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Old 07-04-2008, 05:56 PM   #1
impreza_GC8
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Default How To: Paranoid Fabrications saggy butt spacer install (very easy!)

My car sat a bit low in the rear with Tanabe GF210's. This is a common problem on Subarus with any aftermarket lowering spring. Paranoid Fabrications makes suspension spacers in varying sizes to fix your saggy butt problem. They are $20-$30, well worth the cost. Here is a how to on installing spacers without having to take everything apart. What you'll need:
-the spacers (duh)
-a floor jack capable of lifting your Subie
-your factory spare tire jack (in the trunk dummy)
-socket set
-open end wrench set
-about an hour
-common sense (highly important!)



1.) First unbolt the rear swaybar from the endlinks. This will give your suspension more independent travel, allowing you to lower your strut from its upper mount without having to remove the strut from the wheel hub. I don't have a photo of this, sorry.

2.) Remove your rear seat. 3 bolts for the butt section of the seat, and another 3 for the back section of the seat.


3.) Jack the car up from the rear differential using the floor jack. This will raise the car up and unload the rear suspension completely.


4.) Take your factory Subaru spare tire jack from the trunk and wedge it under one of the rear tires. Raise the jack. This will effectively "load" the suspension again, raising the wheel up and making it so you can loosen the strut from its top mount without it falling down. Basically you are raising the wheel up a few inches.


5.) Using your sockets, open end wrenches and your patience loosen and remove the 3 nuts on the shock tower.


6.) Once the nuts are removed, lower the spare tire jack while keeping a hand on the top of the shock in the fenderwell until the shock comes free from its mount. There should be just enough space up there to slip the spacer over the studs.


7.) Jack the shock back up into the fenderwell using the spare tire jack and firmly guide it back into its proper mounts. Put the nuts back on the shock tower. Remember that the spacer will reduce the stud lenght so don't over tigthen your nuts.

8.) When the shock is tight again, lower the wheel with the spare tire jack and remove it from under the wheel. Move over to the other side of the car and repeat the entire procedure.

I don't have pics of before and after from the same angle because the spacers were so small that they were barely noticable. However, the car sits perfectly even whereas before depending on the surface of the road it would actually tuck a wheel in the back. That is not the case anymore. Couple these spacers with a minor fender roll job and you can kiss any rubbing issues goodbye.
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Old 07-04-2008, 08:15 PM   #2
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This is an alternative method to the original Saggy Butt Shim Tutorial.

It should be noted that a little more than half the people who try the "Just Slip It In" method listed in this thread end up finding out that it won't fit and have to remove the whole strut anyway, so be prepared to do that.
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Old 10-03-2008, 01:14 PM   #3
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anyone try the OP's method on a wrx wagon yet? i dont want to remove the whole strut, and would rather just install these shims when i install springs.
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Old 10-03-2008, 01:39 PM   #4
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not to thread jack, but will the shims work with a rear strut bar too? will there be enough thread left on the top hat studs?
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Old 10-03-2008, 01:44 PM   #5
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only the 1/4" ones will work with a rear strut bar and stock studs.
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Old 10-03-2008, 05:32 PM   #6
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so how many of these spacers can you fit on one side? Just one or can you get 2-3 in there if you have a severe saggy but?

Edit: I didn't see they have different sizes. But can you stack a couple together like a 1/2' and a 1/4' one together

Last edited by sub-e90; 10-03-2008 at 05:38 PM.
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Old 10-03-2008, 05:41 PM   #7
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So long as you're willing to go the extra mile to install new studs in the strut mounts, you could easily stack up an inch or so. You real limitation is going to be the suspension and axle angles at the knuckle.
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Old 10-03-2008, 05:47 PM   #8
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Yeah, I just was wondering if anyone has tryed stacking them and if they have had any problems. So the biggest one you can put on is the 1/2" without replacing the studs and messing with the suspension
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Old 10-03-2008, 05:49 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sub-e90 View Post
Yeah, I just was wondering if anyone has tryed stacking them and if they have had any problems. So the biggest one you can put on is the 1/2" without replacing the studs and messing with the suspension
No, 1/2" requires longer studs.

1/4" is the max with a strut tower brace
3/8" is the max for stock studs
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Old 10-03-2008, 06:03 PM   #10
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i would rather people not stack these, if you need something larger then 1/2" just let me know and i am sure i can make something thicker for you. just requires a little more time for ordering materials.

Shane
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Old 10-04-2008, 01:41 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by williaty View Post
No, 1/2" requires longer studs.

