / 13583AA280 / SEALING-BELT CVR / 1 /
24 / 13583AA290 / SEALING-BELT CVR RH / 2 /
25 / 13584AA050 / SLNG-BELT COVER, 2RH / 1 /
26 / 13597AA020 / SEALING-BELT CVR / 1 /
27 / 13597AA031 / SEALING-BELT CVR / 1 /

See?

28 / 13592AA011 / MOUNT-BELT COVER / 7 / Snap in rubber coated metal spacers for the t-cover-to-block bolts.
29 / 13207AA050 / SEAL-INT VALVE / 8 / intake valve seals (green???)
30 / 13211AA050 / SEAL-EXH VALVE / 8 / exhaust valve seals (black???) I haven't checked the difference yet.
31 / 13210AA020 / COLLET-VALVE / 32 / Small metal wedges. Dip concave side in thick grease to stick to valves during install.
32 / 13270AA190 / GSKT-ROCKER COVERRH / 1 / Right valve cover gasket.
33 / 13272AA140 / GSKT-ROCKER COVERLH / 1 / Left valve cover gasket.
34 / 13293AA050 / GSKT-ROCKER CVR,2 / 4 / Spark plug hole gaskets
35 / 806733030 / OIL SEAL-33x49x8 / 1 / oil pump to crank seal (front main)
36 / 15048AA001 / SEALING-OIL PUMP / 2 / More rubber pads for timing chain dust control.
37 / 806922040 / O RING-22.1x3.5 / 1 / This may be the recirc valve kneck o-ring
38 / 803942010 / GSKT-42x51x8.5 / 1 / Oil fill-tube cap gasket. (This was a puzzler the first time I saw one)
39 / 21114AA051 / GSKT-WATER PUMP / 1 / Water pump gasket. (Coated Metal)
40 / 21116AA010 / SEALING-WATER PUMP / 1 / And another rubber dust gasket for timing chain area.
41 / 21236AA010 / GSKT-THERMO / 1 / Thermostat gasket. Inner rib snaps around radius of the thermostat.
42 / 21370KA001 / GSKT-OIL COOLER / 2 / Orange and 1 goes between oil cooler and block. #2 included for backup?
43 / 806959030 / O RING-59.6x2.4 / 1 / Blue??? Not sure where it goes.
44 / 806932040 / O RING-32.0x1.9 / 1 / Orange and goes between the two block halves.
45 / 14035AA421 / GSKT-INT MANIF / 2 / *** One of these is the intake to tumblers *
46 / 14075AA160 / GSKT-INT COOL / 2 / * and the other is Tumblers to heads ******
47 / 16608AA040 / SEAL-FUEL INJ / 4 / Lumpy fuel injector seats
48 / 16698AA050 / O RING-INJECTOR / 4 / Lower small diameter injector o-rings ???
49 / 16698AA060 / O RING-INJECTOR / 4 / Upper large diameter injector o-rings ??? (or reversed)
50 / 14038AA000 / GSKT-EXH MANIF / 2 / head to exhaust manifold metal gaskets.
51 / 14022AA160 / GSKT-MF / 2 / Exhaust crossover gaskets? PN may be a typo as 44022AA160 was listed but I don't believe it.
52 / 803910050 / GSKT-10x14x1 / copper turbo oil feed banjo gaskets
53 / 16175AA241 / GSKT-THROT CHMBR / 1 / Blue paper throttle body gasket.
54 / 806933010 / O RING-33.7x3.5 / Water jacket crossover pipe to right and left blocks.
55 / 21896AA072 / GSKT - INTER COOLER / 2 / *** one pair is for the Y-pipe to TMIC, the other *
56 / 21896AA010 / GSKT - INTER COOLER / 2 / * pair is TMIC to recirculating valve. (2 why?) ****

Shew!
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Last edited by 2phless; 05-16-2006 at 07:47 AM.
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Old 05-02-2006, 08:29 PM   #2
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Ok. For pictures I'll get some of the fluff out of the way first.

