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Old 08-02-2007, 02:03 AM   #1
ejsquad
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OMGHi2U Installing Camber Bolts???

has anyone here install camber bolts before? If so can that someone give me instructions for the install ??
BTW is it haard or easy???

anything helps
thanks
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Old 08-02-2007, 05:06 AM   #2
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Old 08-02-2007, 05:11 AM   #3
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thanks so much UkNuck!
peace!!!
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Old 08-02-2007, 11:47 AM   #4
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I still say those instructions are wrong. With the washer tab and the cam both on the same side, its no different than just using a regular straight bolt.
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Old 08-02-2007, 12:03 PM   #5
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Are you installing them on the front or rear? I've had problem with the slipping on the front.
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Old 08-02-2007, 11:06 PM   #6
MattPersman
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the ingalls instructions are.

Quote:
For positive camber adjustment, rotate the upper FastcamTM arrow towards the tire and the lower FastcamTM arrow towards the engine. For negative camber adjustment, rotate the upper FastcamTM arrow towards the engine and the lower FastcamTM arrow towards the tire.
I used these on the rear of my TR worked just fine and the price was right from summit racing
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Old 08-03-2007, 12:45 AM   #7
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There's a thread on here from me being utterly confused by the fact that the Whiteline pdf, the Ingalls web instructions, and the Ingalls printed instructions all disagree with each other. And it was 4am, but I digress.

After Fred and Arnie beating on my head for a while, I finally get it.

First, lets get some terminology straight here. The washer has a "handle" that sticks up at a 45 degree angle and is pretty large. The washer also has a "tab" that sticks out at a 90 degree angle and is fairly small.

OK, so you decide which way you want to push the knuckle. I presume you want to add negative camber. To add negative camber, you want to push the top of the knuckle in and the bottom of the knuckle out (reverse this if you want more positive camber).

The bolt pushes in the direction the handle on the washer points. That's VERY important to understand. Point the handle on the washer towards the engine, and you push in. Point the handle towards the tire to push the knuckle outwards. The handle should be parallel to the ground (horizontal).

The bolt has an arrow on the head. When the arrow on the bolt points away from the handle on the washer, there's no camber change at all, it just acts like a normal bolt. When the arrow on the bolt points towards the handle on the washer, you get maximum camber change. This is VERY important to understand. Arrow opposite handle, no camber. Arrow at handle, most camber.

Finally, the tab on the washer MUST be seated correctly. If you point the arrow on the head of the bolt opposite the handle on the washer, there will be this nice little void for the tab on the washer to slip down into. The tab actually fits between the shaft of the bolt and the strut.

OK, so putting that all together, here's a set of instructions:

1) Put the washer on the bolt with the tab facing away from the head of the bolt and the handle tipping up in the same direction as the head
2) Slide the bolt through the strut and knuckle until it's almost all the way in
3) Point the handle on the washer in the direction you want to move the knuckle
4) Point the arrow on the bolt away from the handle on the washer
5) Make sure the tab on the washer is safely snuggled between the shaft of the bolt and the strut allowing the washer to set flat against the strut
6) Push the bolt the last little bit in, pinning the washer between the strut and the bolt
7) Verify the tab is still correctly seated
8) Put the nut on the other side and tighten it to the point it's snug but not tight
9) Use a wrench to spin the bolt so the arrow points directly at the handle DO NOT LET THE HANDLE MOVE OR THE TAB COME UNSEATED
10) Tighten to spec
11) Drive and enjoy!
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Old 08-03-2007, 06:35 AM   #8
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Yay! You finally get it. And validate my thoughts as well.

For step 9, I've found it helpful to use a box-end wrench to hold the "handle" to keep the washer from moving.
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Old 08-03-2007, 09:26 AM   #9
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BTW, you want to put the camber bolt in the bottom hole if you are trying to get more neg camber. You have more adjustment that way.

Tony
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Old 08-03-2007, 09:46 AM   #10
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thanks for that tip tony
i'll be putting mine on next week (once i get back from rally wva)
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Old 09-06-2007, 06:36 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by williaty View Post
There's a thread on here from me being utterly confused by the fact that the Whiteline pdf, the Ingalls web instructions, and the Ingalls printed instructions all disagree with each other. And it was 4am, but I digress.

After Fred and Arnie beating on my head for a while, I finally get it.

First, lets get some terminology straight here. The washer has a "handle" that sticks up at a 45 degree angle and is pretty large. The washer also has a "tab" that sticks out at a 90 degree angle and is fairly small.

OK, so you decide which way you want to push the knuckle. I presume you want to add negative camber. To add negative camber, you want to push the top of the knuckle in and the bottom of the knuckle out (reverse this if you want more positive camber).

The bolt pushes in the direction the handle on the washer points. That's VERY important to understand. Point the handle on the washer towards the engine, and you push in. Point the handle towards the tire to push the knuckle outwards. The handle should be parallel to the ground (horizontal).

