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Old 01-28-2007, 01:25 AM   #1
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Exclamation DIY MODS: Intake Silencer Delete / Disable DRL / Disable Seatbelt Warning.

ALWAYS WEAR YOUR SEATBELT! - I do not condone operating a motor vehicle without proper seatbelt usage! DRL's are US government mandated on 2006 + MY vehicles. All infomation contained herein is meant for off-road use only! Author holds no responsibility for YOUR actions!

With the disclaimer out of the way, I figured I would just add these to the search results for these three simple DIY mods. They're FREE & EASY!

DISABLE YOUR DAYTIME RUNNING LIGHTS (DRL)

DIFFICULTY: 2 out of 10.

1. Open your glovebox. There are seven (7) Phillips screws holding the top of the glove box in place. Three across the top. One on each side of the foremost edges, and one on each side of the innermost edges (you may need to kneel down to see them). Remove these 7 screws.

2. Below the glove box in the footwell area, there are two more Phillips screws. One on each side. They hold two small molded tabs in place. Remove these 2 screws.

3. If your passenger door is closed, open it. On the side, you will see one of those Phillips head locking "retainer clip" fasteners. Turn the screw 1/2 turn and the center will pop out. Pull the entire fastener out.

Your entire glove box assembly should just fall away from the dash board. While removing all of these fasteners, you may want to hold the box in place with your knee or have a friend help. There is one small wire that is attached to the back of the glove box for the small map light inside. Not that it matters a whole lot, but you don't want this to rip away from wherever it is attached. You can now set the glove box on the floor.

4. On the right side of the kick panel that is now exposed, you will see two square modules. Blue and Green (I believe). Just behind that and to the right is a black box with a WHITE and PALE YELLOW harness clipped in. Squeeze the WHITE securing clip and wiggle out of its socket. This is your DRL unit. Once it is unclipped, you will no longer have Daytime Running Lights. What I did was tuck the loose wire behind the metal frame bracket that you will see. It's grey in color.

5. Place glove box back into its original position and replace the Phillips screws that you removed. I found that it is easier to secure the three at the top first, and then secure the remaining 4 screws, and finally the retainer clip fastener on the far right side. That's it! You're done!


SEATBELT CHIME ELIMINATION

DIFFICULTY: 0.5 out of 10.

1. Insert key into ignition. Turn to "Accessory On" position. This is the last click before you would turn the key to start the engine. Your radio and annoying seatbelt chime will be ON.

2. Within 5 seconds of turning your key to "ACC ON", take your seatbelt clip, and INSERT & RELEASE into the buckle 20 times repeatedly. Each time you INSERT the clip into the buckle, it must "click" into place. You must push the release button to remove it. Complete this 20 times within 30 seconds.

3. When you have completed the 20 clicks, turn your key off and remove it from the ignition.

4. Start your car as normal. You will notice that the seatbelt indicator chime will sound six (6) times, then go off. It will NOT come back on until the next time you start your car, and it will stay on this pattern indefinately.

5. To re-active your annoying seatbelt chime, simply unhook your positive (+) battery terminal for 30 seconds to reset the ECU.


INTAKE SILENCER REMOVAL aka SNORKUSECTOMY

DIFFICULTY: 3 out of 10.

1. Disconnect (+) terminal on your battery.

2. Loosen and remove the 10mm bolt on the radiator support that secures the "ram air" duct in place. This is the tube shaped piece of black plastic that begins just behind the passenger side headlamp and travels into the passenger side fender wall. Once the bolt is removed, just wiggle the duct out of place. It is held into the fender wall by the intake silencer. (On 2006 2.5i models, the silencer / snorkus / milk jug is white in color).

3. Disconnect the wiring harness from the MAF sensor housing. Tuck away into a safe spot. Loosen the screw on the hose clamp that connects the MAF housing to the upper intake tube. Unsnap the two metal closures that hold the top half of the airbox in place. Remove from engine bay. (The MAF housing will stay connected to the top half of the airbox).

4. Loosen and remove the 12mm bolts (2 of these) that secure the bottom half of the airbox to the bottom of the engine bay. The inlet pipe of the airbox is connected with a rubber gasket on the inner fender wall. Just wiggle this out of place and remove from the engine bay. (This is the part that holds the air filter element.)

5. Loosen and remove the 10 mm nut that is now located between the two holes on the inner fender wall. You will see the intake silencer (white) in each of these holes. This bolt that you are removing secures the top of the silencer to the fender wall.

6. Jack the front passenger side of the car up. I left my car on the jack instead of using a jack stand, but do whatever you feel most comfortable with. Remove the front passenger wheel. (It's much easier). The fender liner is held on with several retainer clips. With the wheel removed (or turned out to the right), you will see a cluster of these clips. Use a flat head screw driver to pop the center out. Then use a pair of pliers to pull the clip completely out of the liner. There will be 3 of these clips, and one that has a phillips head screw in the center. Then under the front bumper lip, you will see 3 more retainer clips that hold the lower cover to the bumper. Remove these as well.

