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Old 05-15-2009, 04:29 PM   #51
Cyclops
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The wagon front lower control arms and rear lateral links are what space the knuckles out from the car. The WRX ones are more narrow and made of a different material than the STI counterparts. You can run stock WRX lower control arms and rear lateral links along with your stock sway bars and be just fine, you don't NEED to replace any of the suspension stuff aside from struts and springs. STI struts and springs will bolt right in to your wagon but you will have saggy ass. If you want to upgrade to the STI stuff it will give you a wider track, which is awesome, but it is not needed. If you do decide to upgrade lower control arms up front and lateral links in the back you will need to change a couple other minor things around. In the back you will need rear STI end links. You can keep the same bar I think but you will need the "I" style links instead of the "C" style links on your WRX now. Up front you have to get a whole new bar because the STI bar is wider. You will also need end links.
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Old 05-15-2009, 04:45 PM   #52
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Alright, after doing some research the solution seems to require the following:

Sedan FRONT control arms
Sedan FRONT swaybar
Sedan FRONT endlinks

Sedan REAR lateral enlinks

Those will allow me to put whatever 05+ STi suspension I want on my 05 hubs, as far as I can understand now. Will the front control arms bolt up to my WRX as is or is there some kind of mod I need in order to make that happen? It seems that if I can get those on, the rest will work...
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Old 05-15-2009, 04:58 PM   #53
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What suspension are you looking to run exactly? If you just want to do coil overs or some struts and springs you don't need lateral links, control arms, or sway bars. The struts and springs in no way attach to the lateral links or control arms. If you're looking to run bigger sway bars you can just get WRX sway bars and keep your stock stuff. If you're heart set on going with all STI bits and pieces then yeah your list is right. Lateral links and control arms bolt right up, no modification necessary. I ran them on my wagon and they were cool I guess but for the $500 bucks plus the cost of completely redoing my sway bars and end links I might as well have not. You can still run just as aggressive of sway bars and any coil overs you want. They will make you more prone to rubbing too because they push the edge of your tire out more right where it hits. You'll need to roll or cut your fenders if you drop it much. I had to cut my fenders quite a bit and I ran 27mm front and rear bars to really stiffen it up and even then I rubbed a little.

They do make it look a lot better, though. The edge of your wheel will sit much more flush to your fender now.


Front control arms
Front sway bar
Front end links

Rear lateral links
Rear end links
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Old 05-15-2009, 05:04 PM   #54
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At the moment, I just want a good stable set up that will probably see a little bit of auto x action. On a budget thanks to the pricy drivetrain, so mainly just looking at stock struts and coilovers off an STi. Looking around here, it seemed that the subtle differences in the wagon made it prone to becoming saggy if you just bolted on STi struts.

And as far as the lowering is concerned, do the stock struts of an STi really lower it enough that I will need to roll my fenders? I was not counting on that one...I will be running 16 inch rims for the forseeable future...it doesnt lower THAT much does it?
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Old 06-01-2009, 04:41 PM   #55
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New question. I have gotten mixed info about doign a swap and keeping the r160. I know I need an auto drive shaft in order for it to bolt up with no mods, but does the year matter on the driveshaft? As in, do I need an RS auto from the 90s, or will a 2002+ auto driveshaft out of an impreza work to? Any other models I can pull from, i.e. legacys or forresters?

I have not found infor on exactly which ones I can use, and living at the beach, junkyards are limited on subi stock. They dont see enough rough terrain here to ever actually break down!
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Old 06-06-2009, 03:43 PM   #56
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thanks for this thread it just saved my life.... im gettin ga complete swap.. what do i have to do and buy so i can adjust the dccd? is the wiring harness for the dccd a seperate thing? can i just get the gauge cluster and run the seperate harness? or is it wired into the sti harness.. im putting this into an 02 wrx
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Old 06-06-2009, 06:31 PM   #57
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HAR!

the parts list is easy...

