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Old 04-24-2009, 10:53 PM   #226
txl146
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I cleaned mine again after 2 years. Luckily, gasket was in great condition. A lot of gunk had built up inside.
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Old 04-24-2009, 11:50 PM   #227
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rick-l View Post
Yes. It makes a 180 and goes back to the actuator by the passenger side firewall.

You can verify that is the problem by pushing on the pulley (to the left in the picture) to close the throttle when you have high idle.

I think it is a 10 mm wrench. Loosen the nut closest to the front of the car and play with it to get a little slack and then snug them both up. Takes about 5 minutes.

I am not sure where the recall for the cruise control cable clip goes because I ignored that notice.
Another noob question. It's the first day of hot weather in Chicago and my idles been at 1000 but then dropped to normal then back up to 1000 or so in stop and go traffic.

I will attempt to add some slack to the CC cable as I know mine is much tighter than the throttle cable.

But my question is do, what do I loosen first? I don't want to mess anything up with my cruise control? Is it nut B? After loosening nut B, what about nut A? Is C even a nut? See total noobness.

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Old 04-25-2009, 02:28 PM   #228
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A and B just clamp the cable to the bracket so loosen either one and they should turn by hand.

To verify this is the problem when it is fast idling push the throttle plate closed (push to the left where the cable goes into that half moon part) and see if the idle returns to normal.
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Old 04-25-2009, 03:00 PM   #229
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as another cleaner idea try diesel. it will dillute the oil
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Old 04-26-2009, 01:56 PM   #230
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
Another noob question. It's the first day of hot weather in Chicago and my idles been at 1000 but then dropped to normal then back up to 1000 or so in stop and go traffic.

I will attempt to add some slack to the CC cable as I know mine is much tighter than the throttle cable.

But my question is do, what do I loosen first? I don't want to mess anything up with my cruise control? Is it nut B? After loosening nut B, what about nut A? Is C even a nut? See total noobness.

So I was able to successfully add some slack to the cruise control cable right now, and just like the picture, I'm at the end of the thing.
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Old 04-30-2009, 06:40 PM   #231
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How do you prime fuel pump? Just turn key to ignition?
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Old 04-30-2009, 06:50 PM   #232
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Finally figured mine out.
CC cable had slack in it but my throttle cable was the culprit. So if your having probs and the cc cable didn't help try loosening the throttle.
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Old 04-30-2009, 10:30 PM   #233
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeBop86 View Post
How do you prime fuel pump? Just turn key to ignition?
Turn it on and off 2-3 times.
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Old 05-03-2009, 07:58 PM   #234
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Did anyone's idle go up to 2k after cleaning the iacv?
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Old 05-04-2009, 02:39 AM   #235
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dome24 View Post
Finally figured mine out.
CC cable had slack in it but my throttle cable was the culprit. So if your having probs and the cc cable didn't help try loosening the throttle.

i have to try this cuz here n there in traffic the car does this crap n its driving me nutz!!!!
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Old 05-10-2009, 04:50 AM   #236
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Excellent write-up. Unfortunately, I cannot find part # 22659AA120 (new gasket) anywhere! I tried SubaruGenuineParts and SubaruParts and neither recognize that part # and I can't find any mention of that gasket in any of their OEM catalogs...?
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Old 05-10-2009, 04:59 AM   #237
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixpack subaru View Post
My GOD thank you someone FINALLY has found this!!
Down here it's called sa459, (S-ubaru A-ust 459), upper engine cleaner. Used on EVERY SINGLE SERVICE-every 12,500kms down here.
I've been using delco stuff that smells and looks and behaves the same, but apparently it's off the market here. I just bought a dozen cans at $5.50 each!! GREAT STUFF, can't talk it up enough...
and I'll tell you something else...
I used to use it about once a month on my ea82Turbo that had a carby C/Case and used to re-breathe ALOT of blowby, as with WRX's, the PCV is upstream of the turbo, and with all that carbon/build-up on the compressor wheel, it took a while to spool. I have found that by spraying this stuff into the inlet tract of the turbo at 'fast idle', you can effectively clean the compressor wheel and remove unwanted oil/carbon deposits on intercooler, BOV, throttle body, idle speed controller, and even the catalytic converter gets a clean. You can use it on everything from boost solenoids to oxy sensors, (next best thing to sonic bathing). It is also really good weed killer and will cause birth defects in your unborn children. We had british petroleum test some to make a 'smokeless' version so the dealer network wouldn't have to fit carbon filters on the exhaust extraction at everysingle workshop. Bp came back and told me that "...once they took the 'smoke', (read;carcinogens), out, it just didn't work anymore.."