7. Now here's the tricky part. If you don't know already, the fender liner is almost rubbery. You'll need to pull it away from behind the fender lip and down and away from the bottom of the bumper. You'll sort of pull it away from the corner of the car and try to tuck it back near the brake rotor. Once you've opened up enough room so that you can see the bottom of the white milk jug (snorkus / silencer), you'll see there is another 10mm nut that is located on the back of the silencer, facing away from the motor. Loosen and remove this nut. The silencer will now be free, but you'll have to pull down on it a few times and sort of turn it and finagle it to bring it out from the bottom of the car. It's a tight squeeze, but it WILL come out. There's only two bolts that hold it all in place.

8. The final step is to replace everything that you took off / apart. The end result is an intake sound that is deeper and throatier than stock. If you have the Aero model, you will hear the turbo spool up and the BPV will be louder as well. Performance gains / losses are highly debated, so do this at your own risk.

9. Total time it took me was about 40 minutes. It will take you less or more time depending on how familiar you are with your car.
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Old 01-28-2007, 01:46 PM   #2
SinisterSkube
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sweet always wondered how to take off drls
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Old 01-28-2007, 03:14 PM   #3
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great writeup.

i'm glad you listed the correct way to disable DRLs, there are people who just unplug the voltage adjustment box in the engine bay, but that is NOT the right way to do it, you have to unplug the plug under the glovebox as instructed here.

i didn't know about the seatbelt chime thing, does this mean the open driver's door won't chime with the keys in the ignition or is that separate?
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Old 01-28-2007, 05:01 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Handsdown View Post
great writeup.

i didn't know about the seatbelt chime thing, does this mean the open driver's door won't chime with the keys in the ignition or is that separate?
Thank you!

My 2006 doesn't make any noise when the driver's door is open, whether the keys are in the ignition or not. I see you have a 2003. Perhaps it is different for you?

FWIW, I used to have a 1992 Volkswagen Corrado with automatic seatbelts that ran on tracks. Super annoying since it worked with the door being open or closed. So when you disconnected the seatbelt from the movable track, it would chime like crazy. 3 different audible pitches. Do-do-do. Do-do-do. And so on... So up where the fuse box was located, I found a plug (with 3 fuse-sized pins) that had a small speaker box attached to it. I pulled that to see what it would do, and sure enough, it was the seatbelt chime.

So if the trick above doesnt work for you, you might want to look into something like what I just described.

JAY
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Old 01-28-2007, 05:07 PM   #5
Wannascooby
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I don't know about other models, but the 06 doesn't require you to take off the glovebox. You can simply stick your head under and unplug it. That mod should be about 1/10 difficulty and 2/10 if you can't get that sucker unclipped.
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Old 01-28-2007, 05:17 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wannascooby View Post
I don't know about other models, but the 06 doesn't require you to take off the glovebox. You can simply stick your head under and unplug it. That mod should be about 1/10 difficulty and 2/10 if you can't get that sucker unclipped.
it's easier to just unscrew the small number of screws to drop it down. otherwise you'll be screwing your neck up in order to get your shoulders in the footwell and still see it. there are more than one plugs down there, and you sure don't want to pull one that doesn't say 'drl' on it
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Old 01-28-2007, 05:34 PM   #7
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The seat belt chime trick works awesome. I always have the habit of putting on my belt as soon as I get in any car, so I don't need to be reminded.

It really got annoying since it's colder here, I let my car warm up before I go to work, and when I get in all I hear is that damn chime, so I have to listen to it while I'm getting settled in the car, the light on the dash doesn't even come on anymore, well so far that I have observed.
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Old 01-28-2007, 05:43 PM   #8
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@ Wannascooby: You are correct. If you have small hands, a flashlight, and practice contortionism, you can wedge yourself into the foot well and unplug it. I tried, but couldn't get a grip to wiggle the plug out of its socket.

@ WhiteFox: You are correct, too. The light will flash 6 times, along with the chime, then it will disappear for good. (Or until you restart the car, then it will flash 6 more times and disappear.)

