Welcome to the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club Wednesday July 30, 2014
Home Forums WikiNASIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage
NASIOC
Here you can view your subscribed threads, work with private messages and edit your profile and preferences Home Registration is free! Visit the NASIOC Store NASIOC Rules Search Find other members Frequently Asked Questions Calendar Archive NASIOC Upgrade Garage Logout
Go Back   NASIOC > NASIOC Technical > Normally Aspirated Powertrain

Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!
Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 01-26-2008, 09:58 AM   #1
240c
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 122229
Join Date: Aug 2006
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Fostoria, Ohio
Vehicle:
1997 Outback
Blue/grey

Default Oil filter not staying tight

I have a 06 Impreza 2.5i, I chang my own oil. I have noticed that the oil filter is leaking every time. I know you should only hand tighten, because you can bend the new filter.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
240c is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2008, 10:00 AM   #2
Subie Gal
GC84Ever
Super Moderator
 
Member#: 301
Join Date: Sep 1999
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: WA
Vehicle:
1970 FF-1 & '70 Van
02 WRX/01 RS

Default

are you using oem filters?
Subie Gal is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2008, 10:26 AM   #3
PhilSine
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 130489
Join Date: Oct 2006
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Superior, WI
Vehicle:
02 WRX Wagon (WRB)
98 OBS-T, 91 Legacy SS

Default

I've never heard that overtightening can bend the filter. Oil filters are pretty tough.

You hand tighten so that the filter can be more easily removed at the next change.

Also, you coat the rubber gasket with a light film of old oil to help seal it. If I were you, I'd get an OE filter or at least a Bosch filter or better and stay away from Fram (not saying you're using a Fram, just saying stay away from them).
PhilSine is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2008, 10:36 AM   #4
Subie Gal
GC84Ever
Super Moderator
 
Member#: 301
Join Date: Sep 1999
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: WA
Vehicle:
1970 FF-1 & '70 Van
02 WRX/01 RS

Default

my line of thinking also is there you may have a double gasket issue going on

it is possible for the rubber gasket to stick in place during a change, and possibly go unnoticed

This is especially likely if you are using non oem oil filters
Subie Gal is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2008, 10:41 AM   #5
orndog
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 34670
Join Date: Mar 2003
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Atlanta
Vehicle:
2013 No gears!
Saltine American

Default

I second SG, and also think you should check the filter stud.
orndog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2008, 11:38 AM   #6
mopartodd
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 164929
Join Date: Nov 2007
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: NC
Vehicle:
2010 2.5i Outback
Satin White

Default

According to the 2007 Subaru Impreza Shop Manual you should hand tighten 1 rotation past where the seal meets the block, then using a filter wrench tighten another 2/3 - 3/4 rotation.

5) Install the oil filter by turning it by hand, being
careful not to damage seal rubber.
• Tighten the oil filter 68 mm (2.68 in) in diameter
(approx. 1 rotation) after the seal rubber of the oil
filter comes in contact with cylinder block or oil
cooler. Use the 14 Nm (1.4 kgf-m, 10.3 ft-lb)
torque, if the torque wrench is available.
• Tighten the oil filter with 65 mm (2.56 in) in diameter
further (approx. 2/3 — 3/4 rotations) after the
seal rubber of the oil filter comes in contact with cylinder
block or oil cooler. Use the 12 Nm (1.2 kgf-m,
8.7 ft-lb) torque, if the torque wrench is available.

In other words, if you are just going hand tight you are not getting the filter tight enough.

Last edited by mopartodd; 01-26-2008 at 11:43 AM.
mopartodd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2008, 11:56 AM   #7
orndog
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 34670
Join Date: Mar 2003
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Atlanta
Vehicle:
2013 No gears!
Saltine American

Default

mopartodd, read that again. It says use a torque wrench if available. Those are tightening specs for 2 different sized filters. It does not say tighten, then tighten again.
orndog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2008, 01:56 PM   #8
flstffxe
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 155358
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Coon Rapids, MN
Vehicle:
2008 Forester
Steel Silver

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilSine View Post
I've never heard that overtightening can bend the filter. Oil filters are pretty tough.

