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Old 06-07-2009, 01:48 AM   #1
qualityracer
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Default how do you make the strut's shaft not turning when tightening down the strut bolt?

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1517413,
so I did the eibach as i said in the previous thread, I love the ride quality, however, it was a biarch to tighten the strut nut without have the shaft from turning. ( wrx eibach spring, wrx gr2, 2.5rs strut mounts)

is there any tricks in make it not turn when tightening down the strut nut?
I have done all four, from 10AM to 8PM, all 4, without little help from others while I was doing the very last one, I was SO SO SO exhausted.


Now, here is how I tightened the strut bolts, hand holding the shaft so it doesn't turn, and then turn the nut until the shaft starts to slip from my hand grip.

Is that right?

all strut are in, and my rear driver, is making loose noise, I am pretty sure it's either the 3 little nuts, or it is the strut nut not tightened enough. I was just way too exhausted to bother with them. but nice ride quality I like, even with the loose part. if that strut nut is loose, can I tightened it while it is still in the car? I am thinking < jack up car, hand reach the shaft, then turn from the inside.>
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Old 06-07-2009, 02:27 AM   #2
Back Road Runner
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A rubberized glove or something may help with grip. I've generally took an electric impact to it after getting as tight as I could by hand, just a couple quick ticks. You don't really want to run the impact on any adjustable struts as they are hollow. You warp them and they're broken. The weight of the car on the strut also helps some versus having it off and doing it.

You may find that the center bolt will loosen on you from time to time on this strut or that. It'll start to get a little clunky, very noticeable when it does loosen.
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Old 06-07-2009, 04:21 AM   #3
seanvetter123
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impact wrench or get a friend to help
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Old 06-07-2009, 07:27 AM   #4
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Impact gun.
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Old 06-07-2009, 12:24 PM   #5
Back Road Runner
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Just be careful. On the stock strut, it's ok. On aftermarket ones with adjusters, the shaft is hollow, and you can warp it and cause problems. For example, Tokico specifically states not to use an impact gun on their D-Spec struts because of this. You can still get away using one, but you really have to be light with it and sort of do it "just enough."
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Old 06-07-2009, 06:09 PM   #6
03SubyWRX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Back Road Runner View Post
Just be careful. On the stock strut, it's ok. On aftermarket ones with adjusters, the shaft is hollow, and you can warp it and cause problems. For example, Tokico specifically states not to use an impact gun on their D-Spec struts because of this. You can still get away using one, but you really have to be light with it and sort of do it "just enough."
+1

Just use it at the lowest setting, install them in the car, then torque them. I've always used an impact gun on struts and never had a problem but I run at a low power level.
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Old 06-07-2009, 06:43 PM   #7
AllAWD
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There is a correct way:
Subaru part number 927760000
http://subaru.spx.com/detail.asp?partid=927760000 - STRUT MOUNT SOCKET

or

Pass-through socket and allen wrench is the other option. I got mine at Lowes.


When you get all four wheels on the ground you can torque the bolts to the correct amount:
Lower strut bolts - front (19mm) - 129 ft-lbs
Lower strut bolts - rear (19mm) - 145 ft-lbs

Front brake line (12mm) - 23.6 ft-lb
Front ABS line (12mm) - 24.3 ft-lb

Strut top nuts (12mm) - 14.5 ft-lb
* this isn't much; don't overdo it, they can and will snap.*


Strut top center nut (17mm) - 41 ft-lb
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Old 06-07-2009, 10:22 PM   #8
scby rex
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Id like to see you actually torque that abs line bolt to 24.3 ft lbs. its aluminum and WILL snap off if you go that high.^^btw where are you going to get a tq wrench that goes in tenths of lbs?
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Old 06-07-2009, 10:45 PM   #9
seanvetter123
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^^mine will let you get that accurate
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Old 06-08-2009, 12:00 AM   #10
scby rex
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We dont even go that accurate in aviation, so why does your 20 whatever thousand dollar subaru need it? just convert in inches.
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Old 06-08-2009, 01:11 AM   #11
AllAWD
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I'm just posting factory torque specs, it's converted from Nm to ft-lb since most people use ft-lb in the US.

32Nm=23.6 ft-lb
33Nm=24.3 ft-lb
20Nm=14.5 ft-lb

Yes, you could, if you wanted, use wrenches that are that accurate. I personally didn't bother with those bolts.
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Old 06-08-2009, 06:42 AM   #12
Butt Dyno
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I use a rubber strap wrench, held on with vice grips (making sure not to let the vice grips hit the shaft)
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Old 06-08-2009, 11:39 AM   #13
qualityracer
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I went see my mechanic today and he use the air rachet to tight them all up. he tightened them all up, fact is that the rear driver was not tightened enough.

I think this ( go through wrench) tool should be added / mentioned to those DIY thread, don't you think?
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Old 06-08-2009, 03:48 PM   #14
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I used a glove with rubber palm and grabbed the shaft (ala TIC's tip) and used a light duty impact driver and got the nut "finger tight-ish" just to hold the top hat and assembly in place. This worked fine and I torqued after they were on the car.



But I also have Ohlins which has adjusters on the bottom of the strut so the shaft at the top is not hollow.
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Old 06-08-2009, 03:53 PM   #15
Mind
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Use a hoseclamp to tighten a piece of mousepad around the shaft, then grab the "tail" of the hoseclamp with some vice grips to counter the tightening torque.
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