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Old 12-05-2008, 07:23 PM   #1
CR22
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Question Wheels width vs. wheel weight on street car

I've been looking at some possible wheel options off tire rack and I'm not sure exactly what I need. Here is an example of two forged wheels that interest me.

Volk Racing RE30 18 x 8.5 @ 17.0 lbs.

vs.

SSR Competition 18 x 8 @ 14.5 lbs.

What would be the better all around daily driven wheel, and is the trade off in Volk weight worth the advantages in wheel width, or will it barely be noticeable in street use?

The Volks are heavier, but allow for more tire on the road.
The SSRs are much lighter but also lose some of the width.
I've also wondered how the ~2 lb. difference will affect acceleration/steering feel/braking.
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Old 12-05-2008, 10:12 PM   #2
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Honestly, if you drove the car with those 2 wheels back to back, same car, same everything, only difference being the wheels, you wouldnt be able to notice the difference.
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Old 12-05-2008, 11:36 PM   #3
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hmm i guess that's why rotas are widely accepted even with the weight difference. I still would rather buy an original branded wheel style that is forged just for peace of mind.
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Old 12-06-2008, 01:22 AM   #4
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Do whatever makes you happy. Buy the wheel you like. For that small weight difference you likely won't notice a difference between the two with the power your car has (assuming WRX or STi)

Now when I had a 122hp Mazda Protege and I dropped 3lbs per wheel and tire combo I felt a pretty good increase in acceleration.
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Old 12-06-2008, 04:17 AM   #5
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id save some $$$ and get rpf1's
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Old 12-06-2008, 08:10 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CR22 View Post
I still would rather buy an original branded wheel style that is forged just for peace of mind.
Why? They're just as likely to get damaged over a cast wheel. Forging is for weight reduction to maintain equivalent strength.

I do like Scotty's idea though. If you want name brand grab yourself some RPF1's
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Old 12-06-2008, 12:32 PM   #7
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You won't feel the difference...honestly 8" width is more than enough for 99% of drivers. I was looking at the two same wheels. I'm going 18x8.5 Volks, but only for looks/stance. I love the SSR Comps and I think it's an awesome choice for a lightweight street/track wheel.
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Old 12-06-2008, 12:35 PM   #8
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For a DD, you won't notice the extra weight much at all. You will probably notice a change in tire weight even more than wheel weight.

For a DD, I would go with the heavier wheel. It will resist damage from potholes much better than the SSR's. SSR's are great track wheels, but bend more easily than a lot of other wheels out there.
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Old 12-06-2008, 02:00 PM   #9
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Quote:
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hmm i guess that's why rotas are widely accepted even with the weight difference. I still would rather buy an original branded wheel style that is forged just for peace of mind.


you could have 2 identical cars----one with oontzie blingie wheels on it and one with Rotas

if nobody TOLD you which was which....you would NEVER know which was which

and there are lots of teams racing Rotas with no issuess

so what the **** is a 'original branded wheel style' anyway
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Old 12-06-2008, 02:10 PM   #10
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There are more than a few wheel styles I like a lot more that are a few pounds heavier...I guess I'll take another look back at the ones I threw out of the equation just because of weight.

I had thought forged = light weight and stronger but I guess I'm just a newbie.

and to Uncle Scotty: I just have more of an initial trust for a brand name that has spent money on the original design, engineering and manufacturing hence the higher cost per wheel. I don't want to turn this into another rota vs. * thread



Thanks everyone
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Old 12-06-2008, 02:32 PM   #11
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the weight difference is not that noticeable from a butt dyno but the math is still there to show that lighter will benefit more in terms of acceleration. Braking and turning leans more into the factor of what tires and how wide.
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Old 12-06-2008, 03:10 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CR22 View Post
There are more than a few wheel styles I like a lot more that are a few pounds heavier...I guess I'll take another look back at the ones I threw out of the equation just because of weight.

I had thought forged = light weight and stronger but I guess I'm just a newbie.

and to Uncle Scotty: I just have more of an initial trust for a brand name that has spent money on the original design, engineering and manufacturing hence the higher cost per wheel. I don't want to turn this into another rota vs. * thread



Thanks everyone

too bad your logic tree is dead as dog****
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Old 12-06-2008, 04:40 PM   #13
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I got the old SSR comps and some lightweight tires. Shaved 6lbs/corner off the OEM 16s/RE92s (a lightweight combo in its own right). That's a difference you can feel. If you want to feel the difference, go 17" which will save you even more weight on the wheels and save you weight on the tires.
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Old 12-07-2008, 12:16 AM   #14
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few pounds?does it matter on a street car?
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Old 12-07-2008, 01:30 AM   #15
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few pounds?does it matter on a street car?
yes, that is what we are going over.
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Old 12-07-2008, 08:26 AM   #16
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No, on a street car it doesn't. You'll never hit a speed or being a situation that you'll actually need it. On the track it can be a different story dependent on how good you actually are.

If you want lightweight Rota's get DPT's...17x9 with an 18-19lb weight...LOTS of wheel there.

