Mirror Shine New and Old Paint Guide

[p2adan]

I posted this in someone's thread and I keep seeing people asking for a good method for maxing after they get new painted pieces on their car so here ya go.

I used to detail cars at a BMW body shop so this might be a little bit more advaced guide, but none-the-less it is a good method and works for mirror finish on new and old paint. So here's some tips and procedure. 1 car = 2-3hrs

Supplies Needed:
1) The usual Car-washing supplies (mild soap, towels, brushes)
2) Good Power-buffer w/ good pads
3) Medium grit rubbing compound
4) Superfine grit aka Protectant Wax/Polish (Usually light blue or pink in color and fruity smell, and a bit more expensive then other wax compounds)
5)Blue Disposable Paper shop towels (you will use a lot of them because you need to keep a clean rubbing surface, picked up a double pack of large rolls for $2.80 at Wal-Mart in auto section)

First and foremost, clean the car like you've never cleaned it before. Get every little nook and cranny on the exterior that might trap dirt as this will be detrimental to your time spent buffing. Dirt is the enemy. <---Dirt
Dry completely as water will also be bad if mixed with the compound while buffing.

Tip: This is a good time to take any emblems you want off the car so you don't get compound all in between the letters and so you can clean adhesive and buff the dull emblem spots.

Tip: Perform work out of sunlight or high-heat as it will bake the compound to the car.

Get the buffer and apply a small amount of rubbing compound to the applicator pad and tool a 2'x2' area at a time (Hood, doors and roof go quick). The compound is usually white to off-white in color, and when you squeeze it between your fingers you can feel the grit). Try not to fling tons of compound or rub it into the plastic/rubber trim pieces as it is a biznitch to get off and if it does get on there (ineviteably it will) make sure to wipe/rub it off completely before continuing to buff. Sometimes hand rubbing with towel will work best where the buffer pad wont. Also, when using the buffer follow any product-specific directions, and dont press too hard as the grit will do all the work.
When done with 2'x2' area, get a very soft lint-free towel (blue shop paper towel works best since you can get a clean one easily if it gets dirt on it, and dirt means scratches!) Rub lightly, in a circular motion, to remove the compound from the car. You must let the compound dry and harden a little bit, but Do Not let it dry completely as it will be a pain to get off, hence the 2'x2' sections. Once the entire car is done, double check that no compound is on the rubber/trim/nooks or between painted panels (such as hood-to-fender or fender-to-door).

This process will remove all or most uneven, droopy, wavy, orange-peely clear coat finishes and clear coat scratches on new and old paint. On old paint, this will also help solve any prior wax circle issues and give new life, gloss and longevity to the finish.

Next, wash again just to clean off extra compound on the clear coat. Dry completely.

Now BY HAND ONLY use the blue paper towels to apply the pink stuff in small 2'x2' areas at a time, you can apply directly to the towel or the paint, but don't use to much. Use a second (clean) towel for removal of the compound and in a circular motion, lightly buff. Again, always keep the applicator and removal towels clean of dirt (get another towel) and when either gets too much compound on them, just grab another towel. This is why I say you will need a lot of them. This blue/pink compound isn't as hard to remove from the trim/rubber as the actual rubbing compound is, but still can be if it is left to dry.

[TexSurfer]

Is this a specific process for a product called Mirror Shine?

[p2adan]

Nope, just a good way to get a mirror finish from new and old clear coat. This is usually something people are looking at spending time on when they get their car back from the body shop with new painted additions to their car and want their old paint to look new and shiny with the new pieces.

The only product-specific things are the blue paper shop towels and any of the compounds specific directions, other then that find something that works for you, any brand.

[TexSurfer]

Ok, just wondering because you use color references and smell references. So I thought there was a specific product being used here. Because non of my polishes are as you describe. So, since this is just your method (and by no means "advanced") you may want to clarify some things.