You hand tighten so that the filter can be more easily removed at the next change.
Over tightening can cause the base of the filter to contact the mounting point and distort it causing it to not seal. You also risk ripping/tearing the oil filter gasket. Most filters have a spec on the box or the filter its self on how far to turn it after the gasket makes contact(typically 1/4-1 turn). The idea is to tighten the filter to a point where the gasket has sufficient pressure to seal with out the base of the filter distorting or contacting the mounting point.

I would check:
1. look at the gasket mating surface on the block and see if it is smooth where the gasket sits, if not it will leak.

2. Make sure the threaded stud in the block is tight (it is common that they loosen up).

3. The infamous double gasket.

4. to see if you are getting oil trapped on the outer lip of the filter (outside the gasket between the gasket and the edge of the filter housing) when you install it.
flstffxe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2008, 02:37 PM   #9
watchunglava
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 168862
Join Date: Jan 2008
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Portland Maine
Vehicle:
2007 ej253n/a 5speed
Red Sox Nation Lifer

Default oil filter

i use an oil fliter socket on my torque wrench when i tighten down the filter never had any problems . never tighten a fliter beyond the recogmended torque. i have no idea who the noob is who said dont tighten it down so its easier to remove the next time. that dude is a joke. its all about pressure , warpage, and possible explotions. if you care about your engine the oem filters are a joke too. use a k and n gold if you can afford it . it filters down to some insane micros . also i recogmend a magnetic drain plug to pick up any filings from cold starts and such , between changes. its either get the magnet or have filings in your brankcase!!!!! ive found one for $10 on ebay . change your oil frequently!!! im sure most people on here drive their cars hard . use the proper oil for the time of the year in your region. this is the greatest site ever!!!! http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html good reading ladys and gents.
watchunglava is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2008, 03:20 PM   #10
mopartodd
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 164929
Join Date: Nov 2007
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: NC
Vehicle:
2010 2.5i Outback
Satin White

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by orndog View Post
mopartodd, read that again. It says use a torque wrench if available. Those are tightening specs for 2 different sized filters. It does not say tighten, then tighten again.

You're right, but basically you are tightening it twice. Once by hand until the seal makes contact, then an additional amount of rotation or to specified torque. Hand tight is not tight enough though, regardless of how you read it.

Personally, I've never had a problem when spinning it by hand as tight as I can and then 1/4 - 1/2 turn beyond that.
mopartodd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2008, 03:27 PM   #11
flstffxe
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 155358
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Coon Rapids, MN
Vehicle:
2008 Forester
Steel Silver

Default

flstffxe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2008, 04:28 PM   #12
PhilSine
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 130489
Join Date: Oct 2006
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Superior, WI
Vehicle:
02 WRX Wagon (WRB)
98 OBS-T, 91 Legacy SS

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by watchunglava View Post
i use an oil fliter socket on my torque wrench when i tighten down the filter never had any problems . never tighten a fliter beyond the recogmended torque. i have no idea who the noob is who said dont tighten it down so its easier to remove the next time. that dude is a joke. its all about pressure , warpage, and possible explotions. if you care about your engine the oem filters are a joke too. use a k and n gold if you can afford it . it filters down to some insane micros . also i recogmend a magnetic drain plug to pick up any filings from cold starts and such , between changes. its either get the magnet or have filings in your brankcase!!!!! ive found one for $10 on ebay . change your oil frequently!!! im sure most people on here drive their cars hard . use the proper oil for the time of the year in your region. this is the greatest site ever!!!! http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html good reading ladys and gents.
That would be me that said hand tighten so that it's easier to remove the next time. You ever come across a filter that was overtightened? Better yet, you ever strip a filter on the stud? I've seen both and neither of them on my own vehicle thankfully.