The bolt has an arrow on the head. When the arrow on the bolt points away from the handle on the washer, there's no camber change at all, it just acts like a normal bolt. When the arrow on the bolt points towards the handle on the washer, you get maximum camber change. This is VERY important to understand. Arrow opposite handle, no camber. Arrow at handle, most camber.

Finally, the tab on the washer MUST be seated correctly. If you point the arrow on the head of the bolt opposite the handle on the washer, there will be this nice little void for the tab on the washer to slip down into. The tab actually fits between the shaft of the bolt and the strut.

OK, so putting that all together, here's a set of instructions:

1) Put the washer on the bolt with the tab facing away from the head of the bolt and the handle tipping up in the same direction as the head
2) Slide the bolt through the strut and knuckle until it's almost all the way in
3) Point the handle on the washer in the direction you want to move the knuckle
4) Point the arrow on the bolt away from the handle on the washer
5) Make sure the tab on the washer is safely snuggled between the shaft of the bolt and the strut allowing the washer to set flat against the strut
6) Push the bolt the last little bit in, pinning the washer between the strut and the bolt
7) Verify the tab is still correctly seated
8) Put the nut on the other side and tighten it to the point it's snug but not tight
9) Use a wrench to spin the bolt so the arrow points directly at the handle DO NOT LET THE HANDLE MOVE OR THE TAB COME UNSEATED
10) Tighten to spec
11) Drive and enjoy!
So the bolt pushes the knuckle in the direction of the large 45 deg. big tab under the bolt head ? If the large tab and arrow are pointing in opposing directions, then there is NO change? The bolts can really only push the knuckle in the direction of the tab ?

If the Specialty Product bolts are in the bottom strut hole and the tab is pointed in towards the motor then I am losing neg camber ?

From the way this reads it contradicts the printed directions, which say for neg camber point tab towards motor...

Am I just confused ?
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Old 09-06-2007, 06:39 PM   #12
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Yes, the cam on the bolt should be pointing the same direction as the 45* "handle". If in the lower hole, both the cam and the "handle" should be facing out from the car.
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Old 09-06-2007, 06:41 PM   #13
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Bingo !!!
thanks man !
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Old 09-06-2007, 06:50 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joe-6STi View Post
So the bolt pushes the knuckle in the direction of the large 45 deg. big tab under the bolt head ? If the large tab and arrow are pointing in opposing directions, then there is NO change? The bolts can really only push the knuckle in the direction of the tab ?
Absolutely correct!

Quote:
Originally Posted by joe-6STi View Post
If the Specialty Product bolts are in the bottom strut hole and the tab is pointed in towards the motor then I am losing neg camber?
Yes. If you are pushing the knuckle in at the bottom, you are pushing the wheel more straight up and down.

Quote:
Originally Posted by joe-6STi View Post
From the way this reads it contradicts the printed directions, which say for neg camber point tab towards motor...

Am I just confused ?
In this case, directions suck. I've now read the directions repeatedly from 4 different companies and they all are confusing or wrong in one way or another.

Just take a step back, think about what you want to achieve, and think about how to do it. To make negative camber, you want to push the bottom of the wheel out, and the top of the wheel in. So in the top bolt hole, you want to push in, in the bottom bolt hole, you want to push out. The bolt pushes towards the large 45* tab. The bolt pushes most when the arrow on the bolt head points at the large 45* tab. The bolt is easiest to fit in when the bolt head arrow points away from the large 45* tab.

Basically, point the 45* tab the way you want to go, spin the arrow away from the tab, get it all seated down in the clevis hole making sure you don't squish the little 90* tab on the inside, tighten it down a bit, then spin the bolt around so the arrow points to the tab on the washer.
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Old 09-06-2007, 09:00 PM   #15
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^^^Yup!



and...

Here we go again....

On my ingalls bolts...

In the front, lower position.

BOTH the arrow and the washer tab must be pointing AWAY from the engine in order to achieve additional negative camber.

I'm in the -1.7-2.0 ish range with BOTH point outward.

Maybe they changed how they made their bolts...but at least on mine, you won't get the results with them point opposite.


Edit: looks like you guys have that figured out already...
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Old 02-18-2008, 03:35 AM   #16
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Here are some images I made by modifying the ones on the Whiteline instructions to go along with williaty's instructions. This will be for replacing the bottom bolt in the front for max negative camber. I hope it helps anyone that is more visually oriented like myself.

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Old 02-18-2008, 03:52 AM   #17
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Note that I think this is correct, but I'm arguing with someone who usually knows more than I do about this right now.
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Old 12-18-2012, 10:24 PM   #18
Garick
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it all makes sense now...I was bashing my head against the wall reading the whiteline instructions and the other camber bolt faq here. The bolt has to rotate from the 'install position' to achieve any adjustment.
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