If you want to give an advanced guide about something as delicate as polishing out paint you need to get a bit more detailed about it. Because honestly I wouldn't touch most of your methods. Not trying to be a dick but this is not a novice activity and not something to be taken lightly. This activity could really damge the paint if not undertaken with proper instruction or supervision.

Here is a good way to present a guide...and a guide for polishing at that: http://autopia.org/forum/guide-detai...erfection.html

[p2adan]

Well if I had 6 years to type and show each step, I could produce a guide as detailed as that.
I am assuming whoever is needing to do this has at least some minimal knowledge of car detailing and waxing and that it may be a little more advanced for them, but not an "Advanced Technique". By the way, we are talking about clear coat finish here, not paint issues. If you have paint issues, that is a whole 'nother guide.

Rubbing compound can damage the finish if you are not careful, just like if you had sand on your car wash sponge, common sense if you ask me. My references to blue/pink fruity-smelling compounds is a general recommendation for finding the right one, if you don't have something like that, then you don't have the right kind.

Bottom line is take your time and learn or have a professional do it. If you need every last detail on how to clean and wax then you probably shouldn't be trying to do this yourself.

[TexSurfer]

Originally Posted by p2adan

Well if I had 6 years to type and show each step, I could produce a guide as detailed as that.
I am assuming whoever is needing to do this has at least some minimal knowledge of car detailing and waxing and that it may be a little more advanced for them, but not an "Advanced Technique". By the way, we are talking about clear coat finish here, not paint issues. If you have paint issues, that is a whole 'nother guide.

Rubbing compound can damage the finish if you are not careful, just like if you had sand on your car wash sponge, common sense if you ask me. My references to blue/pink fruity-smelling compounds is a general recommendation for finding the right one, if you don't have something like that, then you don't have the right kind.

Bottom line is take your time and learn or have a professional do it. If you need every last detail on how to clean and wax then you probably shouldn't be trying to do this yourself.

Really not trying to start a pissing match with you but I must correct for those reading this that are not aware. Your assuption follows the saying...look around the forums, plenty of people are asking about this kind of thing that have no idea where to start. And to correct your clear coat vs. paint issues..the clearcoat is a paint issue. Clearcoat is un-pigmented paint. And your idea of finding the right product is laughable! Recommending that someone find a blue or pink fruity smelling product, or "you don't have the right kind" is absured (honestly I can't believe you actually said that). If that were true, Menzerna, Optimimum, the list could go on, would be the "wrong" product. Bottom line, if you are after every last detail then it just means you care enough to know how to do it yourself the right way. Sorry bro, I know you just wanted to help out but you can't take a topic like polishing and not give detail. If you want to give your opinion fine, but count on professionals to correct you.

[Kean]

Originally Posted by TexSurfer

Really not trying to start a pissing match with you but I must correct for those reading this that are not aware. Your assuption follows the saying...look around the forums, plenty of people are asking about this kind of thing that have no idea where to start. And to correct your clear coat vs. paint issues..the clearcoat is a paint issue. Clearcoat is un-pigmented paint. And your idea of finding the right product is laughable! Recommending that someone find a blue or pink fruity smelling product, or "you don't have the right kind" is absured (honestly I can't believe you actually said that). If that were true, Menzerna, Optimimum, the list could go on, would be the "wrong" product. Bottom line, if you are after every last detail then it just means you care enough to know how to do it yourself the right way. Sorry bro, I know you just wanted to help out but you can't take a topic like polishing and not give detail. If you want to give your opinion fine, but count on professionals to correct you.

......you hit the nail on the head.

[p2adan]

It was not meant to be the end-all-be-all of car buffing and waxing. Just a tip guide. If you are a beginner, then TexSurfer's guide is definitely the one to go with to learn about all the details.

[Kean]

Originally Posted by p2adan

It was not meant to be the end-all-be-all of car buffing and waxing. Just a tip guide. If you are a beginner, then TexSurfer's guide is definitely the one to go with to learn about all the details.