First and foremost, when you get the box, make sure it looks like this.



If there is more than just 1 layer of brown tape sealing the box, don't bother taking it home.

And inside:



Ahhh. Nothing like the smell of gaskets in the morning. Smells like... wasted money.

But here is the key: Make sure this bag is sealed. This one has no tape on it. If pandora's bag is open, your motor will stay open .



But I'll get back to that in a moment...
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Old 05-02-2006, 08:35 PM   #3
2phless
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This is a large chunk of that unidentifiable foamy crap that seals out the dirt from the timing chain cover. This is one bag's worth. Could be replaced almost completely with RTV.




A few more of those items: They are obvious when you need them.




Throttle body and TMIC gaskets:



Valve covers:



More timing belt cover seals, more valvecover seals for the spark plug holes, and exhaust gaskets:

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Old 05-02-2006, 08:49 PM   #4
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More easy-to-figure-out stuff. Head gaskets, water pump, intake and tumbler gaskets:



The side-feed injector set. The large top o-rings are similar in size to a few other rings. That was apparent when they were missing from my last set since the not-so-good pilfering mechanic couldn't tell them apart from the between-block o-rings.



Oodles of flat metal o-rings. 3 silver for the large allen access bolts if you need to pull the wrist pins. The larger copper washers for all the bango bolts feeding the AVCS, and the two little one for the turbo's banjo bolt.





8 Wrist pin circlips, a billion valve retainers (you might get a little clatter without those) and the 6 seals for the block connecting bolts. (In a real motor those are sometimes called main bolts) These 'washers' are for the 6 12mm 12 point bolts that are in contact with the crankase oil. I think they are accessed from the drivers side of the block IIRC up in the oil channels... If you need these, you know where they go.



And the seals on the front of the motor. From left to right. The intake cam seals with the big opening for the AVCS pullies. The exhaust cam seals and then the oil pump / front main seal on the right:

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Old 05-02-2006, 09:00 PM   #5
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Here we have the set of two huge orange o-rings. You only need one afaik between the oil cooler and the block. The two little ones somehow keep the dipstick tube from leaking where it hits the oil pan (that's magic to me 'cuz they are wiggly... but they don't leak) They threw in a crush ring. Preesh. And the odd, pointed on one side, flat on the other, thick black o-ring is for the yellow oil fill cap.




These are the 3 (of 4) black, shaped o-rings and the larger orange o-ring that go between the two block halves. When these are missing from a set, it can really hamper your day. The 4th black shaped o-ring of the same size goes behind the oil pump. There is a very similarly shaped black o-ring ( the different one in the middle here) that goes between the block and the oil pickup tube so squint a bit when you decide what is what:



Rear main seals. They give us 3. I think because they have no idea how to write instructions. The rear main seal DOES NOT GET DRIVEN ALL THE WAY IN. I got even better at pulling my motor because I did not know that the first time. Fortunately my DP was kind enough to send a smoke signal. "...you.... are... a... retard..." it seemed to say. The rear main should sit basicly flush with the block. Subaru "mechanics" use a tool. ( <--- that should be a t-shirt)

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Old 05-02-2006, 09:07 PM   #6
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My eyes are pretty crossed at this point. I think these are the reamaining gaskets. I'll review later once I regain the feeling in my butt.



The part numbers and descriptions I know are, from left to right, as folows:

41 / 21236AA010 / GSKT-THERMO / 1 / Thermostat gasket. Inner rib snaps around radius of the thermostat.

43 / 806959030 / O RING-59.6x2.4 / 1 / Blue??? Not sure where it goes.

18 / 806939040 / O RING-39.4x3.1 / 2 / AVCR intake cam oil covers (the triangular covers held to the front of each intake cam sprocket by 3 philips/8mm bolts)

4 / 806931020 / O RING-31x2.0 / 1 (but came with 2) / #4 wrist pin access cover gasket (hidden by flywheel)

54 / 806933010 / O RING-33.7x3.5 / Water jacket crossover pipe to right and left blocks.