Hand tight doesn't mean when it contacts the surface then stop. It means what others have said in that when it contacts the surface, go 1/4 to one full turn more and no more. I've been doing it that way for years and have never had a filter leak at the seal or strip the threads. They have all been easy to come off as well with no filter wrench needed.

It's fine to diseagree with what I have to say but calling me names is not cool and shows your lack of self restraint. On that note, ever hear of capital letters? Or that it's "explosions" not "explotions." Before you call someone a joke, you should at least lean how to use proper grammar and spelling. You may be from Maine but you're no Stephen King.

Also, did you actually take the time to read what you posted for a link?

Quote:
Originally Posted by The Engine Oil Bible
9. Clean off the face of the oil filter mount on the side of the engine block using a rag. Use a little oil on a rag to wipe around the seal of the new filter and spin it on by hand. Once its locked against the side of the engine block, another quarter-turn by hand is normally enough to secure it in place.

Last edited by PhilSine; 01-26-2008 at 04:39 PM. Reason: To quote the link that the Mainerd put up.
PhilSine is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2008, 09:23 PM   #13
formula91
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 102984
Join Date: Dec 2005
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Northbrook, IL
Vehicle:
2005 2.5RS 4EAT
Platinum Silver

Default

Hand tightening is best, it prevents overtightening. If you're a torque-spec nerd, I suppose it's fine, but isn't necessary at all. Turn it by hand, no big deal. The manual does say 1 full rotation after contact. And no, contact doesn't mean when it's tightened by hand. Contact means when they touch... However, there are those "oil tech" dudes who screw it on like crazy tight, and yet have no problems. The first time I tried to get my filter off... My goodness... So really, the way you tighten it won't kill it either way. As long as it's not overtorqued like a gorilla.
formula91 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2008, 09:40 PM   #14
Sir-Knight
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 73636
Join Date: Nov 2004
Chapter/Region: E. Canada
Location: the 'wa, ontario, canada
Vehicle:
2007 Impreza 2.5i SE
newport blue pearl

Default

dealer cranked the filter on my first change real tight... so tight that 6 guys tried to tag team it off in a driveway garage day... must've fought it for an hour before it came off.
Sir-Knight is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2008, 11:57 PM   #15
RaceFaceXC
NASIOC Supporter
 
Member#: 165749
Join Date: Dec 2007
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: stupid Florida
Vehicle:
2007 No YELLING
on the bus!

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by watchunglava View Post
i use an oil fliter socket on my torque wrench when i tighten down the filter never had any problems . never tighten a fliter beyond the recogmended torque. i have no idea who the noob is who said dont tighten it down so its easier to remove the next time. that dude is a joke. its all about pressure , warpage, and possible explotions. if you care about your engine the oem filters are a joke too. use a k and n gold if you can afford it . it filters down to some insane micros . also i recogmend a magnetic drain plug to pick up any filings from cold starts and such , between changes. its either get the magnet or have filings in your brankcase!!!!! ive found one for $10 on ebay . change your oil frequently!!! im sure most people on here drive their cars hard . use the proper oil for the time of the year in your region. this is the greatest site ever!!!! http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html good reading ladys and gents.
Haha, possible explosions huh? KN oil filters are crap. pure, uncut, 100% Columbian crap. Subie OEM filters are very good quality. But if the micron filtration size your thing, thats cool. Ignorance is bliss.
RaceFaceXC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-27-2008, 01:44 AM   #16
leafs fan
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 109882
Join Date: Mar 2006
Chapter/Region: E. Canada
Location: Ontario, Canada
Vehicle:
2006 2.5i wagon
2011 Ford Flex

Default

Anyone have diy instructions on doing oil changes yourself. I havent done it since high school but I'd like to start changing it myself.
leafs fan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-27-2008, 06:18 AM   #17
mopartodd
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 164929
Join Date: Nov 2007
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: NC
Vehicle:
2010 2.5i Outback
Satin White

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sir-Knight View Post
dealer cranked the filter on my first change real tight... so tight that 6 guys tried to tag team it off in a driveway garage day... must've fought it for an hour before it came off.
I've had this happen as well on one of my cars. Jiffy Lube install no less. The thing was so tight that after I destroyed the filter case trying to get it off I had to resort to using a cold chisel on the base plate to CUT it of.