where do i get all the gear? i guess i could buy new from subaru.. but the cost is gotta be killer....
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Old 06-09-2009, 11:29 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sammyswrxsti View Post
thanks for this thread it just saved my life.... im gettin ga complete swap.. what do i have to do and buy so i can adjust the dccd? is the wiring harness for the dccd a seperate thing? can i just get the gauge cluster and run the seperate harness? or is it wired into the sti harness.. im putting this into an 02 wrx
For DCCD you'll want to run with a third party DCCD controller most likely. The STI integrated DCCD is tied in to the ECU so it's worthless for you unless you run an STI ECU.
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Old 06-13-2009, 08:21 AM   #59
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Cyclopes, I did a 06 JDM STI engine / G-box swap in to a 04 JDM STi, I used everything from the 06, including harness, ECU, key, the works, DCCD not operational, it seems like it would work in manual, as you can lock it up (rear), but no position light. Would a Spider DCCD controller put me back operational, with full control of the DCCD operation ? I sent a message to Spider, no reply.
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Old 06-13-2009, 10:17 PM   #60
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I have an 02 WRX that is getting the swap done at Precision Tuning... Some of the stuff I read here doesn't seem right (at least for an 07 6mt to go into an 02). My mechanic told me that you can keep all the suspension things (struts, spring, etc.), the hubs, brakes, and rear dif as well.
As for the DCCD controller, that's definitely not optional, especially if you plan on using a dyno. The car will drive without it, but it isn't recommended in the long run since the transmission is looking for a signal. Without any signal, the torque split can vary in unpredictable ways and make your new tranny go boom.

Last edited by evo2rex; 06-13-2009 at 11:17 PM.
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Old 06-13-2009, 11:39 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evo2rex View Post
I have an 02 WRX that is getting the swap done at Precision Tuning... Some of the stuff I read here doesn't seem right (at least for an 07 6mt to go into an 02). My mechanic told me that you can keep all the suspension things (struts, spring, etc.), the hubs, brakes, and rear dif as well.
As for the DCCD controller, that's definitely not optional, especially if you plan on using a dyno. The car will drive without it, but it isn't recommended in the long run since the transmission is looking for a signal. Without any signal, the torque split can vary in unpredictable ways and make your new tranny go boom.
I said complete, as in a complete swap, not the bare minimum. You can do an 07 6 speed into a WRX and just do the tranny and stubs and an auto driveshaft and thats it. If you do STI axles you have to do STI knuckles and if you do STI knuckles you have to do STI struts and springs. Trust me on that one, I've done this a few times now. If you do the STI rear diff you have to do STI axles and therefor STI knuckles and hubs and struts and springs. If you do STI knuckles you do STI backing plates which means Brembos. There are ways around all of that of, and you can mix and match a bunch of stuff, but this thread is to tell people how to do it the right way from the start.


And a DCCD controller is absolutely optional. With no signal your center diff goes wide open, as in no locking, which is fine. Torque split is a mechanical thing; your DCCD controller doesn't control torque split, it controls the amount of lock of the center diff. It's going to run just like any other open center diff. It won't run as well at a track and it won't run as well in crappy traction, but it won't hurt anything. IIRC the center diff has some mechanical locking in the 07, like 10% or something like that, even at wide open. It'll do some sweet burnouts too! Spiider has a model where you can turn off the DCCD for a reason. Keep on reading buddy.
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Old 06-13-2009, 11:44 PM   #62
Cyclops
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Quote:
Originally Posted by csugden View Post
Cyclopes, I did a 06 JDM STI engine / G-box swap in to a 04 JDM STi, I used everything from the 06, including harness, ECU, key, the works, DCCD not operational, it seems like it would work in manual, as you can lock it up (rear), but no position light. Would a Spider DCCD controller put me back operational, with full control of the DCCD operation ? I sent a message to Spider, no reply.
I'm going to try to hide my jealousy for your JDM STI for a minute and tell you what I know.

Not sure why your DCCD doesn't work, probably missing some sensors or something somewhere. I know in the states there are some weird pitch sensors on some of the later years but I'm not sure exactly which ones. I think someone once told me that if you're missing those sensors your auto DCCD won't work because it won't see signal from certain spots.