37 / 806922040 / O RING-22.1x3.5 / 1 / This may be the recirc valve kneck o-ring

10 / 806917070 / O RING-17.4x2.4 / 1 / oil fill tube to LH valve cover

...cut and pasted from above of course. I may re-discover some. If anyone knows what I've missed, please fill in my blanks and I'll update it.

Last edited by 2phless; 05-16-2006 at 07:31 AM.
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Old 05-03-2006, 01:05 AM   #7
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Dude, you deserve something for this.
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Old 05-03-2006, 01:51 AM   #8
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+1..... you have no idea how much you just helped me out with my whole swap situation......
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Old 05-03-2006, 09:21 AM   #9
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Since there is no FAQ/Threads of Note in this forum yet, I'll just sticky this.

Very good information, and it's awesome to have pictures, too.
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Old 05-16-2006, 07:34 AM   #10
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Now that the motor is all back together I updated a few of the o-ring descriptions. If anyone knows what the big blue o-ring (last set of pictures) does, I still haven't seen that one in the motor.

I've taken a few shots of the build to show gasket locations. I'll get those up sometime.
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Old 05-16-2006, 08:15 AM   #11
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You might also want to be aware of what doesn't come in the master gasket set. There is no, RH exhaust manifold to up-pipe, up-pipe to turbo gasket, nor is there a turbo to DP gasket.

The little o-ring around the top of the dip stick (around the yellow part that holds it firmly into the top of the dip stick tube.)

There are a few oil/water passage openings that have bolts sealing them and under the oil press. sender bung as well as others (perhaps for gauges not available on the usdm motors.) Some of those have the silver gaskets under them that are not there. the only reason I accessed those was for a more thorough cleaning on the first rebuild. HondaBond seals them well. The water neck for the oil cooler unit is another case. Metal gasket but no need to remove/replace. If you want, you can pour some oil into some of those top openings to help coat the internals a bit better/flush out any residual parts cleaner.

The banjo bolt on the top of the power steering pump. I unscrew that and unclamp both soft lines to the PSP reservoir so I can get those lines out of the way. But I've reused the gasket (it's like two copper crush gaskets but built into one unit. If yo've seen it, you'll know what I mean) a dozen times and it doesn't leak.

Tip: I actually replaced the foamy gaskets around the timing belt cover. Once you pull those off you might want to start soaking them in rubbing alcohol or do something to get the old gaskets off and get the plastic clean enough to let the new sticky foam to actually stick. I'd just leave the old ones on, and for iffy areas, add some permatex black or blue RTV. Something easier to peel off than hondabond.

After the first build where I washed the motor instide and out with parts cleaner/ brake cleaner/ rubbing alcohol etc... I used some of those upper oil plugs to fill the top channels with the first 5 quarts. (not all 5 through there, just got some in that way.) I figured that'd 1st off, help get oil on more parts for the initial startup (in case the assembly lube got too thin too quick, secondly, help wash down/dillute some of those solvents. Since they dissolve oil... Seemed like a bad thing to have hidden pockets of left over in the motor.

I also left the block on the motor stand for the first oil fill, then tipped the motor side to side to help coat everything, turning the crank with a 22mm socket.

That first 5 quarts were left in the motor for less than 5 minutes until the engine came up to temp. Then changed right away to dump all that solvent and assy lube and to clean the magnetic drain plug.

I use a tap on the starter wire (yellow wire in loom by firewall), which I can then run to the battery to turn the motor over the first few revolutions. The key can be all the way off so there is no need to disconnect the fuel pump or unplug the coil packs, and you can watch/listen to make sure nothing goes "PING!" and shoots across the garage. Oh, make sure the car is out of gear.
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Old 05-16-2006, 09:24 AM   #12
2phless
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Default My engine removal procedure.