Too, I've had the opposite happen. Again, another Jiffy Lube install, the filter worked loose on a roadtrip to PA. Ended up loosing close to 2 qts. of oil. Sorry WVa water supply.
mopartodd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-27-2008, 09:53 AM   #18
flstffxe
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 155358
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Coon Rapids, MN
Vehicle:
2008 Forester
Steel Silver

Default

^^^I worked at valvoline for 3 years back in the day. I will say a lot of people are hard on places like valvoline and jiffy lube because of stuff like that. I am not say some don't have a right to be hard on them, most of it is in the managers hands on how heshe trains the crew. Honestly some stores are pure crap because of a bad manager. I managed at least 3 stores in my time there and did not have one service failure from me or my crew. Even at the good stores there are still going to be bad days. Many of those store do 75-150 cars a day. which doesn't seem that bad for a place set up to do it. However one needs to think about where some cars have there oil filter and keep in mind when many cars get into the shop they have been there in line idling for 10-20 min or just off the freeway. Every one who works there has the scars from 400-700 degree exhaust to prove it. It is not an easy job when things are that hot, any one who doubts it try doing one on my 2 '08 forester, the cats are wrapped around the oil filter 1000 degree cat vs flesh, the flesh will just sizzle.
I was picky in my shops the crew was all trained the same way how tight to put a filter on and drain plug it. The only stripped plugs I seen where from other stores and I would re-tap them to send the customer away with a real plug not some self tapping crap or rubber stopper piece. As for filters being on tight when you do a 100+ cars a day you can get them really tight by hand with out thinking about it after a few months of doing it. There is however no excuse for a loose filter or plug or lack of oil, draining the trans and not the oil. Those shops deserve the bad rep.

Would I take my own car to a so called quick lube shop, HELL NO, unless I know the manager and how he/she trains and who they hire.
flstffxe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-28-2008, 07:23 PM   #19
EvoSpeed
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 155430
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Bay Area, Cali
Vehicle:
2008 Nissan
SE-R Spec V

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 240c View Post
I have a 06 Impreza 2.5i, I chang my own oil. I have noticed that the oil filter is leaking every time. I know you should only hand tighten, because you can bend the new filter.
In the owners manual it states to tighten 1 1/2 or 2 1/2 (cant recall) revolutions past hand tight. I change my own also. I couldnt fit a wrench in there but i just wrenched the hell out of it with my hand. Got it about 1 1/2 turns past tight and its good.
EvoSpeed is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-28-2008, 07:35 PM   #20
WeldingHank
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 98645
Join Date: Oct 2005
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Lawrence,ma
Vehicle:
2002 WRX Wagon
PSM

Default

i just tighten the filter with my wrist untill i can't tighten it anymore. no elbow/shoulder involved. Have yet to have a problem with leaking or the filter not coming off.
WeldingHank is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-28-2008, 08:13 PM   #21
240c
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 122229
Join Date: Aug 2006
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Fostoria, Ohio
Vehicle:
1997 Outback
Blue/grey

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilSine View Post
I've never heard that overtightening can bend the filter. Oil filters are pretty tough.

You hand tighten so that the filter can be more easily removed at the next change.

Also, you coat the rubber gasket with a light film of old oil to help seal it. If I were you, I'd get an OE filter or at least a Bosch filter or better and stay away from Fram (not saying you're using a Fram, just saying stay away from them).
I am using the Bosch filters, and I alway coat the seal with oil.
240c is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-28-2008, 08:18 PM   #22
240c
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 122229
Join Date: Aug 2006
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Fostoria, Ohio
Vehicle:
1997 Outback
Blue/grey

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mopartodd View Post
According to the 2007 Subaru Impreza Shop Manual you should hand tighten 1 rotation past where the seal meets the block, then using a filter wrench tighten another 2/3 - 3/4 rotation.

