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Old 12-27-2007, 12:29 AM   #1
jobxiii
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Default brakes failing after swap

after swapping the entire brake system out of a 04 sti into my 02 wrx i did a brake bleed making sure to get each bleeder, both on each caliper and after i got a solid pedal i took it around the block and noticed the pedal falls straight to the floor and after pumping it several times i get my pedal back, but repeats all over again. so we bleed them once more take it out and same thing happens only this time the abs light comes on and the green dccd light starts flashing! is there something special to bleeding the brembos or abs system? and the bottom green dccd light means it is open and ok to drive right?
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Old 12-27-2007, 09:03 AM   #2
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What exactly did you swap over? Are the bleeders facing up? Did you bleed from the inner and outer bleeders?

Tony
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Old 12-27-2007, 10:26 AM   #3
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I have a feeling he let the whole system empty out so, the ABS pump and master cylinder both need to be bled out. I'll bet you have alot more bleeding ahead of you till you can get it right. Wonder if a pressure bleed would help?
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Old 12-27-2007, 10:38 AM   #4
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swapped over 100% everything from sti except ash tray and dome light and headliner! yea the bleeders are facing up and bled from inside to out. yea i lost a little bit of fluid with swap, ive never bled a system with abs before. i'll try bleeding the master cylinder and abs pump. let ya know how it goes.
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Old 12-27-2007, 10:43 AM   #5
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IT sounds like you m/c bled out
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Old 12-28-2007, 12:03 AM   #6
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Master cylinder went empty. Take it and have it professionally done.

I had mine done at the dealership and the pedal is awesome!! Moves about 1/2 and inch till it starts to grab.

They use a pressure machine to get it nice and tight.

Last edited by Airborne Guy; 12-28-2007 at 09:10 AM.
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Old 12-28-2007, 01:35 AM   #7
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They have the tools to run the ABS pump while bleeding too.
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Old 12-28-2007, 08:12 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MasterKwan View Post
They have the tools to run the ABS pump while bleeding too.
So do you - you ground two pins on the diag port under the dash, turn on the car, and press the brake.
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Old 12-28-2007, 09:52 AM   #9
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Good to know. I thought it was a "select monitor" kind of thing.
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Old 12-29-2007, 12:51 AM   #10
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hey just wanted to say thanks you guys are awesome
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Old 06-09-2008, 10:34 AM   #11
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Whic pins do you ground to pulse the ABS unit?
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Old 06-09-2008, 02:32 PM   #12
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I believe the answer is in a thread titled something like "How to read ABS codes"
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Old 06-13-2008, 05:51 PM   #13
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have a question? nothing to do with bleeding the brakes. but with the abs. i have a spare tire on and the abs is on ever since. any body know how to turn it off.

02wrx
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Old 06-13-2008, 05:59 PM   #14
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It's probably a wheel speed indicator mismatch which will trigger because of the difference in tire diameter. It's reading the data from the wheel with the spare which is not equal to the readings from the speed sensors on the other 3 wheels. It should go away when the tires are back to an equal circumference matched set.
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Old 06-13-2008, 06:36 PM   #15
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Pins 3 and 6 on connector B82 IIRC. ground, turn to on, press brake within a couple of seconds.

I've got a thread on it over on iwsti.
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Old 06-14-2008, 07:52 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turn in Concepts View Post
Pins 3 and 6 on connector B82 IIRC. ground, turn to on, press brake within a couple of seconds.

I've got a thread on it over on iwsti.
http://www.iwsti.com/forums/braking/...-problems.html
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Old 10-17-2008, 11:13 PM   #17
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Default little help?

i once had this issue where i let the master run dry becuase i cracked a solid brake line. i remember reading about this and having to cycle the abs. i could never find the right connector? i ended up having to put the car on stands , put the car in gear and brake while on the stands to cycle the abs pump . i guess it worked cause my brakes felt fine after .

any help as to the connector im looking for ??? seriousl could never find them. maybe someone has a good pic or something?
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Old 03-25-2011, 09:59 AM   #18
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Default Update on purging ABS of air?

Since it's been a few years I am wondering if this info is still valid on my 2011 STI and it would be good to know what years have the B82 connector and use this method of actuating the ABS.
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Old 03-25-2011, 10:10 AM   #19
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It's not hard to figure it out... put your head under there and see if it's there.
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Old 03-25-2011, 11:59 AM   #20
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Default Informative, straight answers on the internet are a good thing!

This is an informative thread and I would like to see it updated!

"It's not hard to figure it out..."
Not from what I've read. It may require removing a panel and the connector and ground pins may be hidden, wrapped in tape. If you've been under there and done this why don't you share what you know?
I'd like to know what years of Subarus this protocol applies to before I start digging around under there.

FWIW, I have been all over the net and on many Subaru forums looking for brake bleeding info and the information about bleeding brakes can be confusing and downright misinformed. The year of your car and whether it has ABS is critical. I bet I've bled more brakes on old cars than anyone on here!

I still don't know how critical it is to actuate the ABS if you have drained all your fluid or pumped air into the system. I read in one place that you could drive the car and actuate the ABS that way and then re-bleed the brakes. I want a foolproof method since I have not regained the hard pedal I want and expect. Also, some cars don't have Brembos with two bleed screws. I have since learned that you bleed the inner screw first if you have two. I started bleeding my brakes the old-fashioned way; furtherest first and then learned that was wrong for my car with ABS. I think many good FAQs and stickied threads are great, but sometimes they get stale, outdated and not updated. Sometimes they need clarification.
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Old 03-25-2011, 01:52 PM   #21
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You don't even need to remove the panel. Open the door, crawl under the dash with a bright LED flashlight or one of those headstraps. Look for the green test connectors, on the same wire cluster as those there'll be a black 6 pin connector. Trace that connector back to the loom further up into the dash towards the firewall...there'll be some taped up leads. Those are what you're looking for.

As to whether or not they exist in your car, I suggest you just get under there and look for yourself. Otherwise you can go get the shop manual and look at the wiring diagrams. I'm not sure what's so hard about just taking a peek under the dash, it's not anywhere neer as difficult as bleeding brakes.

The connector you're looking for is in the 2nd picture in the first post of this thread: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2155635

And if that's not the particular connector, it's in that general area.
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Old 03-28-2011, 07:41 AM   #22
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Default Activated ABS by driving/re-bled brakes=hard as a rock!

Took the car out (with a spongy brake pedal), and did a little more racing pad bedding Activated the ABS several times. Not hard to do with sticky Toyo R888's!
I came back and bled the brakes and they are now perfect and instantly harder than ever since I switched to the SS braided teflon lines!
Make sure you use the RF, LR, LF, RR sequence Subaru recommends.

BTW, I bought
Speed BleedersSpeed Bleeders
, and while not cheap, because I needed eight, they are the greatest thing since sliced bread! (This Amazon supplier has good prices)
I could see the bottle for the left side wheels so seeing bubbles and knowing when to quit was easy. On the right side I used my Flip video camera and played it back to see if the bubbles stopped. This worked out very well, so I was able to do it all by myself with me just pumping the pedal. Not sure if I see the need for fancy bleeding apparatuses once you have Speed Bleeders with their one-way check valves... $56 well spent!
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Old 10-13-2011, 11:05 PM   #23
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Default

u just bled normally? I just did 4/2 pots on my GC and it doesnt even feel safe to drive
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