I figure after doing this a few times this year I should post the removal process I've come up with. This isn't the only method, this is just how I do it, without assistance, in a small garage. Keep in mind that I have a lot of aftermarket parts/missing stock parts, and I've rewired / replumbed a few things to make this easier. I'll try to take into account anything Iremeber from having all the extra suabru stuff under there.

1: As always, remove the negative battery terminal.
2: A decent digital camera is your friend.
3: Ziplock bags with the sliders (a few sizes, sandwich to 1 gallon freezer bags) and one of those permanent markers that is retractable. Both of those products work well with greasy fingers and keeping those parts identified is key to an easy reassembly if you don't have them memorized.

Starting under the car:
Remove the two 14mm nuts from the mid-tranny mount.
Remove the undertray.
Remover the two 14mm nuts and washers from the engine mounts. 1 per side.
You might need to pull your lower Turbo to DP nut ( I get mine from the top later) and the upper DP to tranny bolt if your DP has that.
Dump the oil and coolant.
Pull the lower coolant line off the block.
Pull the passenger front tire, pull the O2 sensor cover, pull the O2 sensor (unplug it first). Replace the tire.

Back over the engine compartment.
Pull the TMIC or any FMIC tubing that is in the way. (you'll need very little side to side clearance.)
Pull the top coolant fill reservoir.

Pull the 5 Turbo to DP bolts/nuts.
Remove the pully cover and remove the AC/ PS belts.

Remove whatever intake setup you have. I figure a stock airbox could stay, just pulling the MAF tube. But I don't remember much about it.
Pull the power steering reservoir and lines leaving the soft lines on the jug. Set the reservoir someplace clean.
Disconnect the banjo from the pump, and the bracket from under the coolant reservoir. Tie those lines to the side. Plug for drips as needed. They should now be connected only to the steering rack.

Remove the top radiator line from the motor.
Remove the radiator and overflow tank.
Remove wires from alternator and AC pump. Tie aside.

Pull whatever fuel lines from the motor. If you care, relieve the fuel pressure first. I find it relieves itself just fine... so close your eyes. I marked them first with colored electrical tape for ease of re-assy. There is the delivery, return and purge vent lines associated with the plumbing coming off the driver's side strut tower. I don't remember all the details about the stock fuel lines.

Pull off the AC pump, leaving the lines intact. Remove the 10mm nut from the AC line bracket at the firewall for more play. Cover your battery/fender with a rag and carefully twist the AC pump under its own lines/ over the oil fill tube and set it on the battery. Tie aside. Later, if the car will sit a while, I set a jack stand in the empty engine compartment and set/tie the AC unit back into a more natural position so as not to stress the rubber lines.

Unplug the wiring harnesses from both sides of the motor. 2 per side.
Remove the heater core lines from the back of the motor.


Tranny:
(You might need to get a stock DP out of the way. Mine isn't.)
14mm bolts/nuts all the way around.
Start on the driver's side with the lowest stud. Remove that nut and work up to the starter.
You can leave the starter plugged in and just drop it, nose first, back behind the the steering shaft.
Continue across and down the other side pulling all the bolts/nuts.
Pull the 14mm bolt out of the top tranny brace dog-bone thing.

From the driver's side, Remove the little clutch lever return spring.
Pull the 10mm allen socket from the sdie of the tranny just below that.
Use a 6mm bolt (usually has an 8mm head) and thread that into the pin that is just inside that opening. Just turn it in a few threads and pull the pin out. The clutch fork is now free. It won't come out, it just needs to have play so as you slide the motor off, it won't hang.

Now the motor is free IIRC.

Putting the front tires on ramps is all the height I need.

Pulling:

On the engine hoist, I use a load leveler and bolt its chains to 4 points around the intake manifold, evenly as possible. Use 12mm bolts that run into the side of the intake. Use aftermarket grade 8 bolts and grade 8 washers, snug but not tight. You want the chain to be able to adjust under the weight.

Example bolt locations.
Passenger front: Turbo inlet tube mount.
Passenger rear: In front of the turbo where that power steering line bracket was mounted.
Drivers side, from the side of the intake there is a bolt location at the top of each runner. 1 front, 1 rear.