5) Install the oil filter by turning it by hand, being
careful not to damage seal rubber.
Tighten the oil filter 68 mm (2.68 in) in diameter
(approx. 1 rotation) after the seal rubber of the oil
filter comes in contact with cylinder block or oil
cooler. Use the 14 Nm (1.4 kgf-m, 10.3 ft-lb)
torque, if the torque wrench is available.
Tighten the oil filter with 65 mm (2.56 in) in diameter
further (approx. 2/3 3/4 rotations) after the
seal rubber of the oil filter comes in contact with cylinder
block or oil cooler. Use the 12 Nm (1.2 kgf-m,
8.7 ft-lb) torque, if the torque wrench is available.

In other words, if you are just going hand tight you are not getting the filter tight enough.
Wow thats tight, I just did not wont to damage the new filter. The Original filter that came with the car was so tight that it stripped the end of the oil filter and I had to use cannel locks to get it off.
240c is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-29-2008, 09:10 AM   #23
watchunglava
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 168862
Join Date: Jan 2008
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Portland Maine
Vehicle:
2007 ej253n/a 5speed
Red Sox Nation Lifer

Default k and n

Quote:
Originally Posted by RaceFaceXC View Post
Haha, possible explosions huh? KN oil filters are crap. pure, uncut, 100% Columbian crap. Subie OEM filters are very good quality. But if the micron filtration size your thing, thats cool. Ignorance is bliss.
why do you think k and n are crap? oem subaru filters are purolator. i hardly think of purolator as a performance manufactor. i can see how upseting it is to spend $12 on an oil filter but thats how it is . please tell me why k and n are "crap" . and please dont refer to drugs ok thanks its just so unclassy.

http://www.knfilters.com/oilfilter.htm

lets look at the purolator the stock subie one is the base model . now lets look at the purolator plus , its a total knock off of the k and n one
http://www.pureoil.com/

Last edited by watchunglava; 01-29-2008 at 09:11 AM. Reason: forgot something
watchunglava is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-29-2008, 09:15 AM   #24
watchunglava
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 168862
Join Date: Jan 2008
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Portland Maine
Vehicle:
2007 ej253n/a 5speed
Red Sox Nation Lifer

Default anyway

whatever as far as the dudes issue . hey man are you using a new crush washer when you change your filter????
watchunglava is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-29-2008, 09:38 AM   #25
anickode
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 141633
Join Date: Feb 2007
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Vehicle:
2002 WRX Wagon
Shiny new silver!!!

Default

new crush rings should be used every time. The OEM filters are not as ****ty as you'd think, and besides, then if one should ever fail on you, you can go straight to Subaru of America to take up your case, instead of trying to deal with a third party company. Just try getting a new engine out of them if you were running an aftermarket (and especially an over-rated "performance") oil filter. Not gonna happen. I'm not sure what it is about the K+N brand, but I trust them about as much as FRAM
anickode is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Hand Tight Oil Filter Subarudave09 Service & Maintenance 20 06-23-2009 08:12 PM
Poltec Lateral Links: Won't stay tight javid Brakes, Steering & Suspension 14 09-19-2005 05:08 PM
what happen if you twist your oil filter too tight? dawhim Newbies & FAQs 14 09-21-2004 11:59 AM
OEM Oil Filters, OEM Turbo oil filters, fuel filters, spark plugs, air filters LangstonSubaru Vendor 'For Sale' Classifieds 125 03-29-2004 08:25 AM
Stay away from K&N oil filters! JonnySubaru Service & Maintenance 12 03-19-2004 10:07 AM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:04 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2014 Axivo Inc.
Copyright ©1999 - 2014, North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, Inc.