Forged does make a wheel stronger which is why they can get away with using less metal...hence the drop in weight.
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Old 12-07-2008, 08:13 PM   #17
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No, on a street car it doesn't. You'll never hit a speed or being a situation that you'll actually need it. On the track it can be a different story dependent on how good you actually are.
I have to disagree with that. It's not about need on the street, who needs the cars we drive, it's about feelings and excitement. Weight reduction has the greatest impact on acceleration and removing it from rotational mass has the greatest impact. If you reduce the weight enough, you will feel it off the line.

I'm inclined to agree that 2lbs per corner will not make a big difference. I am pretty sure 6lbs per corner will. Perhaps that's the minimum. Perhaps not. I don't know. In all likelihood I will be buying different and heavier tires in a couple of months that will eat most of my weight savings (4 of 6). Perhaps I'll have a better idea then.

Oh, one more thing. Reducing the weight from the outside makes a bigger difference than removing it from the inside. So, lighter tires will have a greater impact on acceleration than lighter wheels. Conversely, going from a fairly lightweight 16" wheel and tire to a heavier 18" wheel is bad. Adding a much heavier 18" wheel is worse and the two combined will almost certainly impact even the most numb of bottoms not to mention drag strip times and braking measurements (though a higher quality tire could counter that).

My 2. No change required.
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Old 12-09-2008, 09:57 AM   #18
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Why not go with 17x8.5 SSRs? about 14 pounds a piece and an extra half inch of width!
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Old 12-09-2008, 10:51 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HerculesPeanut View Post
I have to disagree with that. It's not about need on the street, who needs the cars we drive, it's about feelings and excitement. Weight reduction has the greatest impact on acceleration and removing it from rotational mass has the greatest impact. If you reduce the weight enough, you will feel it off the line.

I'm inclined to agree that 2lbs per corner will not make a big difference. I am pretty sure 6lbs per corner will. Perhaps that's the minimum. Perhaps not. I don't know. In all likelihood I will be buying different and heavier tires in a couple of months that will eat most of my weight savings (4 of 6). Perhaps I'll have a better idea then.

Oh, one more thing. Reducing the weight from the outside makes a bigger difference than removing it from the inside. So, lighter tires will have a greater impact on acceleration than lighter wheels. Conversely, going from a fairly lightweight 16" wheel and tire to a heavier 18" wheel is bad. Adding a much heavier 18" wheel is worse and the two combined will almost certainly impact even the most numb of bottoms not to mention drag strip times and braking measurements (though a higher quality tire could counter that).

My 2. No change required.
Dude, you could have a car with wheels weighing 6 lbs a corner difference and swap them back to back and I seriously doubt you'd ever be able to tell which set you had on. On a track it's going to equal out maybe a couple of tenths a lap, so you're not going to notice that difference in a street application.
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Old 12-09-2008, 11:12 AM   #20
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Quote:
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Dude, you could have a car with wheels weighing 6 lbs a corner difference and swap them back to back and I seriously doubt you'd ever be able to tell which set you had on. On a track it's going to equal out maybe a couple of tenths a lap, so you're not going to notice that difference in a street application.
in a heartbeat

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Old 12-09-2008, 11:22 AM   #21
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funny how this almost turned into brand name vs rota..he never badmouthed rotas..he just said he feels better buying volks or ssrs..ignore uncle scotty he goes off topic often

anyways, which wheel looks better to you?
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Old 12-09-2008, 11:44 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daishi00 View Post
Dude, you could have a car with wheels weighing 6 lbs a corner difference and swap them back to back and I seriously doubt you'd ever be able to tell which set you had on. On a track it's going to equal out maybe a couple of tenths a lap, so you're not going to notice that difference in a street application.
I can only tell you from personal experience. My Cobb Stage 1 was not noticable to the Butt dyno. My downpipe, not really noticable. My new wheels and tires, noticeable from a standing start. Your 2/10ths savings would all happen at that point and if all you are measuring is that point, it is noticeable.
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Old 12-09-2008, 11:51 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HerculesPeanut View Post
I can only tell you from personal experience. My Cobb Stage 1 was not noticable to the Butt dyno. My downpipe, not really noticable. My new wheels and tires, noticeable from a standing start. Your 2/10ths savings would all happen at that point and if all you are measuring is that point, it is noticeable.
You likely changed the rolling diameter.
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Old 12-09-2008, 12:32 PM   #24
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You likely changed the rolling diameter.
I think that going from 36/lbs per corner to 30lbs per corner (17% weight reduction) will make a much greater difference that going from 833 to 848 revs per mile (1.8% size reduction).

Look, I'm not surprised at the skepticism here. I certainly raise my eyebrows every time I read how people can feel a difference due to a down pipe or reflash or lighter pulley or BBK. The best I can say is that I controlled my environment as much as possible and felt a difference at launch. Take what you will, leave the rest.
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Old 12-09-2008, 12:37 PM   #25
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Not saying you didn't notice it, just that most won't and on a street car the difference in performance is negligible at best. On a track car it's a completely different animal.
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