There are a ton of spots on the block, but you'll need to pull more of the accesories off the get at most of them. Plus the higher mounting points make tipping the motor easier (to me.)

I put a 4x4x4 wood block on a floor jack to support the tranny.

Lift the motor and tranny, little at a time each, until the two engine mount bolts are clear.

I use a little prybar to work the motor apart from the tranny. Remember to pull the clutch fork up until it is clear. It has play, just don't force anything and bend the fork or the throwout bearing.

Once it's fairly loose, I'll stand under the boom, pushing back on the cherry-picker with the heel of my boot while controlling the weight and angle of the motor until it is free. The key is not letting the motor hit the AC radiator.. thing... (what is that called anyway... I'm brain-farting)

Double check to make sure nothing is still hooked up and lift the motor free.

Lower onto some jack stands (I use 4, two for the motor mounts, 1 on each exhaust manifold) to stabilize the motor.

Pull the clutch/flywheel so you can bolt the engine stand bracket to the block. Pull the rear accessplate if you'll need them off (I've just used the fronts to access all 4 wrist pins). An impact screwdriver (the type where you hit the handle with a hammer to free stubborn screws) gets those the best.

The rest writes itself. Rebuild the motor. Reverse to reinstall. Having the subaru manual is key for all the torque specs. I'll proof-read later. Gotta go drive the car now
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Old 05-17-2006, 05:54 AM   #13
CK02WRX
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So, how much did it cost? It seems like there are a lot of parts included that don't really need to be replaced when doing an engine build.
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Old 05-17-2006, 10:29 AM   #14
2phless
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A little under $300 IIRC.
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Old 05-20-2006, 11:35 PM   #15
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Thanks for the info, 2phless.

FYI, here is Subaru's removal and replacement instructions. Hopefully it will be helpful to some.

http://m3.digital7.com/stiengineremoval.pdf
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Old 06-14-2006, 02:19 PM   #16
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where did you get this kit??? do they have one for a 2.0???
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Old 06-16-2006, 11:34 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turboimpreza07
where did you get this kit??? do they have one for a 2.0???
Subaru
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Old 10-10-2006, 02:42 PM   #18
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Question

I just bought the STI overhual gasket kit intending to use this with the 2.5L hybrid motor swap.
Can i use the gaskets are they the same thing the WRX overhual gasket kit uses for the WRX heads or Cams or basically anything else i dont know about this swap and what gaskets can be used.

Im thinking i may need to rebuy the gasket kit only for the WRX 2.0 Model.
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Old 10-10-2006, 04:28 PM   #19
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I'm not certain about differences between the two kits, but I will tell you that I just reused all of my old gaskets (except the ones that needed to be replaced, which I ordered the WRX gaskets as replacements) when I put my ej257 together.
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Old 10-10-2006, 04:37 PM   #20
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Look in 303wrx 's build thread.
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Old 10-10-2006, 06:28 PM   #21
dingobite
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Seems like the more and more i read im learning something else.

Might even have to put off the swap a little longer till i get everything right.
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Old 11-16-2006, 09:52 PM   #22
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Important note to EJ205 people: Valve cover gasket peices are NOT included in the EJ205 Engine gasket kit....while the EJ257/255 kit DOES include them as mentioned/pictured up there.
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Old 11-16-2006, 11:27 PM   #23
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this came with my ej257 engine gasket set. just figured i'd post it.

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Old 11-17-2006, 12:00 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WJM View Post
Important note to EJ205 people: Valve cover gasket peices are NOT included in the EJ205 Engine gasket kit....while the EJ257/255 kit DOES include them as mentioned/pictured up there.
I've also found that the ej207 avcs headgaskets aren't compatible with ej257.

Probably a well-known fact by some, but it was hard learned by me.
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Old 11-17-2006, 07:37 AM   #25
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92MM bore vs 99.5MM bore....

Who'd'a thunk?

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