....hmmmm. You're missing the point entirely so I'll just be blunt. Regardless of the reader's experience, the advice you provided is useless (or simply wrong at certain points). Any professional or knowledgeable, amateur detailer will know that products, tools and techniques will differ and produce varying results. This is what Tex was trying to explain to you.

[Zspectrum]

Originally Posted by p2adan

I posted this in someone's thread and I keep seeing people asking for a good method for maxing after they get new painted pieces on their car so here ya go.

I used to detail cars at a BMW body shop so this might be a little bit more advaced guide, but none-the-less it is a good method and works for mirror finish on new and old paint. So here's some tips and procedure. 1 car = 2-3hrs

Supplies Needed:
1) The usual Car-washing supplies (mild soap, towels, brushes)
2) Good Power-buffer w/ good pads
3) Medium grit rubbing compound
4) Superfine grit aka Protectant Wax/Polish (Usually light blue or pink in color and fruity smell, and a bit more expensive then other wax compounds)
5)Blue Disposable Paper shop towels (you will use a lot of them because you need to keep a clean rubbing surface, picked up a double pack of large rolls for $2.80 at Wal-Mart in auto section)

First and foremost, clean the car like you've never cleaned it before. Get every little nook and cranny on the exterior that might trap dirt as this will be detrimental to your time spent buffing. Dirt is the enemy. <---Dirt
Dry completely as water will also be bad if mixed with the compound while buffing.

Tip: This is a good time to take any emblems you want off the car so you don't get compound all in between the letters and so you can clean adhesive and buff the dull emblem spots.

Tip: Perform work out of sunlight or high-heat as it will bake the compound to the car.

Get the buffer and apply a small amount of rubbing compound to the applicator pad and tool a 2'x2' area at a time (Hood, doors and roof go quick). The compound is usually white to off-white in color, and when you squeeze it between your fingers you can feel the grit). Try not to fling tons of compound or rub it into the plastic/rubber trim pieces as it is a biznitch to get off and if it does get on there (ineviteably it will) make sure to wipe/rub it off completely before continuing to buff. Sometimes hand rubbing with towel will work best where the buffer pad wont. Also, when using the buffer follow any product-specific directions, and dont press too hard as the grit will do all the work.
When done with 2'x2' area, get a very soft lint-free towel (blue shop paper towel works best since you can get a clean one easily if it gets dirt on it, and dirt means scratches!) Rub lightly, in a circular motion, to remove the compound from the car. You must let the compound dry and harden a little bit, but Do Not let it dry completely as it will be a pain to get off, hence the 2'x2' sections. Once the entire car is done, double check that no compound is on the rubber/trim/nooks or between painted panels (such as hood-to-fender or fender-to-door).

This process will remove all or most uneven, droopy, wavy, orange-peely clear coat finishes and clear coat scratches on new and old paint. On old paint, this will also help solve any prior wax circle issues and give new life, gloss and longevity to the finish.

Next, wash again just to clean off extra compound on the clear coat. Dry completely.

Now BY HAND ONLY use the blue paper towels to apply the pink stuff in small 2'x2' areas at a time, you can apply directly to the towel or the paint, but don't use to much. Use a second (clean) towel for removal of the compound and in a circular motion, lightly buff. Again, always keep the applicator and removal towels clean of dirt (get another towel) and when either gets too much compound on them, just grab another towel. This is why I say you will need a lot of them. This blue/pink compound isn't as hard to remove from the trim/rubber as the actual rubbing compound is, but still can be if it is left to dry.

Wow many years of body shop experience and you still know very little. Who in their right mind is going to use blue shop towels on paint when even quite a few "supposedly" good microfibers or cotton towels can still do damage to the paint. And removing in circles is a great way to induce swirls. Please show me a picture of your paint or someones BMWs paint that you've personally detailed under halogens and if its not entirely screwed Ill take back everything I've said, until then please please dont give anymore advice to people about detailing.