Anyways, to answer your question, I would think the Spiider would work. The Spiider system is totally independent of anything in your ECU besides a couple of signals off of the ECU. It connects to the two wires on your tranny and basically just puts signal through your center diff to lock/unlock it. That said, I'm not 100% sure that your voltages are the same on the JDM STI. If I was you I'd try to find as much information out about the signals the spiider uses and see if they're the same. For example, make sure the voltage for the DCCD is the same, make sure the TPS signal is the same, etc. I would imagine that they would be because a lot of people here in the states swap with JDM harnesses and ECUs but again, can't be sure because I've never tried. Good luck to you.
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Old 06-14-2009, 09:08 AM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyclops View Post
And a DCCD controller is absolutely optional. With no signal your center diff goes wide open, as in no locking, which is fine. Torque split is a mechanical thing; your DCCD controller doesn't control torque split, it controls the amount of lock of the center diff. It's going to run just like any other open center diff. It won't run as well at a track and it won't run as well in crappy traction, but it won't hurt anything. IIRC the center diff has some mechanical locking in the 07, like 10% or something like that, even at wide open. It'll do some sweet burnouts too! Spiider has a model where you can turn off the DCCD for a reason. Keep on reading buddy.
So can you put it on the dyno w/o the DCCD controller? Seems weird that my shop would say it's not optional (they've done quite a few swaps).
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Old 06-15-2009, 11:54 AM   #64
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susbcribed
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Old 06-15-2009, 12:03 PM   #65
Cyclops
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Honestly I don't know about the whole dyno thing. Most AWD dynos have a linkage that goes between the rollers to keep your wheels from spinning different speeds, thus saving any problem to your center diff. Without that it seems like you'd want your diff wide open to allow the front to spin independently of the rear. I think having a DCCD controller would cause your center diff to try to lock when the wheels spin different speeds, but the dyno rollers would be forcing them to, which would make for a pretty unhappy diff.
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Old 07-14-2009, 12:55 PM   #66
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Hey this is kind of an odd ball question, but I have not seen a clear answer for it despite a lot of research into doing this swap.

Do I need to find an sti shift boot and plastic retainer (the one that holds the boot o the shifter) or is there a way to keep my wrx stuff? Also, to anyone who might know from exerience, I bought my linkage and reverse cable through the dealer. Will that come with the reverse lock out ring for my shifter, or will I need to find one of those as well?
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Old 07-14-2009, 01:01 PM   #67
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I think the ring comes with the shifter, not the cable, but I could be wrong on that.

Also, for my 02 I got the STI shift boot and surround. It HAS to be from an 04 STI though, later model STIs won't work unless you do a center console swap. You can make your stock stuff work but it won't look or work as well. There is that big lump below the reverse lockout on your shifter has to fit in the boot some how and it doesn't really fit the bugeye boot. The 04 STI boot has a button on it so you can open it up to fit it over the lump and it fits muuuuch better.
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Old 07-14-2009, 04:18 PM   #68
Xenri
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alright I will double check the box that the shift came in maybe I am just missing it. There are a ton of parts laying around so there is a good chance of that . and thanks for the info on the boot. I didnt know it was year specific so I am glad I didnt already splurge and get one. But the WRX one WILL fit, it will just look ugly? I saw that the STi has a plastic thing it connects to, is that the lump you are refering to? If not, do you know what I am talking about? and would getting one of those solve the issue? That question is to anyone who has had some experience with the STi shift boot, I have never touched one.
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Old 07-14-2009, 04:20 PM   #69
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Right below the lockout ring there is sort of a conical piece of plastic with a black ring at the top. On an STI the boot comes up over the cone and stops right under that black lip around the top. It was pretty much impossible for me to get my WRX boot over that cone, but I know some people have done it. The STI boot as a button so you can unbutton it, pull it over the cone, then button it in place.
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Old 07-14-2009, 05:04 PM   #70
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Oh cool I was unaware of the button. I guess I am on the lookout for an 04 boot set up then
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Old 07-14-2009, 05:05 PM   #71
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Yeah but I've seen some people make the stocker work. Maybe they cut a slit in it and put some velcro in it or something, I don't know. All I know is the 04 STI boot has the silver STI ring, looks way cooler, and the boot looks much better and is much more functional.
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Old 07-15-2009, 02:37 AM   #72
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this is mainly a rear diff question....so no matter what i have to either get an AT wrx drive shaft or an STI drive shaft correct??

also..does an STI drive shaft bolt up to a 5sp tranny?

what i have:

07 STI Rear Diff
04 STI Hubs/Knuckles/ Rotors

im keeping the 5x100 setup for now..
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Old 07-15-2009, 11:23 AM   #73
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Yes, you can't run a 6 speed with a stock WRX drive shaft. The 6 speed is too long. The driveshaft from a WRX and auto is a little shorter to accommodate the longer tranny. I don't think an STI drive shaft will be long enough to run on a 5 speed but I've never tried. That rear diff you have should be a 3.54 which is the same as your 03 tranny. The 04 STI stuff should bolt right up and the axles should be okay. The STI driveshaft should bolt up just the same as your WRX one but I'm just afraid it'll be too short.
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Old 08-18-2009, 04:20 PM   #74
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Subscribed. I have an 06 OBS and this swap is on the drawing board some time down the road.
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Old 08-23-2009, 09:15 AM   #75
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I have coils from my rs 5mt is it possible to resuse my knuckles?
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