I cannot talk this stuff up enough-had a go just the other night.
Chainsaw wouldn't start-suspected a 'feathered' s'plug, gave it a squirt of SA459, (upper cyl cleaner), two rips later she was running!! I just love it.
Sorry to rant----it just gets me excited

Cheers
Sixpack

That's super cool Sixpack - where can we get some of that stuff here in the 'states? It sounds legitimate for sure. I was thinking of using Seafoam in some of the areas you mentioned, would that accomplish the same thing?

Also, I know this is old and I'm sorry I was just curious if anyone else has tried putting any type of cleaner straight into the turbo inlet hose to clean some gunk off the compressor on the turbo and stuff? If so, which line on the turbo inlet hose? There are like 3-4 of them... and could I pour a little Seafoam in that area, once I establish a safe place to pour it?
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Old 05-16-2009, 03:06 AM   #238
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can i clean the iacv with those small packets of rubbing alcohol? the ones used by doctors to apply on skins...
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Old 05-16-2009, 03:33 AM   #239
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sure, but I would've needed about 25-50 of those little guys to clean mine...
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Old 05-16-2009, 03:46 AM   #240
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Seafoam worked wonders for me. I had a can laying around. Make sure you clean not only the part of the IACV you take off but also the part that's still on the car. Q-tips and Seafoam worked awesome.
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Old 05-16-2009, 04:22 PM   #241
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should i disconnect the battery before taking the iacv off? and after i put it back on connect the battery. turn the ignition to on and then off and repeat for 3 times?
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Old 05-16-2009, 06:30 PM   #242
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flat4TW View Post
should i disconnect the battery before taking the iacv off? and after i put it back on connect the battery. turn the ignition to on and then off and repeat for 3 times?
Yes, yes, and yes.
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Old 05-17-2009, 01:24 PM   #243
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Originally Posted by Flat4TW View Post
should i disconnect the battery before taking the iacv off? and after i put it back on connect the battery. turn the ignition to on and then off and repeat for 3 times?
Why? If the ignition is off you should be able to get the connector off wihout damage. What does turning the ignition off and on 3 times do?

Is this some superstitious ritual?
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Old 05-17-2009, 01:50 PM   #244
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I could see disconnecting the battery so the ECU can relearn the idle as it might have "bad habits" of the partially stuck/blocked IAC in memory.

I have no idea what the 3 key turns does though.
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Old 05-17-2009, 01:50 PM   #245
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I could see disconnecting the battery so the ECU can relearn the idle as it might have "bad habits" of the partially stuck/blocked IAC in memory.

I have no idea what the 3 key turns does though.
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Old 05-17-2009, 02:12 PM   #246
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deff giving these a try in the VERY near future
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Old 05-17-2009, 02:55 PM   #247
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rick-l View Post
Why? If the ignition is off you should be able to get the connector off wihout damage. What does turning the ignition off and on 3 times do?

Is this some superstitious ritual?
Maybe it's to prime the system, if you will. Kinda like when you do a fuel pump or filter install. You want to prime the pump and the tank by pressurizing the tank and fuel system basically, and also to check for leaks. I imagine maybe a similar thing is going on here with the Idle Air Control Valve but even if there's no reason to do it whatsoever, I do it anyways. Hell, I even do that after an oil change because I let my **** get real dry by draining all the bad oil out for a long time so when I go to start it again I want to make sure oil has been primed to flow through the system as you do not want a dry start. Worst thing you can do for your engine.
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Old 05-18-2009, 12:12 AM   #248
txl146
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I have a perfectly good gasket used for 10k miles (but feels and looks new) that I am willing to ship out for $2 shipped. Let me know if anyone wants it...
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Old 05-18-2009, 05:00 AM   #249
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Quote:
Originally Posted by txl146 View Post
I have a perfectly good gasket used for 10k miles (but feels and looks new) that I am willing to ship out for $2 shipped. Let me know if anyone wants it...
ill be the NYC area this weekend.........if you live somewhere close ill pick the thing up in person
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Old 05-18-2009, 03:07 PM   #250
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GDAryder View Post
ill be the NYC area this weekend.........if you live somewhere close ill pick the thing up in person
from the first post.
Quote:
The part number for the IACV gasket is 22659AA120. It cost me $6 from Exeter
So to save $4 you are going to drive over and get a gasket that both the service manual and the original poster have warned you to replace with new?
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