JAY
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Old 01-28-2007, 05:47 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Handsdown View Post
it's easier to just unscrew the small number of screws to drop it down. otherwise you'll be screwing your neck up in order to get your shoulders in the footwell and still see it. there are more than one plugs down there, and you sure don't want to pull one that doesn't say 'drl' on it
IMO it's easier to just stick your head under , and the chances of pulling the wrong one are rare since its the only yellow one there I believe. I guess it really depends if you'd rather waste energy unscrewing/screwing or be really uncomfortable.
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Old 01-28-2007, 05:59 PM   #10
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I disconnected my DRL a while ago, and all I did was move the seat as far as it goes, then recline it for a little more room, then just lay on my back and pull the plug out, took no more than 5mins.
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Old 01-28-2007, 10:22 PM   #11
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I guess I can take another shot at removing my intake silencer sometime this week.
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Old 01-29-2007, 12:08 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Handsdown View Post
great writeup.

i'm glad you listed the correct way to disable DRLs, there are people who just unplug the voltage adjustment box in the engine bay, but that is NOT the right way to do it, you have to unplug the plug under the glovebox as instructed here.

whats the problems that this can cause ? removing the voltage adjustment box? im assuming that is the little silver box on the passenger side of the engine bay?
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Old 01-29-2007, 07:07 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by User Banned
Disconnect (+) terminal on your battery.
Hmm, I've always been told to disconnect the (-) terminal of the battery when doing any mods. Is there a reason you disconnected the (+) one instead?
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Old 01-29-2007, 10:32 AM   #14
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Could be that I just don't know what I'm doing...which is quite the possibility! haha. I've always done the (+) but I guess you could be right too!
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Old 01-29-2007, 11:51 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Handsdown View Post
great writeup.

i didn't know about the seatbelt chime thing, does this mean the open driver's door won't chime with the keys in the ignition or is that separate?
i'll echo Handsdown's question: anyone know if this also eliminates the "key in ignition" chime when the driver's side door is open? particularly for a bugeye?
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Old 01-30-2007, 11:29 AM   #16
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There is a DYI in scoobymods.com that instructs you to tape over the chime to lower the volume.

http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/sho...ght=door+chime

You can disconnect it if you can work with a soldering gun, this way it can be place back if needed.

PS: On late models, the chime that beeps for "door open" is also the chime for "you left the key in the ignition" and "put seat belt on".
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Old 01-31-2007, 02:32 AM   #17
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good write up, whats wrong with just unplugging the drl from under the hood? thats what i was told to do...dont see how it could cause any problems
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Old 01-31-2007, 04:54 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spooledyou View Post
good write up, whats wrong with just unplugging the drl from under the hood? thats what i was told to do...dont see how it could cause any problems
Because the plug in the engine bay is just a drop resistor, not the main control unit for the DRL, which is the unit/clip you unplug behind the glovebox. If you ever go HIDs, you need to disconnect the DRLs completely, not just from the engine bay. If not, you will shorten the life of your HID bulbs as they will come on or flicker with the DRL not being totally disconnected.
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Old 01-09-2008, 07:58 PM   #19
snoopy8818
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Unhappy Can not find the DRL in 07 STI

I have a 2007 STI, I can not find the black box as described. When I drop the glove box I see three relays on a bracket, two mounted low, a green one and brown, on top of that one is a black relay, unplugged it but it did nothing. I did not see anything off to the right side of the kick panel except three round things with plugs going into them mounted along the right lower kick panel area. Found the shock sensor, can not find the DRL box though. Any help or suggestions?

Thanks

David
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Old 01-09-2008, 09:57 PM   #20
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I have a 2007 Sti and did not mess with anything on the right side when I disabled mine. If I remember right, there is one diode behind the glovebox that I disconnected and taped. I'll look later through my posts and see if I can find the thread the instructions were in.

But search using "2007 sti drl" and you should find it.
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Old 04-01-2008, 03:52 PM   #21
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thx.. seatbelt warnign annoys the hell outta me
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Old 11-10-2008, 11:53 PM   #22
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on the intake silencer on a 2004 wrx is it different because im looking at a blown up picture of it and it doesn't look like it comes off with out some cutting?
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Old 11-13-2008, 07:38 PM   #23
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Flex Innovations agreed to host some walkthroughs for me.

here is the intake silencer removal: http://www.flex-innovations.com/elbow_delete.htm

and here is the drl disable: http://www.flex-innovations.com/cabin_filter.htm

hope that helps
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Old 11-14-2008, 02:42 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hank3 View Post
Because the plug in the engine bay is just a drop resistor, not the main control unit for the DRL, which is the unit/clip you unplug behind the glovebox. If you ever go HIDs, you need to disconnect the DRLs completely, not just from the engine bay. If not, you will shorten the life of your HID bulbs as they will come on or flicker with the DRL not being totally disconnected.

So basicly if you do not have HIDS you are ok and if you do get HID's. Go under the dash
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Old 11-14-2008, 06:37 AM   #25
efaroh
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i think the drl relay runs the low beams at like 40% or something like that HID or Halogen. why would you want it on during the day, just wasting your bulbs away. if you're in a mandatory drl zone, just flip on the lights. i dont need it on all the time.
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