1/4" is the max with a strut tower brace
3/8" is the max for stock studs
Ok I see!! thanks fo the info
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Old 10-04-2008, 02:03 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PARANOID56 View Post
only the 1/4" ones will work with a rear strut bar and stock studs.
thanks for the info. these are probably the ones i'll go with cuz of strut bar.



anyone have any input on this:
Quote:
Originally Posted by YinUCSD View Post
anyone try the OP's method on a wrx wagon yet? i dont want to remove the whole strut, and would rather just install these shims when i install springs.
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Old 10-11-2009, 11:20 PM   #13
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Okay, I tried doing this on my '06 wagon...

Currently it's still on jackstands as I somehow twisted the strut mount so that the studs are no longer lining up with the strut tower holes. I'm kind of freaked out because I can't seem to rotate it back. Is there something I could/should do (short of taking the strut off entirely)?
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Old 10-11-2009, 11:32 PM   #14
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you need to just manhandle them back into alignment. you might need a extra set of hands to have somebody put a jack under the knuckle and jack it up wile you try to align it.
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Old 08-07-2010, 01:00 AM   #15
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hi, would it be possible to make a 1" spacer and if it is, can you pm me with a price? I have some major butt sag... my wheel gap in the front is around 3.5 fingers and rear is only about 1.5...
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Old 08-07-2010, 01:06 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yokomo963 View Post
hi, would it be possible to make a 1" spacer and if it is, can you pm me with a price? I have some major butt sag... my wheel gap in the front is around 3.5 fingers and rear is only about 1.5...
You'll have better luck PMing him rather than posting in a random thread.
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Old 08-07-2010, 02:01 PM   #17
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Congratulations on your install.

*******


See the OP's original pictures. Never support a car using only a floor-jack on the center differential without the use of [two] jack-stands.

Further, using the OEM jack under one tire is both incorrect and extremely dangerous.
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Old 08-07-2010, 02:32 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big-E View Post
Congratulations on your install.

*******


See the OP's original pictures. Never support a car using only a floor-jack on the center differential without the use of [two] jack-stands.

Further, using the OEM jack under one tire is both incorrect and extremely dangerous.
You beat me to it!

A set of harbor freight 3 ton jack stands can be had for less than $20!!! Well worth the price.
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Old 08-08-2010, 12:14 PM   #19
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Step 9: take the car in for alignment.
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Old 09-07-2010, 07:24 PM   #20
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The 3/8" spacers cured my saggy butt wagon, Thanks Paranoid Fabs (Shane) for a quick & cost effective solution.
PS: The embryo exhaust hangers cured my exhaust rattle too, so make that 2 Thank yous

Also Thank you to impreza_GC8 for the great post
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Old 11-14-2010, 02:56 AM   #21
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I'm having some problems with mine (3/8" spacer on a wagon)

got them on the struts after putting on STi springs and Dspec struts
while tightening the strut-top nuts 12mm, the nut grips the stud and starts unwinding it from the spacer
has anyone else had this problem?

wondering whether I should locktite the nuts set into the spacer before i install struts

other question- should the spacer go on top of the spring seat and the metal plate that says 4WD OUT (not the dust cover), or between the two pieces?
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Old 11-14-2010, 08:50 AM   #22
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marc -
1). The stud should be pressed into the strut housing although I'm not sure of the brand you are using. If the splines that hold it in place are sheared & if you have a welder you could tack them in place or get a regular bolt in there to replace it as Lock-tite probably won't hold it. If you are using Ny-Lock nuts maybe try standard nuts and lock washers instead especially if you can't get an xtra set of hands to help.
2). the spacer goes on top of the strut assembly, over the studs then into the body.
I tied a string to the outer most stud to guide it into the body & it worked like a champ as I was alone when I did them.

Maybe williaty can chime you in?
BOL, Bob
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Old 11-14-2010, 12:04 PM   #23
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marcf, are you using the stock studs? or are these the bolts?
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Old 11-14-2010, 12:43 PM   #24
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Either the stud is spinning (which is weird and bad) or he's using bolts and they're spinning, which is to be expected.
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Old 11-14-2010, 04:42 PM   #25
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I'm using the longer bolts available from Paranoid Fabrications, with a 3/8" spacer

I tightened the bolts quite hard into the spacer , but the ny-lock nuts still unwind them once installed

Used 2 regular nuts on a few of the studs to tried twist them back into place, worked on the first 2, but the 3rd keeps spining (makes me think I've stripped that nut out of the spacer)

In hindsight, the stock studs probably would have been enough, even for a potential strut bar, after the dust cap came off

Shane- has the 'Longer stud kit' always been bolts?, no picture on the website for Impreza studs, but the legacy kit pictures studs

I'm going to try get new studs today, the old ones look too damaged to get back into the strut-top
would have to remove the nuts from the spacer to allow studs
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